IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bib!iographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checlied  below. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


Couverture  endommag6e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

r~y  Coloured  maps/ 


D 
D 
D 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


n 


n 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
ha^'e  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppidmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfiimd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-§tre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  ddcoiordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d6tach6es 


r^   Showthrough/ 


Transparence 


□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualit^  indgale  de  I'impression 

I      I   Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film6es  d  nouveau  de  faqon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


□    This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 
Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

1/ 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

1 

The  copy  fil 
to  the  gene 

Metn 
Histo 

The  images 
possible  CO 
of  the  origii 
filming  con 


Original  co| 
beginning  v 
the  last  pa( 
sion,  or  the 
other  origin 
first  page  ^ 
sion,  and  ei 
or  illustrate 


The  last  rec 
shall  contai 
TINUED"), 
whichever ) 

Maps,  plate 
different  rei 
entirely  inc 
beginning  i 
right  and  tc 
required.  T 
method: 


emplaire 
r.  Les  details 
uniques  du 
uvent  modifier 
It  exiger  une 
ale  de  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Metropolitan  Toronto  Library 
History  Department 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
ginirositA  de: 

Metropolitan  Toronto  Library 
History  Department 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin.  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


ed/ 
I6es 

foxed/ 
u  piqu6es 


rial/ 
mentaire 


iured  by  errata 

refilmed  to 

e/ 

ellement 

rata,  une  pelure, 

u  de  fapon  d 

tsible. 


30X 


32X 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  -^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

Les  exemplaires  origlnaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimte  sont  filmAa  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  fiimfo  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
derniire  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tsbieaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6, 11  est  film*  A  partir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  h  drolte, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


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MISSION 


OV   TIIK 


NORTH  AMERICAN  PEOPLE, 


GEOGRAPHICAL,  SOCIAL,  AND  POLITICAL. 


ILLUSTRATED   BY   SIX  (HARTS 


DELINEATING  THE  TIIYSICAL  ARCIIITECTURE  AND  THERMAL  LAWS 
OF  ALL  THE  CONTINENTS. 


BY 


WILLIAM    GILPIN, 


I.ATK    GOVKItXOIl    OP    COLOH.VDO. 


P  H  I  L  A  D  E  li  P  n  I  A  : 

J.  B.  LIPPIXCOTT    &    CO. 
1873. 


J.//,S-^"2' 


Entered,  aceorilinj;  to  Act  of  Coii(;i'eci<,  in  the  year  ISTJ!,  by 

WILLIAM     (ill-l'IX, 
In  the  Office  of  tlie  Liliniiiiin  of  I^Jii^^rc.'s  at  \Vii>hiii;;l()n. 


DeN'VEB,  Juill 


INTRODUCTION. 


This  voluiiu!  is  tlic  nprodiittion  nf  its  i)reclcceHHor,  which  nppcareil 
in  IHIIO.  Tiiis  short  interval,  aitliinij;h  olieciicred  by  war,  is  ilhmiinated 
by  stupendous  achievements  in  the  direction  wliithcr  the  encrj^ies  of  the 
people  were  invited. 

The  vivacity  with  which  hdor,  intcUij^encc,  and  n'oderation,  in  concert 
and  ulliance,  march  and  expand  in  force  and  volume,  is  amazinj;  and 
<;;lorious.  Nothinjr  in  sijrht  jiredicts  any  serious  check  to  this  fufal  flood, 
on  which  is  borne  every  department  and  detail  of  I'ltodUESS. 

The  aim  hcj'e  is  to  {?rasp  facts  as  they  arc ;  to  reject  delusions  which 
have  grown  senile.  No  special  chapter  is  here  assigned  I  :>  the  Wcstmi 
Cvr<h7f<T(t  (the  Sierra  Nevada),  because  its  general  profile,  its  (Jwrmal 
features,  and  its  continuity  are  everywhere  referred  to  and  described. 

Much  that  luis  been  jtroposed  and  asked  from  the  people  in  tlic  former 
volume  is  now  fully  completed  and  has  gone  into  history.  J^verything 
else  is  coming  w^ith  assured  certainty  and  celerity. 

In  the  former  preface  I  have  given  expression  fully  to  my  faith  and 
hopes.  These  I  retain  and  repeat  with  fortified  confidence  and  con- 
viction. 


Denver,  .luiie  1, 187.3. 


CE 


SOME  N 


THE 


CENTRAL  GOLD   REGION. 


THE 


GRAIN,  PASTORAL,  AND  GOLD  REGIONS 


OF 


NOETH    AMERICA. 


SOME  NEW  VIEWS  OF  ITS  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY,  AND  OBSERVATIONS 
ON  THE  PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


BY 


WILLIAM    GILPIN, 

LATE  OP  THE  VNITED   STATES   ARMY. 


B'lUST      FTJ  BlilSHEX)      I  3Sr      I860. 


%^ 


Every 

Their  con 
voluntarily 
half  centu 
and  policy 
Kcstrict 
as  belongs 
energies,  c 
of  the  Pa 
Asia. 

This  nic 
its  advanc 
l)rogress  j) 
effect  to  t 
lilieral  un 
expansion 
energies  n 

I  have 
suggested 
midst  of  t 
clear  open 
I  distinj 
interval  w 
This  defin( 
The  ma 
gress  assei 


PREFACE. 


EvERYBoiiY  is  acquainted  with  the  history  of  the  American  people. 
Their  comuionweakh,  commenced  at  first  by  a  few  republican  families 
voluntarily  exiled  from  the  Old  World,  is  now,  at  the  end  of  two  and  a 
half  centuries,  a  republican  empire  of  established  continental  dimensions 
and  policy. 

Restricted  heretofore  in  its  development  to  so  much  of  our  continent 
as  belongs  to  the  Atlantic,  a  point  of  progress  is  reached,  whence  our 
energies,  overflowing  towards  the  west,  expand  to  embrace  the  regions 
of  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  establish  direct  and  familiar  relations  with 
Asia. 

This  movement,  long  in  preparation,  now  engages  so  large  a  force  that 
its  advance  daily  acquires  volume  and  celerity.  Federal  lejidation,  to 
progress  i^ari  passu  with  the  people,  is  demanded  upon  a  basis  to  give 
effect  to  the  great  central  movement  resulting  from  their  energies.  A 
liberal  understanding  of  the  mission  of  our  people,  counsels  a  genial 
expansion  of  the  federal  system  to  the  grandest  dimensions  which  their 
energies  may  reach. 

I  have  condensed  into  a  small  volume,  the  memoranda  and  reflections 
suggested  by  a  residence  of  twenty  years  in  the  wilderness :  and  in  the 
midst  of  the  pioneer  people  who  occupy  the  foreground  of  progress,  and 
clear  open  the  track  of  empire. 

I  distinguish,  as  the  most  essential  present  ground  of  development,  tho 
interval  which  separates  the  ^Mississippi  Basin  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
This  defines  itself  as  the  "Mountain  Si/steni"  of  our  geography. 

The  magnitude  of  the  obstacles  which  it  ojiposes  to  the  forces  of  pro- 
gress assembled  on  its  two  fronts,  sanctions  an  appeal  to  every  form  of 

7 


8 


PliEFACE. 


lu'lp  clisfeniiblc  to  the  patriotic  licart.  This  uoedcd  help  is,  in  short,  the 
construction  of  tlie  Continental  Jiailwud. 

Two  auspicious  elements  in  human  civilization,  by  their  rapid  j!;rowth 
in  power  and  importance,  fix  our  attention, — the  indefinite  multiplication 
of  gold  coin,  and  international  jtuhlic  works. 

These  tivu  elements,  so  operating  as  to  mutually  stimulate  and  sustain 
each  other,  iinmiise  to  enthrone  im/'K^frial  vr<j<iu!:.<it!on  as  the  ruling 
princijile  of  nations. 

America  leads  the  host  of  nations  as  they  ascend  to  this  new  order  of 
civilization. 

Her  intermediate  geographical  position  between  Asia  and  Europe  and 
their  populations,  invests  lier  with  the  powers  and  duties  of  arbiter 
between  them.  Our  continent  is  at  once  a  barrier  which  separates  the 
other  two,  yet  fuses  and  harmonizes  their  intercourse  in  all  the  relations 
from  which  yi^rce  is  absent. 

Human  society  is,  then,  upon  the  brink  of  a  new  order  of  arrangement, 
inspired  by  the  uuiversal  instincts  of  peace,  and  is  about  to  assume  the 
grandest  dimensions. 

Fascinated  by  this  vision,  which  I  have  seen  appear  and  assume  the 
solid  form  of  a  reality  in  le.xs  than  half  a  generation,  I  discern  in  it 
a  new  power,  the  People  occupied  in  f/ie  u-i/dmiess,  engaged  at  once  in 
extracting  from  its  recesses  the  omnipotent  element  of  ffold  coin,  and 
disbursing  it  immediately  for  the  indnsfricd  con(juest  of  the  world. 


William  Gilpix. 


Indepknde.nce,  April  7,  ISGO. 


p  is,  ill  short,  the 


TABLE   OF  CONTENTS. 


CIIArTER    I. 


this  new  order  of 


THE    MOUNTAIN    FORMATION    OK  NORTH   AMF.RICA — TIIK  (DR  DIl.I.KR  AS^TIIK     I'l.A- 

TF.AU — THE    NORTH    AMERICAN     ANDES. 

l\r,y. 
Urc'iultli— Lt-iigtli— ninck  Hills— ('(HiUllcni  of  ilu'  Sifira  Mailri — (iiil,l-|iioiliuiiit; 
(Jninitp — Pares — I'hilcau  (ilTaMo  I,aiiils— Xot  (.Miin|M('li('ii(U'il  liy  tlio  Aiiiciicaii 
I'l'oiile — IJasiii  of  City  iif  Mi'xit'o — Molson  ili  Ma|piiiii — Xn  iJniinago — Siona 
Mimbrt's — liiisin  ol' llic  \>v\  Nditc — lia.^in  uftlio  Culdiacld— Canon  of  the  Colo- 
rado— liasiii  of  the  Salt  Lake — l>asin  of  tlio  Coliiiiiliia — llasiii  of  !•' razor's  Hivi'r 
—  DeliciiHis  Cliinatc  of  the  I'laloau — ^Its  Ki'riility — Coiilillcra  of  tlu'  Aiiili's — 
Pacific  .Maritiiiio  Kroiit 1.') 


CIIArTKK   II. 


THE    CORDILLERA    OF    THE    SIERRA    MADRE — THE    EASTERN    CORDILLERA. 


LLiAM  Gilpin. 


M'Uiitain  S_\  ritom  of  tin-  (lloln — Tlu'  Andes — Tlu'ir  Icnjrth.  aKitmle.  unci  aiirilVrous 
vealtli — Chain  of  the  Mollicr  .Monntain — Its  Uivcrs — Caiions — Mesas — liules — 
jlanos — liiiyoiis  or  Pares — Klcvation — lireadth — Wiml  lUver  Moiintiiin — South 
)ass — Tlic  Alps  and  their  ])ass — Lava  IMain  of  Snake  Kiver — liowl  of  the  Yel- 
Iwstone — Plain  of  tlie  South  Pass — Sweetwater  lliver — Tahle  iMouutain — Pla- 
ors  of  jjolcl  and  |ireeious  stones^Xortlu'ru  Pare  or  Bull-iien — Favorite  winter 
liuue  of  tra)i|iers — Streams,  meadows,  flowers,  i;roves,  ete. — .Middle  Pare — 
M)uutain  simrs.  rocky  streams,  cloudy  atinos|ihere,  snow-clail  summits — liOUfj's 
Puk — Southern  Pare — Pike's  Peak — Mountain  harrier — Xo  transit — liayou 
Pm  Luis — Suhlinie  scenery,  luxuriant  fertility,  ajjricultural  seasons — Valley 
of  Cashmere — Secondary  mesas,  or  '•  LIiiuiih" — Levid  surface,  jioor  soil,  rainless 
atiiivsidiere — -Perjdexity  of  [uililic  mind — Llano  Kslacado  and  Llano  of  the  lial- 
sifcta — A  continual  terrace — Kansas  Basin 21 


CHAPTER  III. 


THE    PLATEAU    OF    NORTH    AMERICA. 


rts  area  nd  chnrnetorislies — The  column  of  central  iiro<,'ress — Plateaux  of  tlie  OM 
AVorld-PIateau  of  American  Talile  Lands  not  underst(vod — Its  basins — Climaf." 
uniforlly  vernal— Fertility  of  soil— (Jrasses  nnike  natural  hay — Immense 
herds  f  cattle — Auriferous  f,'ranite  and  }rold  placers — Irrijration — I'repared 
for  an  mmediate  dense  population — Its  physical  characteristics — (U'olojrical 
formatiii—  Mineralogical  resources— Zone  id' civilization — Lino  (d'  progress 


10  TABLE   OF  COX  TEXTS. 


CIIArTKR    IV. 

THE    SilEKRA    SAX    JUA.V. 

VKQT. 

Till'  gdlil  mill  silver  ]ini(hicliiiii  of  tlio  wmlil — AiirifciMiis  or  i;i)lil-l)caring  forinn- 
tinii — ChIi'iiiciius  I'liiiiiiitioii — Iniii,  ciiiiiicr,  Icml — KimmI  I'liliiiiiiiitinns  of  thi; 
Sii'iia  Mailn — Pike's  I'lak — Tlu-  Sirna  Miinlni's — Miinn;;  in  thi"  AinlfS — 
Slii|icMilcins  ffl'futs  iif  till'  inti'iiial  vult-aiiir  iiuwcr.-'  of  llii'  j^lolii' — Aljiiiiilanci'  of 
tliu  ]irci.'ii)iis  iiii'lals — (.'afmii  of  the  ColinaiUi — (iorgcous  variety  of  seenery — 
I'liiloiiuiiliy  of  inetiilliferiius  ileiiosits — "tireut  Xorth  Amprieiin  iJcHert"  does 
not  exist — Itiinibolilt's  views — The  (iieat  IMateau  tlie  peat  of  cmjiire  of  the 
ancient  Jlexieans — Heniaikalile  foeal  eiilniinatiun  of  the  Siena  Minilires  in  tho 
Biena  San  Ji  mi — The  colunin  of  jiioneers  npon  its  tliiesliuiil 4-' 


CIIArTKR    V. 

THE    SOITII    PASS    OF    AMKHIfA. 

Rontc  from  Paris  to  Pekin — Distance  ami  time  reiliueil — Tlic  Plateau  and  two  Por- 
ililleras  the  only  im|i"iliments — liasin  of  the  .Mciliserranean  and  liasin  of  the 
JIississi]i|ii — The  former  .salt  water — The  hitter  rich,  calcareou)',  iinil  iiralilo 
8iiil — The  former  sii]i|iorteil  a  |io|inhitionof  one  liniiilreil  anil  thirty-one  millions — 
The  latter  cajiahlc-  of  twelve  hnnilreil  millions — l!olh  the  .«eats  of  cmiiire  in  their 
r(s|ieetivc  continents — liotli  traverseil  hy  the  zmliac  of  civilization — The  South 
Pass — Its  slia]ie,  size,  ami  surface — Distance  from  Astoria  ami  St.  Louis — The 
only  jiass  throu;;li  the  Mountain  Formation  hence  to  Tehuantcjiec — The  j^rcnt 
trail  of  the  butValo  |iasse.s  throu;;li  it — Uiiiiiterrn)itc(l  ]iassa}fe  hy  the  bed  of  great 
rivers  both  to  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific — I'niforniity  of  climate  from  sea  to  sea 
— The  great  Continental  line  of  empire  here — The  Pillars  of  Washington 54 

CHAPTER    YI. 

THE    GHEAT    ItASlX    ol'    THE    JllSSISSiri'I. 

It3  great  river — It?  surface  n  r-ch  and  deep  sediment — Its  climate — Line  of  tinibr 
—  Line  of  grasses — Capacity  for  ]ioiiulatioi.  iJcographical  centre  of  the  ]!aui 
and  North  American  Continent  at  same  point — Hetwcen  and  e(|nidistinf 
from  the  l.'.V.l,Om).non  iio|)uhitioii  of  Kurope  and  the  O.'id.OdO.fKIO  population  of 
Asia  and  Polynesia — Surfaeo  of  Europe  descends  outwards  trom  its  cent)! — 
Also  of  .\sia — Surface  of  Xorth  America  like  a  bowl,  gathering  and  cenral- 
izing  whatever  enters  within  its  rim — The  Basin  of  the  Mississijiju  the  aiuihi- 
theatre  of  the  world C4 

CHAPTER    VII. 

I'ASTORAT,    A.MEKIfA. 

Great  Plains  of  America  md  deserts — The  I'astoral  Ciardcn  of  the  woid — Tts 
surface  a   gentle   slope  to    the  east — Abounds   in   rivers — Covered  witi  thick 


TABLE   OF  COX  TENTS. 


11 


PAOC. 

Iicaring  forinn- 
latidiis  of  tliL' 
1  the  Andes — 
-Abmidanee  of 
y  of  si'i'ner.v — 
n  llcsert"  'Iocs 
ciniiiri'  of  tlie 
Miiii))re»  in  the 


nutritious  grasses  and  swarming  with  animal  life — Soil  not  sandy,  hut  a  flno 
calcareous  mould — Convenient  to  navigation — (.'limato  dry,  and  temperature 
even — Herbage  perennial,  edible,  and  nutritious  throughout  the  year,  and  cured 
into  natural  hay  upon  the  ground — Sujipnila  one  huiulicd  iiiilUuna  of  iiild  catlle 
— Xo  tires  as  in  j)rairies— Turkeys,  chickens,  water-fowl,  fish,  and  game  in  great 
variety,  abundant — Ample  proportion  of  arable  land  for  farms,  fuel,  building 
materials,  etc.— t'linnite  favorable  to  health  an<l  longevity — Animal  food  three- 
Jifths  of  that  of  tlie  human  family — How  jiroduced  spontaneously — Very  little 
labor  necessary  for  support — Pastoral  agriculture  on  a  large  scale  eomjiara- 
tively  a  new  order  of  industry  to  our  people — Destined  to  be  of  immense  im- 
portance       71 


CHAPTP]Il    VIII. 


■an  and  two  f'or- 

iiil  liasin  of  the 

us,  and    arable 

y-oni'  iiiilliniis — 

empire  in  their 

ion — The  So\ith 

St.  Louis — The 

epec — The  great 

•  the  bed  of  great 

■  from  sea  to  sea 

asliington OJ 


' — Line  of  timl.?r 
litre  of  the  Bain 
and  e(niidistiiit 
11(1  population  of 
rom  it?  cente — 
ing  and  eenval- 
fiijilii  the  aiu)hi- 


64 


if  the  woid— Tts 
vered  wifc  thick 


THE    SYSTEM    OF   THE    TARCS. 

The  Definition  of  Pare — Their  Beauty  and  Grandeur — The  Pares  of  Colorado — 
San  Luis  Pare — Ease  of  Entrance  and  De]iarture — Mountains — Rivers — Extent 
— Climate — Valley  of  the  City  of  Mexico — Pasturage  of  San  Luis  Pare — Alpine 
Vegetation — The  Precious  Jletals — Normal  Structure  of  the  Cordillera — Of  the 
Sierra  Mimbres — Craters  of  Extinct  Volcanoes — Peilrigals — Cerritos — Walls  of 
Lava — Productions  of  the  Pares — ^Medicinal  Waters — Hot  Springs — Irrigation 
— Accessibility — Health — Mexican  Population 77 


CHAPTER    IX. 

THERMAL    AMERICA. 

Magnitude  of  the  New  Powers  and  Fresh  Forces — Thermal  Science — Belt  of  Pro- 
duction— Aqueous  Atmosphere — Aerial  Atmosphere — Ethereal  Atmosphere — 
Maritime  Climate — Continental  C'imate — Kegion  of  the  Piedmont — InBuenoo 
of  Vapors — Unfavorable  Influence  of  Thermal  Laws  in  Europe — The  Gold 
Fever — The  Land  Question — Government  Credits — The  Financial  Problem — 
Jlistaken  Legislation — Pastoral  Agriculture — Industrial  Organization — The  Cos- 
mopolitan llailway 91 


CHAPTER    X. 

THE    NORTH    AMERICAN    MISSION. 

The  Pioneer  Army — The  Continental  Mission — The  Southern  Andes — The  North- 
ern Andes — Eastern  and  Western  Cordilleras — Profile  of  the  Andes — Sim- 
plicity of  Structure — Longitudinal  Position — The  Calcareous  Plain — Plateau — 
System  of  the  Pares — Enumeration — San  Luis  Pare — Alps  of  Europe — Convex 
Surface  of  Eurojie— Concave  Surface  of  North  America — Climate  of  Colorado — 
Isothermal  Belt — Climate  and  Civilization 


12 


TAULt;   OF  CUSl'ENTS. 


C II  APT  Ell    XL 

TUE    NORTU    AMEKKAN    MISSION — COXTIXLED. 

rAQI. 

The  Oriuntiil  Slujif  ul' Asia — China — lis  Iiujicil't'ct  Iisollii'iuml  Zimo — The  Isotlicr- 

uiiil  Zone  of  Ndi'lli  AiiK'ricii — Liiii^^iliidiiiiil   Muuntiiiiis — l'()|jiihiliiiiin  of  Asia 

aud  Eurojif — Ainciic-ii  liilunin'iliali — Wii.v-Tiavfl  of  Ihe  Iliiiiiiiii   llaoi — (joo- 

grajihical  Progress — Soc.ul  Progress — (JoM  l)iseoveries — City  of  Iteiiver — .March 

of  the   Pioneers — Overland  (Jourjuests — System    of    Naliiral    Porees — Pastoral 

Agriculture 1U7 


C II  APT  Ell    XII. 

THE    NORTH    AMERICAN    MISSION — CONTINUED. 

Geological  poriiiatiou  of  Ihe  Anierieiin  Amies — Alinospheres — Maritime  Climate — 
Contineiilal  Climate — Uiehness  of  Almosjiheric  Color — Vernal  Teiu[)eraturo — 
JJcuver  Cosiiiojiolilau — ■Trans|iortiitioii  liy  Kaihvays — Tidal  ^March  of  Pojiula- 
tiou — lionilou  and  the  Oriental  Commerce — Prosiiective  Oriental  Commerce  of 
>'  rtli  America — Traufactcd  and  I'niransactcd  Mission  of  the  North  American 
People — Conclusion 117 


APPENDIX. 


MEXICAN    WAR. 

Remarks  of  Slajor  AVilliam  Giljjin,  at  the  Barbecue  given  the  Cole  Infantrj',  at 
Jefferson  City,  Thursday,  August  10,1847 125 

II. 

SFEECII    OF   COLONEL    WILLIAM    CIILI'IX   ON    THE    SUBJECT   OF   THE    PACIFIC 

RAILWAY. 


First  S]ioken  at  the  Canij)  ol'  Fin:  Thnnmind  California  Kmigrants  at  WnhcruHa 
(now  the  City  of  Kawrenee  .  Kansas,  l{e]ieiited  at  Indejiendence,  Missouri,  at  a 
Mass  Meeting  of  Ihe  Citizens  of  Jackson  County,  held  November  6,  18411 136 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


13 


III. 

PROCEEDIN(iS   OF    A    MASS    MEETING    OF   THE   CITIZENS   OF    JACKSON    COUNTT, 

PAOE. 

At  Indcpeiidi'iu^o,  iin  llic  .'ith  of  November,  IS  11),  to  ri'ijioiid  to  the  Action  of 
the  Great  N'litioniil  Hiiilroiid  Convention,  held  in  St.  Louis  on  tho  V.A\\  day 
of  October,  Is  19 165 


IV. 

pike's    I'EAK    and    THE    SIERRA   SAN    JUAN', 

Extracts  fro;i  un  Address  l)y  Colonel  William  (iilpin,  delivered  at  Kansas  City, 
November  15,  1858;  on  the  Gold  I'rodnetion  of  America  and  the  Sierra  San 
Juan 168 

V. 

OEOGRAMIICAL    MEMORANDA    ON    THE    PACIFIC    RAILROAD. 
Reproduced  from  the  Pamphlet  of  1S50 178 

VI. 

THE    nEMP-GROWING    REGION. 
Reproduced  from  tho  Pamphlet  of  1856 202 

VII. 

AN   ORATION. 

Spoken  by  Honorable  William  Gilpin,  to  tho  Quests  of  tho  Fenian  Brotherhood, 
at  Denver,  Colorado,  July  4,  1868 209 


olc  Infantry,  at 


OF   THE    PACIFIC 


LIST     OF    MAPS. 


MAT   OF    NORTH    AMERICA. 


Hilinpiitinj,'  Iho  "  Momitniii  Sy.^tciii"  and  its  d'-tnih,  Tlio  "Great  Calcareous  Plain' 
as  a  unit,  auJ  tLu  euutiiiuous  eiiciiulirij;  "  Maritime  yelvage." 


II. 


MAP   OF    XORTU    AMERICA. 

In  which  are  delineated  the  "Mountain  System"  as  a  unit,  The  "Great  Calcareous 
Plain"  and  its  dttaiix,  and  the  continuous  encircling  "  Maritime  Selvage." 


III. 


THERMAL  MAP  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 

Delineating  the  Isothermal  Zodiac,  the  Isothermal  Axis  of  Intensity,  and  its  ex- 
pansions uji  and  down  the  "  Plateau." 

IV. 

MAP    ILLUSTRATING    THE    SYSTEM    OF   THE    PARCS 

And  the  domestic  relations  of  the  "Great  Plains,"  the  "  North  American  Andes," 
and  the  Pacific  "  Maritime  Front." 


Y. 


MAP   OF    THE    WORLD. 


Pclineatint;  the  Contrasted  LonijiUnIiiKil  and  Lntiluiliiial  Forms  of  the  Continents, 
thi  Isothermal  Zodiac  and  Axis  of  Intensity,  round  the  World,  and  the  Line  of  the 
Cosmopolitan  Railway  and  its  Longitudinal  Feeders. 


YI. 


MAP   OF    THE    SYSTEM    OF    THE    PARCS   OF   COLORADO. 


14 


P  s. 


eat  Calcareous  Plain" 


bo  "Groat  Calcareous 
Sclvago." 


ntensity,  and  its  cs- 


ARCS 

rth  American  Andes," 


ms  of  the  Continent?, 
,  and  the  Line  of  the 


)RADO. 


*  r^^..J~l~^ — '.« 


K.I  I  U 


\M>        II".      III!      I ,.">      l;ii    IJ."     I.'(»     ll.l    no    III.*.  IttO    l»,-|  !Mt     ll.l    (lO      7.'>    70      ll.'.      (.o        .V.        .Hi        l.-|  hi  .1.. 


C  L  L  r  S  V  C    R  A^f.^"^  ^  -  u  u  -  0  r        .  .  N  u 


.III 


^.^' ,^.,J '• 


(/"•I  ii.i»iU 


/  N  0  H  r  M   0  f  V  o  N  1  >.•!»' 

1  J  »  ..    I  r  ' 


Pis 


XJ^'--^ 


•*VJ  »rV- '■^Vir*.^— .*■ 


ft 


■"^■*WWBKIJfJ!«5SiS£i« 


■aill—illiiii  ii'iik^. 


of  our 
sl'oteh  w 
This  IS 

I  appi 
degree 


occupy, 
and    syiii 
3Iorcovei 
tlieni  to 
graphic 
recur  wli 
of  count! 
condeiisii 
guarded 
TIio  ni 
of  its  an 
I'acific 


THE    MISSION 


'Si 


OP     T  II  K 


NORTH  AMERICAN  PEOPLE. 


CHAPTER    I. 

THE  iMOUNTAIN  FORMATION  OF  NORTH   A.MKUICA — TlIK  CORDILLERAS — 
THE   PLATEAU — THE    NORTH    AMERICAN    AXUES. 

I  HAVE  elsewhere  given  a  sketch  of  one  of  the  cardinal  subdivisions 
of  our  continent  and  country,  the  Great  Plains.  I  now  proceed  to 
s'.ri'tch  what  is  beyond  them,  and  fills  the  sjiace  out  to  the  Pacific  f^ea. 
This  is  the  immense  Mountain  Formation  of  North  A.mkrica. 

I  approach  the  attempt  to  classify  and  set  down  this  region  with  a 
degree  of  trepidation  which  I  find  it  difficult  to  master.  During  the 
years  of  war  and  exploration  which  I  have  passed  among  them,  every 
hour  has  kept  alive  the  awe  inspire'  by  the  immensity  of  the  space  tlu  y 
occup3',  the  grandeur  of  their  bidk  and  altitude,  and  the  sublime  order 
and  symmetry  which  pervade  them  as  a  .system,  and  in  the  detail.'^. 
3Ioreover,  no  one,  not  even  IIuMnoLDT,  has  ever  attempted  to  reduce 
them  to  a  classic  system,  or  assented  to  what  I  have  done  in  the  hydro- 
graphic  map  of  1845.  These  indelibly-graved  impre.ss'ons  perpetually 
recur  whenever  my  memory  reverts  to  that  time,  and  warn  me  to  s|  cak 
of  countries  so  novel  to  a  public  little  curious  and  uninformed,  only  after 
condensing  their  portrait  with  the  maturest  meditation  and  with  nicely- 
guarded  caution. 

The  mountain  formation  of  Xorth  America  is  that  distinct  subdivision 
of  its  area  which  occupies  the  whole  space  from  the  Great  Plains  to  the 
Pacific  Sea,  and  covers  two-sevenths  of  the  continent.     In  its  superficial 


16 


MOVKTAIN  FORMATION   OF  XORTII  AMLltlCA,  FTC. 


contents,  bulk,  nunibor  und  variety  of  the  niimntaiu  niaf<s<es,  it  e(iuals  she 
aggregated  mountains  of  all  the  other  eontinents.  It  has  peculiar  char- 
acteristics, which  render  it  more  interesting  than  them  all.  Travelling 
transversely  across  from  east  to  west  along  tht!  thirty-ninth  degree,  the 
breadth  is  l(i(l(l  miles  ;  the  length,  continuous  from  Tehuanteiiec  to  the 
Arctic  Sea,  is  \7)M)  miles  ;  the  direction  is  regular  from  south-south-east 
til  n(irth-north-west.  From  east  to  west  the  traveller  enters  and  crosses 
live  jthysical  divisions,  as  distinct  in  order  and  succession  as  are  the  pris- 
matic streaks  of  the  rainbdw  to  the  eye.  These  are  :  1st.  The  Black 
Hills,  or  Eastern  I'iedmunt ;  2d.  The  Cordillera  of  the  Sierra  Madre 
(Rocky  Mountain ) ;  Ikl.  The  I'lateau  of  the  Table  Lands,  with  its  moun- 
tain chains;  ^th.  The  Cordillera  of  the  Sudwy  Andes  (the  Sierra 
Nevada)  ;  oth.  The  Maritime  Piedmont  of  the  Pacitic  Shore.  These 
divisions  are  parallel  to  one  another  like  the  .streaks  of  the  rainbow,  and, 
like  them,  run  throughout  from  end  to  end  of  the  iitoinifdiii/oniuitioii,  in 
which  they  are  blended  together  in  one  endjodied  mass. 

Beyond  the  longitudinal  centre  of  the  (Jreat  Plains,  the  undulations  of  the 
surface  begin  to  swell  \i\),  imtil  tiiey  become  elevated  into  secondary  moun- 
tains, with  tinilier,  and  crowned  with  rocky  escarpments.  These  are  the 
Black  Hills.  They  :ire  the  outliers  of  the  Sierra  3Iadre,  are  in  the 
Basin  of  the  Mississippi,  and,  masking  the  mountain  crest,  break  and 
graduate  its  descent.  They  are  300  miles  in  breadth,  are  perforated  by  all 
the  great  rivers,  and  are  washed  away  and  tortured  into  fragments  by 
their  channels.  They  have  rocks  of  ])orphyritie  granite  and  sandstone, 
but  are  for  the  most  jjart  formed  of  the  sulphat  eof  lime,  as  gypsum  or 
plaster  of  Paris. 

Snme of  them  are  paved  with  petrifactions,  and  ollicrs,  being  composed 
of  light  mould,  form  the  suspended  matter  of  the  rivers,  wliich  goes 
down  to  make  the  alluvial  bottoms  and  delta  of  the  Mississippi  Basin. 
They  have  but  little  snow  or  rain,  a  scattered  growth  of  dwarfed  timber, 
and  a  pictures(iue  and  fantastic  scenery.  They  are  an  importnat  part 
of  the  j)astoral  region,  are  clothed  in  perennial  grasses,  and  abound  in 
aboriginal  cattle.  Perjjetual  sunshine,  fertility,  perfect  liealth,  pure  and 
abundant  water,  ever-varying  scenery,  and  infinite  animal  life,  will,  in  time, 
attract  and  fix  here  the  densest  po[)ulation. 

Over  the  Black  Hills  rises  the  CouDiLLKKA  or  tiik  Sikkra  Madre. 
This  supreme  Cordillera  may  be  defined  as  the  backbone  of  the  world  ; 
it  is  the  "  divortlii  (Kjiionnti'  of  the  American  continent,  From  the 
snows  of  its  immense  crest  and  flank,s  descend  the  rivers  that  irrigate 
either  face  of  the  continent  out  to  all  the  oceans.  From  it  also  branch 
off  all  the  other  mountain  chains.     Where  the  irrigation  from  the  snows 


:ilJCA,  ETC. 


MOUNTAIN  FORMATIOX  OF  NORTH  AMERICA,  ETC. 


17 


is  sufficient,  immense  forests  exist ;  elscwliere  the  mountains  arc  naked. 
The  core  or  basis  of  the  Sierra  Madre  is  red  porjdiyritic  granite,  from  the 
innnense  naked  masses  of  which  comes  tlie  popular  sol)ri(iuet  of  '•  llocky 
Mountains."  This  is  the  gold-producing  quartz.  The  Sierra  Madre  has 
precipitous  mural  flanks,  which  protrude  outward  as  promontories,  or 
recede  to  encase  the  courses  of  rivers  and  valleys.  It  has  peaks,  conical 
in  shape  and  culminating  by  a  sharp  apex. 

To  those  who  view  it  in  the  horizon  from  below,  this  is  its  general 
appearance ;  but  to  those  who  ascend  its  ragged  front  and  surmount  its 
highest  crest,  this  is  found  to  be  a  Mesa  or  indefinite  table  land  as  level  as 
a  water  surface.  This  Sierra  Madre  has  its  own  cliaracteristics,  which  are 
all  of  the  grandest  order.  I  am  unable  to  illustrate  it  by  comparison, 
because  it  stands  supreme  and  alone,  the  standard  to  which  all  other  moun- 
tain masses  nnist  be  submitted.  It  is  of  the  original  mass  of  the  globe, 
and  has  neither  lava,  nor  craters,  nor  active  volcanoes,  nor  traces  of  the 
igneous  foi'ce  within.  It  is  par  excellence  primeval.  Scooped  out  of  its 
main  mass  are  valleys  of  great  size  and  beauty,  which  have  received  from 
the  trappers  the  name  of  Pcircs.  These  occur  at  regular  intervals,  alter- 
nately upon  either  flank,  and  mark  the  sources  of  the  great  rivers. 

Those  which  I  have  seen  are  the  Plain  of  the  South  Pa.ss,  surrounding 
the  sources  of  the  llio  Verde  : — the  North  Pare,  upon  the  Northern  Platte 
or  Nebraska  Kiver: — the  Middle  Pare,  upon  the  liio  Grande  of  the 
West : — the  South  Pare,  upon  the  Southern  Platte : — the  Pare  of  San 
Luis,  upon  the  Rio  del  Norte.  These  remarkable  valleys  are  all  secluded 
within  the  main  dorsal  mass  of  the  Cordillera,  and  are  of  great  size,  fer- 
tility, and  beauty.  They  resemble  those  reservoire  of  the  Alpine  torrents 
of  Switzerland  (Geneva  and  Constance),  out  of  which  issue  the  rivers 
Rhone  and  Rhine :  and  the  valley  of  Kashmere,  through  which  the  Indus 
flows  ;  though  they  contain  no  lakes. 

They  are  the  paradise  of  the  aboriginal  hc-ls,  with  which  they  swarm 
at  all  seasons,  and  are  the  favorite  retreats  of  the  Indians.  To  define  the 
exact  width  of  the  primary  Cordillera,  and  mark  the  line  where  it  fades 
into  the  Black  Hills  upon  the  jast,  and  into  the  Plateau  of  the  Table 
Lands  upon  the  west,  is  not  ea.sy ;  but  it  varies  from  100  to  250  miles, 
according  as  it  expands  into  salient  promontories,  or  recedes  to  give 
passage  to  the  rivers. 

We  next  descend  on  to  the  third  division,  which  is  the  Plateau  op 
THE  Table  Lands.  This  expands  onward  to  the  Cordillera  of  the  Snowy 
Andes.  I  speak  again  with  great  difllidencc,  but  of  all  the  departments 
into  which  science  has  arranged  the  physical  geography  of  the  globe,  this 
appears  to  me  the  most  interesting,  the  most  crowded  with  various  and 


18 


MOUXTALS  FOIIMATIOS   OF  NORTH  AMERICA,  ETC. 


attractive  foatuivw,  and  the  most  certainly  destined  eventually  to  contain 
the  most  enlightened  and  powerful  empire  of  the  world. 

At  present  it  is  no  more  known  or  eouiprchended,  as  it  is,  by  the  Ameri- 
can peo[)le  than  was  America  itself  to  the  poet  Homer,  and  is  to  them  as 
much  a  myth  as  the  continent  of  Atalanta.  Nevertheless,  it  is  of  such 
great  urea  as  to  contain  within  itself  three  rivers  which  rank  with  the 
Ganges  and  Danube  in  size,  and  five  great  ranges  of  primary  mountains. 
This  will  be  seen  exactly  defined  upon  the  hydrograpliic  map  of  IS-l.'),  as 
the  immense  longitudinal  region  encased  within  the  Cordilleras  and 
extending  from  Tehuautepec  to  the  Northern  Sea.  It  would  exhaust  a 
large  volume  to  recite  in  detail  the  interesting  features  of  this  region,  all 
worthy  to  be  known. 

The  Plateau  ok  the  Table  L.inds  is  a  succes.sion  of  intramontune 
basins,  seven  in  number,  and  ranging  successively  from  south  to  north. 
The  .solid  mass  of  the  Andes  debouches  out  of  the  Isthmus  of  Teluian- 
tepce,  and  forks  immediately  into  the  two  Cordilleras.  Advancing  along 
the  Western  Cordillera  into  the  state  of  Jalisco,  a  mountain  chain  issues 
from  its  inner  flank,  and,  traversing  the  Table  Lands,  plunges  into  the 
Sierra  Madre,  in  the  state  of  San  Luis  I'otosi.  This  .'uts  off"  to  the 
south  the  "  Basin  of  the  Cifi/  of  Jfc.vici,"  which  is  the  Jirst,  the  smallest, 
and  the  mo.st  .southern  of  the  mountain  basins. 

Further  north,  a  .second  mountain  chain  crosses  from  Durango  to 
Coahuila,  and  cuts  oif  the  "  Basin  of  the  Jiolson  di  Mapimi.''  This  is 
the  second  mountain  basin.  The  Cordilleras,  which  flank  the.sc  two  and 
fence  them  from  the  seas,  have  so  great  an  altitude  that  the  ocean  vapors 
never  surmount  their  crests,  nor  do  any  clouds  pass  outward  over  them. 
These  basins,  therefore,  have  no  outward  drainage,  nor  any  rivers  run- 
ning to  the  sea.  Stagnant  lakes  alternately  receive  the  drainage  from 
their  surrounding  mountains,  and  yield  it  to  them  again  by  evaporation. 
This  last  chain  is  known  as  the  "Mountain  of  the  Kio  Florida;"  the 
former  as  the  "  Mountain  of  Qucretaro." 

Pursuing  still  the  Western  Cordillera  through  the  state  of  Sinaloa,  a 
third  mountain  chain,  dividing  ofl^,  traverses  the  Table  Lands  due  north, 
and  plunges  into  the  Sierra  3Iadrc,  between  the  Pare  of  San  Luis  and  the 
Middle  Pare.  This  is  an  immense  and  remarkable  mountain,  is  1300 
miles  in  length,  and  divides  the  waters  of  the  Del  Norte  and  Colorado. 
It  is  the  fmiioiis  Sierra  Jlimhres. 

The  area  thus  cut  oft'  between  it  and  the  mountain  of  the  Rio  Florida 
is  drained  by  the  rivers  Del  Norte,  Pecos,  and  Conchos,  which,  uniting  at 
the  western  base  of  the  Sierra  3Iadre.  perforate  it  by  a  aiiiion,  and,  escap- 
ing into  the  external  maritime  region,  form  the  llio  Grande  of  Texas. 


ERICA,  ETC. 

eventually  to  contain 
i-hl. 

<s  it  ix,  by  the  Anieri- 
er,  and  i.s  to  tlieni  as 
theless,  it  is  of  such 
,'hich  rank  with  the 
'  primary  niountains. 
)hic  map  of  1845,  as 
the  Cordilleras  and 
It  -would  exhaust  a 
•es  of  this  region,  all 

sion  of  iiitnonoHtane 
I'roni  south  to  north. 
Isthmus  of  Tehuan- 
s.  Advancing  along 
nountain  chain  issues 
lids,  plunges  into  the 
This  .'uts  off  to  the 
the  Jirst,  the  smallest, 

3S  from  Durango  to 
7  Mapimi.''  This  is 
I  flank  these  two  and 
that  the  ocean  vapors 
!  outward  over  them. 
I,  nor  any  rivers  run- 
\-e  the  drainage  from 
again  by  evaporation, 
he  Kio  Florida ;"  the 

he  state  of  Sinaloa,  a 
ible  Lands  due  north, 
•c  of  San  Luis  and  the 
)le  mountain,  is  1300 
Norte  and  Colorado. 

lin  of  the  Rio  Florida 
;hos,  which,  uniting  at 
y  a  ainan,  and,  escap- 
j  Grande  of  Texas. 


■^ 


MOCyTALV  FOIiMATtOX   OF  NOIiTIl  AMERICA,  ETC. 


19 


This  is  tlie  only  wator-course  which  perforates  the  Sierra  >Iadro  between 
Cape  Horn  and  the  Arctic  Sea.  It  is  lierc  that  a  profound  and  distressing 
error  pervades  all  the  existing  charts  and  delineations  of  our  continental 
geography.  These,  omitting  the  great  Sierra  .Madre  for  (iOO  or  700  miles 
of  its  Icngtli,  and  assigning  its  name  to  the  Sierra  Minibres,  locate  the 
Rio  del  Xorte  and  its  vast  basin  with  the  .system  of  Atlantic  rivers.  Yet 
the  Sierra  Mimhres  abounds  in  pedrigals  of  lava,  craters,  and  volcanic 
phenomena,  and  the  geological  altitude,  configuration,  and  a  thousand  pal- 
pal)le  characteristic  features  of  the  ba.sin  of  tlie  Del  Norte,  locate  thi'm 
upon  the  Plateau  of  the  Table  Lands.  This  blunder  of  transposition  is 
more  foolish  than  to  construct  a  map  of  Europe  and  forget  the  Alps,  or  to 
draw  for  the  people  a  ])ine-trce  growing  erect  in  the  middle  of  the  ocean, 
whilst  doli)hins  graze  upon  a  mountain  slope !  The  vast  basin  of  the 
0el  Norte  is  then  tlie  third  in  order  of  the  mountain  basins  of  the 
Plateau. 

The  Western  Cordillera  continues  to  traverse  Sonora,  and,  passing 
round  the  Gulf  of  California,  rea])pears  in  sight  of  the  ocean  in  the  State 
of  California.  Opposite  San  Bernardo  another  numntain  chain  branches 
from  its  eastern  flank,  traverses  the  Table  Lands  by  a  northern  cour.se, 
dividing  the  waters  of  the  Colorado  and  Great  Salt  Lake,  and  plunges  into 
the  Sierra  Madre  between  the  .sources  of  Green  River  and  Snake  River. 
This  is  theyoHr^/t  great  moiuitain  chain  of  the  Table  Lands,  is  1000  miles 
in  length,  and  is  the  Sieura  Wasatch. 

Between  it  and  the  Sierra  Mimbres  is  included  tlie  immense  Mountain 
Basin  of  tiik  Colokado,  which  is  tho  fourth  subdivisicm  of  the  area  of 
the  Table  Lands.  This  basin  has  an  immense  area,  great  altitude,  an 
infinite  perplexity  of  mountains,  and  is  redundant  in  striking  and  wonder- 
ful novelties.  The  Rio  Verde,  Rio  Grande  of  the  West,  and  Rio  San 
Juan,  collect  its  upper  waters,  and,  uniting  against  the  inner  flank  of  the 
Cordillera  of  the  Snowy  Andes,  gorge  it  diagonally  through  and  through, 
and  escape  into  the  Gulf  of  California.  This  sublime  gorge  is  557  miles 
in  length,  and  is  known  as  the  "  Canon  of  the  Colonido.''  It  is  through- 
out a  narrow  mountain  chasm,  traversing,  without  interruption,  the  very 
bowels  of  the  Andes,  having  perpendicular  mural  .sides,  often  many  thou- 
sand feet  in  altitude. 

Other  important  aflluents  of  the  Cohn-ado  (the  Mohabe,  the  Little  Colo- 
rado, and  the  Gila)  force  their  way  into  it  by  an  infinite  labyrinth  of 
gorges,  similarly  scooped  through  the  bowels  of  the  mountain  mass. 
These  two    remarkable  basins,  then, — the  Del  Norte  and  Colorado, — lie 


linst  the  Sierra  Mimbres,  as  a  back!) 


)ne.    The  waters  of  tlie  first  uortre 


the  Eastern  Cordillera  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico;  those  of  the  second   the 


20 


MOfSTMN  FOllMAl'lOy   OF  SOHTIl  AMh'ltlVA,  ETC. 


Wt'storii  Cortlillora  to  the  Gulf  of  California  ;  but  no  yorjr'e  unites  them 
tliiouj,^!  the  .Siona  Miuibn  s,  wliiuli  is  uniierfoiatoil. 

Tlu'si-  lia.sin.s  arc  both  lonjiitutlinal  in  shajic  and  jiosition  ;  thoy  overlap 
one  another,  an<l  thereby  multiply  the  luiniber  and  complexity  of  moun- 
tain barrier-s.  Amoiiji  the  jihysieal  jihenomena  of  the  ^'loiu',  this  '■' Cunou 
iif  tlif  Colorado"  is  an  isolated  fact,  unicpie  and  sublime  in  interest. 

These  two  basins  are,  /mr  i.mi/t iht,  the  metalliferous  dei)artment  of 
the  world,  and  are  in/nsiil  thro\ijihout  with  utoinitdiiis  of  the  precious 
stones,  and  precious  and  base  metals — of  lava,  obsidian,  and  marble — of 
salt,  coal,  and  with  rivers  of  thermal  and  medicinal  waters. 

Let  me  hasten  to  other  subdivisions  of  e(puil  interest.  Near  the  forty- 
second  dejiree  of  latitude,  the  Western  Cordillera  throws  oflf  the  Ji/th 
mountain  chain  of  the  Table  Lands.  This  has  a  serjjentine  course,  mainly 
east  and  west,  is  12(H(  miles  lonjr,  and  forms  the  division  bi'tween  the  hasin 
of  the  Stilt  Ltiht;  iunX  the  htis'ni  of  tlif.  Coliiiiil/fd.  It  joins  with  the  Sierra 
Wasatch,  and  immediately  at  the  point  of  junction,  plunges  with  it  into 
the  Eastern  Cordillera. 

This  great  basin,  containing  in  one  of  its  depressions  the  Salt  Lake,  is 
the  counterpart,  on  our  continent,  of  the  Caspian  of  Asia.  It  is,  like  the 
first  and  second  basins,  encased  all  around  with  an  unperforated  mountain 
wall,  and  neither  sends  nor  receives  water  from  any  sea. 

Nearly  oj)posite  to  I'ugctt's  Sound,  a  >ii\vth  chain  of  mountains,  break- 
ing oft"  from  the  eastern  flank  of  the  Western  Cordillera,  traverses  tlie 
Table  Lands  by  a  due  northern  course,  and  sinks  into  the  Eastern  Cor- 
dillera, closely  enveloj)ing  the  sources  of  the  Columbia  Iiiver.  This  is 
called  the  Uk?;n.\aua\  ^Iolntains,  and  divides  the  waters  of  the 
Colnndjia  from  those  of  Frazer's  Kiver. 

The  Basin  of  the  CoLUiiiUA  is  the  sixth  in  order  of  the  basins  of 
the  Table  Lands.  It  is  the  most  admirable  ol"  them  all.  A  splendid 
circular  configuration  and  two  primary  rivers.  Its  size,  position,  and  con- 
figuration, relatively  to  the  Mississijipi  Valley  and  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
make  it  the  elite  of  them  all.  It  extends  all  across  the  Table  Lands  from 
rim  to  rim,  as  do  both  its  great  rivers — the  Snake  Iiiver  and  the  Colum- 
bia— which,  uniting,  gorge  the  Western  Cordillera  at  the  Cascades,  j)cnc- 
trating  through  them  to  the  Pacific  in  4(5^  l\)'.  They  run  from  east  to 
west,  and  connect  exactly  by  convenient  and  single  pa.s.ses  across  tlie  East- 
ern Cordillera,  with  the  great  rivers  flowing  down  to  tlie  Atlantic.  It 
partakes  of  all  the  cardinal  characteristics  of  the  other  basins,  liaving,  in 
addition,  mighty  forests,  navigation,  a  larger  share  of  arable  qualities,  and 
a  superior  economy  in  its  topographical  siuface  and  position. 

Such  are  the  six  primary  basins  and  mountain  chains  v;hieh  checker 


i 


IL'/tlt'A,  ETC. 


MOUSTAIN  FOliMATION   OF  XOIITII  AMERICA,  ETC. 


'A 


IK)  j;(H<j.'l'  uiiiti'S  tliciu 


Misition;  they  overliip 

cdiiipk'xity  of  luoiin- 

lu'  <.'!obi',  tl\is  ^'C'tiiiou 

ime  in  interest. 

t'erous  (li'imitiuent  of 

il((iiis  of  the  jjiveioiis 

diaii,  and  marble — of 

waters. 

rest.  Near  the  forty- 
i  tlirowB  t)flf  the  fifth 
jicntine  eour.se,  mainly 
isiun  In'tween  the  hanin 
t  joins  with  the  Sierra 
1,  plunges  with  it  into 

isions  tlic  Salt  Lake,  is 
f  Asia.  It  is,  like  the 
unperforuted  mountain 
f  .sea. 

n  of  mountains,  break- 
Tordillera,  traverses  the 
i  into  the  Eastern  Cor- 
unibia  River.  This  is 
des   the  waters  of  the 

order  of  the  basins  of 
tliem  all.  A  splendid 
I  size,  position,  and  eon- 
ind  till!  Paeilie  Oeean, 
s  the  Table  Lands  from 
L'  River  and  the  Coluni- 
a  at  the  Ca.xcades,  j)ene- 
They  run  from  east  to 
J  passes  across  the  East- 
VII  to  the  Atlantic.  It 
other  basins,  having,  in 
I  of  arable  qualities,  and 
id  position. 
I  chains  which  checker 


and  arrange  them.selves  into  the  Grand  Platk.M'  of  tiik  Tablk  Lands, 
as  I  have  seen  them  and  become  familiar  with  them.  There  is  a  scn-iith, 
the  ba.sin  of  Frazer's  River,  with  which  I  am  acquainted  only  from  the 
reports  of  others  who  have  reconnoitered  it.  It  has  the  same  general 
features,  though  .smaller,  longitudinal  in  direction,  and  narrow. 

We  may  now,  then,  return  to  the  third  elementary  division  of  the 
mountain  formation  of  North  America,  namely  :  TiiK  Platkak  ok  Till; 
Taulk  L.vxds.  We  may  understand  its  variety  and  vastne.><s,  yet  handle 
it  as  a  unit.  The  lowest  sedimentary  points,  where  the  waters  accumulate 
into  the  lakes  of  Mexico,  jNIapimi,  Gasman,  and  Salt  Lake,  have  an 
average  altitude  of  G(HK)  feet  above  the  seas.  Tlie  ir/m/f  P/iifiaii  /kis  tlim 
the  clictitiim  of  a  prlnutry  iiiituiitnlu.  It  is  (iverywheri!  fertile,  being  jtas- 
toral  for  the  most  part,  but  arable  where  irrigation  is  adopted. 

JIvery  geological  forniiition  exists  on  a  Titanic  scale:  volcanoes,  colum- 
niu-  basalt,  and  pedrigals  of  crystallized  lava;  porjdiyritie  granite  and 
.sandstone,  and  secondary  basins  of  tin;  sulphate  and  carbonate  of  lime.  It 
is  universally  a  rainless  region,  and  nctwhere  is  arable  agriculture  po.ssible 
without  artiKcial  irrigation.  Pa.storal  culture  is  the  prominent  feature, 
wherein  it  rivals  the  Great  I'lains.  The  air  is  tonic  and  exhilarating — 
the  atmosphere  resplendent  with  perpetual  sunshine  by  day  and  with  stars 
by  night.  The  climate  is  inteusely  dry,  and  the  temperature  variant  and 
delicious. 

Habitations  are  not  essential  in  this  salubrious  and  vernal  clime;  the 
aborigines  dispense  with  them.  During  six  years  that  I  have  ]ia.ssed  ujion 
the  Plateau,  I  have  rarely  slept  within  a  house  or  beneath  any  canoj)}' but 
the  sky,  infinitely  spangled  with  stars.  Upon  this  Plateau  has  existed, 
within  our  memory,  the  populous  and  civilized  empire  of  the  Aztecs,  and 
in  South  America  that  of  the  Incas.  Timber  grows  upon  the  rivers  and 
upon  the  irrigated  mountain  flanks.  To  arrange  the  arable  lands  for  irri- 
gation is  not  more  co.stly  than  our  system  of  fencing,  which  it  supersodej?. 
No  piu'tion  of  tlu'  globe  can  maintain  so  dense  a  population. 

But  the  fourth  subdivision  of  the  "  ^lountain  Formation  of  North 
America"  is  the  SxowY  Cordillkra  of  the  Ande.s.  Everybody  is 
familiar,  from  childhood,  with  the  South  American  Andes.  This  of  ours 
is  the  same,  unchanged  in  any  characteristic,  except  an  increased  and 
superior  grandeur.  Let  us  restore  to  it  its  ancient  and  illustrious  name! 
Let  us  iiupiire  how  it  has  come  temporarily  to  be  lost. 

The  Andes  traverse  the  American  continent,  in  one  unbroken  and 
uniform  mass,  from  Cape  Horn  to  Behring's  Strait.  Towards  the  ocean, 
to  who.se  indented  .shore  they  are  parallel,  and  from  which  they  are  every- 
where visible,  they  present  a  precipitous  front  and  immense  altitude ;  they 


•to 


MOi'XTAl.y  FOItMATIOX  OF  NOHTU  AMEltWA,  ETC. 


uverywhure  suniiouiit  tlii;  line;  of  jit'ipotual  Miiow.  I'imhi  this  front,  wliidi 
ruct'ives  tlie  perpetual  wimls  f'roiu  tlio  (ictaii  anil  is  liatlu'il  witli  its  va]ior.s, 
KiiuWH  and  iori'St.s  ari-uinulatc  as  u|i(in  the  Alii.s.  But  on  tlu'ir  suinniit  of 
|»'r|K'tual  eongclation,  tlii'se  vajiors,  (•oiiilrnsed  to  iee,  are  as  solid,  as  |it'r- 
jK'tiiai,  as  tlie  granite  rocks.  No  vajiors  jiass  over  to  the  hiittr  rejiinn, 
whiih  is  naked  of  snow,  tiniher,  or  irrijiation.  Heme  has  ;-oni(!  this  dis- 
tinetive  Spanish  sobriipiet  of  this  sulilinie  sea-wall — Cordillera  Xniii/n  de 
los  Andes  (the  siiuiri/  ehain  of  the  Andes) — to  define  it  s|)ecilieaily  from 
the  naked  masses  within!  Thus,  sinee  this  aneient  and  familiar  Anuks 
has  come  to  he  domesticated  in  our  repuhliean  empire,  within  the  States 
of  California  and  (►re^on,  has  it  been  thoughtlessly  jiluiidered  of  its 
name,  defineil  only  hy  an  expletive,  snoin/,  and  incontinently  ii;nored  of 
its  supreme,  coronat  ■d  rank  in  the  mountain  system  of  the  world. 

U\  then,  you  rt^juire  from  me  a  description  of  this  /mnf/i  subdivision 
of  our  mountain  foimation,  I  bid  you  to  ]ierusea^ain  the  tiiscinatin^r  pa<res 
of  I'llK.snrn'  and  his  predecessors ;  the  nmiautic  historians  of  CditrKZ, 
Al.V.VH.VlK),  and  I'lZAUlKi  ;  and,  above  all,  ihi'  oracular  inspiration  with 
which  tile  illustrious  lIt:.Mi«)LUT  lias  analyzed  the  };i'oi:raphical  wonders 
of  this  Cordillera  of  the  Snowy  Andes,  and  tinted  tiiem  with  divine 
elo(|Uence  ! 

Finally,  I  am  bewildered  how  to  speak  of  {hv  ji/fli  subdivision,  which 
is  the  Pacific  Mahiti.MK  KiuiNT.  'I'his  brinjis  us  out  to  meet  the  ocean, 
to  blend  tojrether  the  varieties  of  sea  and  land,  and  where,  auion<;  tho 
assembled  climates  and  countries  of  the  ^lobe,  Cornucopia  jiermaiiently 
dwells  with  her  ever-redundant  and  overtlowiny  horn  of  ripening  beauty 
and  plenty. 

This  Pacific  Maritime  Front  is  the  c/unterpart  of  that  outside  of  tho 
Allejihany  and  upon  the  Atlantic.  '  is  the  tide-water  rejiion.  Tho 
Atlantic  Front  has  an  area  of  271,00(1  ,s(piare  miles,  this  of  420,0(10  ;  it 
is  not  mucli  broader  from  the  mountains  to  the  sea,  but  has  a  greater  lon- 
gitude. In  every  detail  of  climate,  vegetation,  soil,  and  physical  forma- 
tion, there  is  between  the.se  two  seaboards  the  complete.st  contnist. 

On  the  Pacific  are  blended,  beneath  the  vyv.,  and  swejit  in  at  one  sight, 
the  sublime,  castellated  masses  of  the  Andes — their  bases  are  .set  in  tho 
emerald  verdure  of  the  jtlaiii,  rising  gently  al)ove  the  sea-level — their 
middle  flanks  are  clothed  with  the  arborescent  grandeur  of  pine  and  cedar 
forests.  Naked  above,  and  towering  into  the  upper  air,  their  columnar 
form  of  structure  resembles  an  edifice  designed  to  enclose  the  whole  globe 
itself;  but  from  this  foundation,  and  rearing  their  snow-covered  crests 
another  mile  into  the  firmament,  shoot  u]i  volcanic  peaks  at  intervals  of 
one  hundred  miles,  encasing  the  throats  of  the  inner  world  of  fire,  and 


MKItK^A,  ETC. 


MOrSTMX  FOIIXATWX   OF  SOUTH  A3!EliICA,  ETC. 


23 


coruscatuil  in  ]n'ri)etiial  snow,  bL'uwith  contnutH  uf  vulcanic  smoke  and 
flames. 

Tlie  siililimest  of  tlie  oceans;  majestic  rivers  more  worthy  to  bo  deified 
tlian  tlie  (lan,i:es  or  K;:y|itian  Nile;  the  j^randcst  and  most  eU'vated  of 
eartli's  mountains  ;  sn|)erlative  forest  everj^rcen  ;  an  emerald  verilnre  and 
cxniierant  fertility;  a  mellow  and  delicions  atmosjdiere,  imbued  with 
jiur]ile  lints  reflected  from  the  ocean  and  the  mountains ;  a  soft  vernal 
tempcratup'  the  ytar  round.  Whatsoever  can  be  cond)ined  of  massive 
and  rnuiicd  mountains,  |)ietnn'S(|U(!  land.scape,  and  a  verdant  face  to  nature 
shininji  under  the  richest  sunii;;ht  :  a  climate  soft  and  serene;  whatsoever 
of  idl  tlicse,  blended  and  enjoyed  in  combination,  will  acc()m|ilish  to  j;ive 
grace,  elevation,  and  refinement  to  the  .social  world,  are  here  united  to  woo 
and  develop  the  {renius  of  our  ccmntry  and  our  people. 

In  all  these  natural  favoi"s  our  ins/irn  seaboard  front  i.s  supremely  more 
gifted  than  the  classic  shores  of  the  ^lediterranean  and  the  Asian  Seas, 
for  fifty  ci^nturitjs  the  favorite  tlunne  of  history,  inietry,  and  song.  The 
emliellishmcnts  which  old  society  and  the  accunmlating  contributions  of  a 
hundred  .successive  generations  add  to  nature,  are  not  yet  there;  but  these 
iri/f  v(iiiii\  and  to  us  who  fan  the  career  of  our  great  country  whilst  we 
live,  the  future,  which  jwsterity  will  po.sscss  and  enjoy,  is  full  of  the  radi- 
ance of  trui'  glory. 

Such  is  a  honu'spun  and  laconic  di^tail  of  a  few  e.s.sential  fact.s  neccssjiry 
to  com])rchend  tlu;  ^'Mountain  FaniKitlnn  of  JVorfh  America"  and  to 
know  where  anil  what  it  is.  The  subji^ct  is  above  the  reach  of  imagina- 
tion or  ornament,  and  of  a  higher  level.  Intelligent  research  and  candid 
judgment  mu.st  supply  the  rest  and  fill  up  the  portrait. 


CTIAl'TEli    II. 

THE  CORDILf.KIlA   OF   THE   SIEKHA  MADUE — THE  EASTERN  COHDIM.EUA. 

This  is  an  iinineiiso  department  of  our  icmntry,  of  primary  Hif,niificanco 
and  interest.  Vaj^uely  dennminated  the  '•  Stony  or  lloeky  jMountains," 
oeeupyinjr  an  inlio.'fjiitalilu  wa.stc  l)eyond  the  enerj^ien  of  soeial  adviMitnre, 
manivind  lias  lieretofore  heard  the  name  with  indifierence,  and  ail  minute 
detaiL  with  dogmatic  aversion.  To  establisii  it.s  title  to  esteem  in  the 
poi)ular  oj)ini()n  of  the  world,  the  complete  reverse  of  this,  is  my  object. 

Prominent  in  the  "  Mountain  Sy.sti^m  of  the  (!lobe"  is  an  immen.sc 
girdle  of  mountains,  {granitic  in  Ibrmation,  crested  with  snow,  having  vol- 
canoca  on  its  flanks,  and  auri/eroiiH  thrt)Ughout.  This  commences  at  Capo 
Horn,  travcTses  the  whole  length  of  America  to  IJehring's  Strait,  tra- 
verses Asia  and  Eurojie  to  the  Pillars  of  Hercules,  traverses  Africa  and 
appears  in  the  islands  of  Madagascar,  Australasia,  and  New  Zealand.  If 
the  single  strait  of  Hercules  were  closed,  and  Suez  opened,  this  continu- 
ou.s  mountain  crest  woidd  exactly  contain  all  the  .salt  and  frt'sh  waters  of 
the  JJasiii  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  in  a  closed  circle,  and  divide  them  from 
those  of  the  Basin  of  tlie  Atlantic. 

This  continuous  girdle  becomes,  in  some  localities,  very  much  conden.sed 
in  breadth  and  altitude,  as  at  the  Istlimus  of  Central  America,  and  in 
France.  Elsewhere  it  a.ssumes  immense  expansion  in  area  and  altitude, 
spreading  out  and  elevating  itself  into  the  continental  plateau,  which  occu- 
pies the  whole  of  Central  Asia,  and  the  still  grander  "  I'lateau  of  the 
Table  Lands"  of  our  North  America. 

The  "  M'iKiilni'n  Formutian  of  North  America"  is,  then,  an  important 
section  of  this  innuensc  girdle,  which  bisects  all  the  continents. 

It  has  an  area,  a  massiveness  and  altitude,  a  position  an  •  climate,  a  fer- 
tility, a  variety  which  blends  all  the  peculiarities  of  all  other  sections :  a 
simplicity  of  configuration,  aud  a  sublimity  of  profile ',hich  transcends  all 
the  rest. 

Thus,  in  tlie  "  Cordillera  Nevada  dc  los  Andes"  is  found  the  full  equiv- 
alent of  the  South  American  mountains,  volcanoes,  active  and  extinct, 
crowned  with  glaciers  and  of  immense  altitude,  battlements  of  columnar 
basalt,  pedrigals  of  lava,  subterranean  and  thermal  streams.  The  plateau 
24 


''€4 


and  its  prim 
and  Asia  c( 
Finally, 

Belvi's  surpii 
the  inniicn^ 
cloud-conipi 

'•  The  ("1 
award*-  ••:  •! 
of  the  oceu 
the  sujircm 
th(!  Uio  (in 
the  Norlhc 
the  Amazo 
slope.      Is  I 

The  IVcsl 
by  evaporal 
Sirini  Mix 
the  atui  isp! 
flanks. 

i?ut  let  1 
our  own  CO 
to  my  eye, 
westwanl  ti 

It  is  wh 
Tehuantcpi 
continue  to 
gives  its  fo 
Pass  of  M 
serves  a  ve 

At  the  I 
canon  of  t 
through  ail 
rowing  a  c 
maritime  r 
This  gorge 
which  the 
of  the  con 
that  of  tin 
and  only  w 
the  .seas. 

The  Cor 


rilE   coinHLLKUA    OF    rilK  SIEItUA    MADItE. 


25 


ASTKRN  COUDIM.KUA. 


and  its  primary  cliuiiw  outrival  in  area  and  interest  those  of  South  Anieriea 
and  Asia  conihincd. 

iMnaliv.  the  stern  and  stniicndous  masses  of  the  Himalaya  fnid  them- 
selves surpassed  liy  the  primeval  hulk,  the  prodijiious  leii^iih  and  hreadth 
tlie  innnense  mesas,  the  romantic  pares,  tlio  far  protruding'  llanos,  and  the 
eloutl-eomiiellinf^  iey  peaks  of  the  Cordillera  of  the  Sierra  Madre. 

'The  Chain  of  the  Mother  Mountain"  is  the  <:enerie  iianiewliieh  piety 
award'.  ••'  Mils  eoutinuous  crest,  down  whose  flanks  descend  all  iIk?  feeders 
of  the  oceans.  Let  me  name  them  :  tin-  Athahasea,  the  Saskatchewan, 
the  supreme  Missouri  and  Mississip[ii,  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Texan  rivers, 
the  llio  (irande  del  Nurte,  the  Frazer,  the  (,'oluml)ia,  and  tlie  Colorado,  in 
the  Northern  continent.  In  the  Snulhern,  the  Ma^dalena,  the  Orinoco, 
the  Amazon,  the  La  Plata,  the  I'atajronia  rivei-s,  and  those  of  the  Pacific 
sloiK'.     Is  not  this  Cordillera  then  ri;;htly  called  the  Mother  ol'  ilivors? 

The  fresh  waters  of  the  earth  come  from  the  clouds;  the  clou<ls  come 
by  evaporation  from  the  expanses  of  the  oceans.  We  shall  know  that  the 
Siei-ru  Mmlre  divides  and  ndes  the  meteoric  powers  and  aerial  fluids  of 
the  atm  isphere,  equally  as  the  waters  which  we  sec  descending;  down  the 
flanks. 

But  let  me  at  present  restrict  myself  to  the  Cordillera  as  it  runs  athwart 
our  own  country,  and  define  its  varied  features  as  they  display  themselves 
to  my  eye,  looking  out  as  I  now  am  from  the  area  of  the  Great  Plains 
westward  to  the  l*acific. 

It  is  where  the  mountain  mass  debouches  north  from  the  Isthmus  of 
Tehuantej)ec,  that  it  bii'urcates  into  tbe  two  primary  Cordilleras,  which 
continue  to  expand  from  one  another.  The  .Mother  Mountain,  on  the  east, 
givt'S  its  form  to  tlie  (iulf  of  Mexico,  who.se  shore  it  pursues  nearly  to  the 
Pa-ss  of  Monterey  and  Saltillo.  Hence  to  tlie  Arctic  Sea  the  crest  pre- 
serves a  very  regular  line  to  the  north-northwe.st. 

At  the  point  of  entrance  into  our  present  territory,  it  is  gorged  by  the 
cafion  of  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte.  This  caiion  is  a  gorge  cut  obliijuely 
through  and  through  the  bowels  of  the  Cordillera,  where  the  river,  bur- 
rowing a  cha.sm  l!ir>  miles  in  length,  accomplishes  at  once  its  exit  into  the 
maritime  region  and  its  descent  from  the  '^Plateau  of  thr.  Tabh:  Lands." 
This  gorge,  impracticable  for  common  uses,  is  the  only  water  curnnit  by 
which  the  Sierra  Madre  is  perforated  anywhere  between  the  extremities 
of  the  continent.  I  have  elsewhere  .spokcM  of  this  canon,  together  with 
that  of  the  Colorado  and  that  of  the  Columbia,  as  the  three  remarkable 
and  only  water-gaps  whereby  the  plateau  discharges  its  surplus  waters  to 
the  seas. 

The  Cordilleva  of  the  Sierra  Madre  enters  our  territory  in  latitude  29°, 


■ju 


!.■>! 


ID 


MAP   OF 

NORTH    xVMERICA 

ill  which  ar(MU'liiu'aU>cl  IIk' 

MOUNTAIN  SYSTEM  ASA  UNIl 
WuiAWAl  ( AL(  AllKOrSlMAlN  and  ils  DETAILS, 

f//n/    Ihc   t  on /inor.s   nirirri i n fi 

MAR  VV  i  .V(  i'",    v^  b\  i,  \\\  I>  l-'. . 

1 


t 


no 


10.-. 


26 


THE   CORDILLERA    OF   THE  SIERRA   MADRE. 


longitude  103°,  antl  passes  beyond  the  49th  degree,  in  longitude  114°.  Its 
length,  then,  witliin  these  linnts,  exceeds  IGOO  miles.  It  nuiintain.s  an 
avenige  distance  from  tlie  Mississijipi  Kiver  exceeding  10(10  miles,  and 
has  the  same  distance  from  the  beach  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  it  forms, 
therefore,  a  continuous  sunmiit  crest  parallel  to  and  midway  between  them. 

All  the  varieties  of  formation  which  distinguish  the  mountain  chains 
of  tlie  continents  here  follow  one  another,  or  are  blended  in  groups,  and 
exist  on  a  Titanic  .scale  of  magnitude. 

Mrs(i>i  exist,  being  mountains  of  immen.se  base  and  perpendicular  walls, 
whose  summits  have  the  level  surface  and  smoothness  of  a  table :  Bntis, 
which  are  conical  peaks  wrought  into  perfect  .symmetry  of  contour  by  the 
corroding  power  of  the  atmosphere:  JJ<iH<»i,  being  mesas  of  inferior  ele- 
vation prolonged  outward  as  promontories  protruding  from  the  mountain 
flanks,  and  separating  from  one  another  the  descending  rivers :  Ciinniin, 
chasms  walled  in  on  either  side  with  mural  jirecipices  of  mountain  alti- 
tude;  7)'(n/o(/.s,  or  jxnr.s,  valleys  scooped  out  of  the  main  dorsal  mass  of  the 
Conllllcni,  within  which  they  are  encased,  each  as  an  amphitheatre. 

This  mountain  crest,  exhibiting  all  these  varieties  of  profile,  has,  when 
seen  against  the  horizon,  the  resemblance  of  a  saw  or  cock.s-comb,  whence 
the  sobri((uet  Sirrrn  ;  the  continuous  ma.ss  on  which  they  rest  resembles 
a  chain  of  links  or  cord  with  knots,  whence  the  name  ('ordilknt.  Thus 
is  seen  the  expressive  definition  wherein  thefir.st  jMrmneans,  the  Sjmniards, 
our  predecessors,  have  comj)ressed  this  supreme  mountain  feature  of  our 
continent,  CunUlkra  dc  hi  Sierra  Mmhr .' 

To  bring  the  mind  to  an  easy  and  familiar  understanding  of  this  sub- 
ject, embracing  so  many  details,  it  is  necessary  to  ascend  to  the  s>immit 
crest  at  the  forty-ninth  degree,  from  hence  to  follow  its  sinuous  'jdge  to 
the  south,  to  skim  from  point  to  point  of  the  .serrated  jmitile,  and,  from 
this  elevation,  to  extend  the  vision  outward  on  either  flank  to  where  it 
subsides  into  the  general  foundation  of  the  continent. 

From  such  a  position  the  eye  continually  overlooks  the  "  Pfatcau  of 
the  Tabic  Lands"  on  the  west,  the  ''  Bas'n  of  (lie  Misumijijir  on  the 
east. 

The  average  elevation  of  the  crest  is  12,000  feet  above  the  sea  ;  that  of 
the  broad  pediment,  from  whose  longitudinal  axis  it  rises,  0000  feet ;  the 
breadth  across  is  300  miles;  so  stupendous  in  area,  bulk,  and  solidity,  is 
the  mass  of  the  Sierra  Madre  ! 

Every  one  has  built  card  houses  in  childhood,  having  a  second  story 
over  the  centre ;  such  a  structure  illustrates  a  cross  section  of  the  Sierra 
Madre  in  its  primeval  form. 

This  regularity  of  form  has  disappeared  under  the  corroding  influences 


'iA   MADIiE. 


THE   CORDILLERA    OF   TI/E  SIERRA   MADRE. 


27 


r  the  corrodiim'  iiifluencca 


of  the  atmosphere,  operating  durinjj;  countless  ages,  and  the  abrading 
powers  of  a  tliou.sand  rivers,  carrying  down  their  attritions  to  the  sea. 
What  is  left  presents  an  immense  labyrinth  of  mountain  summits,  under- 
mined and  channeled  to  a  profound  depth  by  the  yawning  gorges  of  the 
streams. 

Advancing  then  along  the  Mother  crest  in  the  direction  indicated,  the 
whole  eastern  flank  to  the  4;}d°  of  latitude,  and  lOOth"  of  longitude  {the 
Sutitli  Push),  is  striped  with  the  rivers  which  converge  to  form  the  Mis- 
souri proper  and  the  Yellowstone.  These  are  the  3[ilk  Kiver,  the  Mis- 
souri, the  Wisdom,  Jefferson,  IMadison,  and  Gallatin  forks,  all  converging 
into  the  Mis.souri ;  the  Yellowstone  proper,  the  Wind,  I'okeagie,  and 
Powder  Rivers,  all  converging  into  the  Yellowstone. 

These  rivers,  each  having  its  complement  of  aflluents,  are  all  of  great 
length,  and  pour  down  an  immense  volume  of  waters.  A  very  small  pro- 
portion reaches  the  sea,  for  where  they  debouch  from  the  mountains  at 
the  lowe.st  altitude,  these  waters  are  consumed  by  evaporation,  rising  to 
qu'"i'h  che  thirst  of  the  arid  atmosphere  and  surface  of  the  great  prairie 
ocean.  But  down  the  western  flank,  within  the  same  limits,  descend 
rivers  of  equal  number  and  magnitude,  going  to  traverse  the  elevated 
"  liasin  of  the  Cohimhid ;"  these  are  the  Columbia  proper,  the  Cottonais, 
the  Fliitbow,  Pcnd-oreilles,  Spokan,  Salmon,  and  Snake  Rivers. 

These  rivers  have  a  more  immediate  descent  to  the  sea  than  those  upon 
the  east ;  the  mountain  spurs  between  them  are,  therefore,  more  numer- 
ous, abrupt,  and  of  greater  altitude. 

It  is  easily  discernible  that  over  this  serrated  crest,  whence  so  many 
rivers  radiate  as  from  u  single  knife-edge,  there  are  many  depressions  or 
passes,  liaving  every  variety  of  altitude  and  accessibility.  The  gorges 
which  lead  outward  from  these  passes,  all  eventually  converge  to  the  Mis- 
souri and  to  the  Columbia. 

The  more  southern  portion  of  this  mountain  crest,  where  it  divides  the 
waters  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Snake  Rivers,  and  is  seen  from  the  great 
road  of  the  Soutli  Pass  traveled  by  our  people,  has  the  local  name  of 
"Wind  River  Mountain."  Tlie  mountain  crest,  curving  to  the  east,  and 
describing  a  semicircle,  envelops  the  whole  basin  of  the  Yellowstone  as  in 
a  ciit-(Ir-s(u;  and,  subsiding  gradually  in  altitude,  disappears  upon  the 
bank  of  the  Mis.souri. 

It  is  by  this  jteculiar  configuration  that  the  mountain  crest  here  practi- 
cally disajipears,  and  leaves  the  open  depression  of  die  South  Phhh,  into 
which  we  gain  access  by  the  Sweetwater  on  the  east,  and  by  Snake  River 
on  the  west,  pa.ssing,  by  this  means,  coun)letely  around  the  arc  described 
by  the  Wind  River  Mountain  crest. 


28 


THE   CORDILLERA    OF   THE  SIERRA   MADRE. 


A  similar  configuration  to  this  exists,  on  a  small  scale,  in  the  Alps 
dividing  France  fifim  Italy,  which  may  be  mentioned  here  on  account  of 
the  aptness  of  the  illustration  and  the  familiarity  with  which  history  has 
for  twenty  centuries  invested  it. 

It  is  where  the  Alpine  crest,  under  the  successive  names  of  Savoy  Alps, 
IMount  Ccnis,  and  Maritime  Alps,  sweeps  round  in  a  regular  arc  from 
Geneva  to  Genoa,  and  thence  subsiding  into  the  Apennines,  bisects  Italy 
lengthwise  to  the  sea. 

Within  this  arc  is  embraced  the  basin  of  the  Po,  oalled  once  Liguria, 
but  now  Piedmont.  Around  this  arc  marched  the  armies  of  Brennus  and 
Hannibal ;  those  of  the  Romans  passing  into  Gaul  by  the  plain  of  the 
Rhone ;  and  here  also  still  pass  the  armies  and  people  of  France  and  the 
modern  J]uropeans. 

Upon  Snake  River  is  developed  the  most  northern  of  the  pares.  As 
thi;.  river  descends  from  the  Sierra  Mndre,  it  debouches  into  and  bisects 
an  immense  plain  of  the  most  novel  and  remarkable  features.  This  is  the 
Lara  Plain.  It  is  an  elliptical  bowl,  embraced  between  the  Salmon  River 
and  Snake  River  Mountains,  325  miles  in  length  and  95  in  breadth.  It 
is  a  uniform  pedrigal  or  flat  surface  of  vitrified  basalt,  melted  by  volcanic 
fires,  and  congealed  as  into  a  lake  of  cast  iron. 

Along  its  longitudinal  axis  stand  isolated  peaks,  known  as  the  '•  Three 
Butes  "  which  erect  themselves  to  the  snow  line,  like  volcanic  cones  pro- 
truding above  the  sea.  Cracks  of  profound  depth  traverse  this  plain, 
whose  blasted  surface  is  without  vegetation  or  water.  It  is  traversed 
beneath  by  subterranean  streams,  which  issue  from  natural  tunnels  in  the 
wall  of  Snake  River,  plunging  into  its  bed  by  magnificent  cascades. 

Bald  nakedness,  rather  than  sterility,  is  the  extreme  characteristic  of 
this  \Tonderful  plain,  which  has  around  i\s  rim  a  fringe  of  little  "  oases" 
upon  the  streams  bubbling  from  the  mountain  base,  of  exquisite  fertility 
and  of  the  most  perfect  romantic  beauty. 

When  we  call  to  memory  the  interest  attracted  in  every  age  to  the 
diminutive  formations  of  crystalline  basalt  upon  the  north  of  Ireland,  near 
the  city  of  jMcxico,  and  in  Southern  Italy,  we  are  struck  with  awe  at  the 
repetition  here  of  these  same  phenomena,  on  a  scale  of  stupendous  grandeur. 

Upon  the  alternate  flank  of  the  Sierra  Madrc,  the  bowl  of  the  Yellow- 
stone properly  classifies  itself  as  the  second  in  order  of  the  pares,  having 
its  oval  ft)rm  streaked  longitudinally  with  many  parallel  and  narrow  moun- 
tain ridges  gorged  by  parallel  rivers.  This  pare  is  very  fertile,  of  the 
grandest  scenery,  and  a  delightful  climate. 

Such  is  a  partial  sketch  of  the  Cordillera  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  from  the 
49th°  to  the  4i{d°  of  latitude.     .V  few  denominating  features  only  are 


I A    MA  DUE. 


THE  CORDILLERA    OF   THE  SIERRA    MADRE. 


29 


pointed  out ;  the  serrateJ  crests,  altenuitoly  rising  into  peaks  and  mesas 
above  the  snows,  and  depressed  by  passes ;  tlie  flanks  gorged  by  descend- 
ing rivers  or  branching  out  into  mountain  spurs  between  them — the  pares; 
the  general  direction  is  south-southeast. 

I  omit  to  speak  of  the  regions  around  the  liigher  sources  of  the  Mis- 
souri and  Columbia,  and  still  onward  to  the  noi-th,  not  because  they  are 
less  interesting  and  attractive,  but  because  I  have  not  myself  seen  them, 
and  because  they  are  of  identical  features,  and  are  as  yet  remote  from  the 
coUunn  of  progressing  empire. 

The  third  Jim  c  is  the  plain  of  the  South  Pass.  Although  adjacent  to 
the  other  two,  it  is  in  perfect  contrast  to  them  in  all  its  characteristic 
features.  Its  surface  of  clay  has  the  perfect  smoothness  of  a  water  plain, 
over  which  tlie  eye  ranges  without  interruption,  llain  is  rare,  and  the 
vegetation  of  grass  and  artcmisia  .scanty  and  uniform. 

Upon  its  south  front  rises  again  the  Cordillera,  under  the  local  name  of 
Table  Mountain.  This  forms  an  immense  arc,  similar  to  the  Wind  Kiver 
Mountain,  but  in  the  opposite  direction,  for,  turning  to  the  southwest,  it 
subsides  to  the  Rio  Verde,  which  is  the  great  Colorado.  These  two  arcs 
approach  one  another  within  thirty  miles,  forming  a  double  corner  over 
the  gorge  through  which  the  Sweetwater  escapes.  To  mark  the  conti- 
nuity of  the  mothei  crest,  a  gentle  crown  traverses  the  plain  from  one 
mountain  corner  to  the  other,  only  traceable  by  tb-^  perfect  division  which 
it  makes  between  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans. 

In  the  Table  Mountiiin  the  ConU/leni  rises  agiiin.  It  resumes  its  direc- 
tion, configuration,  and  altitude,  which  it  preserves  with  uninterrupted 
uniformity  clear  through  the  continent  to  Tehuantepec.  As  far  as  the  38th 
degree  of  latitude  it  sheds  the  waters  of  the  greo.t  Colorado  from  its  western 
flank  ;  those  of  the  Platte  and  Arkansas  Rivers  from  its  eastern  flank. 

I  am  admonished  here  to  pause  and  fix  attention  on  the  number,  gran- 
deur, and  variety  of  the  physical  elements  combined  around  this  culmi- 
nating ]  oint  of  the  mountains  and  the  rivers  of  our  continent. 

Nature  liere,  more  perfectly  than  at  any  other  point  upon  the  globe, 
unites  into  one  grand  coup-iVml  all  her  grandest  features,  which,  liaimo- 
niously  grouped,  present  to  the  mind  a  combination  of  superlative  sub- 
limity. 

These  contrasted  pares,  so  different,  yet  so  close  together !  the  intense 
massiveness  of  the  Cordillera  !  the  number  and  proximity  of  great  rivers ! 
the  brilliancy  and  .serenity  of  the  atmosphere  in  which  they  shine !  the 
awful  storms  whicli  at  long  intervals  brew  among  and  shatter  the  iced 
mountain  tops  !  the  graphic  conviction  ever  present  to  the  mind  of  the 
immediate  presence  and  presiding  omnipotence  of  the  Creator ! 


30 


THE   COnniLLERA    OF    THE  SIEItliA    MADUE. 


The  impression  left  with  mo,  ami  made  by  the  peculiar  irrit  and  appear- 
ance of  the  soil  which  overlays  the  plain  of  the  South  l*ass.  is  of  a 
'•  placer  of  kaoline,"  resembling-  the  biscuit  from  which  porcelain  is  burned. 
This  is  disintegrated,  and  washed  down  from  the  bald  mountain  flanks  of 
porj)hyritic  jxranite.  Whether  there  may  be  also  here  concealed  immense 
placers  of  jrold  an<l  precious  stones,  cominjj;  from  the  same  source,  is  imt 
yet  tested  ;  but  such  ought  to  be  the  fact,  from  the  pure  auriferous  mate- 
rial of  the  mountains. 

To  resume  again  the  pursuit  of  the  mountain  crest.  This  continues  to 
recover  its  altitude.  Soon  upon  the  eastern  flank  the  Northern  Pare,  or 
Bull-pen,  reveals  it.sclf ;  along  whoso  centre  meanders  the  great  Platte 
River,  here  running  to  the  north  in  a  direction  contrary  to  the  mountain 
crest.  This  is  the  fourth  in  number  of  the  pares,  but  has  been  the  tir.-<t 
and  best  known  in  popular  reputation. 

Being  very  large,  very  central,  and  easily  accessible  to  us  going  out  from 
the  lower  ]Missouri,  it  became  the  first  favorite  winter  home  of  the  early 
trappers  and  explorers.  It  is  an  amphit'ieatre  of  large  area,  whose  moun- 
tain walls,  covered  with  soil,  vegetation,  and  scattered  forests  of  evergreens, 
slope  gradually  up  on  every  side.  Its  level  plain  is  laced  with  streams 
and  checkered  with  meadows,  sparkling  with  flowers  and  romantic  grovi's. 
in  perfectly  graceful  alternations ;  its  atmosphere  is  genial  and  exhilara- 
ting, and  the  temperature  mild  throughout  the  year. 

Innnediately  beyond  the  highest  extremity  of  thejoiirfh,  but  upon  the 
west  or  alternate  flank  of  the  mountain  crest,  the  eye  drops  into  the  bowl 
of  the  f/fh  or  Middle  Pure,  expanding  to  contain  the  confluent  streams 
which  form  the  grand  river  of  the  Colorado. 

This  pare  is  larger  in  area  than  t\\Q  fourth^  but  is  vexed  with  far-pro- 
truding mountain  spurs,  narrow  streams  rattling  over  rocky  beds,  and  a 
cloudy  atmosphere,  made  fitful  by  the  altitude  and  close  jn-oximity  of  snow- 
dad  mountain  backs.  This  pare  has  its  mouth  towards  the  Pacific. 
Towering  up  from  the  mountain  crest,  where  it  divides  these  two  pares, 
rises  the  snowy  head  of  Long's  Peak,  who.ic  eastern  front  beetles  over  the 
Great  I'lains.  from  which  it  is  seen  for  fifty  leagues  by  tho.se  who  travel 
up  the  Basin  of  the  Kansas. 

Still  immediately  follows  on  the  eastern  flanks  the  Bai/ou  Sahtdo,  or  South- 
ern Pore,  which  is  the  sixth.  This  is  the  mountain's  bowl,  scooped  out 
for  it.self  Vjy  the  Southern  Platte,  as  it  desceiuls  from  the  snowy  cap  of 
Lincoln's  Peak.  This  pare  has  the  same  general  characteristics  as  the 
fourth,  but  is  greatly  inferior  to  it  in  size,  fertility,  and  climate,  being 
closely  heilged  in  by  great  mountains.  I'rom  whose  snows  descend  ince.'^sant 
storms,  and  a  i'ebrile  dampness  infesting  the  atmosj)here.     From  the  same 


I- AM    MADRE. 


THE  conniLi.EiiA  of  the  sierka  ma  due. 


31 


pcfuliar  grit  and  appoar- 
tlie  South  Pass,  is  of  a 
ivhieh  jtnroolain  is  buriii'd. 
!  l)ald  iiiduntain  flanl<s  of 
licrc  cfiiicoaU'd  iimiu'iise 
11  the  saino  source,  is  imt 
the  pure  auriferous  mate- 


glacier  which  surmounts  Lincohi's  Peak  descends  the  Arkansas  River  upon 
the  reverse  sk)pe.  The  river  has  no  pare  ;  it  defiles  into  the  plains  throuj-h 
a  canon. 

Here  is  discernible  in  the  mountain  crest  tlie  .same  eurviliuear  sweep  as 
in  the  Wind  lliver  mass.  Here  occurs  a  similar  concentric  knot  of  moun- 
tain crests,  rivers,  and  pares.  But  here  the  mountain  crest,  having  curved 
outwaid  to  accompli.>h  the  separation  of  the  Platte  and  Arkansas,  con- 
denses into  the  snowy  promontory  of  Pike's  Peak,  and  terminates  in  an 
abrupt  precipice  to  the  Great  Plains. 

At  both  of  these  remarkable  focal  points,  nature  seems  to  have  insti- 
tuted a  primeval  conflict  between  the  abrading  power  of  the  rivers  and 
the  stubborn  resistance  of  the  porphyritic  durability  of  the  mountain 
barrier.  At  the  northern  focus,  the  triumph  of  the  rivers  presents  a  com- 
plete harmony  of  the  pas.ses,  which  enter  at  all  points  upon  the  plain 
of  the  South  Pass,  and  connect  across  it.  At  the  southern  focus,  the 
unscathed  impenetrability  of  the  mountain  porphyry  presents  on  every 
front  its  mural  precipice  of  undiminished  altitude  ;  here,  then,  the  aus- 
tere rigidity  of  the  mountain  mass  triumphs  and  admits  no  transit  direct 
through. 

To  complete  the  perfect  counterpart  resemblance  between  these  foci, 
opens  from  the  western  flank  of  the  mother  crest,  the  Bayou  San  Luis, 
which  is  the  seventh  pare. 

This  is,  in  physical  formation  and  in  every  detail,  the  exact  twin 
counterpart  of  the  pare  of  the  "  Plain  of  the  South  Pass.'  The  Sierra 
Mimbres  bounds  its  western  edge,  along  whose  base  flows  the  Ilio  Bravo 
del  Norte. 

Elliptical  in  shape,  level  as  the  sea,  equal  to  the  third  pare  in  area, 
encoinpas.sed  by  the  sublimest  scenery,  abundantly  irrigated  by  streams, 
6500  feet  in  altitude,  it  has  an  alluvial  soil  of  luxuriant  fertility,  and 
seasons  eminently  propitious  to  agriculture.  It  is  in  this  delicious  "  Bai/ 
of  the  Sirrrns'  that  the  current  flow  of  time  will  find  renewed,  identified, 
and  developec'  all  the  charms  with  which  Oriental  narrative  and  .song 
have  invested  the  lovely  Valley  of  Kashmere ! 

The  Spanish  Peaks  outflank  the  mountain  crest  under  the  158th  degree  of 
latitude.  From  hence  to  the  2'Jth  degree  it  .sheds  the  waters  of  the  Rio 
Bravo  del  Norte  from  its  western  flank  ;  from  the  eastern  flank  descend  the 
Arkansas  and  the  Red  River,  flowing  to  the  Mississippi,  and  the  rivers  of 
Texas,  flowing  directly  to  the  Gulf. 

The  whole  front  is  masked  towards  the  east  with  a  screen  of  secondary 
7H(',sv(s  (tables)  termed  distinctively  Unnos.  These  are  immense  triangular 
terraces,  of  half  the  altitude  of  the  Sierra,  resting  against  its  flank,  pro- 


32 


THE   CORDILLERA    OF   THE  SIERRA    MADRE. 


truditi}^  uutward  many  hundred  miles,  gradually  dwarfing  in  breadth  until 
they  terminate  in  an  acute  angle. 

They  have  an  uninterrupted  level  surface  of  calcareous  soil,  a  scanty 
herbage,  and  rainless  atmosphere,  an  imperceptible  dip  towards  their  ter- 
minations, where  they  present  an  abrupt  wall  of  many  thousand  leet  in 
altitude,  suspended  above  the  Great  Plains. 

All  al(jng  these  mural  flanks  come  out  innumerable  streams,  which  go 
to  form  the  Arkansas,  the  Red  Kivcr,  and  all  tiic  rivers  which  traverse 
Texa.«.  Thus  is  explained  the  coui'usion  which  perplexes  the  public  mind, 
struggling  to  arrange  the  physictd  configuration  of  this  immense  region, 
as  yet  only  partially  explored. 

To  the  Mexican  people  who  inhabit  the  higher  mountain  region,  this  is 
known  as  the  lower  plain  ;  by  the  people  of  the  maritime  region,  who  see 
from  below  its  ragged  front,  it  is  designated  as  the  Guadaloupe  .Moun- 
tains, and  by  other  names. 

But  this  system  of  llanos,  seen  most  distinctly  in  Texas  as  the  LImio 
Eatiicudo  and  the  Lhtno  of  the  liaki/ata,  has  an  extent  and  magnitude 
on  a  scale  commensurate  with  all  the  other  distinctive  formations.  It  is 
the  coiitinu(jus  screen  or  Piedmont  which  graduates  the  immen.se  declina- 
tion in  altitude  from  the  summit  crest  of  the  Cordillera  to  the  smooth 
expanse  of  the  Great  Plains.  It  ajipears  from  above  as  a  depressed  mesa ; 
from  below  as  a  series  of  ragged  mountain  chains.  Geologically  it  is,  as 
it  were,  a  continental  terrace  or  steppe,  or  bench  of  the  sulphate  of  lime 
(plaster  of  Paris),  elevated  iibove  the  Great  Plains,  which  are  carbonate 
of  lime  ;  deprc.s.sed  below  the  Curdllkra,  which  is  porphyritic  granite. 

I  may  with  propriety  pause  here  to  speak  of  the  Basin  of  the  Kansas, 
both  on  account  of  the  fitness  of  the  opportunity,  and  because  this  delicious 
country,  surrounding  the  very  navel  of  our  continent  and  embracing  its 
geographical  centre,  has  from  that  fact  a  perpetual  and  paramount  interest. 

The  Kansas  River  has  its  extreme  sources  beneath  the  roots  of  Pike's 
Peak,  where  they  have  ceased  to  interrupt  the  plains.  The  Platte  and 
Arkansas  envelop  it;  and  form  a  line  of  drainage  between  it  and  the  Cor- 
dillera. But  in  front  of  the  Kansas  Basin  the  screen  of  the  Piedmont  is 
interrupted  and  disappears,  so  that  the  Great  Plains  stretch  up  to  the  base 
of  the  naked  Cordillera,  which  reveals  at  one  sight  the  towering  masses 
of  Pike's  and  Longs  Peaks,  and  the  curtain  of  snowy  mountains  which 
connects  them. 

A  similar  coup-iToeil  is  seen,  as  presents  itself  to  an  Italian  standing 
upon  the  Po  above  Milan,  whose  eye  sweeps  the  Plain  of  Lombardy,  and 
ascends  to  the  snowy  summits  of  the  highest  Alps,  without  any  interven- 
ing objects  to  interrupt  the  vision.     A  similar  resemblance  to  the  Alpine 


THE  CORDILLERA    OF    THE  SIERRA    MADRE. 


33 


formation  which  characterizes  the  parti.'.lly-explored  masses  immediately  to 
the  west,  has  acquired  for  them  the  local  name  of  "  TIelvetiaii  Mountains." 

From  these  two  peaks, — Loiijr's  Peak  to  the  nortli.  and  Tike's  Peak  to 
the  south, — as  from  twin  radiating  points,  the  riedniont  expands  from  the 
eastern  flank  of  the  Cordillera,  like  a  half-ojien  fan.  Towards  the  north 
are  the  Medieine-Pow  3Iountain  and  the  Laramie  Plain  ;  towards  the  south, 
the  U.itono  Mountain,  the  Llano  Balsiffeta.  and  the  Llano  Estaeado. 

Such  is  an  effurt  to  delineate  and  ela.ssify  the  ]>roniinent  physieid  features 
of  the  Miilhir  (^>r(/iflrrn  of  our  country;  the  .serrated  axis  which  forms 
its  core;  the  system  of  pares;  the  system  of  river.s  and  mountain  spurs; 
the  jieaks  and  mc.sas ;  the  system  of  llanos.  Its  m.'iterial  mass  is  primeval 
granite.  Volcanoes,  active  or  extinct,  craters  and  their  i,<iiieousdi.schar<;es, 
are  not  found.    (The.sc  exist  upon  the  Pldtcnn  and  in  the  Andcn  beyond.) 

This  Cordlllfra  is  auriferous  throughout.  It  contains  all  forms  of 
minerals,  metals,  'H.;nes,  ,«alts,  and  earths ;  in  short,  every  useful  .'^hape  in 
which  matter  is  elsewhere  found  to  arrange  itself,  and  in  all  the  geological 
gradations. 

The  prominent  agricultural  feature  of  the  Cordillera  is  fertility — pastoral 
fertility.  Stupendous  peaks  and  battlements  exist,  extreme  in  bald  and 
sterile  nakedness  ;  plains  there  are  blasted  with  perpetual  aridity  and  con- 
gealed by  perjjctual  frosts. 

The  space  thus  occupied  is  small ;  indigenous  gra.sses,  fruits,  !'nd  vege- 
tables abound  ;  it  swarms  with  animal  life  and  aboriginal  cattle  ;  food  of 
grazing  and  carnivorous  animals,  fowls  and  fi.sh,  is  everywhere  found  ;  the 
forests  and  flora  arc  superlative ;  the  immense  dimensions  of  nature  render 
accessibility  universal.  An  atmosphere  of  intense  brilliancy  and  tonic 
tout!  overflows  and  embalms  all  nature;  health  and  longevity  are  the  lot 
of  man. 

It  is  necessary  to  be  condensed  and  brief.  A  million  of  interesting 
facts  are  left  unraentioned.  Then  the  Cordillera  of  the  Sierra  Madre  is 
but  a  third  part  in  area  of  our  "  moiiufain  formafion."  If  the  inquiring 
spirit  and  jiatriarchal  fire  of  Jeff'erson  and  of  Astor  .still  burn  in  the  jiop- 
ular  lu'art,  the  continental  mission  of  1770  will  revive  and  reanimate  our 
generation.  Counterfeit  geography,  promulgated  with  official  dogmatism, 
will  cease  to  be  fashionable,  or  to  defeat  the  divine  instinct  of  the  people. 
Patriotism,  pioneered  by  truth  and  genuine  science,  will  reveal  and  com- 
prehend our  fOH^('«^)j^r?  geography  as  if  is.  huge  in  dimensions,  sublime  in 
order  and  .symmetry,  a  unity  in  plan.  Our  political  and  social  enqiire, 
expanded  to  the  same  dimensions,  harmonized  to  the  same  checkered 
variety,  will  assume  a  similar  order,  a  like  ,«ymmetry,  and  crown  hope  with 
a  similar  solid  and  enduring  perpetuity. 


CHAPTER    III. 

THE   PLATEAU   OF   NORTH   AMEUICA. 

It  is  now  twenty-sevon  years,  nearly  a  full  generation,  since  I  suliniitted 
to  the  scrutiny  of  science  and  the  public  "^t  Ilyilrographlc  Map  of 
Xoiih  America,''  exhibiting  in  daguerreotype  the  cardinal  physical  archi- 
tecture of  our  continent.  Upon  this  is  exactly  defined  the  Moinifuin 
Formation,  inclosing  the  Plateau  of  the  TaJ)le  Lands.  This  subdivision 
of  our  country,  amounting  to  one-third  of  the  whole  area,  conies  now  in 
the  bounding  march  of  empire,  to  have  a  necessary,  an  intense,  a  pre-emi- 
nent interest  to  our  people. 

Undoubtedly  the  scheme  of  Independence,  inaugurated  in  177t),  sus- 
tained through  the  fortitude  of  the  Revolution,  and  consummated  in  the 
Union  of  1787,  contemplated  and  conimeiieed  a  Continental  Republic! 
In  the  ripening  of  time,  we  are  now  called  upon  to  receive  into  this  con- 
tinental Union  the  indc.-pcndcnt  ai.d  equal  States  of  the  Plateau,  and  to 
construct  across  it  a  complete  system  of  co)itinental  railwai/. 

How  it  is  that  immense  facts,  dormant  since  creation,  and  noticed  only 
to  be  unanimously  rejected  by  human  society,  flash  suddenly  out  of  mid- 
night obscurity,  and  by  a  single  step  plant  themselves  upon  the  very 
throne  itself  of  public  attention,  may  be  thus  illustrated :  Columbus, 
intent  upon  discovering  a  direct  route  by  sea  to  Oriental  Asia,  died  with- 
out any  thought  of  the  new  continent,  or  knowledge  that  he  had  seen  It. 
Amerigo  Vespucci,  a  younger  navigator,  identified  the  new  continent, 
established  its  existence  in  the  popular  mind,  and  gave  to  it  his  own  name, 
America. 

Thus,  in  18-42,  commenced  to  agitate  itself  throughout  America,  the 
energetic  geographical  movement,  to  reorganize  the  column  of  central  pro- 
gress artificially  stagnated  in  Missouri  since  1820. 

Exploration,  conquest,  the  conversion  of  the  wilderness,  have  since 
advanced  with  intense  celerity. 

As  is  the  case  with  all  normal  instincts:  war,  peace,  domestic  and 
foreign  schemes  of  opposition,  have  each  contributed  to  precipitate  its 
advance  and  fire  its  activity. 

The  American  people  are,  then,  now  advancing,  victoriously  to  plant 
34 


MERICA. 

nenitioii,  since  I  submitted 
A  Ilydrngraphic  Mop  of 
lie  eanlinal  jiliyf^ieiil  iirclii- 
tly  defined  tlic  Moinifnin 
Lands.  This  subdivisiuu 
whole  area,  comes  now  in 
sary,  an  intense,  a  pre-emi- 

inaugurated  in  1770),  sus- 
1,  and  consummated  in  the 
I  a  Continental  Republic! 
jn  to  receive  into  this  con- 
ites  of  the  Plateau,  and  to 
ental  raihcay. 
B  creation,  and  noticed  only 
flash  suddenly  out  of  mid- 
themselvcs  upon  the  very 
ms  illustrated :  Columbus, 
0  Oriental  Asia,  died  with- 
(vledge  that  he  had  seen  it. 
intified  the  new  continent, 
nd  gave  to  it  his  own  name. 


f  throughout  America,  the 

3  the  column  of  central  pro- 

?20. 

the  wilderness,  have  since 

war,  peace,  domestic  and 
ntributed  to  precipitate  its 

ncing,  victoriously  to  plant 


™^'^'''«if!^m'f<''m^msmmm^^^^rf?9^''^ 


17.". 


Itio  U*<  Ml       ll.'i     II 


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ilcinocrnf 

IKIVclty   V 

I'latoan,  : 
Messes  elm 

fii  tliO 

tii'y  thi.s  ; 
iiri'l  (Icino 
jiowcr  in  t 

A  sill   (;oi 

Kurojp,.  Jill 
The  inn 

♦iiicnf.  exfi 
is  iiK^loscfJ 
liraeini.'  flii 
Ciisfiian  ,Se; 

flow  ill  to  til 
This  t,'rcii 

Jiiiineval  in 

I.ifituiie.s  ;J5 

niilcs. 

Such  is  tj 
filjre  is  inijJ 
fill.  WekJ 
hiirharians  |J 
to  the  seas, 
These  cojivj 
of  Europe, 

Sueh  is  a  I 

for  the  higj 

I'ojiiWations.l 

The  Pf,A 

Seas  :  the  ij 

large  rivers,] 

ranean.     It 

Here   is 

inspired  civ| 

systems  of 

'vligion,  trii^ 

Porpetuate  el 

the  earth  anl 


THE  i'i..\TF..\r  OF  yoirrif  amkukw. 


35 


ili'tnocrntlc  einjiirc  co-ctiual  with  tho  area  of  tlu>  CDntiiiciit.  Tl..-  utiiihI 
iKiVflty  wliii'li  rises  in  t'nmt.  is  tlic  /'/ufimi  nf  flir  Tulilr  Luiulx.  Tliis 
I'latiMU,  iiiL'losi'd  widiiii  tlu-  ('unlilli'ras  nf  tlio  Muiiiitaiii  Foniiatinii,  pns- 
HosHtw  eliaraftcristics  now  to  niankiiid,  and  about  to  arre;*t  the  attention  and 
sway  the  mental  enerjiieH  of  Anieriea. 

Ill  tli(!  first  jilacc,  it  is  necessary,  l>y  reference  and  coniiiarison,  to  ideji- 
tity  tiiis  Pliilidii ;  to  discover  wnat  and  whiTC  it  is;  and  tlience  to  tro  un 
and  demonstrate  its  area,  its  climate,  itH  capacity,  and  its  ^'eofrrajihical 
jiower  in  the  world. 

Asia  contains  two  jilateaux  ;  Smith  America,  one;  Noiih  A»nerica.  one. 
Europe  and  Africa  have  jixeat  mountain  chains,  ])ut  no  jilateau. 

Tiie  immense  I'lnfpnii  of  Asni  oecupies  the  central  rejrion  of  that  con- 
tinent, cxtendin};  ea.st  and  west  from  the  I'ontic  Sea  to  Middle  Chiiin.  It 
is  iiurloscd  hetween  the  Himalaya  IMountains  and  those  of  Siheria,  em- 
hracinii  the  uiiper  and  lower  jilains  of  Thihet  anil  the  prcat  lakes,  the 
Casjiian  Sea,  the  Sea  of  Aral,  and  the  IJalkash  Sea,  witli  the  rivers  that 
flow  iiito  them. 

This  !j;rcat  space  is  fenced  im])erviously  from  the  oceans  by  a  circuit  of 
]irimi'val  mountains:  it  extends  cast  and  west  4S(I()  miles,  between  the 
latitudes  ;{5°  and  r)0°.  Its  average  breadth,  north  and  south,  is  1200 
miles. 

Such  is  the  immense  cimtinental  plateau  of  Asia,  of  which  our  knowl- 
edge is  imperfect,  as  to  its  po]iulation  and  the  grade  of  civilization  they 
fill.  We  know  that  from  jirimcval  time,  periodical  swarms  of  conquering 
barbarians  have  descended  down  its  flanks  and  delngcd  all  the  continents 
to  the  seas,  convulsing  cmjiires  and  disjilacing  all  organized  societies. 
These  convidsions  have  extended  to  the  extremities  of  China,  of  India, 
of  Kurope,  and  into  Africa. 

Such  is  a  short  and  significant  memorandum  of  this  plateau,  remarkable 
for  the  high  antiquity,  the  numbers,  and  the  uniform  barbarism  of  its 
populations.     It  is  entirely  north  of  tlu'  isothermal  temperate  zone. 

The  Phifcait  of  Syria  occupies  the  .space  between  the  Vcrsian  and  Keil 
Seas  :  the  Dead  Sea  is  within  it  and  the  peninsula  of  Araliia  :  it  has  no 
large  rivers,  but  is  flanked  by  the  Euphrates,  the  Nile,  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean.    It  lies  across  the  Isothermal  temperate  zone  from  edge  to  edge. 

Here  is  the  original  birthplace  and  cradle  of  human  history  ami 
inspired  civilization.  Down  its  flanks  have  descended  all  the  ethereal 
systems  of  the  world,  which  enter  the  heart  of  men  and  inspire  true 
religion,  true  knowledge,  political  liberty,  and  which  erect,  enlarge,  and 
perjietuate  civilized  .society.  Hence  have  gone  forth  to  the  extremities  of 
the  earth  and  to  the  human  i-ace  throughout  all  time,  the  genuine  oracles 


36 


Tin:    PLATEAU   OF  XOllTIf   AMKIUCA. 


(){'  <  111(1  ri'vcaliiif:  rclipmi  and  lihcrty.  to  acliiovo  tho  eonqufst  uf  iJolatry 
anil  Ijaiharism,  and  disjilace  tlu'ni  from  tlie  luiman  heart. 

IJcncath  tho  e((iiator,  upon  the  summit  of  the  Peruvian  mountains,  is 
the  I'/iifidii  (if  thr  Aii(ff-  ilcrc  was  tlic  delicate  empire  and  system  of 
the  Incas,  wlneh  w'''.iered  before  I'izarro  and  tlie  Spaniards  as  a  vine 
before  the  tropical  siroc.  It  contains  ilie  Laki,  of  Titicaca,  ami  is  witliout 
larjre  rivers.  Of  excessive  elevation  and  aridity,  small  in  area,  arduous 
of  access,  and  approachable  only  thnui^h  torrid  lieats  which  .surround  its 
base  and  flanks,  this  Plateau  is  entirely  vithoiif  the  belt  of  the  isothermal 
temjierate  zone. 

Such  are  the  three  other  I*lateaux.  We  now  approach  the  fourth — our 
own — the  P/oterin  of  Xorth  America. 

I  have  heretofore  written  of  this  Plateau :  "  I  speak  witli  preat  diffi- 
dence:  but  of  all  the  departments  into  which  science  has  arranged  the 
physical  geography  of  the  globe,  this  appears  to  me  the  most  interesting, 
the  most  crowded  with  various  and  attractive  features,  and  the  most  cer- 
taiidy  destined  eventually  'o  contain  the  most  powerful  and  enlightened 
empire  of  the  world. 

•'  ^\t  present  it  is  no  more  known  or  comprehended,  ns  it  is,  by  the  Ameri- 
can peojile,  than  was  America  it.self  by  the  poet  ITomcr.  It  is  to  them 
as  much  a  myth  as  was  then  the  continent  of  Atalanta.  Nevertheless,  it 
is  of  such  great  area  as  to  contain  within  itself  three  great  rivers  which 
rank  with  the  Nile,  the  (Janges,  and  the  Danube  in  length,  and  five  great 
ranges  of  primary  mountains." 

The  A  ndes.  where  it  issues  from  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepee,  divides 
into  tlie  two  Cordilleras  of  the  north.  The  one  pursues  the  shores  of  the 
Mexican  Gulf;  the  other,  the  .shores  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  Cordil- 
leras, .ontinuing  to  open  from  one  another,  run,  with  gre^it  uniformity  of 
I'v.!!:  :!n;l  altitude,  through  to  the  Polar  Sea.  At  the  48d  degree  of  lati- 
tnile  they  are  1 400  miles  a.«under,  which  is  here  the  breadth  of  the  Plateau. 

'i'he  riiafirii  CanUVcra  is  the  Sierra  JIadre  (the  ^lother  Mountain); 
the  in.tfmi  CordilJvra  is  the  Sierra  Nevada  de  los  Andes  (the  Snowy 
Andes  \ 

T'  i ;.  ili(>n.  the  whole  immense  area  encased  within  the  Cordilleras  from 
Tehuaritepee  to  tlie  Polar  Sea,  is  the  I'lateau  of  Nfirth  America  !  The 
Cordiiloras  have  a  general  altitude  of  12,000  feet ;  the  Plateau,  of  (JOOO. 
The  I'la'oau  is  4000  miles  in  lengili.  having  its  direction  from  .southeast 
to  nortliN^e.st ;  its  superficial  area  is  2,000.000  sfpuire  miles.  The  portion 
within  our  territories  is  one-third  of  the  whole  country. 

Such.  then,  are  the  geographical  position,  the  t.rea,  and  the  altitude  of 
the  I'/dtuni.     Its  lo)iffitv(h'nnl  position  is  remarkable,  having  its  extremi- 


THE   PLATEAU  OF  XOHTJf  AMERICA. 


'M 


y^^{  of  idolatry 

n  mountains,  is 
ami  system  of 
liarils  as  a  vine 
,  aii'l  is  without 
in  area,  arduous 
Icii  surround  its 
1"  the  isotlicrmal 

the  fourth— our 

with  ?rrcat  difli- 
has  arranged  the 
most  interesting, 
ind  the  most  cer- 
and  enlightened 

t  ,\  by  the  Ameri- 
cr.  It  is  to  them 
Nevertheless,  it 
rreat  rivers  whith 
gth,  and  five  great 

huantepec,  divides 
the  shores  of  the 
can.  The  Covdil- 
re-it  uniformity  of 
43(1  degree  of  lati- 

idth  of  the  Plateau. 

Mother  Mountain); 
\ndes  (the  Snowy 

,c  Cordilleras  from 
th  America!  The 
,  Plateau,  of  (3000. 
tion  from  southeast 
miles.     The  portion 

•y. 

•in<l  the  altitude  of 
having  its  extremi- 


ties within  the  equatorial  and  the  polar  zones ;  but  its  groate.st  breadth 
and  area  is  across  tlui  Isothermal  tempei'atc  zone.  Its  whole  western  front 
is  closely  flanked  by  the  Paeifio  Ocean;  its  ca.stern  front  by  the  (iiilf  of 
Mexico  and  the  Calcareous  Plain.  It  erects  it.self  continuously  along 
between  these,  and  either  connects  them  together  or  separates  them 
asunder. 

The  I'latiMu  has  a  general  configuration,  simple  as  a  unit  in  the  physi- 
cal geography  of  the  globe  ;  the  details  are  infinite  and  eomplicated,  all 
marked  by  a  grandeur  in  harmony  with  its  va.stue.ss.  In  the  elements 
which  attract  and  perpetuate  the  social  bust  of  civilized  men.  no  other 
region  can  assert  or  hold  communion  with  it.  It  denominates  as  a  stand- 
ard, which  can  have  no  ecpial. 

It  is  subdivided  into  seven  great  basins,  which  succeed  one  another  in 
order  from  the  south  towards  the  north.  The  basin  of  the  city  of  Mexico 
is  x\\ii  first  and  niosi  ...lown.  A  central  lake  collects  the  waters  of  the 
basin,  which  has  no  drainage  to  the  sea. 

The  secuiiif  liMsin  is  the  Bolson  de  Mapinii.  The  Laguna  d(!  Majiimi 
collects  its  waters,  and  is  also  unconnecti'd  with  the  sea.  Thesi!  basins 
are  divided  asunder  by  the  Sierra  of  Queretaro,  which  connects  the  Cor- 
dilleras acro.ss. 

The  flihd  is  the  basin  of  the  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte,  which  is  divided 
from  the  second  by  the  tran.sver.^e  mountain  chain  of  the  Ilio  Florida. 
Tills  innn(Uise  basin  is  drained  by  the  rivers  ])A  X(jrte,  Pecos,  and  Conchos, 
which,  uniting  against  the  Sierra  3Iadre,  gorge  it  by  a  canon  and  form 
below  the  Rio  Grande  of  the  Mexican  Gulf 

The_/o(';'^/(  is  the  basin  of  the  Colorado.  The  great  Sierra  Mimbres 
divides  these  two  basins  asunder  after  the  manner  of  a  backbone,  from 
which  their  waters  dt-scend  down  the  reverse  slopes.  They  are  longitu- 
dinal, ])arallel,  and  overlap  one  another.  Distinguished  by  stupenilous  vol- 
canic phenomena,  they  ])re-eminently  constitute  the  inrtolJifrroiii^  rf't/inii 
of  the  world.  The  cijnfluent  rivers  of  this  basin,  where  they  unite  to  form 
the  Colorado,  gorge  the  Andes  by  the  wonderful  canon  of  that  name,  and 
debouch  into  the  California  Gulf. 

Tile  ///!'/'  is  the  basin  of  the  Salt  Lake,  divided  from  the  itist  by  the 
great  Sierra  Wasatch.  Within  the  vast  circuit  of  its  mountain  rims  are 
contained  many  stagnant  lakes  receiving  rivers  of  fresh  water.  This  basin 
hius  no  outlet  to  the  sea. 

The  si.rfh  is  the  Itasin  of  the  Columbia.  The  transverse  chain  of  the 
Snake  River  Mountai'.is  parts  these  two  last  busins.  Here  is  .seen  a  n;.»st 
wonderful  display  of  natural  phenomena.  Tiie  Snake  and  Columijia  Rivera, 
coming  from  opposite  directions  and  penetrating  immense  mountains,  unite 


38 


THE  PLATEAU   OF  NORTH  AMEfllCA. 


together,  gorge  the  Audos  at  the  C'liseades,  and  debjuch  into  the  North 
Pacific  lUeean. 

Th<!  HiiTiifh  is  the  basin  (jf  Frazcr  River.  The  01ynij)ian  chain  divides 
it  from  the  Cohinibia.  From  henco  the  Phitear.  continues  its  direction 
through  a  region  as  yet  but  little  known,  and  opens  out  upon  the  I'olar 
Sea. 

If  a  thread  be  drawn  longitudinally  through  the  Plateau,  e(|uidistant 
from  the  Cordilleras,  it  will  bisect  a  line  oi'  sedimentary  lakes  resting  as 
in  the  bottom  of  a  trough.  These  are  the  Lake  of  jMexico,  the  Laguna, 
Gusman's  Lake,  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  the  Pend-oreilles  and  Okanagan 
lakes.  These  waters  have  an  average  elevation  of  (JU((((  feet  above  the 
sea.  The  whole  bulk  of  the  Plateau  has  then  the  altitude  of  a  primary 
mountaiii. 

If  the  stupendous  features  of  nature  are  allowed  their  solenniity  of 
impression,  atid  the  ni.ijestie  length  and  bulk  of  the  {\)rdillera!  be 
admitted,  we  may  now  understand  what  is  the  immense  subdivision  of  our 
iiintinent  enca,«ed  within  then.  We  may  receive  and  handle  it  as  a  unit, 
assign  to  it  a  name,  '•  The  Plateau,"  and  identify  its  extent,  its  distinct- 
ive profile  and  position. 

The  climate  of  the  Plateau  is  local  and  pectdiar,  but  very  uniform.  The 
Cordilleras,  by  their  altitude  and  remoteness  from  the  sea.  exclude  the 
ocean  vajiors  fmin  the  Plateau.  A  rainless  atmosphere,  ])erpetually  dry, 
tonic,  and  transparent,  is  the  normal  condition  throughout  the  year.  Alti- 
tude and  aridity  united,  teni])er  the  heat  towards  the  e(|uatorial  zont ;  the 
same  causes  temper  the  cold  towards  the  polar  zoiic.  The  extiemes  of 
tenij)erature  for  the  day  and  for  the  night  arc  great ;  lor  the  .seasotis  of 
the  year,  scarcely  ])erceptible.  In  one  word,  the  tempeniiure  is  uniforndy 
vtriial.  Thus  the  genial  and  propitious  climate  of  the  isothermal  tem- 
penite  zone  extends  up  and  down  the  sunnnit  of  the  Plateau,  and  is  felt 
to  both  extremities! 

The  soils  of  the  Plateau  are  of  the  highest  order  of  fertility,  alike  upon 
the  mountains,  the  valleys,  and  the  mesas  or  extensive  i)lains.  The  dry 
anil  serene  atmosjihere  converts  the  gras.ses  into  hay,  and,  preserving  them 
without  decay,  perpetuates  the  food  of  grazing  animals  around  he  year. 
This  gives  to  pasforai  agriculture  an  infinite  capacity  for  production  and 
superlative  excellence.  Meat  food,  leather,  wool,  fowls,  fi.sh,  and  dairy 
food  are  of  spontaneous  ])roduction. 

The  soils,  accuniulat<:d  from  the  attrition  and  decay  of  lava  and  of 
carboniferous  and  sidphurous  limestones,  possess  an  exuberant  fertility. 
Spots  of  arid  sands  are  K'W  and  insignificant ;  such  as  exist  are  from  the 
uuril'erous  granite,  and  contain  jilacfv-    «ii'  gold.      Thes^e  soils,  then,  com- 


TnE  PLATEAU   OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 


39 


into  the  North 


lie  of  a  primary 


posed  of  the  essential  elements  of  fertility  and  production,  and  warmed 
by  an  uiuluuded  sun,  need  only  irrigation  to  ferment  their  activity.  For 
this,  nature  has  i)rovided  in  the  configuration  of  the  surface  and  the  infinite 
abunchince  of  snowy  mountains,  of  streams  and  of  rivers  descending  from 
their  glaciers  or  bursting  from  their  flanks. 

The  descent  from  the  longitudinal  crests  of  the  mountain  ranges  to  the 
lowe.st  levels,  is  everyAvhere  by  terraces  or  steppes  arranged  agiiin.st  the 
mouutain  mass.  Across  these  are  channeled  the  gorges  of  the  descend- 
ing waters,  coming  from  the  gradually  melting  snows  above.  To  guide 
these  waters  out  upon  these  terraces  and  distribute  them  over  the  surface, 
involves  neither  excessive  labor  nor  intelligence.  It  is  understood  and 
practiced  by  the  aboriginal  people. 

The  laborious  systems  of  culture  to  provoke  germination,  the  uncertain 
yield  common  to  our  people  of  the  maritime  region  of  timber  and  uncer- 
tain seasons,  are  here  unknown  and  unnecessary. 

A  perpetual  sun  and  systematic  irrigation  (im  in  Egj-pt)  dispense  with 
laborious  manual  tillage ;  the  use  of  the  plow  is  not  indispensable :  the 
waters  for  irrigation  descend  Irom  a  higher  level  and  are  constant.  The 
laborious  extenuination  of  the  primeval  forest ;  fuel  and  refuge  from  the 
inclement  seasons  of  heat  and  cold  ;  periodical  and  uncertain  inflictions  of 
drought  and  saturatii)n ;  dependence  upon  an  atmosphere  ever  changing 
and  forever  fickle  and  treacherous ;  none  of  these  vicissitudes  are  seen  or 
known  upon  the  Plateau. 

The  adobe  brick,  of  unburned  clay,  constructs  fences  and  houses,  iidiabited 
more  for  domestic  .-leelusion  and  convenience  than  from  necessity. 

Upon  the  high  mountain  flanks,  within  the  influence  of  constant  spovt, 
exist  abundant  forests  with  the  rank  summer  grasses  and  vegetation ;  the 
proportion  of  these  is  ample  and  harmoniously  distributed.  The  Plateau 
presents  itself,  therefore,  prepared  and  ecpiipped  by  nature  in  all  depart- 
ments at  eviry  ])oint,  and  throughout  its  whole  lengtli,  for  the  immediate 
entrance  and  occupation  of  organized  society,  and  the  densest  population. 
Of  this  we  hav,'  an  absolute  illustration. 

It  is  where,  upon  the  terraces  surrounding  the  Oreat  Salt  Lake,  three  dec- 
ades of  years  have  de^'eloped  in  the  wilderness  a  powerful  people,  possessing 
in  practice  all  the  elements  of  mature  and  sta'ile  society  ;  moreover,  in  the 
ease  with  which  a  numerous  army  has  transported  and  sustiiined  itself, 
without  disaster  or  calamity,  at  the  same  remote  destination. 

Accessibility  on  to  the  Platiau  is  wonderfully  facile  and  unobstnicted 
over  a  tranquil  ocean  on  the  one  hand,  by  the  Great  Plains  on  the  other. 

Amidst  the  checkered  variety  which  distinguishes  the  surface  of  the 
Plateau,  the  most  systematic  order  is  discernible.     The  tran-sverse  moun- 


40 


THE  PLATEAU  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 


tain  chains  are  parallol  to  one  another.  They,  as  well  as  the  great  rivera, 
have  tlieir  eourses  due  north  and  south,  and  are  longitudinal  in  direction. 

The  only  excej)tion  is  Snake  Kiver,  and  the  Snake  Kiver  chain  of 
mountains.  They  exhibit  a  stupendous  display  of  volcanic  convulsions, 
extending  over  the  basin  of  the  Salt  Lake.  This  is  such  as  to  excite  the 
conviction  that  in  primeval  times  the  Blue  Mountains  of  Oregon  were 
unperforated,  and  between  them  and  the  Sierra  Wasatch  flowed  a  great 
river,  discharging  into  the  maritime  basin  of  C^difornia. 

If  this  were  so,  the  harmonious  contiguration  of  the  Plateau,  from  end 
to  end,  would  be  undeviating. 

The  great  mountain  chains,  six,  in  number,  enumerated  as  the  Sierra  of 
Queretaro,  of  the  Kio  Florida,  the  Sierra  Mimbres,  the  Sierra  AVasatch, 
the  Snake  Eiver  Mountains,  and  the  01yn\jiian  chain,  all  I'orm  continuous 
divides  across  from  one  Cordillera  to  the  other.  They  are  unperibrated 
by  any  running  waters,  and  block  ofl"  the  area  of  the  Plateau  into  the 
seven  isolated  basins  above  named. 

Other  mountain  masses,  branching  from  these  sienus,  protrude  far  out 
into  the  basins,  are  caj)ped  with  snow,  and  rival  them  in  bulk  and  altitude. 
Such  are  the  Sierra  La  Plata,  the  Humboldt  Mountains,  a!id  tlie  Blue 
Mountains  of  Oregon.  Spurs  and  minor  mountain  chains  appear  every- 
where. 

The  central  regions  of  the  basins  are  occupied  by  great  plains,  surround- 
ing the  sedlnicntavy  lakes,  or  forming  the  inmiense  troughs  of  the  rivers; 
\\c  purcH  are  amphitheatres  secluded  within  the  sierras,  around  the  sources 
of  the  great  rivers.  The  most  remarkable  are  the  Pare  of  San  Luis,  the 
Middle  Pare,  the  South  Pass,  and  the  Lava  Plain  of  Snake  lliver. 

Elsewhere  the  great  rivers  assault  the  flanks  of  the  sierras  and  gorge 
them  athwart,  traversing  them  by  profound  chasms,  and  foam  for  liun- 
dreds  of  miles  between  jjcrpendicular  walls  of  rock.  Such  caiions  are 
seen  upon  the  llio  del  Norte,  the  Colorado,  the  Snake  Kiver,  and  the 
Columbia,  especially  where  they  gorge  the  CordiHeras  to  reach  the  seas. 

Such  is  the  infinite  assemblage  of  mountains,  plains,  great  rivers,  in 
every  variety  and  nuignitude,  that  unite  themselves  to  form  the  immense 
area  of  the  Plateau  of  America  ! 

The  features  of  its  geology  arc  equally  various,  vast,  and  wonderful ; 
both  mountains  and  plains  promiscuously  ajipcar,  of  carboniferous  and 
sulphurous  limestones,  lava,  porphyritic  granite,  columnar  basalt,  obsidian, 
sandstone,  accompanied  by  their  appropriate  contents  of  precious  and 
base  metals,  jirecious  stones,  coal,  marbles,  earth,  thermal  and  medicinal 
streams  and  fountains ;  and  all  of  these  adorned  by  scenery  forever  vary- 
ing, fascinating,  and  sublime. 


THE   PLATEAU   OF  XOUTH  AMERICA. 


41 


For  agriculture,  both  jiiistoral  and  araljlo,  no  n'i:ion  of  tlie  world  is 
niort'  iiroj)iti()us,  not  even  the  Basin  of  the  Mi.ssi.ssii)i)i,  whiuli  is  by  its 
side.  One  remarkable  charactcvistie  pervades  idl  the  rivers:  their  waters 
are  supplied  (as  are  tliose  of  the  Nile)  from  the  high  mountains  whence 
they  descend.  Such  rivulets  as  abound  in  maritime  countries  are  not 
known,  but  subterranean  streams  burst  forth  and  again  disajjpear.  This 
systematic  feature  at  once  demonstrates  the  porous  nature  of  the  soils  and 
the  fertilizing  character  of  the  waters. 

To  revert  again  to  the  characteristic  climate  of  the  Plateau.  It  is  con- 
tinental as  contrasted  with  the  nmvithiie  climate's  of  regions  open  to  the 
iufluenc's  of  the  oceans  and  overflowed  by  their  clouds  and  vapors. 

The  Plateau  is  secluded  from  the  presence  of  these  clouds  and  vapors 
by  the  uninterrupted  envelope  of  the  CV)rdilleras,  surmounting  the  line  of 
pcriictual  snow.  These  clouds  and  vajiors  lodge  themselves  upon  the  sum- 
mits of  the  Cordilleras,  and  of  such  of  the  Sierras  as  have  suflQcient  alti- 
tude. From  these  the  rivers  are  fed  and  descend  to  traverse  the  lower 
altitudes,  and  upon  their  summit  are  observable  the  atmospheric  changes 
of  maritime  countries. 

Out  upon  the  Plateau  these  changes  do  not  reach.  Here  tlie  constant 
alternations  arising  from  rain-clouds  are  not  felt.  The  atmosphere  has  a 
perpetual  vernal  temperature,  unvarying,  rainless,  transparent,  splendid, 
and  serene. 

It  is  along  the  axis  of  the  isotherinal  temperate  zone  of  the  northern 
hemisphere  that  revealed  civilization  makes  the  circuit  of  the  globe. 
Here,  the  continents  expand ;  the  oceans  contract ;  this  zone  contains  the 
zodiac  of  empires  :  along  its  axis,  at  distances  scarcely  varying  from  one 
hundred  leagues,  appear  the  great  cities  of  the  world,  from  Pekin,  in 
China,  to  St.  Louis,  in  America. 

During  antiquity  this  zodiac  was  narrow  ;  it  never  expanded  beyond 
the  North  African  shore,  nor  beyond  the  Pontic  Sea,  the  Danube,  and 
the  llhine.  Along  this  narrow  belt,  civilization  planted  its  system  from 
Oriental  Asia  to  the  western  extremity  of  Europe,  with  a  more  or  less 
pel  feet  development.  3Iodern  times  have  recently  seen  it  widen,  to  embrace, 
with  an  imperfect  fire,  the  region  of  the  Baltic  Sea. 

In  America,  it  st:irts  with  the  broad  front  from  Cuba  to  Hudson's 
Bay.  As  in  all  previous  time,  it  advances  along  a  line  central  between 
these  extremes,  in  the  densest  form  and  with  the  greatest  celerity.  Here 
lire  tlie  chief  cities  of  intelligcTicc  and  power,  and  the  greatest  intensity 
of  energy  and  of  progre.«s. 

In  1S20,  this  middle  column  of  the  centre  had  reached  tiic  western 
frontier  of  Missouri,  and  ojiened  trails  along  to  the   Pacific  Sea;    the 


42 


THE  PLATEAU  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 


flanks  were  then  behind,  in  New  York,  Lower  Canada,  and  in  Gcnrpia. 
In  the  uverwhohninj:  revulsion  of  all  previous  political  jtreeedcnts,  which 
pervaded  our  Federal  councils  I'roni  181(i  to  182S,  atitniJ  ]>rojiress  was 
forcibly  interdicted.  Abruptly  stopped  by  an  Indian  barrier  and  Draconic 
code,  and  forced  to  recoil  for  forty  years,  the  flanks  have  come  up  to  an 
even  front  upon  the  rijjrht  and  upon  the  left. 

Science  has  recently  very  ])erfectly  established,  by  observation,  this  axh 
of  the  isothermal  temperate  zone.  It  reveals  to  the  world  this  .>^hining 
fact,  that  alonjr  it  civilization  has  traveled,  as  by  an  inevitable  instinct  of 
nature,  since  creation's  dawn.  Finm  this  line  has  radiated  intellijience  of 
mind  to  the  north  and  to  the  ■<oTith.  and  tmairds  it  all  people  have  strug- 
gled to  converge.  Thus,  in  harmony  with  the  supreme  order  of  nature, 
is  the  mind  of  man  instinctively  adjusted  to  the  revolutions  of  the  sun 
and  tempered  by  his  heat. 

Behold,  then,  in  the  geographical  position  and  features  of  the  J'fufcnu 
of  America,  a  crowning  mercy  and  a  miraculous  liglit  disjtiayed  by  God 
in  our  front,  to  illuminate  for  us  the  safe  line  of  march  and  the  whole  area 
of  expanding  empire ! 

The  central  column  of  progress  has  already  ascended  on  to  the  Plateau  by 
the  entrance  of  the  South  Pa.ss,  and  established  itself  on  the  fertile  terraces 
that  surround  the  Great  Salt  LaVe  ;  it  is  established  in  New  ]Mexico,  upon 
the  Upper  Del  Norte ;  it  prepares  to  enter  by  tli.  passes  of  Pike's  Peak 
and  the  Arkaasjia  into  the  delicious  pares  that  surround  the  gold  region 
of  the  San  Juan  ;  it  is  upon  the  Columbia  and  Frazer  Rivers  ;  it  has  al,«o 
passed  over  the  Cordillera  of  the  Andes,  and  it  presents  itself  fronting  to 
the  east  and  entering  from  California. 

Such  is  the  Pluteau  q/*^l?H^r/r<;,  transcendent  in  jiosition,  immense  in 
area,  superlative  in  climate,  fertility,  and  variety  of  configuration. 

Here  are  blended  all  the  elements  which  distinguish  the  other  plateaux 
of  the  world.  Its  longitudinal  form  ;  the  rainless  character  and  ])ereiinial 
brilliancy  of  atmosphere  ;  its  perpetual  vernal  temperature  ;  its  alternate 
basins,  ])arcs,  and  snowy  sierras ;  its  great  rivers ;  its  indefinite  and  pro- 
pitious capacity  to  produce  and  to  sustain  population ;  its  gold,  metals, 
and  gems ;  finally,  its  dimiinant  position,  beetling  over  the  Asiatic  ocean 
on  the  one  hand,  over  the  Calcareous  Plains  on  the  other  hand,  continu- 
ously from  the  Polar  Sea  to  the  equatorial  belt.  These  all  arise  succes- 
sively and  together  to  announce  to  the  American  people  their  accession  to 
the  most  attractive,  the  most  wonderful,  and  the  mo.st  powerful  de]iartment 
of  their  continent,  of  their  country,  and  of  the  whole  area  of  the  globe. 

But  the  Plateau  has  the  prestige  of  antitpiity  to  commend  it  to  favor. 
It  was  liere  that  Cortez  and  the  conquerors  found  the  gorgeous  empire  of 


THE  PLATEAU  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 


43 


tlie  jMuntczuHiiis !  a  polished  people,  highly  cultivated,  numbering  many 
niilliiinM,  and  martyrs  to  their  lieroic  devotion  to  the  arts  of  peace !  The 
.siuie  marked  characteristics  still  show  themselves  undiminished  in  the 
existing  aboriginal  people,  thinly  scattered  to  the  extreme  north ;  curious, 
intelligent,  and  credulous,  heroic  and  timid,  vibrating  quickly  from  super- 
stitious veneratio:>  to  despair. 

They  invite  and  receive  the  white  man  as  a  new  divinity,  and  then 
recoil,  to  shun  him  with  hate  implacable  till  death. 

This  is  my  understanding  of  the  Plateau  of  America,  condensed  to  a 
general  but  a  compact  view.  At  my  first  entrance  upon  it  in  1843,  my 
impressions  were  far  otherwise.  Everywhere  appeared  novel  phenomena ; 
nature  wore  an  impenetrable  complexity  of  features  alternately  fantastic, 
sublime,  bizarre,  and  incomprehensible. 

Time,  reiterated  exploration,  study,  and  meditation,  have  revealed  it  to 
me  as  it  is, — in  architecture  transcendent,  in  an:itoiny  symmetrical  and  con- 
sistent in  every  detail.  It  is  necessary  to  ponder  long  before  we  may  pene- 
trate the  deep  designs  of  Providence,  or  be  permitted  to  comprehend  the 
austere  and  perfect  order  with  which  natuvc  is  everywhere  replete. 


hi 


CHAPTER   IV. 


THE   SIERRA   SAN   JUAN. 


i 


To  command  the  gold  and  silver  production  of  the  world,  and  combine 
this  with  an  intelligent  policy,  is  to  rule  the  world.  The  present  ability 
of  the  American  people  to  do  this,  will  become  manifest  so  soon  as  the 
geography  of  the  North  American  continent  shall  become  correctly  under- 
stood by  tliem,  ar.d  its  economical  development  made  a  systematic  policy. 
A  few  standard  facts  in  physical  geography  and  geology  being  currently 
grafted  in  to  guide  the  popular  mind,  the  ease  with  which  the  people  of 
America  will  rise  to  the  pinnacle  of  power  and  empire,  and  the  necessity 
inc'imbent  upon  them  to  do  so,  become  both  simple  and  luminous  of 
comprehension. 

I  have  in  a  former  chapter  defined  to  itself  the  "  Great  Plateau  of  the 
Table  Lands,"  and  enumerated  the  primary  mountain  chains,  the  rivers, 
and  the  elevated  basins  (seven  in  number)  which  checker  its  immense  area. 
This  whole  aroa,  together  with  the  great  flanking  Cordilleras,  is  of  the 
primeval,  auiiferous  formation.  Although  immense  sa-idstone  and  cal- 
careous formations  are  frequent,  and  elsewhere  igneous  rocks  have  over- 
flowed thousands  of  square  miles,  these  overlay  a  luiiform  pediment  of 
porphyritic  granite,  as  uniformly  yielding  gold. 

The  primeval  gold-bearing  formation,  therefore,  very  equally  divides  the 
area  of  the  continent,  half  and  half,  with  the  calcareous  formation,  which 
latter  abounds  with  the  base  metals.  Thus,  within  the  present  tfritorics 
of  the  American  people,  the  precious  stones  and  precious  metals,  pla.inum, 
gold,  silver,  quicksilver,  exist  in  tl:e  im  yet  partially  deveit  (i^l  aalf,  with 
the  same  abundance  and  universality  ofdistrilution  as  do  tl  .  ^'ate  metals, 
minend  fuel,  and  calcareous  rocks,  within  the  States. 

Investigation  within  "  the  great  calcareous  plain"  has  so  far  progressed, 
that  we  trace  along  its  diagontd  axis  a  metallif 'lous  band  traversing  con- 
tinuously from  the  neighborlniod  of  Mior,  en  the  Kio  Bravo  del  Norte,  to 
the  junction  of  Coppermine  IJivcr  with  the  Arctic  Sea. 

This  band,  reseuibliiig  a  .-word-belt  suspended  from  the  shoulder  and 
knotted  upon  the  hip,  faver.^cs  Texas  in  a  direction  ni'rth-nortlicast ; 
crosses  Arkansas  .-'.ud  iSuuthcrn  MiH:«ouri  diagonally  ;  Noitliern  Illinois, 
44 


THE  SIERRA   SAX  JUAN. 


45 


rid,  and  combine 
le  present  ability 
3t  so  soon  tis  the 
>  correctly  under- 
jystenuitic  policy. 
^  being  currently 
ich  tb.e  people  of 
and  the  necessity 
and  luminous  of 

at  Plateau  of  the 
ha  ins,  the  rivers, 
it^  immense  area, 
ddleras,  is  of  the 
idstone  and  cal- 
rocks  have  over- 
inn  pediment  of 

quilly  divides  the 
formaUon,  which 

present  tcritories 
melals,  plaanum, 

,xu  ["  'I  half,  with 

lo  tl  :  'xii-e  metals, 

;o  far  progressed, 

id  traversing  con- 

avo  del  Norte,  to 

the  shoulder  and 

1   iKirth-iiortheiuit ; 
Xdrtlieni   lUiiiois, 


Wisconsin,  and  Minnesota,  and,  brusliiiig  the  extreme  shores  of  Lake 
Superior  and  Hudson's  Bay,  sinks  into  the  Arctic  Sea  near  the  Magnetic 
Pole. 

Everywhere  within  this  band  the  calcareous  rocks  and  soils  are  )iemie- 
iiteJ  with  veins  and  native  masses  of  the  base  metals,  existing  in  a  pleni- 
tudi'  and  purity  .  ufficient  to  snjiply  the  world  forever.  AVhat  is  seen  and 
known  upon  the  .'iiirface,  indicates  a  sy.stcmatic  order  throughout  in  the 
relative  jto.sitions  of  the  dift'crent  metals  and  their  accompanying  rocks  and 
earths,  as  also  in  the  localities  where  each  exists  in  excess  and  may  be 
said  to  culminate. 

Thus  in  the  State  of  Misi^ouri  iron  appears  protruding  above  the  general 
level,  over  an  immense  area,  attracting  extlu&ive  attention  and  the  appella- 
tion of  Iron  Mountains,  by  reason  of  the  immense  formation  of  this  metal, 
which  displays  itself  for  many  hundred  sfjuarc  miles  above  and  below  the 
surface,  la  mass  miu  In  ponltion.  '"Jojiiier  may  likewise  be  said  to  cul.ni- 
nate,  where  it  displays  itself  around  the  extreme  waters  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, in  mam  and  in  position.  Thus  likewise  of  lead,  where  it  appears 
in  indefinite  abundainte  by  itself,  in  Wisconsin,  Misi^ouri,  and  Arkansas. 

Tbe  existence  nf  tiu-  base  nu'tals  of  native  jmrity  in  ?«a.s.<  mid  in  pnsifion, 
on  an  imnu'n.^i!  scale  and  within  the  calcareous  fovnuition  of  the  basins  of 
the  Mississippi  and  St.  Lawrence,  is  now  become  established.  Tbe  ques- 
tion arises,  tberi.forc,  whether  there  exists  within  the  primeval  formation 
any  jarallel  phenomenon,  or  any  possibility  of  the  existence,  accessible  to 
hu  Man  research,  of  tiie  precious  stones,  of  gold,  silver,  and  tlie  kindred 
j.rccious  rif^tals,  in  mass  and  in  position. 

Tiie  po.ssibility,  and,  even  more,  the  prohability  of  .such  a  develojimcnt 
resulting  from  persevering  exploration  among  the  sieiras  of  the  Plateau 
of  the  Table  Lands,  becomes  distinct  as  their  geological  configuration  is 
'  evealed, 

We  have  seen,  in  a  former  chapter,  that  the  Cordillera  of  the  Sierra 
Madre  presents  within  our  territory  tW(.>  ri'inarkable  foca)  culminations, — 
the  one  grouped  around  the  Wind  River  ^lountain,  the  other  surrounding 
Pike's  Peak.  These  are  about  four  hundred  miles  apart;  th^y  are  con- 
nected by  the  continuous  chain  of  the  Cordillera,  as  by  a  curtain. 

Either  one,  contenijdated  by  itself,  fills  the  same  significant  place  upon 
our  contiuent,  as  does  the  Alpine  gror;-  surrounded  by  tin;  kingdoms  of 
Europe,  in  the  topography  of  that  continent.  A  parallel  altitude,  grander 
bulk,  larger  rivers,  the  sublimest  scenery,  a  rainless  atmosphere,  and  a 
foundation  of  bro.'ub'r  and  more  •iriHddini'iisions,  distinguish  our  'ontinent. 

T<i  all  who  a..LH>nd  tlie  gre:'.t  phans  in  the  iwighborhood  of  the  39th 
degree  of  latitude,  tbe  snow-crested  mu.-s  of  Pike's  Peak,  15,000  feet  in 


'li! 


1 

1? 


,'M 


r^'  N  c.  ■'-  -  -  *, 


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y 
\*.. 


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<////'/  //ff  fffiihii/Ktiis  c/ffi rr/ Nit/ 
MARITIME     SELVAGE. 


II. 


40 


THE  SIERIiA   SAX  JVAN. 


altiludo,  and  seen  at  a  (listaiiec  of  10(»  miles  from  its  base,  is  a  prominent 
object.  Tliis  iKiik  beetles  over  the  jilains,  jirotrutlinfiout  as  a  promontory 
froni  (lie  Ciinlillera.  with  whieh  it  in  fiijrnif'ted  by  an  elevateil  ri(l^:e. 

Krimi  tlie  nnrthirn  flank  nl'  this  ridjru  det^cend  the  waters  of  tlie  t^outh 
I'latte.  which,  first  forniinj:  the  Pun;  of  the  liaynu  Sntddo,  flow  out  into 
the  plains  to  the  northeast ;  from  the  southern  flank  descends  the  Arkan- 
sas, which  defiles  by  a  cailon  and  issues  forth  into  the  plains  towards  the 
siiuthcast,  The  Cordillera,  from  whoso  eastern  flanks  both  of  these  rivers 
descend,  curving  towards  the  east,  divides  asunder  the  waters  of  tlie  two 
great  rivers,  the  Arkansas  and  the  Kio  Bravo  del  Norte.  From  the  west- 
ern bank  (jf  the  Curdillera,  opposite  to  Pike's  Peak,  j)rotrudcs  similarly 
aninimcn.se  mountain  iiru-nontory  toward  the  .south  ;  this  is  the  SlEKKA 
San  JlAN,  the  local  name  jjiven  to  the  northern  culmination  of  the  Sierra 
Minibres. 

The  Sierra  Mimbres,  departing  from  the  Cordillera  under  the  39th 
degree  of  latitude,  traverses  diagonally  athwart  the  Taltle  Lands,  having  a 
due  southern  courae.  It  joins  the  western  Cordillera  in  the  Mexican  State 
of  Durango,  in  latitude  23°  30'.  Its  course  coincides  with  the  109th 
meridian.  It  is  1200  miles  in  length.  It  is  a  continuous  mountain  mass, 
dividing  the  Kio  Bravo  del  Norte  from  the  great  Rio  Colorado.  The 
immense  basins  of  these  rivers  rest  against  it  as  a  backbone. 

The  Sierra  Mimbres  is  a  mountain  chain  of  the  first  order  in  length, 
massiveness,  and  altitude.  It  is  entirely  within  the  area  of  the  Platea  uf 
the  Table  Lands.  It  abounds  in  volcanic  phenomena  and  pedrigals  of 
lava.  Its  eastern  bank  is  scored  by  canons  descending  to  the  Del  Norte ; 
its  western  flank,  by  the  affluents  of  the  Colorado.  The  variety  and  gran- 
deur of  iN  geological  features  and  metalliferous  qualities  surpass  all  other 
mountains.     It  produces  the  precious  stones. 

Within  the  States  of  Chihuahua  and  Durango  its  flanks  are  mined  for 
silver,  and  contain  twenty-one  known  deposits  of  that  metal,  which  for 
three  cetituriet;  have  supplied  the  silver  and  silver  coin  to  the  world.  But 
the  labors  of  the  Spaniards  have  not  penetrated  beyond  the  Gila  River. 
It  is  the  poraon  north  of  this  river  and  within  our  territories  which  is 
most  interesting. 

Throughout  the  whole  system  of  the  Andes,  it  is  upon  the  plateaux 
and  high  mountain  flanks  that  mining  is  profitably  pursued.  Such  is  the 
fact  in  Chili,  Peru,  Brazil,  and  Mexico.  It  is  upon  the  Plateau  of  the 
Table  Lands  within  our  territories  that  the  metallic  resources  chiefly 
abound. 

The  whole  system,  then,  of  primeval  mountains,  occupying  the  western 
half  of  the  New  World,  is  uniformly  auriferous.    It  is  where  the  mountain 


THE  SIERRA   SAX  JVAS. 


47 


siuiiniit  ftprendH  out  to  cnibruce  the  jiro(lij.'iu\i»  oxpnnso  of  the  three  con« 
tiiruiius  imtuiitaiii  bawiiis  of  the  Del  Norte,  C'dloriulo,  and  SaU  Ijiike,  that 
till'  iiitcriiiil  Vdli-aiiie  powers  of  the  globe  exhibit  their  effects  upon  the 
iiKWt  stupoiiilou.s  scale, 

Friiiii  this  pediment,  haviiifr  an  altitude  of  70()()  feet,  rise  the  two  bisect- 
ing: mountain  chains  of  the  plateau,  the  Sierra  Mimbrcs  and  the  Sierra 
Wasatch,  by  which  it  is  subdivided  into  these  three  specified  elevated 
liasins.  This  immense  expanse  of  continent,  presenting;  a  unilurm  mass 
of  the  elevated  auriferous  rocks,  places  the  equally  prand  abumlance  of 
the  precious  metals  beyond  conjecture  and  above  doubt. 

Hut  the  Rio  Colorado  gathers  into  its  one  channel  the  larfre  rivers 
within  its  basin,  namely,  the  Ilio  Verde,  the  Rio  Grande  of  the  West,  the 
Eagle,  Dolores,  and  San  Juan  Rivers.  It  launches  its  whole  force  against 
the  interior  flank  of  the  western  Cordillera,  perforates  this  Cordillera  by  a 
ciinon,  tunnelled  diagonally  for  557  miles  through  the  very  roots  of  tho 
mountain  mass,  and  reaches  the  ocean  at  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  California. 

It  is  this  solitary  fact  in  physical  geograpliy,  new  to  human  research,  and 
of  transcendent  interest,  that  here  arrests  and  fixes  the  attention  of  every 
mind.  The  dorsal  mass  of  the  Andes,  thus  perforated  through  from  base 
to  base,  and  athwart  its  course,  by  a  river  of  the  first  magnitude,  is  formed, 
to  its  snowy  summit,  of  the  upheaved  auriferous  and  igneous  rocks  f 

Nowhere  else  throughout  tho  globe  has  nature  waged  so  stern  a  conflict, 
nor  are  similar  phenomena  elsewhere  seen.  Upon  the  other  continents, 
great  rivers  are  seen  descending  from  the  flanks  of  primeval  mountains, 
and  gorging  their  outflanking  spurs ;  here  only  is  this  universal  law  of 
nature  defied,  and  the  arcana  of  the  inn.'^r  world  revealed,  surrounded  by 
details  of  the  austerest  sublimity. 

Such  is  one  of  the  stupendous  novelties  of  our  own  mountain  forma- 
tion, which  arrests  tho  attention  and  summons  the  enthusiasm  of  science 
and  the  energetic  ambition  of  our  people.  Nature  here  abounds  in  a 
vast  variety  of  formatioP3,  '^ajh  upon  the  same  miraculous  scale,  and  all 
sublime. 

Volcanoes,  whose  flames  and  eruptions  appear  to  have  ceased  but  yes- 
terday; immense  plains  of  aelem'te,  fringed  with  fantastic  mountains, 
called  cristones  (pendent  cockscombs)  ;  mesas,  surmounted  by  prairie 
plains  of  wonderful  fertility ;  vast  regions  of  forest  upon  the  irrigated 
mountain  flanks ;  crests  of  perennial  snows ;  pares  of  secluded  and 
romantic  beauty,  having  a  perpetual  verdure,  and  the  temperature  of  per- 
petual spring;  canons,  incagcd  by  perpendicular  mountain  walls  of  roseate 
sandstone,  wrought  by  corrosion  into  every  form  of  sculpture ;  mountains 
permeated  with  broad  veins  of  gold  and  silver ;  others  having  emeralds 


48 


THE  SI  Ell  HA    S.\X  J  VAX. 


and  tho  riibv  ;  f|uicksilvcr  is  known  to  giisli  forth  and  deposit  its  globul(« 
in  t'lc  r(uif:li  meadows,  ealled  '■'•  s'.cmirkas." 

Tliennal  streams  of  all  varieties  of  sanatory  waters  burst,  as  subterra- 
nean rivers,  from  Ixiicath  the  ovcrhanginfj:  peaks  and  mcsfis  ;  niduntains 
of  porphjTV  and  of  rock  salt  an  numerous  ;  vast  niouiitain  ehains  (tf  car- 
liniiifernus  limestone,  ehaniiiuir  tbroufrh  all  variefi"..  of  the  richest  marbles ; 
iron  is  I'ound  in  moimtain  ma.sses ;  copper  is  scarcely  less  abundant. 

Petrifii-tions,  obsidian,  <-arnelians,  agates,  and  chalcedony  pave  immen.9e 
regions.  Fuel  of  coal  develops  itself  in  beds  of  unrivalled  extent,  depth, 
and  conipactiiess ;  caves  sparkling  with  transparent  frescoes  of  crystallized 
selenite. 

An  abundant  flora  of  the  most  delicate  forms,  colors,  and  fragrance ;  a 
perennial  pasturage,  overrunning  the  mountain  flanks  and  sunnnits,  on 
whicli  millions  of  aboriginal  cattle  subsi.st  round  the  year,  as  tisb  wilhin 
the  sea;  a  i'at  fert.lity  in  the  soil,  at  once  uniform  and  universal;  rivers, 
streams,  and  fountains,  absolutely  inhnite  in  number  and  of  miraculous 
convenience  and  distribution. 

Over  all  this  nether  world,  so  checkered  with  a  gorgeous  variety  of 
forms  and  jiroductions,  both  upon  the  surface  and  beneath,  floats  the  aerial 
atmosphere,  shining  with  a  perpettial  .'ipicii  lor  unknown  in  regioIl^=  of  less 
altitude  and  less  remoteness  from  the  sea.  ])ry,  tonic,  and  exhilarating 
to  the  taste,  infused  with  the  direct  solar  warmtli,  filtered  through  the 
ether  that  surmounts  the  atmo.'siilierie  vapors,  the  embalming  atmosjibere 
t'v  t"  :dl  nature  with  a  silvery  splendor,  constantly  shining,  and  constantly 
»  ene. 

The  night.T  have  an  opposite,  jienetrating  coolness  when  th"  solar  rays 
are  withdrawn  and  his  direct  beams  are  (juenched  ;  the  canopy  of  resplen- 
dent stars  has  a  parallel  sublimity  with  the  day ;  the  transparency  of  the 
utinosphereand  its  serenity  are  the  same. 

Klectrif  storms,  short  in  duration  and  at  long  intervals,  periodically 
renew  the  irrig.iting  snows  upon  the  niountains,  refresh  the  air,  temper  its 
dryness,  and  restore  the  rivers. 

Why  those  busim  and  sierras  of  the  Plateau  should  be  especially  metal- 
liferous, becomes  evident  ])y  reference  to  a  few  radical  principles  of  geo- 
logical research.  If  ((uicksilver.  water,  oil,  and  alcohol  be  poured  into  a 
hollow  pil!ar  of  gla.ss,  these  licpiids  will  subside,  according  to  their  specific 
gravities,  into  iayei-s  in  the  ..bove  order.  If  gold,  iron,  wood,  and  feathers 
be  thrown  in,  ihey  will  similarly  sink,  the  gold  to  the  bottom,  the  iron  to 
the  (|ui(ksilver.  the  wood  to  the  water,  the  leathers  to  the  oil. 

If  this  eobinip  becomes  solid  by  congelation,  the  .same  arrangement  will 
remain,  the  gold  being  sedimentary  to  all,  the  iron  beneath  the  stratum 


THE  SIEIillA    SAX  JUA.X. 


49 


t  its  <ilobul(« 


of  frozen  water,  the  wood  beneath  the  oil.  Everybody  is  familiar  with 
tlie  manufacture  of  shot ;  each  globule  of  liquid  lead  precipitated  through 
the  air  is  formed,  by  gravity,  into  a  sphere. 

The  globe  of  the  earth,  8000  miles  in  diameter,  is  similarly  formed,  the 
congealing  substances  arranging  them-selves,  as  the  shells  of  an  onion,  from 
the  centre  outward,  according  to  their  several  specific  gravities. 

I  have  often  boiled  rice  in  an  open  camp-kettle,  when  traversing  the 
mountains  and  my  daily  march  was  done ;  the  rice  finally  subsides  in 
mass  to  the  bottom,  but  the  water  remains  of  a  milky  whiteness.  This 
whiteness  is  caused  by  minute,  buoyant  particles  of  rice,  of  altered  specific 
gravity,  suspended  throughout  the  water ;  congelation  into  ice  fixes  in 
solid  form  both  the  mass  beneath  and  the  suspended  particles. 

This  homespun  illustration  makes  clear  the  cause  of  the  diffusion  of 
grain-gold  throughout  the  auriferous  rocks.  To  be  found  in  nuigx  and  in 
position,  it  must  be  sought  sedimentary,  beneath  these  rocks.  All  that 
we  have  as  yet  found  is  granular,  in  scales  or  minute  lumps,  set  free  froir. 
the  upper  rocks  by  disintegration  or  corrosion,  and  descending  the  moun- 
tain flanks  with  the  sands  abraded  by  the  torrents. 

But  we  have  seen  that  the  Cordilleras  and  the  Sierras  of  the  Plateau 
are  formed  of  the  auriferous  rocks  broken  from  their  horizontal  beds  and 
the  edges  vertically  upheaved  some  two  or  three  miles  in  altitude  ;  more- 
over, the  Cordillera  of  the  Andes  is  gorged  athwart  its  roots  by  the  cafion 
of  the  Rio  Colorado.  Is  it  not,  then,  possible — even  probable — that 
sufficient  exploration  may  here  reveal  to  the  miner  the  precious  metals 
in  mass  and  in  jyositiori  ? 

The  scientific  writers  of  our  country  adhere  with  unanimity  to  the  dog- 
matic location  somewhere  of  ^^  a  great  North  American  desert.'  Trav- 
el lers,  under  their  promptings,  especially  search  for  it.  It  has  been  located 
sei-iatim  in  advance  of  the  settlements,  in  Kentucky,  in  the  Northwest, 
ill  ^Fi.ssouri,  upon  the  Plains,  in  California.  No  explorer  or  witness  who 
hat  failed  to  find  a  desert  is  allowed  credence  or  fame. 

Yet  there  is  none,  either  in  North  or  South  America  ;  nor  is  the  exist- 
ence of  one  possible.  On  the  contrary,  the  least  fertile  portion  of  our  con- 
tinent is  the  silicions  maritime  slope  of  the  Atlantic  States,  whose  climate 
is  .'  iso  the  most  inhospitable.  Yet  here  is  no  desert,  and  none  anywhere 
else  exists.  This  dogmatic  mirnffe  has  lately  receded  from  the  basin  of 
the  Salt  Lake ;  it  is  about  to  be  expelled  from  its  last  resting-place,  the 
basin  of  the  Colorado. 

The  anatomy  of  a  dwarf  or  an  infant  is  identical  with  the  anatomy  of  a 
giani.  The  details  and  relative  proportions  are  the  same.  Habituated  to 
a  common  medium  standard,    it  is  the  size  which  is  marvellous  to  us. 


li 


50 


rilF  SIEIillA    SAN  JUAX. 


Our  senses  are  bewildered  by  tlie  novelty ;  our  judf^inents  wander — ^but 
the  object  seen  is  a  reality. 

To  antiquity — even  to  t'.e  modern  day  of  Columbus — the  Atlantic 
Ocean  was  a  mysterious  abyss,  an  impenetrable  Tartarus.  By  degrees  the 
field  of  the  eye  expands,  the  mind  dilates,  fact  by  fact  is  .surmounted,  as 
an  acclivity  is  made  ea.sy  by  a  stairway.  The  miraye  is  dissolved,  the 
higher  standard  is  reached,  grows  familiar,  is  approved,  and  is  firmly 
embraced. 

It  is  to  European  minds  that  we  owe  the  as  yet  elementary  sciences  of 
physical  gcogra]>hy  and  geology.  The  founders  of  these  sciences  have 
reared  them  by  hiving  the  slowly-developed  details  of  nature,  collected  by 
exhausting  patience  within  the  small  basins  surrounding  the  cities  of  their 
residences. 

Thu  within  the  small  basins  of  the  Thames,  the  Seine,  the  Arno ; 
upon  the  flanks  of  the  Alps,  the  Apennines ;  in  Calabria,  and  around 
Fingals  Cave,  have  heretofore  been  found  the  most  popular  illustrations 
to  nurse  the  infancy  of  these  sciences. 

More  than  si.xty  yeare  of  intense  meditation  has  inspired  the  cosmo- 
politan genius  of  IIi'.AiiJOLDT  to  scan  the  terrestrial  globe  with  an  expanded 
vision.  He  only  has  s])oken  worthily  of  America  to  her  own  peojjle.  In 
him  we  recognize  the  intrepid  pioneer  who  invites  us  to  understand  the 
gigantic  proportions  of  our  own  great  country,  its  order,  its  s^ynimctry,  and 
itx  grand  simidicity  of  configuration. 

As  Columbus  led  forth  navigation  and  commerce,  from  its  lengthened 
tutelage  in  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  to  expand  itself  over  all  the  oceans  and 
to  every  continental  and  every  island  shore;  so  now,  this  venerable  pioneer 
of  phj-sical  science  and  the  arts,  marshals  us  on  to  penetrate  the  arcatin 
of  the  land,  to  fit  .society  to  the  broad  foundation  of  the  continents,  and 
rear  a  comity  ol"  civilization  coe([ual  with  the  globe. 

It  is  in  Europe  that  CoLUMnus  and  IIu.mbo'.dt  have  had  their  nativity 
and  their  residence.  It  is  for  America  that  t.i^y  have  lived  ;  to  us  they 
belong  ;  apostolic  citizens  of  our  destiny  ! 

The  area  of  the  department  of  the  Platrnti  of  the  Tahh  Land,  embracing 
the  three  elevated  basins  of  the  Salt  Ijake,  the  Colorado,  and  the  Rio  Bravo 
del  Norte,  is  ef|uivalent  to  France.  Austria,  Switzerland,  and  Cisalpine 
Italy  combined  ;  its  rivers  are  equal  to  the  Danube,  Rhine.  Rhono,  and 
Po  :  its  metalliferous  mountains  are  pre-eminent  in  bulk,  number,  and 
granileur. 

In  rcadiiivss  to  receive  and  ability  to  sustain  in  perpetuity  a  dense 
|io])ulation.  it  is  more  favored  than  Kurope.  Fertility  of  soil  of  the  high- 
est order  is  the  dominant  and  unil'orm  characteristic  of  this  immense 


THE  iilEUHA   SAX  JViN. 


51 


wander — ^but 


region.  The  mouni-iins  are  rarely  abrupt  or  rugged.  Tliov  are  sur- 
mounted by  mesas,  descending  by  giijantic  terraces  called  tiwuMiK.  The 
densely  crystalline  primeval  rock'*  yield  but  slightly  to  atmospheric  corro- 
sion in  the  regnlarity  of  a  continental  climate  and  seclusion  from  the  sea. 
It  is  the  decay  of  lava,  selcnite,  and  carboniferou.xlinu stone  ilmt  forms  the 
soil. 

The  pastoral  fertility  is  developed  by  nature,  which  sustain*  its  aborigi- 
nal herds  as  fish  in  the  rivers  and  in  the  sea.  The  arable  fertility  needs 
the  care  of  man,  and  awaits  the  economical  development  of  artificial  irri- 
gation. For  the  reception  of  this  system,  the  whole  structure  and  contour 
of  the  surface  is  fitted,  and  the  natural  waters  abundant. 

Reflection  will  recfdl  to  memory  the  magnificent  empires  of  peopie. 
possessing  a  highly-advanced,  but  imperfectly-organized,  civilization, 
found  established  along  the  .summit  of  this  Plateau,  con(|nered  by  Ct)RTEZ. 
.•Vlvau.vdo,  and  1'izarro.  On  the  summit  of  the  Southern  Andes,  in 
Chili.  Peru,  and  around  Quito,  on  the  Northern  Andt's.  in  Central 
America,  and  Mexico,  dwelt  twenty  millions  of  popnlati,)n  in  the  aggreg-ate. 

Three  centuries  of  subjugation  have  dwarfed  this  aboriginal  people  to 
one-half  of  their  original  numbers,  and  radically  altered  their  religion, 
their  lancruasje.  and  traditional  manners.  Tliev  have  touched  the  lowe.«'t 
point  of  decadence,  from  which  they  will  again  slowly  ascend. 

This  peojile  had  no  fixed  science  in  physics,  religion,  or  politics,  to  prop 
and  protect  their  system  from  the  shocks  of  time;  no  na'igation.  no  prin- 
ciple of  perpetuity.  Tlu..«e  have  now  come  to  them  with  the  EiirojH'at! 
column,  bringing  with  it  the  ark  of  regeneration.  The  peciUiar  agricul- 
tural and  social  sy.stem  of  the  Mexicans  under  the  Montezunias,  extended 
up  the  basin  of  the  Rio  Bravo  dci  \ort«'  to  the  ba.se  of  the  Sierra  San 
Juan.  Our  people  are  marching  to  the  same  |  oint  fnnn  an  opposite  diiec- 
tion,  bringing  with  them  the  social  habits  of  the  isothermal  zone  and  a 
maritime  climate. 

I  have  spoken  of  this  remarkable  focal  culmination  of  f  lie  Eastern  Cor- 
dillera, fronnvhich  two  snowy  promontories  protrude,  back  to  back  ;  Pikes 
Peak  to  the  northeast  beetles  over  and  subsides  into  the  Plains;  the 
Sierra  San  Juan,  to  the  south,  beetles  over  the  Plateau,  and  subsides  into 
the  Sierra  Mimbres. 

Radiant  mountains  and  streams  diverge  from  this  point  in  every  direc- 
tion, and  form  abundant  pas.ses,  direct  and  practicable,  to  and  fro,  betwet-n 
the  basin  of  the  Missisisipjii  and  the  Plateau.  The  three  reniarkable  purrs 
— the  Middle  Pare,  the  Rayou  Salado.  and  the  Mayou  San  T.uis — all 
approach  close  together  the  dividing  crest  of  the  Easti'rn  Cordillera,  over 
whoso  summit  they  imujedialely  communicate. 


i 


52 


THE  SIERRA    SA\  JVAS. 


I  know  not  hew  adequaU;ly  to  delineate  this  knotted  group  of  all  the 
colossal  elements  of  nature.  To  subujit  the  unenibellislied  facts  is  all  that 
is  necessary,  were  this  possible,  where  the  elements  in  "ompact  contiguity 
are  so  many,  so  varied,  and  each  of  such  colossal  granuour.  To  exag- 
gerate is  far  from  my  intention ;  to  enumerate  the  detiiiis  t)f  nature,  as  I 
have  seen  them,  with  austere  simplicity,  is  my  aim. 

Heboid,  then,  to  the  right,  the  Mississippi  Basin;  to  the  left,  the  Plateau 
of  the  Table  Lands  ;  beneath,  the  family  of  Pares  ;  around,  the  radiating 
backs  of  the  primeval  mountains  ;  the  primary  rivers,  starting  to  the  seas; 
a  uniform  elevation  of  8(MI()  feet;  a  translucent  atmosphere,  a  thousand 
miles  removed  from  the  ocean  and  its  influences ;  a  checkered  landscape, 
in  which  no  clcnunt  of  sublimity  is  left  oat ,  fertility  and  food  upon  the 
surface  ;  metals  beneath  ;  uninterrupted  facility  of  transit ! 

Behold  the  sublime  panorama  which  crowns  the  middie  region  of  our 
Union,  fans  the  fire  of  patriotism,  and  beckons  on  the  energetic  host  of 
our  people.  The  American  j>eople  number  fifty  millions  in  strength.  Two 
millions  change  annually  tb.eir  place  of  residence.  The  oracular  instinct 
of  conquest  burns  in  every  heart ;  this  is  the  continental  mission  of  '7ti, 
proclaimed  from  the  traditions  of  Jamestown  and  of  Plymouth  Rock,  and 
thence  becjueathed  to  posterity  ! 

The  column  of  pioneers  (engaged  during  several  years  in  planting  the 
St^ite  of  the  Kansjis  basin)  has  pas.sed  over  the  rim  of  the  Calcareous  I'lain, 
and  debouched  upon  the  base  of  the  primeval  mountains.  Gold  has  been 
found  at  the  fii-st  trial  and  upon  the  threshold  at  Cherry  Creek,  upon  the 
eastern  flank  of  Pike's  Peak,  and  elsewhere.  A  few  seasons  have  sufticed  for 
them  to  ascend,  by  the  Arkansas  and  the  Bayou  Solodo,  to  the  mother 
crest  of  the  Cordillera,  whence  the  basins  and  sierras  of  the  Plateau 
expand  beyond  : 

"  The  I'loHils  nl'Pve  us  to  the  whifo  Alps  fond, 

And  wo  must  j  ieroo  them,  and  survey  whate'er 
Mny  be  permitto  i .  ns  our  steps  we  bend 

Ti)  that  most  great  nud  growing  region,  where 

Tho  earth  to  her  embrace  compels  the  powers  of  air." 

Let  us  here  pause  to  reflect  whether  the  traditional  history  of  our  race 
does  not,  on  its  very  front,  ilhistrate  what  ])roniinence  awaits  this  Imiffi- 
tv(h'u<i(  Pfafrnn  of  our  continent,  descending  thus  by  terraces  into  the 
Mississip])i  Basin  on  the  east,  to  the  I'acific  Ocean  on  the  west ! 

The  exi.stence  of  the  em])ire8  of  Montezuma  and  the  Incas  exhibits 
upon  these  Table  Lands  the  only  examples  where  our  aboriginal  people 
rose  above  tin  absolute  btirbarism  el.'cwhere,  upon  the  lowlands,  as  universal 
and  as  level  as  the  waters  of  the  seu. 


THE  SIEIiRA    SAX  JUAX. 


53 


mp  of  all  the 
acts  is  all  that 
act  continuity 
IT.  To  cxaji- 
)f  uaturu,  as  1 

■ft,  the  Plateau 
,  the  radiating 
iig  tt)  the  seas; 
sre,  a  thousand 
jred  landscape, 
food  upon  the 

I  region  of  our 
crgetic  host  of 
strength.  Two 
racular  instinct 
mission  of  'TU, 
iiuth  Rock,  and 

in  planting  the 
dcareous  IMain, 

Gold  has  been 

>eck,  upon  the 

ave  sufficed  for 

to  the  mother 
i)f  the  Plateau 


oiy  of  our  race 
aits  this  longi- 
rraees  into  the 

AVOSt  ! 

Incas  exhibits 
joriginal  people 
ids,  as  universal 


All  around  the  head  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  where  it  penetrates  the 
Asiatic  continent,  its  basin  is  encircled  by  a  j)latca\i.  or  amphitheatre  of 
elevated  plains  extending  round  from  Suez,  ((tntiiiuously  through  Syria, 
Asia  Minor,  and  into  Greece.  This  descends  by  terraces  to  the  sea-sl<ore. 
Upon  this  I'lateau  have  been,  among  others,  the  cities  of  Babylon,  J*al-  . 
niyra,  and  Dama.scus  ;  upon  the  sloi)es  to  the  sea,  Alexandria,  Tyre,  Jeru- 
.silem.  Tarsus,  Byzantium,  and  Athens! 

What  cardinal  element  have  we,  in  the  immense  ment^il  systvui  of  our 
civilization,  which  has  not  come  to  us  and  with  us  from  thence?  Hence 
(^from  this  I'luteau  of  Syria)  have  resounded  through  all  time  and  into 
every  heart,  the  direct  oral  teachings  of  Jehovah  and  of  Jesus ;  hence 
have  issued  forth  the  miraculous  alphabet  and  the  numerals  :  hence  have 
come  the  cereals  and  animals  of  our  ayjriculture,  wine,  and  fruits  :  hence 
our  religion,  law,  social  manners,  history,  music,  i)oetry,  anil  arts:  from 
hence,  as  from  tiie  cradle  of  nativity,  iiavo  issued  forth  for  our  inheritance, 
to  abide  with  us  forever,  "  the  unconquerable  mind  and  freedom's  holy 
flame  !' 

Everybody  is  acquainted  with  the  Gulf  Stream  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
This  colossal  strciun,  recoiling  round  the  circular  sea  of  the  troj)ics,  and 
receiving  the  oozy  sediment  of  the  Amazon,  the  Orinoco,  the  Magdaleua, 
and  the  Mississijipi,  launches  out  into  the  middle  ocean.  Its  silent  current 
roils  the  tepid  waters  and  sandy  delin'.s  of  two  continents  a  thousjind 
leagues  ahuig  the  bottom  of  am  ocean  :  it  banks  them  up  upon  the  margin 
of  the  Northern  Sea,  to  form  the  submerged  continent  of  Newfouudlaud, 
and  the  tvbyraphtc  pluteau. 

Similarly  has  flowed,  for  fifty  centuries,  a'iong  the  isothermal  axis,  the 
human  current,  wliich  bears  with  it  the  immortsvl  tire  of  civilization 
r-vealed  to  man.  This  central  current  has  reached  the  Plateau  of  America, 
vp  which  it  will  ascend  to  plant  the  sacred  fives  over  its  expanse  and 
shine  upon  the  world  with  renewed  elfulgence.  Such  is  the  res])lendent 
era  and  the  gorgeous  jiromi.se  unveiled  to  huntanity.  The  arrival  of  this 
is  nmr  announced  by  the  indefinite  gold  i)r('Juction  and  jiastoral  power  of 
the  interior,  domestic  region  of  our  continent  and  country. 


M 


i 


CHAPTER    V. 


THE   SOUTH    PASS   OP   AMERICA. 


From  the  previous  chapters,  it  will  })e  perceived  that  one  who  travels 
from  Paris  to  Pekin,  by  the  direct  route  of  New  York,  Kansas  City,  and 
San  Francisco,  traverses  these  physical  divisions  :  1st.  The  Atlantic  Ocean. 
2d.  The  Atlantic  3Iaritime  Slope.  M.  The  AUc^rhany  Mountains.  4th. 
The  Basin  of  the  Mississippi,  'jth.  The  Cordillera  of  the  Sierra  Madre. 
r>th.  The  Plateau  of  the  Tahle  Lands.  7th.  The  Cordillera  of  the  Snowy 
Andes.     8th.  The  Pacific  Maritime  Slope,     ilth.  The  Pacific  Ocean. 

This  route  brinjrs  into  immediate  juxtajxtsition,  ii/i>ii</  t/w  fuDf/imiKil 
nxi.s.  the  great  permanent  reservoirs  of  human  poiiulatiou  and  activity — 
Wegleni  Kurojte,  America,  and  Oriental  Asia, 

If  it  be  practicable  to  accommodate  all  tlie  international  transjtortation 
of  the  three  continents  by  tliis  route,  a  prodigious  conden.sation  of  economy 
in  the  interchanges  of  the  products  and  jieople  oi'  the  world  Avill  be  accom- 
plished at  a  blow. 

The  distance  of  transit  will  be  reduced  from  the  circumference  of  the 
glol)e  to  the  length  of  its  diameter — the  time  to  oiie-teufh.  Steam  by  sea  and 
land  will  form  an  uninterrujited  trip  by  two  ocean  ferries,  connected  by  a 
transit  niilway.  Thus  will  be  solved  the  geographical  problem  which  has 
agitated  the  world  Itefore  and  since  CoLfMHlTS. 

Practical  experiment  has  long  since  exhausted  all  discussion  as  to  the 
pa,«sage  of  the  two  oceans  by  .steamers,  and  of  the  American  continent  by 
railway,  so  far  as  tlie  Atlantic  Maritime  Slope,  the  Alleghany,  tlie  Basin 
of  the  Mi.s.si.'^sippi,  uj)  to  the  wall  of  the  Cordillera  of  the  Sieira  .Aladrc, 
and  the  Pacific  Maritime  Slo])e,  are  concerned.  Serious  arguments  of  any 
difficulties  within  the.se  divisions  of  the  whole  distance  have  been  long 
.settled  and  have  ceased. 

All  that  remained  i-nigmatical  to  the  public  mind,  and  unresdlved,  when 
the.xe  notes  were  lir.>*t  ])enned,  was  the  interval  occupied  by  the  C  )rdillera 
of  the  Sierra  Madre,  the  Plateau  of  the  Table  Lands,  and  the  Cordillera 
of  tlu'  Sierra  Nevada,  which  conjointly  form  the  •'  tuinmtnin  fonnathtn  oj 
North  America,"  extending  continuously  from  Tchuantepec  to  the  Arctic 
Sea. 

54 


How  this  cc 
breadth,  is  to  i 
lislinieiit  of  the 
them.  It  is  b 
people  and  the 
that  of  exit  oi 
now  and  in  all 

There  exists 
sixsijipi,  a  perf( 
prestige,  and  hi 
furnish  a  lumii 
•iVmerican  peop 

The  area  in 
of  the  surface  i 
Pontic,  Propon 
Danube,  the  Ni 
imperfect  navi<j 
sulas  of  Asia  3 
full  with  moiin 

The  sea  surf) 
short  and  detici 
where  harbors 
rugged  and  isol 

Yet,  from  th 
to  the  Pillars  w 
has  existed  a  t 
and  commercia 

The  vestal 
has  sore^ul  out 
tem  of  the  Bon 
It  has  overrun 
who  are  the  di 

The  "  /iasin 
The  ctuinterpar 
everywhere  cli; 
is  cverywlu're  ; 
shore  is  in  lei 
arable,  of  inexl 
no  mountain,  n 
uniform  ]irodu( 
the  universal  n 


THE  SOUTH   PASS   OF  AMERICA. 


55 


t  one  who  travels 
Kansas  City,  and 
10  Atlantic  Ocean. 
Mountains.  4th. 
the  Siena  Madre. 
lera  of  the  Snowy 
'aeific  Ocean. 
Kj  tfiv  isothermal 
on  and  activity — 

nal  transportation 
sation  of  economy 
irld  will  be  accoiu- 

ctnnference  of  the 

Steam  by  sea  and 

es.  connected  by  a 

•robleni  which  has 

iscnssion  as  to  the 
vican  continent  liy 
ejfhany,  the  Basin 
the  Sierra  Ma<lre, 
I  arfjunients  of  any 
CO  have  been  long 

1  unresolved,  when 
1  by  the  ('  .rdillera 
and  the  Cordiileni 
iitiiinformati'itii  oj 
U'pec  to  the  Arctic 


How  this  complicated  barrier  of  immense  mountai.is,  1000  miles  in 
breadth,  is  to  bcf  surmounted,  has  obtained  its  illustration  by  the  estab- 
lislinieiit  of  the  Mormons  in  Utah,  and  the  military  expedition  sent  against 
them.  It  is  by  tlie  iiouth  Pans,  which  ia  the  gateway  of  the  American 
people  and  their  commerce  to  Asia,  as  has  been  the  Strait  of  Gibraltar 
tliat  i)f  exit  out  into  the  Atlantic,  to  the  nations  of  the  Mediterranean, 
now  and  in  all  ages  past. 

There  exists  between  the  Basins  of  the  Mediterranetin  and  of  the  Mis- 
sixiiijipi,  a  perfect  identity  in  position,  physical  characteristics,  historical 
j)restige,  and  social  concord.  A  comparison  of  the  one  with  the  other  will 
furnish  a  luminous  illustration,  to  explain  the  present  generation  of  the 
.American  j)eopIe  to  itself,  and  to  guide  all  future  generations. 

The  area  in  s(|uare  miles  of  tliese  two  basins  is  the  same.  Four-fifths 
of  the  surface  of  thu /on)irr  is  occupied  by  the  salt-water  expaii.se  of  the 
Pontic,  Propontic,  Adriatic,  and  Mediterranean  Seas,  into  which  flow  the 
Danube,  tlie  Nile,  the  Po,  and  the  Rhone,  rivers  having  narrow  valleys  and 
imperfect  navigation.  Protruding  out  between  these  seas  are  the  penin- 
sulas of  Asia  Minor,  (jlreece,  Italy,  Spain,  and  the  Afri(^in  coast,  all  filled 
full  with  mountain  vertebne,  rugged  and  ])oorly  adapted  to  agriculture. 

The  seu  surface  is  stormy  and  dangerous  to  navigation :  the  rivers  are 
short  and  deficient  in  channel :  the  shores  arc  imjiraeticable  to  land  except 
where  harbors  are  constructed  ;  and  the  inhabitable  lands  arninged  in 
rugged  and  isolated  masses. 

Yet,  from  the  first  jtioneer  voyage  of  Hercules  down  the  Mediterranean, 
to  the  Pillars  wliicli  still  immortalize  his  energies,  to  the  present  age,  there 
has  existed  a  certain  imperfect  compact  in  the  political,  social,  religious, 
and  commercial  relations  oi'  the  people  of  the  Mediterranean. 

The  vestal  fire  of  civilization  has  never  been  entirely  (|uenched.  It 
has  s'ii(>ad  out  to  illuminate  the  whole  area,  both  under  the  political  sys- 
tem of  the  lloinaii  J'jnpire  and  the  religious  system  of  tlie  l{<>i»ii!!  Church. 
It  has  overrun  the  brim,  and  is  inherited  by  the  mod-jin  European  nations 
who  are  the  dispeisi'd  progeny  of  Home. 

The  "  Basin  of  tlu;  Mississippi"  fills  more  perfectly  the  temperate  zone. 
The  counterpart  of  the  salt  water  surface  is  a  delicious,  undulating  plane, 
everywhere  channelled  by  rivers  navigaliU;  to  their  very  sources:  navi!',:<tion 
is  every  wliere  as  safe  and  constant  as  iij)on  a  canal ;  the  line  of  accessible 
shore  is  in  length  absolutely  infinite;  the  soil  is  uniformly  cali^nreous. 
arable,  of  inexhaastible  fertility,  and  suflliciently  irrigated  from  the  clouds; 
no  mountain,  no  sheet  of  water,  no  swamp  is  anywhere  found  to  bre.tk  tlie 
uniform  productiveness  of  this  ininiiin.se  expanse;  no  rapids  to  interrupt 
the  univei"sal  navigation  of  the  rivers. 


I 


56 


THE  S'jf'TH  /\!    «•  6  ^  AMERICA. 


Europe  is  bisfctedhy  h  Ij.i^u!  fi;;iri!:;iiii  ciuiii  traversing  it  continuously, 
ecut  and  wtM,  from  (Jiln.iltar  (  -  ,^i)K!rit!,  imderthe  names  of  the  Pyrenees, 
Al|ii-,  ('iirpatliiau!*,  and  called  Ity  the  !'<■  'riH  "-^  dliditia  aqiKinnit"  (the 
divide  of  waters).  What,  therefore,  u  outt<iJe  of  the  Basin  of  the  Medi- 
terranean is,  for  the  most  jiart,  in  the  iidionpitable  "  Basin  of  the  Baltic," 
its  climate  and  general  features  not  unlike  Labrador. 

All  alon;.'  thii  iiort/t(i)i  front  i)(  tha  '' Mississij)j)i  Basin,"  expand  beyond 
an  impen(|itible  barrier,  the  •  Basins  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Sas- 
katchewan," similarly  calcareous,  similarly  alioundinj;  in  navijjation,  and 
only  moderately  inferior  to  it  in  fertility,  in  geniality  of  climate,  and  in 
area. 

The  surface,  then,  of  the  Knropeati  Basin  is  salt-water  and  mountains. 
That  of  the  Aincrivmi  Basin  a  plain  of  calcareous,  arable  soil.  The  former 
has  8  maritime  climate,  the  latter  a  continental  climate,  superior  in  dryness 
and  ssilubrity.  The  former  has  a  restricted  and  dangerous,  the  latter  an 
abundant  and  safe,  navigation.  In  land-transportation  the  eontrast  is  still 
more  strikingly  diverse  and  favorable  to  the  American  Baain. 

The  Basin  of  the  iMediterranean,  under  the  rule  oi'the  Roman  Emperor 
Tka.ian.  attained  a  po]>ulation  of  one  hvndrea  <nui  thirty-'me  miUions. 
This  was  then  chiefly  ccngregated  in  the  eastern  half;  it  is  now  in  the 
western  half,  in  which  direction  t\\c  prest^ure  always  preponderates. 

xVt  present  the  Basin  of  the  Mississippi  contains  fir/htecn  millions  of 
inhabitants.  Itwi;.  conveniently  su.stain  cii/lttcen  /(«/m//'«^  millions.  This 
?',■«  now  an  imminsc  empire.  Comparisons  drawn  I'rom  hi.story  or  existing 
empires,  are  very  feeble  illustrations  of  what  is  to  grow  uj)  on  this  already 
radicated  foundation. 

All  the  features  of  nature,  all  the  principles  of  progress,  social  and 
political,  are  here  original.  This  undulating  plain,  uniformly  and  nni- 
versally  calcareous;  this  circular  configuration,  running  flush  out  to  the 
repelling  lines  of  the  Arctic  and  Torrid  Zones;  this  miraculously-bal- 
anced variety  of  temperature,  climate,  prairie,  forest,  land,  rivers,  rain, 
and  sun.«hine.  minerals  and  contiguous  expanses — now  nvdile  and  now 
pastond — all  these  constitute  an  original  order  of  physical  facts,  simple 
and  symmetrical,  but  sublime. 

The  rising  of  consecutive  States  out  of  the  wilderness,  erected  by  spon- 
taneous industry ;  the  unabating  deluge  of  men  daily  pouring  forth  and 
daily  jmshed  onward  by  the  hand  of  God;  the  rushing  march  of  empire; 
the  profound  internal  order  and  systematic  economy  which  [Krvad<'s  and 
guides  this  mass,  more  numerous  than  many  armies ;  the  instinct  of  dis- 
(ipline  and  .<elf-govcrnment  everv where  felt  and  always  obeyed  ;  no  cen- 
tral military  or  religious  jiower  aiiywhcn;  seen — all  these  array  themselves 


to  announce  tli 
int<'ns(  ly  poten 

JS'i'mory  will 
has  bei'U  the  c( 
wlioK'  African 
has  been  so  ui 
its  jierniaM'  nee 

Contrast  tlu 
Europe  from  ( 
Iludsons  Bay, 
ing  natio':alitie 
liarniiiny.  no  u 
the  latter  is  a  < 
in  civic  concoi 
having  one  (jlo 

Such  are  tlu 
the  other.  Tli 
In  the  niytholo 
of  that  struggl( 
ing  its  element 
terrujited  act.s. 

In  this  dran 
Alexandria,  B^ 
among  a  thous 
Actium,  licpai 

From  histor 
ye^ii-s,  is  appar 
in  the  niajorit; 
the  minority, 
martyrdom. 

It  has  been 
first  colonial  o 
administration 
the  whole  sclu 
its  arrogimce, 
hypocrisy  and 
tice.  which  sli 
divine  code  of 
of  the  stable 

This  missio 
characteristics 


T/IE  SOVTir  PASS   OF  AMRHICA. 


m 


to  aniiouiu'c  the  presence  of  principles  and  power  intensely  wr»y/;io/ and 
inti-nsi  ly  potential  in  social  ami  jiolitical  inHnences. 

I^iL'niory  will  su<rj;est  how  slow  and  narrow,  until  (|uite  modern  times, 
has  been  the  coiumn  of  or<;auized  civilization  on  the  old  continent.  The 
whole  Aliican  coast  of  the  Mediterranean  is  s«tcially  seuii-barliarous,  and 
has  been  so  uniformly  since  the  delu<.'e.  Ujion  and  beyond  the  Daindie 
its  jiernian'  iice  is  tjuite  recent  and  its  lij^ht  still  crepuscular. 

Contrast  the  elements  of  society  and  their  history,  tillinj:  the  face  of 
Europe  from  Gibraltar  to  Norway,  with  that  of  Amei!  'a  from  Cuba  to 
Ilud.^ons  Bay,  both  fronting  t(»  the  west  !  In  the  former  ajipear  distract- 
int:  natio -.alities,  dome.stic  fonie  and  fraud,  no  systematic  union,  no  moral 
Iiarmony.  no  uniformity  of  races,  no  intelligt'ut  concord  in  religions.  In 
the  latter  is  a  compact  front,  where  all  the?e  elements  rnvermd  are  Ijlended 
in  civic  concord,  fired  by  a  common  hope,  inspired  by  one  destiny,  and 
having  one  (iod,  one  httart,  one  aim,  and  one  supreme  ambition. 

Such  are  the  characteristics  ol'  the  two  basins,  contrasted  the  one  with 
the  otlier.  They  both  slope  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  are  face  to  face. 
In  the  mythological  liistory  of  Hercules  we  reed  the  first  intelligent  record 
of  that  struggle  for  dominance  over  the  Mediterranean,  and  a  xi/xtem  hold- 
ing its  elements  in  harmony,  which  has  been  ever  since  a  drama  of  unin- 
terrupted acts. 

In  this  drama  appear  tlie  tragic  sieges  of  Troy,  Tyre,  Atliens,  Carthage, 
Alex.indria,  Byzantium,  Rome,  Hhodes.  (Jibraltar,  Malta,  and  Sebastop*»l ; 
among  a  thousand  combats  by  .sea  and  land  the  naval  victories  of  Salamis, 
Acttum,  Lepanto,  Aboukir,  and  Trafalgar. 

From  history,  which  is  the  narrative  of  this  struggle  of  four  thousand 
ye4ii"s,  is  apparent  tlie  perpetual  incubation  of  military  brute  force  always 
in  the  majority ;  civic  virtue  and  nmnicipal  independence  as  uniformly  in 
the  minority,  checkered  by  heroic  resi  .aucc  and  jjcrpet  ;all_j -recurring 
martyrdom. 

It  lias  been  the  design  of  the  American  continental  republic,  from  its 
first  colonial  origin,  to  rever«<!  this  doom ;  to  elevate  civic  concord  to  the 
administration  of  political  power ;  to  su.stain  it  there ;  to  dispense  with 
the  whole  scheme  of  military  despotism  without  respect  to  its  antiquity, 
its  arrogiince,  or  the  heretofore  universal  success  of  its  subtle  union  of 
hypocrisy  and  force  ;  to  inaugurate  for  mankind  a  code  of  j)olitical  pnic- 
tice.  which  shall  l«ring  the  science  of  government  into  accord  with  the 
divine  code  of  morals  and  religion,  cradhid  1S7I^  years  ago  in  the  manger 
of  the  stable  r)f  Bethlehem  ! 

This  mission  of  cine  empire  has  for  its  oraetUar  principle  the  physical 
characteristics  and  configuration  of  our  continent,  wherein  the   liimn  of 


I 


t 


.  i 


58 


THE  SOUTH  PASS   OF  AMEHICA. 


f 


tJie  MtMninsipjii  |(it'(li)iijiuatoH  tm  supreiucly  ius  tlio  huh  iiiminj:  the 
plaiu'ts.* 

'I'lif  Ua.^iii  fil"  till'  .Mcdit.tTiiiieiiii  is,  tht'ii,  a  surface  of  Imnrii  sen,  witli 
iiiouiitaiii  nia.sM's,  iiiij'iTlV'ctly  HiU'tl  for  pojtulutiiui,  jinitrudiiijf  almvo  it  ; 
that  of  lln'  Mis-sissijipi  is  a  tah-arcous  ]>hiiii  t)f  hiiul,  every wliero  iiiterhuetl 
and  raiiiitied  with  iiaviu'ahle  arteries,  lioiu  i.re  traversed  centrally  by  the 
r.i)(/t'(ic  (if  ( injiircM  within  which  the  current  of  civilizatiun  has  fluwcd  in 
all  a;;c!< /'/■"/;(  t(i:<l  tit  irist. 

This  current,  descenJing  the  Mediterranean,  and  drawn  in  hy  the  con- 
verjiin;.'  continents  of  Kurope  and  Africa,  pours  forth  its  whole  concentrated 
Volume  thnMiLih  the  su]irenie  ]iass  known  now  and  in  all  a<res  as  the 
"  J'i/dtrs  of  III  rni/cs." 

What  is  acconiiilished  hy  this  eonverj^encc  of  the  conti.'ients  of  the  Old 
World,  in  reducinji  all  the  outlets  of  navigation,  and  con>ei|uently  of  all 
coumn  ice,  to  the  !<ingle  Pass  of  Hercules,  is  aceouijilished  lor  our  conti- 
nent by  the  "  Mountain  Formation."  This  is  the  .South  l*a.-<s  of  North 
America,  the  exact  etjuivaleut  giiifflc  pass,  in  uur  continent  of /(//((/-l(i(sins, 
to  the  iffi/f/-pa.s»  of  (.libraltjir  among  the  water-basins  of  the  Eastern 
hemisphere.  The  latitude  is  iu'^  2V.  the  longitude  10!)^  I'O'.  This  is 
the  .same  latitude  as  Jki.ston,  Bayonnj,  and  3Iarseilles,  in  France,  and  of 
Trieste  and  Constantinople. 

To  delineate  the  features  of  the  tSoulh  Push,  so  that  the  topograjdiy  of 
tli(^  plain,  the  prodigious  sierra.s  whicli  surround  it,  the  jivers  radiating 
out  of  it,  and  the  gorges  by  which  they  coninieiice  ibeiv  gentle  declina- 
tions to  the  seas,  may  all  be  grouped  in  oiw  <jliinci',iis  a  jiortrait  in  daguer- 
rcotyjic,  is  not  easy  to  be  done. 

The  pl.-iin  is  elevated  7501)  feet  above  the  sea  ;  it  is  beyond  or  mst  of 
the  ("urdillera;  its  .suriace  of  clay  is  so  ab.solutely  smooth  as  to  admit 
of  iinintcirui)ted  vision,  as  over  water ;  it  is  in  .shape  a  triangle,  having 
very  acute  angles  at  the  northern  and  southern  jioints,  and  one  very  obtuse 
at  the  .source  of  Sweetwater,  which  is  the  eastern  point. 

The  western  side,  li(M(  miles  in  length,  corresponds  with  the  bed  of  the 
Kio  Verde  (Green  River),  running  directly  from  north  to  south,  to  which 
the  whole  plain  slants.  Immediately  along  its  western  bank  rises  the 
Sin-ni  ]\'(iscitvli,  forming  a  continuous  mountain  barrier  towards  the  west; 
opjMisile  the  centr<'  of  this  hypothenuse  is  the  gorge  of  Sweetwater,  envel- 
oping the  eastern  jxiint  of  the  triangle  ;  the  remaining  sides  extend  lience, 
the  one  to  the  northwest,  the  <(tlier  to  the  southwest. 

•  Tlio  North  .Aiiicricnn  rontinciit  ic  in  rorm  a  fuhliinc  niii]ihitb)'iitro,  buiiig  voncava 
in  oonfigunitioii.     All  the  other  uoiiliui'Uts  iiro  vunnj:. 


THK   SOUTH   PASS    OF   A  ME  It  IV  A. 


M 


in    iiinoii'' 


I  lias  tluwi'il  ill 


litre,  l)ciiij;  coiicufa 


Alon^  the  foniit!!',  in  longtli  \y)*d  miles,  risos  tlio  .stnponJous  luass  of 
the  CiiiililliTii,  known  lion;  iontl/i/ us  tho  "  Wiml  Uivi-r  Mi)nntain."  Almig 
the  lattiT  u  tiiiuilur  mash  (if  tin;  Cuidillera,  but  of  inl't'iiur  uititnilc,  known 
IdciiUjj  aa  the;  '•  Table  Mountain." 

The  area  of  the  Plain  of  the  South  Pu«s  is  about  e(|uivaleiit  to  that  of 
New  Jei^sey.  Its  surface  is  of  clay,  resembling  kaolino.  of  whieh  jioree- 
lain  is  made,  ami  has  the  absolute  smoothness  of  that  material  tiltered 
through  water  and  eomjiacted  by  pressure. 

From  the  three  angles  of  its  rim  issue  the  Sweetwater,  flowing  iii^t  into 
the  I'latte  and  to  the  Atlantie;  the  Snake  Kiver,  flnwing  nortliiciitt  to 
Walla-Walla,  and  thence  with  the  Columbia  to  the  North  I'acitic ;  and 
the  Ilio  ^'erde,  south  into  the  Bay  of  California ;  by  whose  westera 
ufllucut  also.  Black  Fork,  exists  the  eii^iest  ogress  into  the  Basin  of  the 
(jrreat  Salt  Lake. 

JMost  probably  no  spot  on  the  globe  has  groujicd  into  one  view  so  mach 
of  intense  grandeur  in  the  variety  and  number  of  its  physical  wonders. 
From  a  single  ice-crowned  summit  of  the  Wine/  River  Mtiuntain  are  seen 
the  gorges  of  the  Missouri,  Yellowstone,  Platte,  Colorado,  and  Snake 
Kivers,  all  radiating  from  its  base,  and  each  the  equal  of  the  Danube  in 
length  and  the  volume  of  its  waters. 

Five  primary  chains  of  snowy  mountains  here  culminate  together  to 
this  central  ujiex,  from  which  they  radiate  out  between  the  rivers ;  the 
dorsal  mass  of  the  Cordillera  reaching  towards  the  north  to  the  Arctic  Sea, 
and  towards  the  .south  to  the  Antarctic ;  the  Sierra  Wa.satch,  the  Snake 
River  chain,  the  Salmon  River  Mountains,  all  crested  with  snow,  and  each 
having  an  unbroken  length  of  1()(K)  miles. 

The  South  Pass  is  1400  miles  from  Astoria.  It  is  the  same  distance 
i'rom  St.  Louis.  It  is,  then,  in  the  middle  region  of  the  continent.  It  is 
the  o/i/y  ,s("«yfc  p«.s.s  through  the  ''  Mountain  Formation"  from  hence  as  far 
as  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantejiee.  From  this  comes  the  name  South  Fans, 
as  being  the  most  southern  jkiss  to  which  you  may  a.scend  by  an  aflluent 
of  the  Atlantic,  and  step  immediately  on  to  a  stream  descending  uninter- 
ruptedly out  to  the  Pacific. 

This  name  is  as  ancient  as  the  Pass  itself  Into  it  concentrate  the  great 
trails  of  tlu;  bufl'alo — geographei-s  and  road-makers  Ixtfori'  the  coming  of 
man.  The  Indian,  the  Mexican,  and  the  American,  successoi-s  to  one 
another,  have  not  deflocted  from  th*"  instincts  of  the  buffalo,  nor  will  they, 
whilst  the  primeval  mountains  last  in  their  present  unshattered  bulk. 

This  is  the  continental  highway  of  the  ]ieo])le,  through  whieh  millions 
have  already  poured  to  and  fro  with  their  children,  their  frei;  principles, 
their  cattle — assembled  in  caravans,  on  foot,  and  mounted — with  wagons, 


60 


THE  SOUTH  PASS   OF   AMEKICA. 


Imiid-curtB,  kiiupsuelct,  iiixl  lirinfiiiijj  with  tlu-in  tlifir  huuHt'lmlil  god«,  iind 
the  tuhiTiiucIc  of  civil  mid  ri;lij{i(ius  iilu-rty. 

Tlio  South  Puns  is  par  fjxellince  th»!  continnital puM.  The  outlet  tit 
the  ea.stttrii  aii^'le  is  known  as  the  fjorge  of  the  Sweetwater  lliver,  whieh 
dcHcends  til  tile  IMatte;  tliat  ut  the  nortliern  angle  as  the  gorge  of  (Iros- 
vcntro  Uiver,  which  descends  to  the  Snake  River.  These  are  both  short 
and  slender  mountain  streams,  ucerim|)lishing  their  descent  in  lieds  uf  the 
extremest  sinuosity,  hut  without  abrupt  waterfalls.  They  l>otli  flow  fnuii 
chasms  in  the  flanks  of  the  iniineii.se  mass  of  the  Wind  Uiver  Mountain, 
which  here  forma  au  urc  fronting  to  the  west,  und  issue  out  upon  the 
plain. 

But  the  plain  ia  traversed  by  a  gentle  d!clil<\  [lanillel  with  the  iiioiintain 
base,  und  no  more  distinguishable  than  the  bevel  given  by  eiigineeis  to 
any  ordinary  street.  Against  this  these  two  streams  are  deflected  into 
opposite  courses,  the  former  to  burrow  its  way  around  the  urc  of  tiie  moun- 
tain to  the  southeast,  the  other  towards  the  no  it  Invest. 

To  one  who  observes  this  from  the  plain,  there  is  presented  a  similar 
miraculous  configuration  of  the  land,  such  us  displays  itself  to  oik^  who, 
naviguting  the  Propontic  Seu,  beholds  the  Dardanelles  upon  his  right 
hand  and  the  Bosphorus  on  his  left.  Moreover,  the  sky  is  vithout  clouds 
and  rainless,  the  atmosphere  intensely  brilliunt,  temperate,  .I'.id  screiu-, 
encompussed  round  by  scenery  of  the  austerest  sublimity. 

But  we  have  seen  that  the  elevation  of  the  South  I'ass  is  75(10  feet, 
and  that  Snake  River  runs  continuously  out  of  it  by  the  most  direct  and 
favorable  course,  of  1400  miles,  to  the  Pacific  Sea,  tuiinelliiig  consecu- 
tively the  Blue  or  Salmon  lliver  range  of  mountains,  the  western  Cordil- 
lera, and  all  other  transverse  ranges  and  obstructions. 

Here  is,  then,  an  uninterrupted  water  declination  through  and  across  the 
whole  ^'^ mountain formatiou"  descending  by  a  plane  dijiping  Jicv J\tA  to 
the  mile ! 

From  the  adjacent  eastern  rim  of  the  Plain  uf  tlic  Sonth  I'ajss  runs  out 
Sweetwater  into  the  Platte,  »¥hich,  tunnelling  consecutively  all  the  out- 
lying ranges  of  the  eastern  Cordillera,  forms  a  similar  uninterrupted  water 
declination,  in  a  very  straight  line  of  1400  miles  to  St.  Louis,  descending 
by  thti  simie  average  dip  i>i  five  feet  per  mile. 

Everybody  is  familiar  with  the  existing  railways,  which,  radiating  from 
St.  Jjouis  and  pursuing  continuously  the  plains  of  the  Ohio  and  St.  Law- 
rence, outflank  the  Alleghanies  between  Syracuse  and  Home,  and  descend 
by  the  Ilud.son  lliver  to  New  York. 

The  .Mieiiees  which  delineate  ami  explain  to  the  human  understanding 
the  details  of  matter,  i»s  it  fits  itself  in  myriads  of  millions  of  variegated 


forms  to  fill  oil 
intt^resting  to  t 
physical  geogra 

This  line  of 
our  I^iiion  fron 
:tt;oil  miles  in  I 
ri'os.sing  one  ri 
It  ]ire>eiits  to  II 
nieiicing  at  the 
and  debouehiii) 

From  the  Si 
out.  Tllcy,  to; 
tudinal,  ]iariilli 
a])proa(-li  the  .hi 
Hanks,  which  n 
barriers. 

Nowhere,  wi 
dividing  barrie; 
pa.ss.  Nowlier 
crest,  and  a  cor 
east  and  to  the 

The  South  I 
some    l.'iOO   )n 
atmosphere  is 
Hence  an  Intm 
tonic  and  .saliil 

Along  the  n 
time  climate  a 
.scale  as  the  sin 
so  nearly  ap]iri 
]ilenitude. 

Human  socii 
periods  of  barl 
feet.  Manner! 
opposite,  as  tli- 
this  harmony 
buleiit  force  di 
is  lo.st ;  as  we 
empire  ri.se. 

Nature  here 
of  configuratio 


THE  sorrn  r.iss  or  amkiiha. 


« 


forms  til  till  ant  tln!  Niipromi'  onlt-r  nf  tlio  univereo,  develop  nothing  so 
iiit(;rc.stiii^  to  tlitt  lit'iirt  of  civilixcii  niaii  un  tlii.s  xiii^lf  Hul)liiiie  t'uet  of 
pliysital  ;;('<i;iiiipliv  in  tlic  sujiri'iii''  rii^iiu'trinj:  i>f  tliu  Creator. 

Tliif*  iiiif  of  gentiy-iinduiuliiig  river-gradet*  fiirdles  tin-  iiiiddif  zone  of 
our  Union  from  sen  to  sea,  in  one  sniooth,  continuous  and  unliri>ken  cord, 
■'{(idd  miles  in  iengtii.  It  fits  t/i>  Imtthtrnuil  f/.r/jt  of  the  temperate  climates, 
crossing  one  river  only  at  St.  liouis,  and  outflanking  all  tin-  nmuntains. 
It  |irc.-cnts  to  us  the  counterpart  of  that  water-line  of  the  Old  World,  com- 
mencing at  the  extremity  of  the  Kuxiiie,  passing  down  the  Mediterraiieau, 
and  dehonching  out  into  the  ocean. 

From  the  South  l'a.ss  to  Mexico  the  primary  mountain  ehaiim  spread 
out.  They,  together  with  the  great  rivers  wliich  divide  them,  are  longi- 
tudinal, parallel,  and  uiiperforated.  The  rivers  grow  deeper  as  they 
ap|iroach  the  .sea.  increasing  the  altitudi  and  ahruptness  of  the  niounlain 
flanks,  which  overlaji  one  another,  and  incrcjise  and  c(»niplicatc  the  mural 
harriers. 

Nowhere,  within  this  interval,  uro  the  mountains  reduced  to  a  single 
dividing  harrier,  nor  are  there  jiresented  anywhere  the  essentials  of  a  single 
pa,ss.  Nowhere  is  to  he  found  a  sufficient  depression  in  the  mountain 
crest,  and  a  continuous  gradation  from  the  summit-crest,  prolonged  to  the 
east  and  to  the  west,  down  both  (h'clinations  to  the  seas. 

The  South  Pass  is  elevattid  7')'MI  fet^t  above  the  seas,  from  whieh  it  ia 
some  1 '>(•(»  miles  remote.  It  has,  then,  a  rontiiundil  clliiuitf,  whose 
atnio-sphere  is  tempered  by  tin?  altitude  and  by  tin;  absence  of  moisture. 
Ileiiee  an  interne  screuiti/  is  the  |*rominent  feature,  jierpetual  sunshine,  u 
tonic  and  .salubrious  air,  a  vernal  ».  iiiperature. 

Along  the  roiitiiinittil  //«rthe  chHi,_'es  from  the  continental  to  the  mari- 
time climate  and  tire  rvriid,  gradual  themselves  with  the  Siime  delicate 
scale  as  the  surface  slopes.  Untfonnity  u/  climate,  from  seu  to  8e4J,  is  then 
so  nearly  apjiroaehed,  that  it  actually  exists  ull  along  this  line  in  absidute 
plenitude. 

Human  society,  in  the  current  course  of  ages,  vibrates  to  and  fro  through 
periods  of  barbarism.  God  and  Nature  endure  con.stantly  eternal  and  per- 
fect. Manners,  religions,  policies,  change  and  becom<!  barlarous  or  the 
opposite,  as  tluiy  harmonize  with  fiod  and  Nature.  Sciein-e  devcK.ps  how 
this  harmony  may  be  known  and  practised.  As  we  recede  iVom  it.  tur- 
bulent force  dominates,  lunnbers  are  dwarfed,  civilization  withei"s.  liberty 
is  lost ;  as  we  approach  it,  civilization  expands,  charity  snnles,  order  and 
empire  ri.se. 

Nature  here  for  us.  upon  our  Omiinrtit.  amidst  a  stupendous  vastness 
of  configuration,  preserves  an  austere  simplicity,  which  guides  the  instinct- 


I 


(\': 


THE  sorrii  PASS  of  AMKltirA. 


'wo  glinicf  (if  ('injtiit'  witli  uncrriiiff  certainty.  Hen!  is  tlmt  continental 
lin",  tlu'  (liMCovcry  nC  wliidi  mankind  lian  awaited  with  tlie  keenest 
curiosity. 

In  tlie  n|ieness  of  time  the  liope  of  humanity  is  realized  ;  it  is  liy  this 
that  our  jieople  are  idtout  to  construct  tlie  (oiiti'iinitdf  liiiihniij.  Jiike  the 
re*':"lMent  L'irdle  with  which  anti((uity  hound,  in  one  chorus,  the  sister- 
hood of  the  Ura<;;-;,  we  will  hehold  united,  hy  one  zone,  the  three  sister 
Continents,  Eurojie,  Anicrica,  and  Asia. 

Hero,  tl'.roufrh  the  heart  of  our  u^rritory,  our  jiopulation,  our  Stat««,  our 
citie>,  our  farms  and  habitations,  will  traverse  the  hroad  current  of  com- 
merce, where  [la.ssenjrers  and  carjioes  may  at  any  tinu-  or  jilace  emhark 
ujion  or  leave  the  vehicles  of  transiiortation. 

Down  with  the  parricidal  trea.son  which  will  hani.sh  it  fnun  the  /<»;«/, 
from  amontr  they"V(y//»',  to  forc'c  it  into  the /«»/•;•<•«  ovcun.  outside  of  society, 
thiouirh  i'orei^n  nations,  into  the  torrid  heats,  along  solitary  « in  nitons 
routes,  im|irisoned  for  months  in  great  sliij)s ! 

This  i'mttnuntitl  liaihrni/  is  an  es.sential  domestic  institution,  more 
powerful  and  more  jterniaiient  than  law.  or  popular  consent  or  jiolitieal 
cnnstituiions.  to  thorouirhly  comj)lete  the  great  system  of  fluvial  arteries 
wiiich  I'raternize  us  into  on(>  people  ;  to  hind  the  tim  sra-lxmrdH  to  this  one 
continental  I'nion,  like  ears  to  the  human  head;  to  radicate  the  founda- 
tions of  the  I'nion  so  liroa<l  and  deep,  and  estahlish  its  struetrire  so  solid, 
that  111  jiossihle  force  or  stratagem  can  shake  its  |iermaneiice  ;  to  secure 
such  si'ope  and  sjtace  to  progress,  that  erpiidily  and  jnosperity  shall  never 
be  imjiaired  or  chafe  for  want  of  room. 

The  ]iions  veneration  sjiontaneoiisly  awarded  by  the  human  heart  to 
men.  whose  lives  exhibit  exalted  devotion  and  exalted  success,  iiispii-jng 
and  jierpetnating  in  society  the  ''  priiiriji/r  of  virtur  (ihmyn  in  t.rnn'xr," 
has  placed  Hercules,  the  pioneer  ol"  the  system  of  the  ModiterraiK-aii,  in 
the  number  of  the  immortal  gods  of  anticpiity :  a  ((mstcllation  in  the 
ethereal  caiio]     dinrnally  rciiev/s  his  mr>mory,  his  name,  and  his  actions. 

Modern  linn  s.  accepting  the  tradition,  behold  it  stamped  upon  the  coin 
of  .S|)ain  and  the  Indies,  to  obtuin  a  circulation  as  universal  and  i'amiliar 
as  the  human  ra<'0. 

The  American  people  pursue  the  planting  of  empire,  advancing  with 
intense  celerity  ;  moving  to  the  front  according  to  a  system  understood  and 
self-disciplined  ;  marching  with  the  eudenco  of  an  army  of  innumerable 
legions,  uniting  in  one  homogeneous  order,  with  the  same  energies,  a 
single  aim.  and  rrshing  to  eonsuinmate  a  cnmmon  ilestiny.  .^'hining  in 
the  front  of  this  marching  hast,  the  pioneei  and  excni]il;ir.  •'///-.</  in  nnr. 
JirsI  in  judcr,  anil  Jirxl  in  ifiiliinifn  uf  his  i<iHntrijimn."  a|ip<'ai°s  the  t'orm 


THE  suvru  pass  of  ameiiiva. 


63 


of  WasiiinOTOn,  whose  (inicular  wisdimi  and  intrejiid  (;onsfancy  inspired 
tlie  noniial  ciiuiuils  \vlu'»-o  its  iiioultl  was  cast,  its  strategy  lixod,  and  its 
uiialtcnililc  niissiiin  first  iiiau^uratod.  Let  tliis  name,  tlun,  find  a  nxmu- 
nietil  around  whose  base  the  condensed  column  of  jirogress  shall  tile  to 
and  '    '  t'uring  all  future  ages  ! 

N\  here  the  summit-crest  of  our  continent  is  found  ;  the  focal  source  of 
its  rivers  and  its  sierras  ;  where  the  cloud-conijiellin'i  Cordillera  culmi- 
nates over  the  "Gateway  of  emjiires  ;"  let  these  commemorate  this  iudhc 
iiniiHirtally,  while  the  <j;rass  shall  grow  ami  the  waters  run.  as  lirm  and 
enduring  as  the  loftiest  mountain.  Let  the  chililren  of  the  world  be 
taught  to  say  :   Bihold  the  Pass  and  the  Pillars  of  WASUIN'dTON  ! 

The  history  of  the  human  race  arranges  and  gauges  itself  by  genera- 
tions. Tliirfy-t/irii  years  are  estimated  to  be  tin;  pi.-riod  of  ccuitrol  exer- 
cised iiv  t'aeh  generation  over  the  long  lil'e  of  a  nation.  As  each  sueceids 
its  preileces.ior,  ihe  wcnk  of  i)rogre8s  is  reinvigorated,  and  fresh  jiower  and 
new  coiKjUe.Ht.s  accumulate.  The  present  is  the  fi(jhlif-»l.rtli  year  of  the 
Federal  Constitution,  and  inaugurates  the  thinl  generation  of  our  united 
|)eo|ile. 

'\'\w  Ju->il  gave  to  us  this  sacred  Union  and  foundeil  our  continental 
Ke|iul)lie.  The  xnoml  has  filled  u]i  the  Atlantic  half  of  the  continent 
vith  States,  secured  the  maritime  connections  with  that  ocean  and  with 
Kuro|ie,  and  has  bla/.ed  for  ns  the  way  atio.ss  tlie  continent  to  the  I'acitic 
an  1  to  Asia.  We,  the  /Am/ generation,  receive  I'rom  them  the  jiious  task 
to  plant  State's  onward  to  that  ocean  ;  to  complete  the  zodiac  of  fraternal 
nations  round  the  globe,  and  to  set  deep  and  firm  to  their  outward  dimen- 
sions the  foundations  they  have  laid. 

As  we  a.-^sume  our  task,  illuminated  by  the  example  of  their  wisdom, 
energy,  and  glory,  intent  to  equal  them  in  the  first  and  surpass  them  in 
liir  rest,  may  we  not  repeat  this  invocation  to  the  luminary  of  the  universe, 
i.s  he  depiirts  to  usher  in  another  day :  — 


I  ■ 


'■  1  ho  wcnry  sun  halh  iiiinlc  n  hoMpd  «<•?. 
AnJ,  by  tliu  brij;lit  truck  itf  liis  fiery  car, 
Qivos  token  of  a  gomlly  ilay  to-morrow !" 


Th 


h'I 

,1 

m 


CHAPTER    VI. 

THE    GREAT    HASIN    OF    THE    MISSISSIPPI. 

TllK  most  olividiisly  roniiirkanlo  pliysiral  feature  of  America  and  of  the 
iiiliabitt'tl  j:l(il)e,  is  the  Jinsiii  of  tin-  MkmMlppi.  Ah  yet  tlio  pojmlar  luiml 
doe.s  not  clearly  comprehend  its  diinen.-^ion.s,  and  tlie  underHtandinj;  of  it.- 
phy.sical  characteristics  is  indistinct  and  vague.  It  is  bi.sected  througli  its 
eemrc  hy  a  supreme  artery,  which  above  St.  Louis  has  received  the  uuuie 
of  tlie  Minsoiiri,  and  below,  the  MissigHipjii  River. 

This  is  r»(l()()  miles  in  length,  and  its  surface  is  a  continuous  inclined 
plane,  descending  .seven  inches  in  the  mile.  Into  this  central  artery,  as 
into  a  common  tioiiffh,  descend  innumerable  rivers  couiing  from  the  great 
mountain  chains  of  the  continent. 

All  of  the  immense  area  thus  drained,  forms  a  single  Ixisln^  of  which 
the  circuniferent  mountains  form  the  rim.  It  may  also  be  called  an  (imphl- 
tlii litre,  embracing  1,1215,100  sfpiare  miles  of  surface.  This  has  been, 
during  the  antediluvian  ages,  the  bed  of  a  great  ocean,  such  as  is  now  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  or  the  Mediterranean,  above  the  surface  of  which  the 
mountains  jirotruded  thenLsclves  as  islands. 

(Jradiially  filled  up  by  the  filtration  of  the  waters  during  countless  iiges, 
it  has  reached  its  jtresent  altitude  above  the  other  basins,  oV(^r  which  the 
oceans  now  still  roll,  and  into  which  the  waters  have  retired. 

The  "  Jidxiit  of  the  Af{itsliisi'j>pt"  is,  then,  a  j)avemcnt  of  calcareous  rock 
many  thousand  feet  in  depth,  formed  by  the  .sediment  of  the  superincum- 
bent water,  deposited  stratum  upon  stratum,  compressed  by  its  weight  and 
crystallized  into  rock  by  its  chenncal  fermentation  and  ]iressiire.  Jt  is  in 
exact  imitation  of  this  sublime  process  of  the  natural  world,  tl  at  every 
housewife  (  > 'ipres-ses  th(>  milk  of  her  dairy  into  solid  cheese  and  butter. 

It  is,  therefore,  a  homogeneous,  tindulating  plain  of  the  g/onii/iin/  or 
sedimentary  formation,  surmounted  by  a  covering  of  soil  from  which 
springs  the  vegetation,  as  hair  fnmi  the  external  skin  of  an  animal. 
Through  this  coating  of  soil,  and  into  the  soft  surface  strata  of  rock,  the 
de.'^cending  fresh  waters  burrow  their  channels,  converging  everywhere  from 
the  circumfi'rent  rim  to  the  lowest  level  and  pa.ss  out  to  the  sea. 

In  this  sy.stem,  which  is  the  sanu>  as  the  circulation  of  the  blood  in 
64 


animal  life,  the 
garden  fountain, 
correspontling  oi 
of  contour  in  th( 

Such  is  this  vi 
simph>,  homogen 
The  vegetation  i 
and  are  mon;  vai 
oceans,  and  with 

The  in.sular  si 
feet  el(!vat*!d  abo 
coming  from  the 

The  plain  of 
T.OOO  feet  above 
raiidess  and  witli 

Such  are  the  ( 

Through  the  i 
one  to  the  other, 
sensilile  to  a  tni\ 
who  does  .so,  the.> 
the  diurnal  alti>i 
the  grasses  indie 
palpably  as  tin 

All  that  porti 
River  and  th('  .' 
Indiana,  IlliiioiH 
Arkan.sas,  and  S 

An  irreguliir 
south  and  west  i 
this  iiue  and  tin 
ened  liy  .sliowers 

I'eyond  this 
nourish  tim!>er. 
narrow  lines  of 
and  in  thi.  is!nn( 
and  soft,  arablt; 
of  vegetation. 

The  tcrminati 
the  first,  where 
about    l.'iU  mile 
tised,  nor  ncec.^s 


THE   OIIKAT  DASFX   OF    THE  MISSJSS/PPr. 


65 


iiniiniil  life,  the  MiKsoiiri  Ilivor  and  the  mimitoHt  rill  that  flows  from  a 
gjirdeii  roiuitaiii,  lias  each  it.*«  siieiific  and  c•(lns|)ieuou^  place.  Heme  the 
correspond in}^  order  In  the  unijjiilations,  the  variety,  and  the  complexity 
of  contour  in  the  surface  and  in  its  vej^etation. 

Such  is  this  vast  Basin,  whose  transverse  diameter  is  25(tO  miles,  and  so 
sinipli!,  homogeneous,  and  clear  is  the  system  of  its  <reolo<ry  and  its  waters. 
The  v»'<j;(!tation  and  climate  have  a  like  consistent  order  of  arninfrenient. 
and  are  more  varied.  These  vary  with  the  latitude,  the  distance  from  the 
oceans,  and  with  the  altitude. 

The  insular  site  of  New  York  (Mty  is  upon  the  hank  of  the  sea,  is  iti.rti/ 
feet  elevat»!d  ahove  the  .sea,  and  is  constantly  irrijrated  hy  the  evaiMtralion 
coming  from  the  .sea;  it  is  in  latitude  41°  IW  north, 

The  plain  of  the  .South  I'ass  is  2(100  miles  from  the  sea  ;  is  elevate*! 
7500  feet  above  the  sea;  has  no  va|ior  from  the  sea;  hut  an  atmosjdiere 
rainless  and  without  d(!W  ;  it  is  in  latitude  42°  ."50'  north. 

Such  are  the  contrasts  in  the  elements  ufieeting  climate  and  vegetation. 

Through  the  interval  between  thest;  two  cxtrenu's  Nature  changes,  from 
one  to  the  other,  by  a  graduation  .so  delicate  and  uniform  as  to  be  scarcely 
.si'nsible  to  a  traveller  who  goes  /rsx  than  the  whole  distance.  Yet,  to  oni? 
who  does  .so,  the.se  changes  are  as  pal])al)le  upon  the  face  of  Nature,  as  an* 
the  diurnal  alternations  of  light  and  darkness.  The  timber,  the  floni.  and 
the  grasses  indicate  tint  prese?iee  and  abs<'nce  of  atmospluric  irrigation.  a< 
palpably  a,s  the  sun  indicates  the  day.  and  the  stars  the  night. 

All  that  portii^n  of  the  Mississippi  Hasin  lying  between  the  .Mi.«ssissippi 
River  and  th(!  Atlantic,  is  densely  timbered,  excepting  only  u  |M»rtion  of 
Indiana,  Illinois,  and  Wisconsin  ;  so  also  are  the  States  of  Louisiana, 
Arkan.sas,  and  South  Mis.souri. 

An  irregular  line  irom  the  head  of  Lake  Erie,  running  towards  the 
south  and  west  into  Texas,  dtifines  the  cesiSiition  of  the  timber.  BetWtM-n 
this  iiue  and  the  sea  exi.st«  a  continuous  forest  region,  perpetually  moist- 
ened by  .showers  from  the  ocean. 

I'ey.ind  this  line,  and  deeper  into  the  eonlineii*.  the  upland  cea.ses  \o 
nourish  timber,  which  is  replaced  by  luxuriant  aenual  grasses,  though 
narrow  lines  of  forest  continue  upon  the  .saturated  bottoms  of  the  rivers 
and  in  &.i  islands.  This  i.s  the  I'lairie  r.  ^;iti;;  '.'.',  luxuriant  annual  gn.'^ses. 
and  soft,  arable  .soil,  over  which  the  fires  iuinmdly  sweep  after  the  decay 
of  vegetation. 

The  termination  of  this  belt  is  marked  by  an  irregular  line  [Nirallel  u> 
the  first,  when^  t!ie  rains  eea.se.  and  the  t'lnber  entirely  di.sapiH'ars,  It  is 
about  I'lO  miles  in  width,  and  witliin  it  artifii  iai  iriigatioi\  ,>  not  pnu - 
tisod,  nor  necessary,  it  being  everywiiere  .soft,  arable,  and  fertile. 


J 


m 


Tin:  tiith'AT  //.1.S7.V  OF  riii:  Mississirri. 


El       'l 


To  th 


IS  HUecci'ds  till-  Mil 


init'iisi!  rin'tiffSH  wh'mu  onwiird  to  tlio  niouniaiiis, 


cxclusivfly  JiiiKtiiriil,  (il'a  coinjuut  noil,  eoiitod  with  the  iJ\vart'ltuft"iiiojj;rii88, 
witliout  trt'cs,  aii<l  tlic  alioiic  of  thcahori^rinal  CMttlc.  That  no  tK'S<'rt  docs 
or  ran  exist  witliiri  this  liasiii.  is  inanit'cst  t'roiii  tlic  ahiindaiicc  and  nia<;- 
nitndr  nC  tlic  rivirs:   the  iinilidin  (idcaicous  t'orniatii)n  ;  the  alisontt'  of  u 


tro|ii(Ml  sun 


its  li 


in<ritudinal  position  across 


thi^  t« 


ni|it'rat(;  zono ;  an 


d  the 


^^n-atncss  and  altitude  of  the  imiuntaiiis  on  its  western  ri 


ni. 


'I'iie  river  system  of  the  .I/Z.vx/.'.d//*/)/  /{iisiii  resernldes  a  fan  oi' [tahndeaf. 
Tile  stem  in  the  State  i(f  hnuisiana  rests  in  the  (iiilf;  almve,  the  aftluiMit 
rivers  euiivertie  til  it  fitini  all  parts  of  the  compass.      Krom  tin;  tasl  come 


in 


the  II. 


ihitto.  the  Ymzim).  the  Ohiii.  the  llliiinis,  and  the  I'luier  Mis- 


sissi|ipi. 


I- 


rmn  the  ms/.  the  Ked 


It 


IVel 


pp, 
the  Washita,  the  Arkansas,  tht 


White.  St.  Francis,  jnid  Osaire  Kivers.  the  Kinsas,  the  Triple  IMatte,  thi! 
Jilviu  ipii  Ciinrs.  and  the  Vcllowstnne,  all  naVifiahln  rivers  of  great  length 
and  importance. 

These  rivers  present  a  continimns  navigalile  channel  of  22,5(10  miles, 
having  t.*>.<M)ll  miles  of  slmre,  an  anmnni  of  navigation  and  coast  eiiual  to 


th<'  Atlaiilii-  Ocean. 


The  area  nf  the  Mississippi  Basin  classifies  itself  into  oiu'-and-a  hali- 
fifths  III'  compactly-growing  forest,  the  same  nf  prairie,  and  twndiftlis  of 
great  plains.  Throngh  ail  of  these  the  river  .system  is  ramilieil  as  minutely 
com|ilc.\  as  are  the  veins  ami  arti'ries  of  the  human  .system. 

The  population  is  -M  present  I S.(l(l(l,(l(Ml,  The  capacity  for  population 
is  indclinite.     Comparison  will  illustrate  this  interesting  fact. 

Society  erects  itself  into  o//y(//v.s-  in  order  loarrixc  at  strength,  civilization, 
and  pcrmam-ncc.  The  most  periect  examjilc  is  the  cm|iire  of  the  /'unnnis, 
whose  history  we  familiarly  po.s.sess  complete,  of  its  risi'.  culmination,  and 


slow  d 


('(■line 


This 


s  emiiire  oc( 


u|>ied  and  fused  into  one  political  and  social 


i-ysicm  the   /(usin  nf  lln  Mn/ih irniititii,  whose  ari-a  is  l,l(i((,(>  ()  sijuart 


n  iloH. 


i    •olli 


'.(  o*'  this  they  ne\('r  passed,  except  into  the  corner  of  (Janl  and 


Urita: 


lit    !( 


•ted   llicinsclvcs  to  the    .NIe(literranean  and  I'oiitic  Seas, 


to  the  .Vile,  to  the  Manuhe,  and  (<>  the  Ithone.  'i'his  em|iire,  emiiraeing 
'.\  V  ;i!mi\i,  arc;  .  coi  t. lined  under  'I'r.  .in  and  the  Aiitoiiiues  l!!!  .(MMI.(IO((  of 
jMtpiiMi  inn,  .Miii  lli.ii.e  i.self,  it;  tiie  gi'ograpliical  centre,  had  a  diameter  (d' 
;"jtl  oiiie:*  and   !■;     till. (Mill  of  iiiMaliilanlsI 

l»ii    >h<   Hrea  oi'this  Uasiii  is.  for  the  iiKisi  r.irt,  a  salt  water  waste,  into 
Avhici    pHt'.riwi    'i.e  |"  linsiilas  of  Asia    Minor,  (ireece.  Italy,  and  S[iaiii, 


tl 


U"ll> 


'1  with 


I   mountain  vertehriv,  .ind  al.so  a  i\'W  islands.     Spaeo 


for  hal'/a  i'  i  .■■  and  ilie  iirodiiciion  of  fooil  is.  therefc 


irce 


Th 


le  e(piivaleiit,  with  us,  ol'  this  salt  surface  and  rugged  mouiitaiusj  is 


overywherc,  an 
productive,  Th 
and  the  front  o 
amount  and  acci 
easily  contain  at 
inhaliitaiits ! 

If  the  eaicarec 
fronts,  and  the  n 
Europe  arid  Asia. 
the  existing  hum 
This  I'asin  is 
ihe  (Sulf,  at  the  I 
produced.    On  th 
/one.      Between 
we  descend  from 
ill  posiliiiii  it  i 
the  West  bank   o( 
and  fertile  prairii 
hy  their  confluent 
once  of  the  N'ortli 
The  circle  de.^c 
pns,H  throuirh   Vd 
Hudson's   ISay,  t 
Cni.j.  and  the  ci( 
will  pa.ss  throiigl 
therefore,  thci/.-o 
tlie  Basin  of  the 
It   is  also   e(|u 
hlocked  out    into 
sites  in  (he  iiow-e 
exactly  in  the  mi 
tiiictly  concentrat 
to  the    nnniher  i 
occupying  On'riif 
Europe  has  al 
wrsf  dehouchinir 


AJii 


tlio  niouiiiaiiis, 
irf  buffalo  ^rass, 
t  no  di'scrt  (looa 
(lance  ami  niaj;- 
lic  alisoni't'  of  a 
;  zone  ;  and  the 
1. 

iin  ol'  pahii-lcaf. 
ivo,  till-  artlut'nt 
n  till!  fist  foino 
the  rpiii'V  MIh- 
('  Arkansas,  the 
ri|ilc  IMatto,  the 
'  of  jnrat  lenj^th 

•f  2-2jm\  iniUvH, 
nl  I'oast  (Miual  to 

)  oiu'-and-a-half- 

nil  two-liftlis  of 

ili<'(las  niiniitoly 

m. 

y  for  ]iopiilation 

act. 

i;tli,  civilization, 

of  the  lioiiiiiiis. 

iilniinatioii.  and 

lilical  and  s'H'ial 

.!(i(»,<l  0  (<.iuarc 

ncr  of  (iaul  and 
ind  Pontic  Seas, 
ii|iirc,  cniliracin;; 
;  llil.lMMI.OlMI  of 
ad  a  diameter  of 

water  waste,  into 
taiy,  and   Spain, 
islands.     S|iaei! 
•ii'nrcc. 
I  A  mountains,  is, 


THE  OliEAT  liAS'X  OF   THE  MfSSfSSfPlf. 


07 


pverywhore,  an  undulatinjr.  ralcarr  im  plain,  unifonnly  inhabital)li>  and 
productive.  The  rivvji-s  surpass  the  .sea  i\ir  the  frei</hta<^(!  of  conunerce, 
and  the  front  of  land  upon  them  exceeds  the  coasts  of  tin;  oceans  in 
amount  and  aece.ssiliility.  The  JinKi'ii  of  the  Afissixxiiipi  will  then  more 
easily  contain  ami  feed  ten  timcH  the  pf>pulation,  or  l,;ilO,()00,000  of 
iidiahitants ! 

If  th(!  calcareous  ])lain  extendin/  Ut  *ho  .\rt^\f  ^^a.  the  two  niiirl'linc 
fronts,  and  the  mountain  formation,  Im>  •I'l/i^d.  »ti4  tin-  whoh'  compared  '/> 
Europe  and  Asia,  2,tM)U.()(M),(MM)  will  easily  Am^  rf/Kfitt  n  ^.^btion  d<*uW« 
the  existin<r  human  race  ! 

This  Hasin  is  all  within  »he  T,mfufate  7/,,*^  ,  %¥  «ym  dx*  4MMW4f 
ihe  (iulf,  at  the  level  of  the  sea.  tropi<id  fruitM.  dow'er'  }t*ii4  Si'0itlikmWK 
produced.  On  the  hii;h  mountain  sIo|M's  //'>»*<  the  V'e/<vf>^i/<«  <^ ^t^  fitt^ 
Zone.  Ihftween  the.se  arc  'ourid  every  kin4  <»f  ii>rric,«|kur.il  ^<A*it^vm,  urn 
wi'  descend  from  the  extremes  to  fin-  central  Hi<''liuin. 

In  position  it  is  (•^■»ii<tiy  iiiitr'ilx>>  the  continent.  ,\'ot  ft*r  n^iw/^  (I'ttt 
the  West  bank  of  the  Missouri  Hiver,  in  the  Imisohi  of  romarnfie  '-ttt^y 
and  fertile  prairie,  ia  a  H[K»t  where  the  Smokyhill  and  I{<'publicii«  Kiv«'«K. 
by  their  confluence,  form  (he  Kan.sas.  Thi*  is  Mu'  <:eo;iraphieal  centre  at 
omc  of  the  N'orth  American  continent,  and  of  tin   Hasin  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  circle  described  from  this  centre  with  a  radii»^  to  San  Francisco  ^vill 
pass  throutrh  Vimi'iinir  tm  the  Cohnnbia,  the  |«>rt  of  Srvr/it  Jliver  on 
nud.>;on's  I'ay,  throujih  (/n'lin-.  through  UtiKton,  throuprh  lliir'nm.  Vera 
Cni::.  and  the  city  of  Mv.rico.  With  a  radius  to  flie  A'M\t  <J/-,'ree,  a  circle 
will  pa.ss  throULdi  Afo/n'/r,  Xcto  Oilraiis,  ,ind  M>ilifj,.rilii  This  spot  i«. 
therefore,  thi'  </i oyni/i/iunl critfn  of  tha  North  Aineriean  Contiiienf  and  (tf 
the  Hasin  of  the  Mississijipi,  both  at  once. 

It  is  also  «'((ually  the  centre  of  th(>  American  Union,  ;m  it  is  now 
lilocked  out  into  exi.stin^  States  and  into  prospective  States,  to  oceujiy 
sites  in  the  now-existing  TiTritories  !  .Moreover,  it  is  e(|uidi.stant  from,  and 
exactly  in  the  middle  between,  the  two  halves  of  the  huunin  family,  dis- 
tinctly eoneentrated  ;  the  one  half  (Miristians,  occnpyinir  Western  Kurope, 
to  the  luimber  of  :i ">!>,( MM),0(»( I  of  population;  the  other  half  Papins, 
occupying  Oriental  :Uia  and  Poh/nvsia,  to  the  number  of  t!r)<l,(IO(l,(IO(> ! 

Kuro]ie  ha.s  all  the  outlets  of  its  iidand  seas  and  rivers  towards  the 
vent,  debotwhing  on  to  our  Atlanlic  front,  towards  which  its  whole  surl'ace 
slopes.  Asia  similarly  jire.sents  to  our  I'acilic  front  an  On'mtd/  s,'nj,i. 
containing  her  great  rivers,  the  densest  mas.xes  of  her  poimlation,  and 
detached  i.slands  of  great  area,  den.se  population,  and  intinite  pro<luction. 

The  distance  IVom  the   Knropean  to  »he   A.-ian  shores  (from    Paris  t( 
I'ekinj,  travelling  .strai<:ht  by  the  continuous  river  liiv  of  the  i'olomac. 


68 


THE   (iUK.KT  IIASIS  OF   THE  MISSISSII'l'l. 


Ohio,  ML-i-sduri,    IMiitlc.  aixl  Snake  lliverH,  and  uitohh  the  two  rci'ans,  m 
only  10,000  ^'(•(•<:ni|iliic  inilus. 

This  Htnii^'ht  line  is  tlie  iltU  of  that  temperate  zone  of  the  Northern 
Hcniis|ihLTe  of  the  ^.'lolie,  thirty-three  deforces  in  witUli,  which  contains 
four-tifths  of  tlic  hind,  ninc-tciiths  of  \\w  {icople,  and  all  tin;  white  races, 
coninicrciid  activity,  and  iiidnstry  of  the  civilized  world. 

When,  therefore,  this  interval  o*'  North  America  shall  he  filled  up,  the 
affili.ition  of  mankind  will  V.;  accomplished,  proximity  recof>;nizcd,  tii<  dis- 
tniction  of  intcrvciiin<r  oceans  an<I  eipjutorial  licats  cease,  the  remotest 
nations  grouped  top>ther  and  fu.si'd  into  one  universtJ  uud  convenient 
system  of  immediate  relationship. 

Such  are  ,s(ime  of  t!  •niordinary  attractions  presented  to  mankind,  as 
a  social  nia.-'s.  hy  tlu;  {xisition  and  conli;niralion  ol'  the  MixHt'iisi/ijii  linnni. 
There  is  anuther  and  superlative  prospective  view.  This  jircsciits  it.self 
in  contrastinj;  the  physical  conlif^uration  of  North  America  with  the 
otiier  continents. 

Europe,  tlu'  smallest  in  area  of  the  continents,  culminates  in  its  centre 
info  the  icy  ma.sses  <if  the  Alps.  From  the  {glaciers,  where  all  the  jireat 
rivers  have  their  sources,  they  descend  the  declivities  and  radiate  iv  the 
difl'crent  seas. 

The  Danube  flows  dinntly  ea.st  to  the  Pontic  Sea ;  the  l*o,  to  the 
Adriatic;  the  Khone,  to  the  Sea  of  Lyons;  the  Uhiiie,  north  to  the 
German  Sea.  Walled  off"  hy  the  I'yrcncan  and  ('ar-,uithian  .Mountains, 
diverfreut  and  isolated,  are  the  Tajius,  the  Klbc,  and  other  Hingle  rivers, 
affluents  of  the  Baltic,  the  Atlantic,  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  I'imtie 
Sea. 

Descend in}r./V«m  common  nidinnt  jHiints  wnd  ilivc^iu^  every  way  from 
one  another,  no  intercommunii;.  nm  exists  ay,  ,y^  the  river»  of  Kun>|M' 
towards  their  ."ourct's  ;  nitWuation  is)  \,\  lUulfwlie.  Art  mid  ommi  tvc 
have  never,  durinu  thiii>  t-cnturii!*  \itiiu-d  so  many  suihII  vulluyti.  uimotvly 
isolat«'d  hv  im|K<netralile  harrii^rw. 

Hem-*  .iponeach  river  dw-lls  a  disiimt  people,  difft  uiij;  IVnm«li  ih«*n>»l 
in  n«>«  lanjruac*',  reli-jion,  iiitor^'sts,  ami  hahits  Thou>;h  oIUmi  fx-hh^^iNi/ 
amalpiuiatrd  )>>  cuit<|ue(«t.  tli'  apiiu  rclapM'  into  frnpuentx.  IV^iii  iiMMiu 
i;eo^niphii  '  iiicohiTeX''  u'< /iy/oti«  crvi  dn  und  tnjjifmiir^  foriu  no  iu«4\i 
enduriiit;  '       ^ 

Thi         t.ii  t     i   «)»«•»*'   nation-   '     .1  ^tatjf  of  pei^'tual  war,  of  mutual 
exu-rib       itm     an   ip|«iilliug  di»MHuti<   cMUihtpie  of  a  tew  splendid  xyttw 
iii*«  er.-lun^  uiuliiiudin<>us  aiitlioiivoi  Hubmissive  and  unchronidcd  H(>it«. 

KudH  Hiniilar  to  Kiiidjm.  though  grander  iu  hik  and  {Ktpulatiou,  a 


THE  uhkat  hasis  of  the  MlSSISSiri'l. 


*;:« 


e  two  rof'uns,  is 


From  tli»(  Htu|wiid(>UH  cciifnil  Imriior  of  the  llinialiiyaM  run  tin-  lour 
great  rivvrs  of  China,  duo  caM,  to  ili.schar<;o  tlu-nisclvt's  umlcr  tlic  ri«in}r 
hum:  towards  tlie  smith  run  tlie  rivori*  of  Coeliin  Cliina,  X\w  (Janp-s,  anil 
tile  Indus:  towards  tlu;  inut,  the  rivers  of  tlie  Casjiian:  and  hmf/i, 
throujrh  Silu  ria  t«  the  Arctic  Sea,  many  rivi-rs  of  the  first  ma^rnitude. 

I>uriiii,'  fifty  centuries,  as  now,  the  Alps  and  Himalaya  Mountains  have 
|iroved  insu|)erahl(^  barriitrs  to  the  amal;;aniation  of  tlu>  nations  around 
their  ))at<eH  and  dwelling;  in  the  vaUeys  that  radiate  from  tlieir  slopes. 

The  continents  of  Africa  and  South  America,  as  far  u«  we  are  familiar 
with  the  details  of  their  surfuces,  uru  evuu  more  tlian  theue  perplexed  into 
dislocateil  frafiiiients. 

In  contruHt,  the  interior  of  North  America  presents  towards  lieuven  an 
cxpandeil,  roHcnvi:  bowl,  to  receive  and  fuse  into  Inirmony  whatsoever 
enters  within  it«  rim.  So,  each  of  tJu-  other  continents  prcsentin;;  tlie 
cDiiri.r  surface  of  a  howl  reversed,  scatter  everytliinn  from  u  central  apex 
into  radiant  distraction. 

political  societies  and  (-mpires  havi;  in  all  aj;eH  conformed  themselv(!s  t(» 
emphatic  p'ojjraphical  facts.  This  lh-m<irriit!r  /i'ljnili/inni  fiii/ii'rf  of 
North  America  is,  tlmn,  /nn/isfiini/  to  expand  and  fit  itself  to  the  coi.ti- 
ncnt  ;  to  control  the  oceans  on  cither  hand,  and  eventually  the  contitient.<! 
beyond  them.  Much  is  uncertain,  yet  through  all  the  vicissitudes  of  the 
future,  this  much  of  ett-rnal  truth  is  discernilile. 

In  p'ograpby  th(!  unfit/iisix  of  the  old  world,  in  society  we  an;  and  will 
be  tlu'  reverse.  Our  North  America  will  rapidly  accumulate  a  population 
cc|ual!ing  that  of  the  rest  of  tlu!  world  combined :  a  people  nno  and  indi- 
vi.sibh',  identical  in  nninners,  lanpiagi;,  customs,  and  impulses:  ])reserv- 
ing  the  same  civilization,  the  same  religion ;  imbued  with  the  same 
opinions,  and  having  tlu!  same  political  liberties. 

Of  this  we  have  two  illu.st  rat  ions  n<tw  under  our  eye,  the  one  passing 
away,  tlic  other  advancing.  The  uliunijliitil  Indian  nice,  amongst  whom, 
from  Darieii  to  the  Ks(|uimaux,  and  from  Florida  to  \'ancouver's  Islaiul, 
cxinfc  II  |M'rfcct  identity  in  hair,  complexion,  features,  religion,  st^iture,  and 
huiguage  :  and,  woNf/,  in  the  instinctive  fusion  into  one  language  and  into 
<jne  new  race  of  immigrant  (icrmans,  Knglish,  Norwegians,  Celts,  and 
Italians,  whose  individindities  an-  olditerati-d  in  a  single  generation. 

Thus,  the  perpetuily  and  ilestiny  of  our  sacred  I'liio!)  find  their  con- 
clusive proof  and  illustration  in  the  bosom  of  nature.  The  ])olitical  storms 
that  periodically  rage  are  but  the  clouds  and  sunshine  that  give  variety  to 
the  atmosphere  anil  checker  our  history  as  we  miireh. 

The  |Misheshion  of  the  linnlii  i>f  t/ii'  Misnissi'ii/ii,  thus  held  in  inn'fi/  by 
the  American  people,  is  a  s<ipreme,  u  crowning  mercy.     Viewed  ulone  In 


I    ! 


tP 


77/ A'  lilt  EAT  IIASIX  OF   THE  MISSIfiSIN'l, 


itn  woiKlcrfiil  jKisitioii  tiiiii  cuiiacity  iiiiion^  the  eoiitinentH  nnd  (lie  natittnH; 
Ti«-Wf<l.  aliso,  aH  tlic  (IciiiiiiKitiii^  |i:it°t  (if  tlic  gnat  ciilcarrdiiH  |ilaiii  i'Dniicd 
of  till  (•oiifrriiiiiiiiiis  Ma.siiis  nf  tlif  iMis'^is-'iiiipi,  f>t.  liawiriicc,  Ilinlsdn'a 
Bay,  ami  Atlialiasia.  tlu;  aiii]>liilli(>ati'f  of  the  wuilil — licir  i,s  Hii|ir<'incly, 
iiitli!i'(],  the  uioKt  uiagiiifii-cnt  (l\V('lliii<r-]jla(r>  niarkiil  nut  fiy  (jod  for  man's 
aliodc. 

Bcholil,  tlicii,  ri.>-iiin  now  and  in  the  ftitnic.  tlir  iinjui'  which  imhi-ilry 
and  !-<lf-goV(rnMicnt  crcat*;.  The  growth  ol' half  a  imlnry,  hewed  nut  if 
the  wihh-nu'tw — itw  weapons,  the  axe  and  jihiw  ;  its  taetii-,  hdior  and 
energy;  its  sohliers,  free  and  eipial  eitizeiiH. 

Ueliold  tlie  oraeular  goal  to  which  our  eiigles  march,  and  whither  the 
thalan.N  of  our  States  and  |ieo|ile  moves  harmoniously  on,  to  ]ilant  u  nun- 
(fffil  Slultn  and  consummate  their  drit;  greatnewM. 


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ffHf 


CHAPTER   VII. 


PASTORAL    AJiERICA. 


There  has  been  a  radical  niisiipprelienslon  in  the  poimlar  mind  as  to 
the  true  character  of  the  "  Great  Pldiiis  of  Aiiim'cn,''  as  complete  as  that 
wliich  pervaded  Europe  resjiecting  the  Atlantic  (Jeean  durinjj;  the  whole 
historic  period  jirior  to  CoLLMHUS.  These  J^LAINS  a"e  not  th'scrls,  but 
the  opposite,  and  are  the  cardinal  basis  of  the  future  empire  of  conmierce 
and  industry  now  erecting  itself  upon  the  North  American  Continent. 

They  arc  calcareous,  and  form  the  Pastoral  (Jarden  of  the  world. 
Their  position  and  area  may  be  easily  understood.  The  meridian  line 
which  terminates  the  States  of  Louisiana,  Arkansas,  Missouri,  and  Iowa 
on  the  west,  forms  their  eastern  limit,  and  the  llocky  Mountain  crest  their 
icesfern  limit.  Between  these  limits  they  occupy  a  loniritudinal  parallel- 
ogram of  less  than  1(M)()  miles  in  width,  extending  fnmi  the  Texan  to  the 
Arctic  coasts. 

There  is  no  timber  upon  them,  and  single  trees  are  scarce.  They  have 
a  gentle  slope  from  the  icvsf  to  the  east,  and  abound  in  rivers.  They  are 
clad  thick  with  nutritious  grasses,  and  swarm  with  animal  life.  The  soil 
is  not  silicious  or  sandy,  but  is  a  fine  calcareous  mould.  They  run  smoothly 
out  to  the  navigable  rivers,  the  3Iissouri,  Mississippi,  and  St.  Lawrence, 
and  to  the  Texan  coast. 

The  mountain  masses  towards  the  Pacific  form  no  serious  barrier 
between  them  and  that  ocean. 

No  portion  of  their  whole  sweep  of  surface  is  more  thari  lOOO  miles 
from  the  most  facile  navigation.  The  prospect  is  everywhere  gently  undu- 
lating and  graceful,  being  bounded,  as  on  the  ocean,  by  the  horizon. 
Storms  are  rare,  except  during  the  melting  of  the  snows  upon  the  crest  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  climate  is  comparatively  rainiest;  the  rivers  serve,  like  the  Nile, 
to  irrigate  rather  than  drain  the  neighboring  surface,  and  have  few  afflu- 
ents. They  all  run  from  iccst  to  east,  having  beds  shallow  and  broad,  a!id 
the  basins  through  which  they  flow  are  flat,  hmg,  and  narrow.  The  area 
of  the  "  Great  Plains"  is  e(|uivalent  to  the  surface  of  the  twenty-four 
States  between  the  Mississippi  and  the  Atlantic  Sea.    They  are  one  homo- 

71 


i 

m 


:ti^; 


•li'i 


72  PASTOIiAL    AMERICA. 

gcncous  formation,  smooth,  uniform,  and  continuous,  without  a  single 
abrui)t  mountain,  timl)cred  space,  desert,  or  hike. 

From  their  ample  dimensions  and  position  they  define  themselves  to  he 
the pdntiirr-jit/ffs  (if  thf  world.  Upon  them  I'ASTOHAl,  AOUlCLLTLllE  will 
become  :i  separate  grand  department  of  continental  industry. 

The  ])astonil  characteristic,  being  novel  to  our  people,  needs  a  miimte 
explanation.  In  traversing  the  continent  from  the  Atlantic  hcch  to  the 
South  Pass,  the  point  of  greatest  altitude  and  remoteness  from  the  sea,  we 
cross  successively  the  timbered  region,  the  prairie  region  of  .soft  soil  and 
long  annual  gras.scs,  and  finally  the  Great  Plains.  The  two  first  are  irri- 
gated by  the  rains  coming  from  the  sea,  and  are  araUe. 

The  last  is  rainless,  of  a  compact  soil  resisting  the  plow,  and  is,  there- 
fore, 2>o-'<toral.  The  herbage  is  peculiarly  adaj)ted  to  the  climate  and  the 
dryness  of  the  soil  and  atmosphere,  and  is  perenni(d.  It  is  edible  and 
nutritious  throughout  the  year.  This  is  the  "  gramvia,'  or  "  buffalo  grass." 
It  covers  the  ground  one  inch  in  height,  has  the  appearance  of  a  delicate 
moss,  and  its  leaf  has  the  fineness  and  .spiral  texture  of  a  negro's  hair. 

During  the  melting  of  the  snows  in  the  immense  mountain  nuusses  on 
the  western  frontier  of  the  Great  Plains,  the  rivers  swell  like  the  Nile, 
and  yield  a  copious  evaporation  in  their  long  sinuous  courses  across  the 
Plains :  storm-clouds  gather  on  the  summits,  roll  down  the  mountain 
flanks,  and  discharge  them.selves  in  vernal  showers.  During  this  tempo- 
rary prevalence  of  moist  atmosphere  these  delicate  gras.ses  grow,  seed  in 
the  root,  and  are  cured  into  hay  iqyon  the  ground  by  the  gradually  return- 
ing drouth. 

It  is  this  longitudinal  belt  of  perennial  pa.sture  upon  which  the  buffalo 
finds  his  vinter  food,  dwelling  upon  it  without  regard  to  latitude,  and  here 
are  the  infinite  herds  of  aboriginal  cattle  peculiar  to  North  America — 
buffalo,  wild  horses,  elk,  antelope,  white  and  black-tailed  deer,  mountain 
.sheep,  the  gri.sly  bear,  wolves,  the  hare,  badger,  porcupine,  and  smaller 
animals  innumerable. 

The  aggregate  number  of  this  cattle,  by  calculation  from  .sound  data, 
exceeds  one  hundred  million.  No  annual  fires  ever  sweep  over  the  Great 
Plains  ;  the.se  are  confined  to  the  Prairie  region. 

The  Great  Plains  also  swarm  with  poultry — the  turkey,  the  mountain 
cock,  the  prairie  cock,  sage  chickens,  the  sand-hill  crane,  the  curlew. 
Water-fowl  of  every  variety,  the  swan,  goose,  brant,  diicks.  Marmots,  the 
armadillo,  the  peccary,  reptiles,  the  horned  frog.  Birds  of  prey,  eagles, 
vultures,  the  raven,  and  the  small  birds  of  gjuue  and  song.  The  streams 
abound  in  fish.     Dogs  and  demi-wolves  abouiul. 

The  immense  population  of  nomadic  Indians,  lately  a  million  in  num- 


PASTORAL   AMERICA. 


73 


ly  a  million  in  num- 


ber, have,  from  inimeniorial  antiquity,  subsisted  exclusively  upon  those 
aborijiinal  herds.  They  are  unacijuainted  with  any  kind  of  agriculture  or 
the  habitual  use  of  vegetable  food  or  fruits. 

From  this  source  the  Indian  draws  exclusively  his  food,  his  lodge,  hia 
fuel,  harness,  clothing,  bed,  his  ornaments,  weapons,  and  utensils.  line 
Is  hi.i  aohi  dcpeuilena;  from  the  heginning  to  the  end  of  his  exisfeiwe. 
The  innumerable  carnivorous  animals  also  subsist  upon  them.  The  buft'alo 
alone  have  appeared  to  me  as  numerous  as  the  American  people,  and  to 
inhabit  as  uniformly  as  large  u  space  of  country.  The  buflalo  robe  at  once 
suggests  his  adaptability  to  a  winter  climate. 

The  Great  Plains  embrace  a  very  ample  proportion  of  arahk  soil  for 
farms.  'Y\\Q  ^^  bottoms'  of  the  rivers  are  very  broad  and  level,  having 
only  a  few  inches  of  elevation  above  the  waters,  which  descend  by  a  rapid 
and  even  current.  They  may  be  easily  and  cheaply  saturated  by  all  the 
various  systems  of  artificial  irrigation,  azequias,  artesian  wells,  or  floo  !- 
iiig  by  machinery. 

Under  this  treatment  the  soils,  being  alluvial  and  calcareous,  both  from 
the  sulphate  and  carbonate  formations,  return  a  prodigious  yield,  and  are 
independent  of  the  seasons.  Kvery  variety  of  grain,  grass,  vegetable,  the 
grape  and  fruits,  flax,  hemp,  cotton,  and  the  flora,  under  a  perpetual 
sun,  and  irrigated  at  the  root,  attain  extraordinary  vigor,  flavor,  and 
beauty. 

The  Great  Plains  abound  in  fuel,  and  the  materials  for  dwellings  and 
fencing.  Bituminous  coal  is  everywhere  intcrstratitied  with  the  calcareous 
and  sandstone  formation  ;  it  is  also  abundant  in  the  flanks  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  is  everywhere  conveniently  accessible.  The  dung  of  the  buffalo 
is  scattered  everywhere. 

The  order  of  vegetable  growth  being  reversed  bv  the  ar'dity  of  the 
atmosphere,  what  show  above  as  the  merest  bushes,  radiate  themselves 
deep  into  the  eartli,  and  form  below  an  immense  arborescent  growth. 
Fuel  of  wood  is  found  by  digging. 

Plaster  and  lime,  limestone,  freestone,  clay,  and  sand,  exist  within  the 
area  of  almost  every  acre.  The  large  and  economical  adobe  brick,  hard- 
ened in  the  sun  and  without  fire,  supersedes  other  materials  for  walls  and 
fences  in  this  dry  atmosphere,  and,  as  in  Syia  and  Egj'pt,  resists  decay 
for  centuries.  The  dwellings  thus  constructed  are  most  healthy,  being 
impervious  to  heat,  cold,  damp,  and  wind. 

The  climate  of  the  Great  Plains  is  favorable  to  health,  longevity,  intel- 
lectual and  physical  development,  and  stinmlative  of  an  exalted  tone  of 
.'ocial  civilization  and  refinement. 

The  American  people  and  their  ancestral  European  people  have  dwelt 


74 


PASTORAL    AMERICA. 


Ill 


for  many  thousand  years  oxclusivcly  in  countries  of  tinihcr  and  within 
the  regio'i  of  tlio  mtiritlmc  atniospliere :  when;  winter  ai.nihihites  all  ve<re- 
tatidu  annually  for  half  the  year:  where  all  animal  food  must  lie  sustained, 
fed,  and  fattened  hy  tillajre  with  the  ]p1ow  :  where  the  tsa'tial  neeessities 
of  existence,  food,  clothinji,  fuel,  and  dwellings,  are  secured  oidy  hy  con- 
stant and  intense  uuuiual  toil.  , 

To  this  peoj)le  /irrrfi>/ore,  the  immense  empire  of  pasforaf  (trpicn/finr. 
ut  the  threshold  of  which  we  have  arrived,  has  been  as  completely  a  hlank. 
as  was  the  present  condition  of  social  development  on  the  Atlantic  Ocean 
and  the  American  Continent,  to  the  ordinary  thoughts  of  the  antiipie 
Greeks  and  Romans. 

Hence  this  immense  world  of  plains  and  mountains ;  occupying  three- 
fifths  of  our  continent ;  so  novel  to  them  and  so  exactly  contradictory  in 
every  feature  to  the  existing  prejudices,  routine,  and  economy  of  society, 
is  unanimously  pronounced  an  vnlnhahltahle  desert. 

To  any  reversal  of  such  a  judgment,  the  unanimous  public  opinion,  the 
rich  and  poor,  the  wise  and  ignorant,  the  famous  and  obscure,  agree  to 
oppose  unanimously  a  dogmatic  and  universal  deafness.  To  them,  the 
delineations  of  travellers,  elsewhere  intelligent,  are  here  tinged  with 
lunacy  ;  the  science  of  geography  is  befogged;  the  sublime  order  of  Crea- 
tion no  longer  holds,  and  the  supreme  engineering  of  God  is  at  i'.tult  and 
a  chaos  of  blunders  ! 

The  P.  .STORAL  Region  is  longitudinal.  The  bulk  of  it  is  under  the 
Tempera' J  Zone,  out  of  which  it  runs  into  the  Arctic  Zone  on  the  north, 
and  Into  the  Tropical  Zone  on  the  south.  The  parallel  Atlantic  andde 
aiA  maritime  region  flanks  it  on  the  east ;  that  of  the  Pacific  on  the  west. 
The  Great  Plains,  then,  at  once  separate  and  bind  together  these  flanks, 
rounding  o-it  both  the  variety  and  compactness  of  arrangement  in  the  ele- 
mentary details  of  society,  ttJiich  enables  a  continent  to  govern  itself  with 
the  same  ease  as  a  single  city.* 

*■  Such  an  internal  adjustment  of  society,  expanding  itself  uniformly  over  the 
whole  area  of  the  continent,  accompanies  incidentally  and  of  necessity  its  grand 
architecture. 

The  physical  anatomy,  auspicious  and  consistent  in  all  its  details,  the  intense  range 
of  variety,  the  neighborhood  and  compactne.»s  of  these  elements  so  various  in  configu- 
ration, warmth,  altitude,  and  production,  all  conspire  to  dictate  fusion  and  order. 
They  correct  and  render  impossible  what  is  hostile  and  opposite  to  them. 

The  contciiliuiialitica  which  anticipate  tumult  will  assert,  establish,  and  perpetuate 
themselves. 

The  experiences  of  history  arm  us  with  precedents  for  our  guidance,  and  instruct 
our  judgments.  They  predict  for  us  a  wholesome  employment  of  our  energies,  accom- 
panied by  a  subtle  and  zealous  dii-ciplinc  competent  to  anticipate  and  to  restrain 
disorder. 


rrangcmont  in  the  ele- 
t  to  govern  itself  with 


PASTORAL   AMEIlfCA.  75 

Assiuninfr,  then,  that  tlie  advaiiciiijiuohiinn  of  progress,  having  roaohcil 
nnilt'stalilisliL'd  itsolf'in  force  all  along  the  easte'-n  froiitof  the  frnnf  I'/niiis, 
from  Jjonisianu  to  Minnesota  :  having,  also,  junijied  over  and  flanked  them 
to  oeeujiy  California  and  Oregon  : — 

Assuming  that  this  eolnmn  is  ahont  to  dehoiich  to  the  front  and  ocenpy 
them  with  tlie  embodied  inipulse  of  our  y(/i'_y  millions  of  population  :  liere- 
tufore  seattere<l  uj)on  the  flanks,  but  now  converging  into  jihalanx  upon 
the  centre :  some  reflections,  legitimately  made,  may  cheer  the  tiiniil,  and 
confirm  those  who  hesitate  from  old  opinion  and  the  prejudices  of  adverse 
education. 

It  is  well  established  that  six-tenths  of  the  food  of  the  human  family  ia, 
or  ought  to  be,  animal  food,  the  result  of  jMistoral  agriculture.  The  cattle 
of  the  world  consume  eight  times  the  food  per  head,  as  compared  with 
the  human  family.  Meat,  milk,  butter,  cheese,  poultry,  eggs,  wool,  leather, 
honey,  are  the  productions  of  pastoral  agriculture.  Fish  is  the  sponta- 
neous production  of  the  water. 

Nine-tenths  of  the  labor  of  arahle  culture  is  expended  to  produce  the 
grain  and  gra.sses  that  sustain  the  present  supplies  to  the  world  of  the 
above  enumerated  articles  of  the  pustornl  order.  If,  then,  a  country  can 
be  found  where  pustoral  jjroduce  is  sponttnieomly  sustained  by  nature,  as 
fish  in  the  ocean,  it  is  manifest  that  arable  labor,  being  reduced  to  the  pro- 
duction of  bread  food  oidy,  nniy  condense  itself  to  a  very  small  percent- 
age of  its  present  volume,  and  the  cultivated  ground  devoted  to  grain  and 
grass  be  greatly  reduced  in  acres. 

By  the  census  of  1850,  tlic  pastoral  cnltnre  of  the  American  people 
resulting  exclusively  from  the  plow,  exhibits  the  following  aggregate : — ■ 

Cattle  of  all  kinds 18,378,907 

Horses  and  mules 4,80r),0,'>0 

Sheep 21,722,220 

Swine 30,334,213 

Value $655,883,658 

It  is  probable  that  the  aggregate  ahoriginal  stock  of  the  Great  Plains 
still  exceeds  in  amount  the  above  table.  It  is  all  spontaneously  supported 
by  nature,  as  is  the  fish  of  the  sea. 

Every  kind  of  our  domestic  animals  flourishes  upon  the  Greai  Plains 
equally  Avell  with  the  wild  ones.  Three  tame  animals  may  be  substituted 
for  every  wild  one,  and  vast  territories  re-occupied,  from  which  the  wild 

The  ancient  discordances  between  urban  and  rural  populations,  manners,  and  tem- 
per, will  find  their  asperities  mutually  modified.  Society,  rectified  by  reflection  from 
the  propitious  powers  of  Nature,  will  insensibly  ascend  to  an  exalted  level,  illustrating 
the  perpetual  dominance  and  activity  of  peace,  industri/,  and  concord. 


I 


76 


PASTORAL    AMRKICA. 


Illl 


stock  lias  been  cxfenninatcd  by  indiseriininatc  sliiuglitcr  and  the  inc^aso 
of  tlic  Wolves. 

The  American  peo[ile  are  about,  then,  to  inaugurate  a  novel  and  immense 
order  of  industrial  jnoductioii :  Pastoral  AauiciLTUUE. — Its  fields  will 
be  the  (IikU  /Va(';M  intermediate  between  the  oceans.  Once  commenced, 
\t  will  di'Veloj)  very  rajiidly. 

We  trace  in  their  history  the  successive  inauguration  and  sy.stematic 
growth  of  several  of  these  distinct  orders :  The  tohaccn  culture,  the  rlcn 
culture,  the  cottou  culture,  the  innnense  provision  culture  of  cereals  and 
VKiifs,  friil/irr  and  uoiifj  thc'/oA/  culture,  ((((c/y^//'^/;  external  and  internal, 
cotiiitieire  ^'xternal  and  internal,  tmnspuftdtion  by  land  and  water,  the  hemj) 
culture,  t\ic  Jis/teri'es,  munHfuctum. 

Each  of  these  has  arisen  as  time  has  ripened  tbe  necessity  for  each,  and 
noiselessly  taken  and  fillud  its  appropriate  place  in  the  general  economy 
of  our  iiii/imtriiil  empire. 

This  fuiHtoral  property  transports  itself  on  the  hoof,  and  finds  its  food 
ready  furni.shed  by  nature.  In  these  elevated  countries  fresh  meats  becoyie 
the  preferable  food  for  man,  to  the  exclusion  of  bread,  vegetables,  and 
salted  articles. 

The  atmosjdiere  of  the  Great  Ploiiin  is  perpetually  brilliant  with  sun- 
shine, tonic,  healthy,  pungent,  and  inspiring  to  the  temper.  It  corrcsjxmds 
with  and  surpasses  the  historic  climate  of  Syria  and  Arabia,  from  whence 
we  inherit  all  that  is  ethereal  and  refined  in  our  .system  of  civilization,  our 
religion,  our  sciences,  our  alphabet,  our  numerals,  our  written  languages, 
our  articles  of  food,  our  learning,  and  our  system  of  social  manners. 

As  the  site  for  a  great  central  metropolitan  city  of  the  "  Basin  of  the 
Mississippi"  to  arise  prospectively  upon  the  developments  now  maturing, 
Kansas  City,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kansas  Kiver,  has  the  start,  the  geo- 
gi'aphical  position,  and  the  existing  elements  with  which  any  rival  will 
contend  in  vain. 

It  is  the  focal  point  where  three  developments,  now  near  ripeness,  will 
&nd  t\w\T  river  jwrt.  1.  The  pastoral  development.  2.  The  gold,  silver, 
and  salt  production  of  the  Sierra  San  Juan.  3.  The  continental  railroad 
from  the  Pacific. 

These  great  fields  of  enterprise  will  all  be  recognized  and  understood  by 
the  popular  mind,  and  will  be  under  vigorous  headway  within  the  mature 
life  of  the  existing  generation. 

There  must  be  a  great  city  here,  such  as  antiquity  built  at  the  head  of 
the  IMediterranean  and  named  Jerusalem,  Tyre,  Alexandria,  and  Constan- 
tinople ;  such  as  our  own  people  name  New  York,  New  Orlean3,  San  Fran- 
cisco, St.  Louis. 


nil  i 


':M^m.mmtm<mm^ 


alitor  and  the  inc^aso 

0  a  uovcl  and  ininicnso 
t.TiKK. — It.s  fields  will 
Once  coniineneed, 

iratldii  and  systematic 
'kiccd  enltiire,  the  /•/(•'' 
culture  (if  virrnk  and 
■xternal  and  internal, 
id  and  water,  the  hemp 

necessity  for  each,  and 
1  the  general  economy 

oof,  and  finds  its  food 
•ies  fresh  meats  hecoijio 
bread,  vegetables,  and 

dly  brilliant  with  sun- 
semper.  It  corresponds 
1  Arabia,  from  whence 
tem  of  civilization,  our 
our  written  languages, 
f  social  manners, 
of  the  "  HiikIii  of  the 
ftments  now  maturing, 
has  the  start,  tlie  geo- 
I  which  any  rival  will 

low  near  ripeness,  will 
.  2.  The  gold,  silver, 
lie  continental  railroad 

zed  and  understood  by 
vay  within  the  mature 

y  built  at  the  head  of 
xandria,  and  Constan- 
ew  Orlean3,  San  Fran- 


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researches  ii 
awed  by  the 
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The  Moi 
the  most  stii 
innumerabk 
nificance. 

These  arc 
their  s(jurc( 
battlements 

Each  is  I 
rectitude  o: 
mountains, 
generous  w 

In  the  h 
tinents,  the 
wanting,  or 
in  Asia:  C 
These  bowl 
tion. 

The  Tai 
of  superlat 

KADO. 

This  Sys 
Mortised  c 
tcned  cone 
surround  t 
radiate  to  i 

Here  is 
America ! 


CHAPTER   VIII. 


THE   SYSTEM   OF   THE  PARCS. 


In  proportion  as  curiosity,  warmed  by  the  expanding  energy  of  pro- 
gress now  every  wliere  palpitating  with  activity  and  fresh  fire,  extends  our 
researches  into  every  detail  of  our  entire  country,  we  are  astonished  and 
awed  by  the  splendid  magnitude  of  its  architecture,  and  by  the  I'aultlesa 
grace  and  consistency  of  its  anatomy. 

The  Mountain  System  sparkles  everywhere,  and  is  checkered  with 
the  most  startling  beauties.  The  special  recurrence  of  Parcs,  which  are 
innumerable,  and  are  lavishly  scattered  over  its  area,  has  pre-eminent  sij^- 
nificance. 

These  are  charming  valleys,  accompanying  the  rivers.  They  surround 
their  s(jurces,  or  expand  from  their  channels,  between  the  mountain 
battlements,  among  which  they  flow. 

Each  is  an  amphitheatre.  They  maintain  everywhere  an  undeviating 
rectitude  of  pn^portion,  fitted  in  size  to  the  volume  of  the  rivers  and 
mountains.  Fertility  and  enchandng  scenery  mark  them  all.  The  most 
generous  woalth  of  streams  and  vegetation  are  unfailing. 

In  the  latitudinal  courses  of  the  mountain  structures  of  the  other  con- 
tinents, the  favorable  sunshine  being  absent,  this  form  of  valleys  is  either 
wanting,  or  they  are  unattractive.  Those  known  to  fame,  are  Kashmere 
in  Asia :  Constance  and  Geneva,  encased  within  the  Alps  of  Europe. 
These  bowls  are  occupied  by  water  surfaces,  :md  are  unfitted  for  habita- 
tion. 

The  Parcs  of  the  North  American  Andes  find  their  culmination 
of  superlative  gi-andeur  in  the  System  of  the  Four  Parcs  of  Colo- 
rado. 

This  System  towers  over  and  crowns  the  whole  Continental  structure. 
Mortised  down,  many  thousand  feet,  into  the  ample  expanse  of  the  flat- 
tened cone,  encircled  by  all  the  other  North  American  mountains,  they 
surround  the  sources  and  shed  out  all  the  grand  arterial  rivers,  which 
radiate  to  all  the  seas. 

Here  is  the  supreme  dome,  which  surmounts  the  heart  of  North 
America ! 

77 


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MAP 

1 11 II  si  I'M  lino    II  u»'  >^ 

S  rSTEM  OF  i»Aau\s 

I 

//if 

BmESM RELATIONS  Of  TmQmT PLAm, 
IHK  XOin  11  AMKUICAi  ANDES, 

UIhI   lli(> 

PACIFIC  MARATmE  rtRONT. 


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CHOCTAW 


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78 


THE  SYSTEM   OF   THE  PAllCS. 


Favored  by  tlioir  immense  dimensions,  rad  screened  by  an  uninhr- 
rupted  envelopo  of  primary  mountain  edifices  ;  the  climatic  elements 
happily  balanccjd  ;  j^ive  to  their  atmosphere  a  i)eri>etual  venial  temperature ; 
intense  serenity  and  the  most  gorgeous  splendor. 

They  are  bisrctcil  successively,  through  and  through,  by  tlie  o«e  Iiun- 
drcil  and  sixth  meridian. 

Each  one  siiii/fy  is  of  marvellous  size,  excellence  of  form,  and  eminent 
beauty. 

Th(!  group,  as  they  are  blended  into  one  system,  '?  miraculous!  This 
springs  from  its  dominating  continental  position:  from  the  juxtaposition: 
from  the  immediate  contact :  from  the  intense  variety  and  supreme  grace 
illustrating  every  detail  and  i)ervading  the  entire  structure. 

Kestricted  especially  to  the  System  of  the  Fouk  Paucs  of  Colo- 
rado, the  S<iit  Luis  Pare  is  readily  entered  at  the  extreme  north 
through  the  Puncho  Pa.ss,  penetrating  the  Cordillera  from  the  Arkansiis 
Kiver.  This  pare,  of  ellii)tical  form,  and  immense  dimensions,  is  envel- 
oped between  the  Cordillera  and  Sierra  Mind)res. 

It  has  its  extreme  northern  point  between  these  two  Sierras,  where  they 
separate  l)y  a  sharp  angle  and  diverge ;  the  former  to  the  southeast,  and 
the  latter  to  the  southwest. 

The  latitude  of  the  Puncho  Pass  is  38°  30',  the  longitude  100°.  It  is 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  saiithccst  from  Denver,  and  thirty- 
seven  miles  due  icest  from  Caiion  City. 

Emerging  from  the  Puncho  Pass,  tlic  waters  begin  to  gather  and  form 
the  Sun  Luis  Jiivo:  This  flows  to  the  south,  through  a  valley  of  great 
beauty,  which  rajiidly  widens  to  the  right  and  left. 

On  the  east  flank,  the  Cordillera  ascends  abruptly  and  continuously, 
without  any  foot-hills,  to  a  sharp,  snowy  summit.  On  the  west,  foot- 
hills and  secondary  mountains,  rising  one  above  the  other,  entangle  the 
whole  space  of  the  Sierra  Mimbres. 

The  Sawatch  River  has  its  source  on  the  inner  (eastcni)  fhmk  of  the 
Sierra  Mimbres,  about  sixty  miles  south  of  its  angle  of  divergence  from 
the  Cordillera,  and,  by  a  course  nearly  east,  converges  toward  the  lower 
San  Luis  Eiver.     It  enters  upon  the  pare  by  a  similar  valley. 

These  two  valleys  expand  into  one  another  around  this  mass  of  foot- 
hills, fusing  into  the  open  pare,  whose  centre  is  here  occupied  by  the  *S'"/( 
Luis  lAthc,  into  which  the  two  rivers  converge  and  discharge  their  waters. 

The  San  Luis  Lake,  extending  south  from  the  point  of  the  foot-hills, 
occupies  the  centre  of  the  pare  for  sixty  miles.  It  forms  a  boid  without 
any  outlet  to  its  waters.  It  is  encircled  by  immense  saturated  savannas 
of  luxuriant  grass. 


THE  SYSTEM    OF   THE  PAllCS. 


(9 


Its  water  surface  expands  over  this  sncnnna  during  the  season  of  tlie 
multiiin'  snows  upon  the  Sierras,  and  shrinks  when  the  season  of  evapora- 
tion returns.  From  the  flaiilvs  of  the  Cordillera  on  the  east,  at  intervals 
ijf  six  or  eiu'ht  miles  asunder,  and  at  very  e((ual  distauw^, /uitrtecn  streams 
other  than  the  San  Luis,  descend  and  converge  into  the  San  Luis  Luke. 

The  belt  of  the  sloping  plain  between  the  mountains  and  the  lake,  trav- 
ersed by  so  many  parallel  streams,  bordered  by  meadows  and  groves  of 
cottduwood-trees,  has  from  this  feature  the  name  of  "  Los  Alamos,"  It 
is  sixty  miles  in  length  and  twenty  wide. 

On  the  opposite  (^western)  side  from  the  flank  of  the  Sierra  ^Mimbres, 
similar  streams  descend  from  the  west  into  the  lake,  known  as  the  Sa- 
Kutcli,  the  Oinicro,  and  the  (rarcfa. 

Tiio  confluent  streams  thus  converging  into  the  San  Luis  Lake  are  iiine- 
(ei'ii  ill  luunbor.  The  area  thus  occupii;d  by  this  isolated  lake  and  drained  into 
it  by  its  converging  affluents,  forming  distinctly  one-tliird  of  the  whole 
surface  of  the  pare,  is  classified  under  the  general  name  of  ''  lUncon." 

Advancing  onward  to  the  south  along  the  west  edge  of  the  plain,  ten 
miles,  from  the  Gareta,  the  Eio  del  Norte  Iliver  issues  from  its  mountain 
gorge.  Its  .source  is  in  the  perpetual  snows  of  the  peaks  of  the  San  Juan., 
the  local  name  given  to  this  stupendous  culmination  of  the  Sierra 
Miiiibres. 

The  Del  Norte  flows  from  its  extreme  source  due  east  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles,  and  having  reached  the  longitudinal  middle  o'.'  \.\\c  pare,  turns 
abruptly  south,  and,  bisecting  the  pare  for  perhaps  one  hundred  and  fifty 
mi/if,  pas.ses  beyond  its  rim  in  its  course  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

All  the  streams  descending  from  the  enveloping  Sierras  (other  than  tlie 
Alamos)  converge  into  it  their  tributary  waters.  On  the  west  come  in 
successively  the  Pi'ntada,  the  Bio  del  G.cfa,  the  liio  de  la  Gam,  the 
CoiKJos,  the  San  Antonio  and  Piedra. 

These  streams,  six  or  eight  miles  asunder,  parallel,  equidistant,  fed 
by  the  snows  of  the  Sierra  MimLres,  have  abundant  waters,  very  fertile 
areas  of  land,  and  are  all  of  the  very  highest  order  of  beauty. 

Advancing  again  from  the  Rineon,  at  the  eastern  edge  of  the  plain 
along  the  base  of  the  Cordillera,  the  prodigious  conical  mass  of  the  Sierra 
Blniica  protrudes  like  a.  vast  hemisphere  into  the  plain  and  blocks  the 
vision  to  the  direct  south.  The  road  describes  the  arc  of  a  semicircle 
ai'oiiiid  its  ba.se  for  thirty  miles  and  reaches  Fort  Garland. 

In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Fcn-t  Garland,  the  three  large  streams,  the 
Yuta,  the  Sangre  de  Cristo,  and  the  Triuchera,  descend  from  the  Cor- 
dillera, converge,  unite  a  few  miles  west,  and,  bleiiding  themselves  in  the 
Triuchera,  flow  west  twenty-four  miles  into  the  llio  del  Norte. 


^^i 


80 


THE  SYSTEM   OF    THE   PAIICS. 


The  lino  of  the  snowy  Cordillera,  hidden  behind  the  bulk  of  the  S!<rni 
Blanca,  here  again  reveals  itself  pursuing  its  regular  sunthcast  course  and 
direction.  Fourteen  miles  south  is  reached  the  town  of  San  Lni\s,  upon 
the  Ciilehrti  River ;  seventeen  miles  farther  is  the  town  of  Coitilfa,  upon 
Costilla  River. 

Fifteen  miles  farther  the  town  of  Bit  o  Colorado  is  reached :  elylitxn  miles 
farther  onward  the  Arroyo  Hondo  (between  these  is  the  San  Cristoval ) ; 
from  the  Arroyo  Hondo  to  Taos  is  fourteen  miles;  twenty  miles  beyond 
Taos  is  the  mountain  chain  whose  circle  towards  the  west  forms  the 
southern  mountain  barrier  which  encloses  the  San  Luis  Pare  in  that 
direction. 

The  San  Litis  Pare  is  then  an  immense  elliptical  bowl,  the  bed  of  a 
primeval  sea  which  has  been  drained  :  its  bottom,  smooth  as  a  water  sur- 
face, and  concave,  is  9400  square  miles  in  area.  It  is  watered  by  thirtj- 
five  mountain  streams,  which,  descending  from  the  encircling  crest  of 
snow,  converge  nineteen  into  the  San  Luis  Lake,  the  rest  into  the  Rio  del 
Norte. 

An  extraordinary  symmetry  of  configuration  is  its  prominent  feature. 
The  scenery,  everywhere  sublime,  has  the  ever-changing  variety  of  the 
kaleidoscope.  Entirely  around  the  edge  of  the  plain,  and  closing  the 
junction  of  the  plain  with  the  mountain's  foot,  runs  a  smooth  glacis, 
exactly  resembling  the  sea-beach  which  accompanies  the  conjunction  of 
the  land  with  the  ocean. 

From  this  heacli  rise  continuously,  all  around  the  horizon,  the  great 
mountains,  elevating  their  heads  above  the  line  of  perpetual  snow.  On 
the  eastern  side  the  escarpment  of  the  Cordillera  rises  rapidly,  and  is 
abrupt ;  on  the  ivestern  side  the  crest  of  the  Sierra  Mimhres  is  more  re- 
mote, having  the  interval  filled  with  ridges,  lessening  in  altitude  as  they 
descend  to  the  plain  of  the  pare. 

This  continuous  shelving  flank  of  the  Sierras,  completing  a  perfect 
amphitheatre,  has  a  superficial  area  equal  to  that  of  the  level  plain  which 
ii  envelopes,  and  gives  to  the  whole  enclosure  within  the  encircling  band 
of  snow  an  area  of  18,000  square  miles. 

At  an  elevation  of  five  or  six  thousand  feet  above  the  plain,  a  level  line 
upon  the  mountain  wall  marks  the  cessation  of  arborescence,  above  which 
naked  granite  and  snow  alone  are  .seen. 

To  one  who  ascends  to  this  elevation  at  any  point,  the  whole  interior 
of  this  prodigious  amphitheatre,  displaying  an  elliptical  area  of  1 1 ,520,000 
acres,  is  scanned  by  the  eye  and  swept  in  at  a  single  glance.  Aided  by  a 
glass,  the  smallest  objects  scattered  over  the  immense  elliptical  area  beneath 
are  discernible  through  the  limpid,  brilliant,  and  translucent  atmosphere. 


THE  SYSTEM   OF    THE  PARCS. 


81 


bulk  of  the  Sierra 
iiif/iatsf  course  und 
of  S(tn  Luis,  upon 
n  of  Costilla,  upon 

hed :  eighteen  iiiilofj 
he  San  Cristoval ) ; 
enty  miles  beyond 
le  west  forms  the 
Luis  Pare  ill  that 

30wl,  the  bed  of  a 
oth  as  a  water  sur- 
watered  by  thirly- 
ncircling  crest  of 
3t  into  the  Rio  del 

prominent  feature. 
;ing  variety  of  the 
1,  and  closing  the 
a  smooth  glacis, 
he  conjunction  of 

horizon,  the  great 
petual  snow.  On 
es  rapidly,  and  is 
imbres  is  more  re- 
in altitude  as  they 

iipleting  a  perfect 

level  plain  which 

le  encircling  band 

1  plain,  a  level  line 
snce,  above  which 

he  whole  interior 
rea  of  11,520,000 
nee.  Aided  by  a 
)tical  area  beneath 
icent  atmosphere. 


Two  facts  impress  themselves  upon  tlie  senses :  the  perfect  symmetry 
of  configuration  in  nature,  and  the  intense  variety  in  the  form  and  sjjlen- 
d(ir  of  the  landscape.  The  colors  of  the  sky  and  atniosjihere  are  intensely 
vivid  and  gorgeous ;  the  dissolving  tints  of  light  and  shade  are  forever 
intorcliaiiging  ;  they  are  as  infinite  as  are  the  altering  angles  of  the  solar 
ravs  in  his  diurnal  circuit. 

Tlie  average  elevation  of  the  plain  above  the  sea-level  is  G-lOO  feet. 
Tlic  highest  peaks  have  an  altitude  of  1(5,000  feet  above  the  sea.  In  the 
serrated  rim  of  the  pare,  as  seen  from  the  plain,  jtrojected  against  the 
canopy,  are  discernible  seventeen  peaks,  at  very  equal  distances  from  one 
anotlier.  Each  one  differs  from  all  the  rest  in  some  j)eculiarity  of  shape 
and  position.  Each  one  identifies  it.self  by  some  striking  beauty.  From 
the  snows  of  each  one  descends  .some  considerable  river,  as  well  within  the 
pare,  as  outward  down  the  external  mountain  back. 

We  recognize,  therefore,  in  the  San  Luis  Pare  an  immense  elliptical 
basin,  envelojiing  the  .sources  of  the  Kio  Bravo  del  Norte.  It  is  isolated 
in  the  heart  of  the  continent,  1200  miles  from  any  sea.  It  is  mortised, 
as  it  were,  in  the  midst  of  the  vast  mountain  bulk,  where,  rising  gradu- 
ally from  the  oceans,  the  highest  altitude  and  amplitude  of  the  continent 
is  attained. 

This  pare  spreads  its  plain  from  3G°  to  38°  30',  cand  is  bisected  by  the 
lOGth  meridian.  Its  greatest  length  is  210  miles;  its  greatest  width  is 
10(1  miles  ;  its  aggregate  approximate  area  is  18,000  .square  miles. 

Such  being  the  gcoyrapliical  position,  altitude,  and  peculiar  unique  eon- 
figuration,  these  features  suggest  the  inquiry  into  parallel  peculiarities  of 
meteiirolorjfj,  geology,  physical  structure,  agriculture,  mineralogy,  and  the 
economy  of  labor. 

The  Anieri<  an  people  have  heretofore  developed  their  social  system  exclu- 
.sively  on  the  borders  of  the  two  oceans,  and  within  the  maritime  valleys 
of  moderate  altitude,  having  navigation  and  an  atmosphere  influenced  by 
the  sea.  To  them,  then,  the  contrast  is  complete  in  every  teature,  in  these 
high  and  remote  altitudes,  beyond  all  influence  of  the  ocean,  and  specially 
continental. 

There  is  an  identity  between  the  "  Valley  or  Pare  of  the  City  of 
Mexico"  and  the  San  Luis  Pare  which  ought  to  be  here  mentioned.  They 
are  similar  ticin  basins  of  the  great  Plateau,  classifying  together  in  the 
physical  structure  of  the  continent.  Mexico  is  in  latitude  20°,  longitude 
99°,  and  has  an  altitude  of  7500  feet. 

The  width  of  the  continent  is  here  575  miles  from  ocean  to  ocean,  and 
the  divergence  of  the  Cordilleras  is  275  miles,  which  here  is  the  width  of 
the  Plateau. 

6 


82 


THE  SYSTEM   OF   THE   PAIiCS. 


At  the  yOtli  ck'jireo,  the  continent  expands  to  a  width  of  U^OO  miles 
between  the  oceans ;  the  Cordilleras  have  diverj^ed  12U0  miles  asnnder, 
and  the  Platkau  has  widened  to  tlie  same  dimensions.  In  liannony  with 
tlie  great  expansion  of  tlie  continent  are  all  the  details  of  its  interiur 
structure. 

The  •'  J'aic  of  the  Q'ti/  of  Mexico"  is  but  one-tenth  in  size  and  ;^r;in- 
deur  as  compared  and  contrasted  witli  the  8an  Luis  Pare.  It  has  an  area, 
including  tlie  water  surface  of  five  lakes,  of  1,278,720  acres.  Of  identical 
anatomy,  the  former  is  a  pigmy  ;  the  latter  a  giant.  The  similitude  as  coni- 
])  'uent  parts  of  the  mountain  anatomy  is  in  all  respects  absolute,  as  is  also 
tiiie  of  the  other  pares,  which  occupy  longitudinally  the  centre  of  the 
State  of  Colorado. 

In  .METKOKOLOGY  the  atmo.«i)herie  condition  of  the  San  Luis  ])are,  like 
its  scenery,  is  one  of  constant  brilliancy,  both  by  day  and  nigiit ;  obey- 
ing steady  laws,  yet  alternating  with  a  playful  methodical  fickleness. 

There  are  no  prolonged  vernal  or  autumnal  seasons.  Summer  and  win- 
ter divide  the  year.  Both  are  characterized  by  mildness  of  temperature, 
A-fter  the  (iiittininal  c([uinox,  the  snows  begin  to  accumulate  on  the  moun- 
tains. After  the  vernal  equinox  they  dis.solve.  The  formation  of  light 
clouds  upon  the  crest  of  the  Sierras  is  incessant. 

The  meridian  sun  retains  its  vitalizing  heat  around  the  year ;  at  mid- 
night prevails  a  corresponding  tonie  coolness.  The  clouds  are  wafted  away 
by  steady  atmospheric  currents  coming  from  the  west.  They  rarely  inter- 
rupt the  sunshine,  but,  refracting  his  rays,  imbue  the  canopy  with  a  sliining 
silver  light,  at  once  intense  and  brilliant.  The  atmospliere  and  climate 
arc  essentially  cuntinental,  being  uninterruptedly  salubrious,  brilliant,  and 
tonie. 

The  flanks  of  the  great  mountains,  bathed  by  the  embrace  of  these  irri- 
gating clouds,  are  clad  with  great  forests  of  pine,  fir,  spruce,  hemlock, 
aspen,  oak,  cedar,  pifion,  and  a  variety  of  smaller  fruiL-trees  and  shrubs, 
which  protect  the  sources  of  the  springs  and  rivulets. 

Among  the  forests,  alternate  mountain  meadows  of  luxuriant  and 
nutritious  grass.  The  ascending  clouds,  rarely  condensed,  furnish  little 
irrigation  at  the  depressed  elevation  of  the  plains,  which  are  destitute 
of  timber  but  clothed  in  grass.  These  delicate  grasses,  growing  rapidly 
during  the  annual  melting  of  the  snows,  cure  into  hay  as  the  aridity 
of  the  atmosphere  returns.  They  form  perennial  pastures,  and  supply 
the  winter  food  of  the  aboriginal  cattle,  everywhere  indigenous  and  abun- 


lant. 


An  infinite  variety  in  temper  and  temperature  is  suggested  as  flowing 
from  the  juxtaposition  of  extreme  altitudes  and  depressions ;  permanent 


snows,  runnii 
rivers.  Nat  i 
is  propitious 

The  foiifji/ 
anil  of  the  e\ 
suiinuits;  tin 

Within  th 
when  the  sun 
mlder  atmos 
atmospheres 
each  one  tem 

The  snows 
accumulation 
tion,  as  in  a 
manner  temp 
•stantly  main 
maturity. 

Storms  of 
uiiiforndy  d 
soothing  sen 
ually  exposec 
seen.  Moder 
tact  of  elem( 

The  critic 
scrutinizing 
variety  of  na 
healthy  aetit 

There  is 
health  and 
compelling  ] 
inhaled,  and 
the  atmosph 
rupted,  stim 
All  of  thes( 
salubrity  of 
tonic  taste  s 
petual  activi 
As  to  its 
degree  inter 
and  in  ordei 
science  and 


THE  SYSTEM   OF    THE  PAliCS. 


8:5 


ndth  of  9500  iiiilea 
1200  niilus  asunder, 
In  harmony  with 

jtails  of  itH  inti'iinr 

til  in  size  and  uran- 
'arc.  It  has  an  area, 
acres.  Of  idi'ntiual 
ic  similitude'  as  com- 
ts  absolute,  as  is  also 
y  the  centre  of  tlie 

;  San  Luis  pare,  like 
y  and  nijjiit ;  obey- 
lieal  fickleness. 

Summer  and  wiu- 
uess  of  temperature, 
nulate  on  the  moun- 
3  formation  of  light 

\  the  year ;  at  mid- 
uds  are  wafted  away 
.  They  rarely  inter- 
anopy  with  a  shining 
losphere  and  climate 
brious,  brilliant,  and 

mbrace  of  these  irri- 
[ir,  spruce,  hemlock, 
iiiL-trees  and  shrubs, 

s  of  luxuriant  and 
lensed,  furnish  little 
which  are  destitute 
ses,  growing  rapidly 
hay  as  the  aridity 
)astures,  and  supply 
adigenous  and  abun- 

mggested  as  flowing 
ressions ;  permanent 


gnows,  running  rivers,  and  the  coneentrie  courses  of  the  mountains  and 
rivers.  Nature  is  benignant  a.  graceful  throughout  her  wliole  plan,  and 
is  pro)iitious  in  the  working  of  all  her  laws  and  in  every  element. 

The  /oiii/itiiifiiKif  Sierras  receive  and  absorb  the  glory  of  the  morning 
and  of  the  evening  sun  upijii  their  fl:.iiks,  the  noontide  beams  upon  their 
summits ;  they  cast  no  chilling  shadow. 

Within  the  bowl  of  the  pare,  the  heat  of  the  shining  sun  accumulates; 
when  the  sun  has  .set,  this  heatud  atmosphere  ascends  ;  simultaneously  the 
colder  atmosphere  descends  from  the  engirdling  rim  of  snow.  These 
atmospheres  permeate  broadcast  the  one  the  other,  through  and  through  ; 
each  one  tempers  the  other  by  this  play  of  natural  transition. 

The  snows  of  the  altitudes  are  constantly  attacked  and  their  excessive 
accumulation  defeated  :  no  glaciers  form  to  enclose  the  rf)cks  and  vegeta- 
tion, as  in  a  perpetual  tomb.  The  heat  of  the  concave  jilaiii  is  in  a  1  e 
manner  tempered  to  a  genial  standard  ;  irrigation  and  the  streams  are  con- 
stantly maintained;  vegetation  con.stantly  and  as  unitbrmly  nuraired  d 
maturity. 

Storms  of  rain  and  wind  are  neither  fro(|uent  nor  lasting.  The  air  is 
uniforndy  dry,  having  a  racy  freshness  and  an  exhilarating  taste.  A 
soothing  serenity  is  the  prevailing  impression  upon  those  who  live  perpet- 
ually exposed  to  the  seasons.  Mud  is  never  anywhere  or  at  any  time 
seen.  3Ioderation  and  concord  appear  to  result  from  the  presence  and  con- 
tact of  elements  so  various. 

The  critical  coiu;lusions  to  which  a  rigid  study  of  nature  brings  the 
scrutinizing  mind  are  the  reverse  of  first  impressions.  The  multitudinous 
variety  of  nature  adjusts  it.self  with  a  delicate  harmony  wMch  brings  into 
healthy  action  the  imhixfriid  energies. 

There  is  no  use  for  the  practice  of  jirofessional  pharmacy.  Chronic 
health  and  longevity  characterize  animal  life.  The  envelope  of  cloud- 
compelling  peaks:  the  seclusion  from  the  oceans:  the  rarity  of  the  air 
inhaled,  and  tlie  absence  of  humidity:  disinfect  the  earth,  tlie  water,  and 
the  atmosphere  of  exhalations  and  niidswas.  Health,  .ound  and  uninter- 
rupted, stinudates  and  sustains  a  high  state  of  mental  and  physical  energy. 
All  of  these  are  burnished,  as  it  were,  by  the  perpetual  brilliancy  and 
salubrity  of  the  atmosphere  and  landscaj)e ;  whose  unfailing  beauty  and 
tonic  taste  stimulate  and  invite  the  physical  and  mental  energies  to  per- 
petual activity. 

As  to  its  GEOLOGY  and  minerals,  the  San  Luis  Pare  is  in  the  highest 
degree  interesting  and  remarkable.  It  is  found  to  contain,  intermingled 
and  in  order,  a  complete  epitome  of  all  the  elements  of  which  geological 
science  and  research  take  note.     Its  intramural  locality  between  the  jiri- 


84 


rUK  SYSTEM   Of    THE   I'AKCS. 


iiii'Viil  crests  (if  tlu!  ('(irdillora,  on  tlic  cKsf,  and  tlic  Sierra  .Miinlircs 
(In  re  (Mtlk'tl  tlu^  ••  Suit  Juan' ),  on  tlie  u:<nt,  iuiiUi|iliL'S  tliU  variety  iiiilel- 
initely. 

'I'lies(>  iin'nnin/  Sierras,  se)ianite(l  by  tlit;  ]iare,  face  (iiir  amttlier  in  full 
si^iit,  as  tliey  rear  their  flanivs  Irmii  tlie  (ipiidsite  edjjies  of  the  concave 
phiiu.  The  successive  |)o.  iods  a?id  stiijiendoiis  forces  whicli  liave  cxiicndcd 
themselves  to  jirodiiee  what  is  in  siuht,  and  then  subsided  to  an  ttcrnal 
rest.eacli  jiarlicularly  nianifiwts  itself         • 

'J'lie  ciiiitl)  <>/  t/ir  Si'crni  jiresents  the  j)rodijj:ious  jilates  of  jirluirnd 
jiorphyry  driven  u]),  as  the  sul)S()il  of  a  furrow,  from  the  lowest  teiTestrial 
crust  and  protrudinj;'  their  vertical  edp's  toward  the  sky. 

Till'  summit,  yielding  to  tins  corrodintr  forces.  ])res«'nts  a  wedj^o  toward 
the  canopy;  is  arranged  in  lu'aks  resemlilini:  the  teeth  of  a  .siw,  is  above 
all  arborescence,  and  is  either  c'ud  in  jierjietual  snow,  or  is  bald  rock. 

Again-st  this  is  lapped  perpendicularly  the  s«wond  stratum,  less  by  many 
thousand  feet  in  altitude,  its  top  forming  a  liinn  or  bench.  This  IkikIi 
being  the  rended  edge  of  tlm  erupt<'d  stratum,  softer  than  the  first  and 
receiving  the  debris  from  above,  has  a  deep,  fertile  soil,  a  luxuriant  (///////<■ 
vegetation,  forests  of  tir  and  aspen,  and  is  the  /ily/iist  region  of  arborescence 
and  vegetable  growth. 

This  is  the  region  (if  rocks,  when^  thci  metals,  rsjK'violli/  ijolil  tiiul  sifnr, 
ab(»und  in  crevices  charged  and  infused  with  the  richest  ort-s.  It  is  from 
hence  that  the  gold  of  the  gulches  is  disintegnitcd  and  descends.  Here 
are  springs  of  water  and  the  sources  of  rivei-s.  The  timber  is  excellent 
and  the  pastures  of  various  grassi>s  luxuriant  and  inexhaustible.  Swept 
by  a.scending  currents  of  vapor,  irrigation  is  constant. 

This  elevated  (tench  is  a  permanent  characteristic  of  the  mountain 
flank,  continuous  as  the  continent  Itmlf ;  a  colo.s.sal  stairca.se,  whose  step.s 
are  themselves  of  mountain  magnitude.  It  is  here,  at  these  surfaces  of 
contact  of  the  erupted  jilates  of  the  lowest  terrestrial  crust,  that  the 
thread  of  the  ^^  gold  belt'  is  revealed  and  found.  From  this  thread,  as 
friiuj  a  core  outward,  the  precious  metals  taper  in  quantity  and  become 
diluted  in  the  immensity  of  the  rocks,  as  a  hill  of  rock  salt  di.sapjiears 
to  the  eye,  dissolved  in  the  immensity  of  the  ocean. 

The  top  of  this  continuous  bench  is  undulating,  broad,  and  occasionally 
crossed  by  transverse  ridges  and  the  chasms  f)f  water-courses  descending 
from  above.  The  front  flank  of  this  bench  forms  the  stujiendous  esca.p- 
meiit  of  the  mountains,  everywhere  lofty  and  precipitous.  It  is  cut  through 
by  imuuuerable  streams,  up  whose  g*"  i  ?es  access  to  the  upper  regions  is 
attained,  and  the  internal  contents,  the  intestines,  as  it  were,  of  the  rocks 
arc  revealed  to  sight  and  search. 


THE  SYSTEM    Of    THE    rA/lCS. 


85 


lit'  Sicrni  Miiiilircs 
s  tliirt  variety  inild'- 

oiii  iinofhcr  ill  lull 
}X('ti  of  tlu'  cinicavo 

I  it'll  have  oxficiiditl 
).>*i(lftl  tti  an  i'tt'i'iial 

Jilatos  of  ]in'itirnil 
it>  lowest  torTL'-Htrial 

vV. 

iits  a  wt'ilgt^  ttivard 
I  tif  a  siw,  is  aliove 
or  is  V)ald  rock, 
ratuin,  less  l)y  many 
ln'iiih.  Tliis  /itiiili 
than  tlu'  first  and 
a  luxuriant  ii//iiiii- 
fiitui  of  urbttrcsft'ia't) 

nfli/  f/»/(/  fiinf  si/rrr, 
?.st  ores.  It  is  from 
ntl  descends.  Here 
tiinl)er  is  excellent 
'xhauHtil)le.     Swept 

c  of  the  mountain 
airease,  wliose  steps 
it  these  surfaces  of 
rial  crust,  that  the 
•om  this  thread,  as 
lantity  aiitl  become 
t)ck  sidt  disajjiiears 

id,  and  occasitmally 
-courses  descend i n^ 

stujtendtius  esca.p- 
^.  It  iscut  throufrh 
he  upper  regions  is 

were,  of  the  rocks 


Forming  the  pediment  tif  this  stupentjoiis  mural  escarjiment  i*  the 
ficDinl  liinii  or  /i)iic/i  (being  the  lowest)  in  the  general  mountain  descent. 
Here  the  approailiing  elevation  ttf  tlie  plain:  the  iinrease  in  >ize  of  tlie 
streams:  thi;  aeeuinulatiiig  di'-biis  fntm  above,  ami  the  iiierea.'M-d  atmo<- 
iiheiic  aln-asitin  ;  all   unite  to  til)literite  the  an^'ularitv  of  the  rocks,  and 


impair  the  striking  distinctness  of  forunition. 

l-'oi'ests  of  pine  anti  tlecitlutiiis  trees  prevail.  The  flora  ami  vegt-t.-itioii 
is  aliiintlant  and  varit)us.  The  atnitisjiheric  irrigation  becomes  uneertain. 
anil  tlu?  rocks  are  covereil  with  soil  or  tht!  fragments  of  their  own  siiper- 
ticial  ilestniction.  Immetliately  following  is  the  hni'd  space  occupietl  by 
the  fusion  t)f  the  mountain  ba.se  and  the  plain  gen  ..scemling  to  meet 
it.  Here  is  a  profile  infinitely  imU'iitetl  ami  broken  :  alternately  tlie  slop- 
ing  ritlge.s  ]irtitrutle  their  ribs  into  the  ]>lain,  aiitl  the  plain  a<lvanees  its 
valleys  between  them,  to  receive  the  streams.  This  is  the  region  of  the 
j)(iiri'rs.  wliere  is  cheekeil  in  its  tlescent  ami  lotlgetl  beneath  the  alluvial 
soil  the  free  goltl  washetl  down  by  torrents  from  the  overlianging  >iimmit.-. 


This  skett'ii  of  tl 


le  iniiiiK 


//structure  ami  eonfiiruration  of  the  Conlillera 


is  illustratetl  by  a  checkered  list  t)f  tletails  in  its  minute  element>.  The 
jirimrral  rocks,  K.atetl  to  ineamlescence.  rest  in  their  vertical  jMisitimis  un- 
alteretl  frtuu  their  oriiiinal  form  ;   thev  have  been  roasted  but  not  li<iuefi)'<l. 


isuni,  ui> 


|U. 

liftetl  on  lii^'h   but  imt  tit 


Original  strata  of  limestone  ami  gyj 
strtiyed,  re.st  ujioii  the  summits  as  a  tt)rii   hat.     (lypsum.  limestone,  .slates, 


clavs.  sluue,  ear 


ths 


an 


d  salts  are  thus  found  near  the  hiirhest  summit.s 


The  ilecay  of  the  secomlary  rocks  gives  extraortlinary  fertility  to  the 
niiiuntain  flanks,  ami  tt)  the  alluvial  btittoms  below.  Hence  the  luxuriance 
of  the  arboreseenee,  the  pastures,  and  the  flora. 

The  altituile  of  the  summits  gathei-s  ami  retains  the  snows,  whos«^  gla- 
ciers give  birth  tt)  innumerable  rivers.  These  gash  the  jirecipitous  flanks 
with  chasms,  up  which  mails  ascend.  The  ct)m{)osition  of  the  rotk.-*  i> 
here  revealetl ;  the  mysteries  of  their  interior  contents  are  unravelletl.  ami 
the  set^retion.s  of  nature  subjected  tti  the  human  eye  and  hand. 

Thus,  then,  erects  itself  the  prlutfrnl  C't>rdillera.  constructed  of  hori- 
zontal plate.s,  vertically  thrown  uj)  by  stupendt)us  volcanic  forc»»s.  parvially 
altered  and  rt)asted  by  incandescent  heat,  but  neither  destroyed  nor  recjLst 
ill  form.  The  secondary  rocks  are  tos.sed  and  scattered  high  in  the  up|>«T 
regions,  but  are  ni)t  calcinetl  by  flame. 

The  metallic  ores  are  as  various  as  the  variety  of  the  rocks,  fnrtflud  by 
heat  and  exposed  by  upheaval  and  corrosit)n.  Xo  lava,  no  pumice,  no 
obsidian,  nothing  of  melted  matter  from  the  Plutonic  region  is  seen.  This 
furrowing  of  the  terrestrial  crust  has  alone  occuiiied  and  exhaustetl  the 
stupendous  volcanic  throes  of  the  subterranean  world  of  fire. 


~ 


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86 


THE  SYSTEM  OF   THE  PA II OS. 


The  Sierra  Mimbhes,  forming  the  western  envelope  of  the  Pare,  is 
not  dissimilar  to  the  thnllUcrd  in  its  origin,  composition,  and  configura- 
tion. Rising  from  the  level  of  the  great  Plateau,  it  is  of  inferior  bulk 
and  rank.  It  forms  the  backbone  from  whose  contrasted  flanks  descend 
the  waters  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  on  the  cast,  and  the  Rio  Colorado,  on 
the  tcvst. 

Craters  of  extinct  volcanoes  are  nunun'ous  ;  streams  of  lava,  once  ]i((uid, 
abound  ,  pedriijah  of  semi-crystalline  basalt  submerge  and  cover  the  val- 
ley into  which  they  have  flowed,  and  over  which  they  have  liardened. 

This  Sierra,  then,  has  a  general  direction  from  north  to  south,  corre- 
sponding with  the  lO'Jth  meridian.  It  has  all  the  characteristics  in  minld- 
tiirc  of  the  Cordillera,  but  is  checkered  and  interrupted  by  the  escape  of 
subterranean  fires,  having  areas  overflowed  and  buried  beneath  the  erupted 
current.  Where  the  nascent  springs  of  the  Rio  del  \orte  have  their  birth, 
the  Sierra  Mimbres  culminates  to  stupendous  peaks  of  perennial  snow, 
local///  named  Sierra  San  Juan. 

The  concave  plain  of  the  San  Luis  Pare,  begirt  by  this  clUpttcal  zone  of  the 
Sierras,  thus  capped  with  a  ragged  fringe  of  snow  projcicted  ujiward  against 
the  canopy,  is  the  receptacle  of  their  converging  waters.  It  is  a  bowl 
of  va.st  amplitude.  It  has  for  countless  ages  re(;eived  and  kept  the  sedi- 
mentary settlings  of  so  prodigious  a  circuit  of  the  Sierras.  It  is  builded 
up  with  every  variety  of  form,  structure,  and  geological  elements  elsewhere 
found  to  enter  into  the  architecture  of  nature. 

Hither  descend  the  currents  of  water,  of  the  atmo.sphere,  of  lava.  The 
rocks  rent  from  the  naked  pinnacles,  tortured  by  the  intense  vicissitudes 
which  assail  them ;  the  fragments  rolled  by  the  j)erpetnal  ])re.S!<ure  of 
gravitj'  upon  the  descending  sloj)es ;  the  sands  and  .soils  from  the  founda- 
tions of  rocks  and  clays  of  every  gradation  of  hardness;  the  liumm  of 
expired  forests  and  annual  vegetation ;  elements  carbonized  by  transient 
tires ;  organic  decay ;  all  these  elements  descend,  intermingle,  and  accu- 
mulate. 

This  roiicavc  plain  is,  then,  a  bowl  filled  with  sedimentary  drift,  covered 
with  soil,  and  varnished  over,  as  it  were,  with  vegetation.  The  northern 
dej)artment  of  Rincon,  closely  embraced  by  the  Sierras,  and  occupied  by 
the  San  Luis  Lake,  is  a  va.st  savanna  deposited  frouj  the  filtration  of  the 
waters,  highly  imj)regnated  with  the  mountain  <li'lnis.  Beneath  this  soil 
is  a  continuous  pavement  of  peat,  which  maintains  the  saturation  of  the 
super-soil,  and  is  admirable  for  fuel. 

The  middle  region  of  the  j)lain,  longitudinally,  displays  a  crater  of  the 
most  perfect  form.  The  intericn-  pit  has  a  diameter  of  twenty  miles,  from 
the  centre  of  which  is  seen  the  circumferent  wall  forming  an  exact  circle, 


and  in  height  fiv 
lava,  pumice,  calc: 
obsidian. 

This  circumfen 

departure  of  the  1 

traverse  the  nortl 

]iy  this  and  ot 

into  isi)latcd  hill 

dinary  beauty  of 

filled  up  with  tlu 

introduced   by  tl 

bevelled  by  thesi 

drained  through 

Fivm  this  cri 

Pare  exjiands  ov 

volcanic  activity 

Rio  del  Norte,  \ 

or  caiion  of  per] 

feet,  where  it  di 

the  village  of  L 

Such   are  thi 

which  nature  hj 

pansion  of  the  1: 

Toward  the  no 

defeated  eflPort  t 

Such  is  an  in 

ras.     Its  physii 

of  nature  piled 

mony ;  its  eloi 

portions ;  its   c 

brilliancy,  tonit 

excellence,  grai 

mines  and  miu 

salts,  and  fuel ; 

fruits,  meat,  \ 

ment  which  bit 

voke,  stimulate 

Entrance  ar 

convenient  pa: 

pass  and  ever 

structed  at  an 


THE  SYSTEM   OF   THE  PARCS. 


87 


and  in  height  five  hundred  ft'ct.  This  wall  is  a  barranca,  composed  of 
lava,  luunice,  calcined  lime,  metamorphosed  sandsftone,  vitrified  roi  ks,  and 
obsidian. 

Tliis  circuniferent  barranca  is  perforated  through  by  the  entrance  and 
departure  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  the  Culebra,  and  the  Costilla  liivers,  which 
tra.crso  the  northern,  western,  and  southern  edges  of  the  interior. 

]{y  this  and  other  forces  of  corrosion  this  barranca  is  on  three  sides  cut 
into  isolated  hills,  called  cerritos,  of  every  fantastic  form  and  of  extraor- 
dinary beauty  of  shape  and  tints.  The  bottom  of  the  crater  has  been 
filled  up  with  the  .soils  resulting  from  tlie  decay  of  this  variety  of  material, 
iiitroducefl  by  the  currents  of  the  water  and  of  the  atmosjdiere.  It  is 
bevelled  by  tliese  forces  to  a  perfect  level ;  is  of  the  fattest  fertility,  and 
drained  through  the  porous  formation  which  underlies  it. 

Fr(j))i  this  crater  to  its  southern  rim,  a  distance  of  sixty-five  miles,  the 
Pare  expands  over  a  prodigious  jjt(//vV/(//,  formed  from  it  in  the  period  of 
volcanic  activity.  This  pedrigal  retains  its  level,  and  is  perforated  by  the 
llio  del  Norte,  whose  longitudinal  course  is  confined  in  a  profound  chasm 
or  caiiou  of  perpendicular  walls  of  lava,  increasing  to  the  depth  of  1200 
feet,  where  it  debouches  froui  the  jaws  of  this  gigantic  flood  of  lava,  near 
the  village  of  La  Joya,  in  New  Mexico. 

Such  are  the  extraordinary  forms  and  stupendous  dimensions  with 
which  nature  hjre  salutes  the  eye  and  astoni.shes  the  imagination.  The  ex- 
jiansion  of  the  lava  is  all  to  the  .-outh,  following  the  descent  toward  the  sea. 
Toward  the  north,  repelled  by  the  ascent,  are  waves  demonstrating  the 
defeated  efl'ort  to  climb  the  mountain  base. 

Such  is  an  imperfect  sketch  of  this  wonderful  amphitheatre  of  the  Sier- 
ras. Its  physical  structure,  infinitely  complex,  exhibiting  all  the  elements 
of  nature  piled  in  contact,  yet  .set  together  in  order  and  arranged  in  har- 
mony;  its  cloud-v_.upelling  Sierras,  of  stern  primeval  matter  and  pro- 
portions; its  concave  basin  of  fat  fertility;  its  atmosphere  of  dazzling 
brilliancy,  tonic  temperature,  and  gorgeous  tints ;  its  arable  and  ixmtoral 
excellence,  grand  forests,  and  multitude  of  streams ;  its  infinite  variety  of 
mines  and  minerals,  embracing  the  whole  catalogue  of  metals,  rocks,  clays, 
salts,  and  fuel ;  its  capacity  to  produce  grain,  flax,  wool,  hides,  vegetables, 
fruits,  uieat,  poultry,  and  dairy  food ;  the  compact  economy  of  arrange- 
ment which  blends  and  interfuses  all  these  varieties ;  these  combine  to  pro- 
voke, stimulate,  and  reward  the  taste  for  pliysical  and  mental  labor. 

Entrance  and  exit  over  the  rim  of  the  pare  is  everywhere  made  easy  by 
convenient  passes.  Roads  re-enter  upon  it  from  all  points  of  the  com- 
pass and  every  portion  of  the  surrounding  continent.  These  are  not  ob- 
structed at  any  season. 


88 


THE  SYSTEM    OF    THE  PARCS. 


On  the  north  is  the  Puneho  Pass,  leadiuji'  to  the  Upper  Arkansas  River, 
and  into  the  South  Pare,  On  the  enat,  the  Moscha  and  Sanjiio  di  Ciisto 
Passes  debouch  iuiniediately  ujm)ii  the  Gnat  PlaiiDi.  On  the  sniith  is  the 
channel  of  tlie  Rio  del  Norte.  On  tlie  west,  easy  roads  diverjic  to  the 
rivers  Chanias,  San  Juun,  and  toward  Arizona.  In  the  nurt/iircxt  tlie 
Coclia-to-pee  opens  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake  and  the  Pacific.  Convenient 
thoroughfares  and  excellent  roads  converge  from  all  points,  and  diverge 
with  the  same  facility. 

T/ie  si/sfem  of  the  four  pares,  extending  to  the  north,  indefinitely  anijdi- 
fies  and  repeats  all  that  characterizes  the  San  Luis  Pare.  Smaller  in  size 
and  less  illustrated  by  variety,  each  one  of  'lie  three  by  itself  lingers  be- 
hind the  San  Luis,  but  is  an  e(jual  ornament  in  the  same  liimily.  Their 
graceful  forms,  their  happy  harmony  of  contact  and  position,  make  their 
aggregated  attractions  the  fascinating  charm  and  glory  of  the  American 
continent. 

The  abundance  and  variety  of  hot  springK,  of  every  modulation  of  tem- 
perature, is  very  great.  These  are  abo  equalled  by  waters  of  medicinal 
virtues.  It  has  been  the  paradise  of  the  aboriginal  stock,  elsewhere  so 
abundant  and  various.  Fish,  water-fowl,  and  birds  of  game  and  song  and 
brilliant  plumage  frequent  the  streams  and  groves.  Animal  life  is  infi- 
nite in  (juantity  and  abundantly  various. 

The  Atmosi'HERic  curre.nts,  which  sweep  away  every  exhalation  and 
all  traces  of  malaria  and  miasma,  have  an  undeviating  rotation.  These 
currents  are  necessarily  vertical  in  direction  and  equable  in  force,  alter- 
nating smoothly- as  land  and  sea  currents  of  the  tropical  islands  of  the 
ocean.  The  sileuee  and  serenity  of  the  atniosj)here  are  not  ruffled  ;  the 
changing  temperature  alone  indicates  tlie  n:otion  of  nature. 

All  around  the  cWy>^((Y*/ circumference  of  the  plain,  following,  as  it  were, 
its  shore,  and  bending  with  the  indented  base  of  the  mountains,  is  an  un- 
interrupted road  of  unparalleled  excellence.  This  circuit  is  five  hundred 
miles  in  lengtli,  and  is  graced  with  a  landscape  of  uninterrupted  grandeur, 
variety,  and  beauty. 

On  the  one  hand  the  mountains,  on  the  other  hand  the  conatvc  plain 
diversified  with  groves  of  alamos  and  volcanic  cerritos.  At  short  inter- 
vals of  five  or  ten  miles  asunder,  are  cro.ssed  the  swift  running  currents 
and  fertile  meadows  of  the  converging  mountain  streams.  Ifot  spriii(/s 
mingle  their  warm  water  with  all  ihese  streams,  which  swarm  with  delicate 
fish  and  water-fowl. 

The  works  of  the  beaver  and  otter  are  everywhere  encountered,  and 
water-power  for  machinery  is  of  singularly  universal  distribution.  Agri- 
culture classifies  itself  into  j'untimii  iu\d  (iriM-j  the  former  subsisting  on 


THE  SYSTEM   OF   THE  PAIICS. 


89 


the  iierennial  grasses ;  the  latter  upon  irrigation  everywhere  attiiined  by 
the  streams  and  artificial  aze<(uias. 

Tliis  concarc  eonfiguration  and  symmetry  of  structure  is  remarkably 
projiitious  to  economy  of  labor  and  jiroduetion,  favored  by  the  juxtaposi- 
tion :uid  variety  of  material,  by  the  short  and  easy  transport,  and  by  tlie 
benignant  atmosphere. 

The  supreme  excellence  of  position,  structure,  and  productions  thus 
grouped  within  the  system  of  the  Paucs  of  Colcirado,  occujiying  the 
heart  of  the  continental  home  of  the  American  people,  is  conclusively  dis- 
cernilile.  Here  is  the  focus  of  the  mountains,  of  the  great  rivers,  and 
of  the  metals  of  the  continent. 

The  great  rivers  have  here  their  extreme  sources,  which  interlock  and 
form  innumerable  and  convenient  passes  from  sea  to  sea.  From  these  they 
descend  smoothly  to  both  oceans  by  continuous  gradations.  The  jtarcs 
occupy  the  for  fifth  ilct/nc,  and  offer  the  facilities  for  a  lodgment  in  force, 
at  the  highest  altitude.  JJcie  the  .supreme  divide  of  the  continent  exists, 
half-way  between  the  trough  of  the  Mississijipi  and  the  Pacific  shore. 
Being  immediately  approachable  over  the  Great  Plains,  their  m'nes  of 
precious  metals  are  the  nearest  in  the  wt)rld  to  the  social  mas.ses  of  the 
American  people  and  to  their  great  commercial  cit'.es.  Their  accessibility 
is  perfect. 

All  the  elements  of  a  perfect  economy,  food,  health,  geographical  posi- 
tion, innumerable  mines  of  the  richest  ores  and  every  variety,  erect,  assist, 
and  fortify  one  another.  Within  and  around  this  parr,  so  grand  in  dimen- 
sions and  harmonious  in  structure  and  locality,  is  preparing  itself  the 
mining  laboratory  of  the  world. 

The  rare  economy  in  architecture,  climate,  inter-oceanic  convenience, 
prolific  food,  miscellaneous  materials  and  metals,  constitute  and  locate  here 
the  pi  I  riit/oti  iiufeed  of  all  geographical  positions. 

The  San  Luis  Pare  has  tivintij-four  thousaml  population.  These  j)eople 
are  fif  the  ^lexican-Anunican  race.  Since  the  conquest  of  Cortez,  a.d. 
1520,  the  JA',»/<v/H  peoj)Ie  have  acquired  and  adopted  the  language,  and  in 
modified  forms,  *he  ])olitical  and  social  systems  of  their  European  rulers. 
A  taste  for  seclusion  has  always  characterized  the  aburiyinal  masses,  height- 
ened by  the  geographical  configuration  of  their  peculiar  territory. 

Upon  the  Pl.ATKAi:,  elevated  7000  feet  above  the  oceans,  and  encased 
within  an  uninterrupted  barrier  of  snow,  reside  9,000,000  of  homogeneous 
people.  An  instinctive  terror  of  the  ocean,  of  the  torrid  heats  aiul  mala- 
rious atmosphere  of  the  narrow  coast  on  either  sea,  perpetually  haunts  the 
natives  of  the  Pi.ATKAir. 

To  them  navigation  is  unknown,  and  maritime  life  is  abhorrent.     The 


90 


THE  SYSTEM   OF   THE  PARCS. 


industrial  enorjiles  of  the  people,  always  active  and  elastic,  and  always 
recoiling'  from  the  sea,  have  expanded  to  the  north,  following  the  longi- 
tudinal direction  of  the  great  rivere.  T]t!s  column  of  2)ro(jri:.ss  advances 
from  xDiitli  to  north  ;  it  ascends  the  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte ;  it  has  reached 
and  permanently  occupies  the  soutlwrn  half  of  the  San  Luis  Pare. 

At  the  same  moment  the  column  of  the  American  people,  advancing  in 
forc(!  across  the  middle  belt  of  the  continent,  from  cast  to  iccsf,  is  solidly 
lodged  upon  the  eastern  flank  of  the  Cordillera,  and  is  everywhere  enter- 
ing the  pares  through  its  passes. 

These  two  American  populations,  all  of  the  Christian  faith,  here  meet 
front  to  front,  harmonize,  intermarry,  and  reinvigorate  the  blended  mass 
with  the  peculiar  domestic  accomplishments  of  each  other. 

The  Mexican  contributes  his  primitive  skill,  inherited  for  centuries 
without  change,  in  the  manij)ulations  o^  jiastoral  and  7/(/;(//(^  industry, 
and  in  the  tillage  of  the  soil  by  artificial  irrigation.  The  American  adds 
to  these  machinery  and  the  intelligence  of  expansive  progress.  The  grafted 
stock  has  the  sap  of  both. 

As  the  coming  continental  railways  hasten  to  bind  together  our  people 
isolated  on  the  .seas,  A  LONGITUDINAL  RAILWAY  of  2000  miles  will  unite 
with  these  in  their  middle  course,  bisecting  the  Territory,  States,  and  cities 
of  10,(100,000  of  affiliated  people.  This  will  fuse  and  harmonize  the  iso- 
lated populations  of  our  continent  into  one  people,  in  all  the  relations  of 
commerce,  affinity,  and  concord. 


tic,  and  always 
iviiig  the  loiiyi- 
yress  advances 

it  has  reached 
is  Pare. 
e,  advancing  in 

west,  is  solidly 
erywhcre  cnter- 

lith,  here  meet 
10  blended  mass 

d  for  centuries 
iiiiin(/  industry, 
A)iii:ricaii,  adds 
ss.    The  grafted 

!ther  our  people 
miles  will  unite 
tates,  and  cities 
nionize  the  iso- 
10  relations  of 


I.">0         ll.'i      ltd      Li.".     L!"      l-'i     l.'l'      ll.'>    111*     In:,  11)11    !).•.  Ml)     Jl.'.     iU> 


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<aSmSy. 


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it> 

^P*.syif  ^ 

4-' 

0    H 


Ol 


■j5~-;v 


\ 


..,v<' 


rfV"^ 


i^wfV' 


To  the  Aniei 
our  I'litirc  c(juii 
stood,  ii  vision 

Tlu'ie  is  rev( 
jiiissed,  an  iiscci 

It  is  here  tlii 
CAN  1'KC»1'LE  I 
heart  a  j)ious  p 

Here  are  uni 
fnrcca.  All  of 
turo  of  a  poll  I 
attainable  hy  o 

P^niinent  am 

Tf  a  navipit 
v>rtlcnJ})j  into 
one,  de<jrre  of 
altitude  of  2; 

At  or  about 
perpetual  zero 

Tf  he  shall 
north  pole,  it 
miles,  to  expc 
has  been  encoi 

AVe  will 
changes  pecul 

One  who  ti 
citrcoim  plain, 
the  sugar  belt 
cattle,  and  s\v 
At  length,  the 
consequently 


t? 


CHAPTER    IX. 


TIIKKMAL     AMEKICA. 


To  tlie  Anicriciiii  who  onnniihfrs  in'f/iiii  his  minful yhuicr  cvory  detail  of 
our  entire  country,  from  a  position  correetly  seleeteil  and  riulitly  under- 
stood, a  vision  of  unjiaralleled  splendor  is  unveiled. 

There  i.s  revealed  to  him  a  nasseent  supremacy  over  all  iliin<rs  that  arc 
pa.'^sed,  an  ascendency  to  which  futurity  can  evolve  no  hojieful  rival. 

It  is  htre  that  the  ])re-eminently  divine  jiifts,  vcmchsafed  to  the  Ameri- 
can People  hy  God  throvgh  Xatiirr,  speak  out  and  enforce  from  every 
heart  a  i)ious  prayer  of  thanksjrivintr. 

Here  are  united,  in  sjieeial  majiiiitude,  a  variety  of  iinr  ponrrs  and  fWsh 
forces.  All  of  these  combine  to  dictate,  and  are  auspicious  to,  the  struc- 
ture of  a  political  society  of  vast  dimensions,  upon  the  hij^hest  level 
attainahlc  hy  energetic  intelligence, — order  and  mental  culture. 

Kminent  among  these  gifts  is  TiiEii.M.\L  Sciknte. 

If  a  navigator,  in  the  mid-oeean  and  beneath  the  ecpiator,  .shall  ascend 
rerticn/hy  into  the  atmosphere,  as  in  a  balloon,  he  will  experience  a  fall  of 
one  degree  of  annual  menu  lieat,  as  evidenced  by  the  thermometer,  at  the 
altitude  of  259  feet. 

At  or  about  an  altitude  of  20,000  feet,  he  will  find  the  temperature  of 
perpetual  zr.rn.,  where  animal  life  and  vegetation  cease. 

If  he  shall  then  weigh  anchor  and  sail  along  a  ineruh'an  line  to  the 
north  pole,  it  will  be  necessary  to  traverse  a  full  degree  of  hitltiitle.  GOV 
miles,  to  experience  along  the  sea-surface  the  same  reduction  of  heat  as 
has  been  encountered  at  259  feet  of  ?c?Vw// altitude. 

We  will  learn  from  these  facts  the  special  combinations  of  climatic 
changes  peculiar  to  and  peculiarly  favorable  to  North  America. 

One  who  travels  by  a  mcriduin  line  along  the  cinieave  of  the  great  cal- 
cnreoMs platn,  from  Cuba  to  the  Arctic  Sea,  crosses  in  regular  succession 
the  sug-ar  belt,  the  cotton  belt,  the  belt  of  Indian  corn,  hemp,  tobacco, 
cattle,  and  swine,  tlic  wheat  belt,  oats,  rye,  roots,  the  gra.sses,  and  barley. 
At  length,  the  j perpetual  Arctic  fro.sts  stop  all  vegetation,  all  culture,  and 
coiLsequently  all  habitation.     Such  are  the  palpable  changes  ascribable  to 

01 


4- 


If      U 


I :  I 


92 


Til  EH  MM   AMEIttCA. 


I(il!tii.<li .  ii|iiiii    tlic  niiitiiii'iitiil   area  i>('  small  altitiuK'  alxivo  tlic  Hoa,  and 
within  the  iiinn'tiiiif  fliinatcs. 

If  the  same  traveller,  f'acin.i:'  to  tlic  left  at  the  l(»th  de-rree  uf  latitude, 
adherini;-  tu  this  line,  elinilis  tlie  ;:ra(liial  ascent  \\\'  tlir  (Imit  l'!n!tis.  snr- 
niounts  the  S.Nuwv  XdltrilKKN  A.NDKS,  and  reaches  the  l'acili<' ( ►ceaii. 
he  ciicmmters  a  similar  «utTes.sl(in  of  heltw  of  ve^'etation  and  animal  life, 
fireatly  foiniiressed  in  arrangement,  and  a.serihahli!  to  increasinii'  niilinl 
altitude. 

TiiKiiMAL  Science,  iishiistcd  by  its  haiidmaid  mitioi-ohnji/,  explains  for 
us  tlie  iitiin>sj>/i(jrix  which  successively  envelop  the  j^lobe  of  the  earth 
outside,  handles  them,  and  fi.xes  them  witliout  ohscurity. 

The  filolie  is  closely  enveloped  by  a  shell  of  water,  a.s  the  jiulp  of  an 
oranjre  by  its  rind,  throujrh  which  the  continents  and  islands  elevate  and 
protrude  them.selves.  This  is  the  AQCKOfs  (ititinsjihrrr.  ^'isillle  to  the 
eye,  dense  and  viscid,  the  ranpe  of  its  elasticity  is  measured  by  the  sur- 
face undulations,  liy  the  disturbances  caused  by  winds  and  cyclones,  and 
by  the  ri.se  and  fall  of  the  tides  against  its  sliores. 

Enveloping;  tliis,  aiul  e.rfrnmf  to  it,  is  the  AEHIAI.  (ifnioHji/n'iY.  This  is 
invisible  to  the  e^e,  and  highly  elastic.  Into  it  ascend  tlie  vapors  ex- 
haled from  the  .surface  of  the  sea  and  the  land.  These  vajiors,  variously 
condensed,  float  through  this  atmosphere  in  the  form  of  clouds,  and  thus 
reveal  themselves  to  vision. 

At  an  aliitude  of  4(t0(l  feet  tliis  AERIAL  atmosphere  terminates,  being 
as  the  siToiid  rind  of  an  orange  enveloping  and  external  to  the  ^firsf.  It 
ceases  fun-  as  absolutely  as  does  the  iiquimis  atmosjdiere  under  our  feet. 

External  to  the  «»'r(Vf/',  and  similarly  enveloping  it,  is  the  ETIIKKEAL 
afmoxplicrr.  This  has  the  position  and  similitude  of  a  third  rind  to  an 
orange.  Here  the  region  of  space  is  approached,  where  animal  life,  vege- 
tation, and  clouds  cease  to  exist. 

Physical  geography  defines  those  portions  of  the  earth's  surface  within 
the  <u'r!(d  atuKtsphere,  to  possess  a  ji.vriti.me  climate;  those  jiortions 
within  the  vtlwinil  atmosphere  to  possess  a  CONTlXEXTAli  climate. 

It  is  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  l(l2d  meridian,  the  eastern  boundary 
of  Colorado,  where  the  altitude  of  400(1  feet  is  attained  and  the  region  of 
the  c'liifiiuiifii/  climate  is  apj)roaehed  and  entered.  It  is  clear,  then,  that 
the  whole  prodigious  .system  of  the  North  American  Andes  is  within 
the  eflirri'ii/  atmosphere,  and  in  the  region  of  the  conti.N'ENTAL  climate. 

Upon  the  region  of  the  plohnout  which  extends  casdrun/  from  the 
abrupt  base  of  the  Cordilleras,  are  discernible  counterpart  phenomena  as 
occur  upon  the  shores  of  the  oceans  and  illustrated  by  their  tides. 

The  highly  clastic  aerlnl  atmosphere  is  .sometimes,  by  external  pressure, 


HI; 


"ivo  the  sea,  and 


TIIKItMAL    .\MEIU('.\. 


93 


(1,mmI(i1  up  til  the  very  ha.-e  of  the  Cunlillcia.  This  eausfj*  the  coni-ave 
siiitiiie  i>t'  tlie  etliei'eal  atiiKisphiTe.  also  liiirlily  fla.-tic  to  asicinl.  AIt«T- 
iiatcly,  the  (ti rinl  atinusjilicre  t'lihs  liaek  to  its  iKinnal  h-vul.  Thus  is 
exiieileiieed,  within  this  inarj:in.  einliiaeiiif;  the  eonjuiieti<in  of  these  two 
atinos|pheivs,  an  alternate  play,  as  in  (le|tri'ssed  hinds  wliieh  are  overflowi-d 
an>l  then  h'ft  (h'y  liy  tlie  tiiU-s  ol'the  sea. 

We  have  seen  tiiat  tlie  ^Vo///i  Aim  icon  Amliswxv  lun;iitudinal  in  thtir 
direetion,  reeeivinjr  favorahly  the  hutting  power  of  tiie  sun  uii  all  tlair 
flunks  and  evtTy  siinnnit.  Tht?  outll.inkinjj;  Oinlillini*  fxalt  their  su- 
jiri'inc  heads  aljnve  the  line  of  ]K'r|i('tual  frost.  They  winimw  fniui  tlie 
air  all  the  vajiurs  of  the  iiiiin'tiiiir  world,  and  totally  e.veludf  tin-ir  entraiiee 
witliiii.  on  to  the  Plntvnu.  Carhonic  aeid,  liydrojren,  nitroiit-n,  are  h-ft 
hclmv.  Pun^ient,  tonie,  iiealth-  and  life-hei-towing  oxygen  remains  to 
jKi.'^scss  unadulterated  and  su]irenie  dominion.  ' 

These  favorahle  luoditieations  of  the  tin  rni<il  laws,  aetinir  hx-itUij.  hut 
over  a  stujieiidou.s  area,  f^ive  and  eoinhine  warmth,  dryness,  u  diminution 
of  atniospherie  pressure,  a  sun  never  elouded,  serenity,  and  profase  arljo- 
reseenee  and  vegetation. 

These  influenc-es  are  expanded  up  and  down  the  pntlirtni  Plateau  :  tlu-y 
oviileaj)  the  narrow  limits  whieh  elsewhere  restriet  tlie  inDf/nrin'if  Z'xli'u- : 
tlity  push  the  favoral)le  conditions  of  the  isotiiermal  axis,  to  the  north 
and  to  the  soutli,  up  and  down  the  Plateau,  in  both  directions,  to  its  ex- 
treme limits. 

A  sublime  arcliiteeture  acts  through  the  vi.-ion.  It  exalts  the  heart 
and  refines  the  taste  of  man.  \ittinv  is  graceful,  winning,  and  uninter- 
ruptedly friendly  in  every  feature.  Xow  the  vfitlvnl  tin nnul  Ix-lts.  side 
by  .--ide  with  the  lion'::niitiil  belts,  comjire.ssed  as  a  rainbow,  are  join.-)!,  and 
the  two  thermal  scales  blend  their  areas.  They  expand  from  one  another, 
augmenting  manifold  the  auspicious  thermal  varieties. 

The  stupendous  mountain  mass  is  elevated  above  the  maritime  and 
into  the  ctlunul  atmosphere.  The  battU'iiieiits  and  summits  pres<-nt  con- 
secutively every  front  to  the  luorning.  to  the  meridian,  and  to  the  de- 
scending sun.  The  fire  of  tht?  sun  perpetually  pours  down  his  heat  through 
the  pungent  air  and  unclouded  canopy.  This  warmth  condeuses  and 
exerts  a  favorable  power  round  the  year. 

The  area  of  most  auspicious  isothermal  unrmth  is  here  expanded  to  the 
most  immense  dimensions  and  comj)rehe'.isive  variety.  The  surfac-e  is 
most  favorably  undulating.  It  v^  burnished  with  diss<jlving  colors  of  the 
richest  hues,  and  checkered  with  bewitching  .scenery. 

The  latitude  is  most  favorable.  The  lomjitude  is  equally  so.  From 
this  centre  all  the  <,rand  rivers  radiate  and  descend  uninterruptedly  to  all 


I 


3  m 


IE  ^i: 


•u 


TIIKIiMAL   AMKHH'A. 


the   eiiciiiiidiiciit   iMciiiis,  fvorywlu-n!  coiiffaliul  fnmi   >ii:lit    licvund  ilir 
ciicirdiiru  iKirizini. 

All  iiiliiiliiliilili  jiltiliidcs  Huccct'd  (iiic  iiiHitlici'.  'I'licy  arc  jiniccl'iiilv 
McikIciI  Mini  cciiiiliiiinl,  iis  lire  llio  .stiviiks  of  the  riiiiilMiw.  Tlicv  iimiir- 
(iiatcly  tiiiicli  and  rest  ii|i<iii  ihk;  aiiutlicr.  All  altitudoH  arc  ('i|ually  upcii 
fill-  individual  clcctinii. 

This  s|il('iidid  ^Inictiirc  anil  tlirsc  ](ruli(i('  jiil'ls  arc  jpnipliciic  nCa  mi- 
cicty  inspired  liy  incnlal  energies  of  the  highest  standard  and  reinliireed 
with  iniiirejiiialile  jiuwer. 

Here  is  diswrnilili!  a  treiiehant  contrast  and  deficiency  in  architectural 
cconoiny.  The  Kuroiiean  basins  of  the  Mediterranean,  the  Haltic,  the 
I'ontic  and  I'mjiontic  have  their  calcareous  Imttoins  liuried,  as  in  a 
tiiinli.  Iiciicatli  a  sterile  salt  cxjianse.  The  interveninir  ami  ruiijicd  nmnii- 
tliiii  lands  only  are  left  dry  and  inhahitalile.  This  lullhuliiutl  ex|iaii-c 
of  sea,  pniloiittcd  fmni  (iiliraltar  to  tlie  Caucasus,  incorrijiilily  isolated 
Kurope  from  tropical  Africa.  This  latter  and  ncighhoring  continent  liasi 
remained  thus  cut  of}',  unused  and  undcvelojicd. 

Tin;  people  of  the  iinrt/imi  shore  circumnavigato  the  glohe  to  liriii.; 
their  jrrocerics  from  the  Ornnfu         I    Wistirii  Indii's. 

The  llii  iiiiiil  liiiis  have  here  operated  since  the  liirth  of  time  with  un- 
releiitiiig  hostility,  and  superadded  their  blasting  power  to  the  unfriendly 
anatomy  of  the  land  and  water. 

In  America,  the  jirolonged  /V'^^r//^  surrounds  .and  envelops  the  Mex- 
ican an<l  Carilibeaii  Seas.  It  carries  the  isothermal  warmth  and  railways 
into  the  very  lu'st  of  tropical  productions.  Thus  the  widest  extremes 
are  iiropitiously  combined  in  a  single  neighborhood  and  united  in  one 
domestic  home. 

A  special  feature  of  this  vast  expanse  within  the  rontinrii/iif  climate  is 
prntoral  ogriciiltuie.  Here  the  dryness  and  the  unfaili'ig  sunshine  curl 
the  grasses  into  hay  upon  the  ground  where  they  grow.  Preserved  thus 
from  dt\cay,  thi'y  furnish  tn'iifrr  food,  dispensing  with  the  labor  (if  harvest. 

For  (iniUf  culfiu-f,  which  has  the  highest  grade  of  excellence  and  the 
widest  range  in  quality,  variety,  and  f|uantity,  a  corresfionding  economy 
is  discernible  in  the  univer.sal  necessity  and  use  of  artificial  irrigation.  The 
waters,  coming  from  the  snows,  descend  from  above.  LnJinr  is  not  liar- 
assed  by  mud  or  by  the  Injstile  interruptions  incidental  to  a  fickle  canopy. 
The  .sloi)ing  surfaces  of  land  and  water  arc  neighborly  and  friendly  to  each 
other:  this  relation  is  continuous  from  the  highest  altitude  to  the  .seas. 

All  civilized  po]iulatioiis  have  been  intensely  sensitive  to  cl!m<it!c 
power,  and  iustiuctivcly  oblicjue  from  excessive  heat,  cold,  and  damp. 

The  latituJln  d  backboue  which  bisects  the  Asiatic-European  continent 


from  '•""'  '"  " 
upon  its  !tinilli> 
The  iKiillii  I' 
iiUy.  without  ni 
which  in  concei 
North  Amcrici 
The  ouniiiiotcn 
nr.'ativc,  chilli 
The  mental 
cliisivcly  restri 
force  has  uiiiti 
nicnts.    A  SOU) 
ii  febrile  llnri 
tiociety  univcr- 
the  absence  ot 
without  elastii 

rnlill'rilf   (I 

To  the  Ameri 

)/■(,/■/(/  are  ilec( 

nii.ssive  multit 

established    it 

without  cmer; 

There  is  di 

who  are  now  i 

strife,  an  idol 

tion  and  to  d 

people.     To 

and  curb  it  t 

it  to  this  f/e 

with  them. 

The  grand 

Ocean,  have 

poned  in  J( 

frt<ii<lli/  sile 

Tl!KR.MAl 

cepted,  offer 

iuforce  the  c 

having  solii 

of  our  nati 

cuncaitvlc  i 

verge  on  tli 


i«r'-r-tiii 


Til  El!  MM.    .WIKItir.K. 


95 


>i,:;Iit    l.cvdii.l  tl„. 


t!  K'*''"'    U\    \)y\\\<' 


from  niKt  III  inst  ri'ccivi'S  tllc  llfiltin^  ]«i\Vfr  nl"  tlic  >llll.  nml  nil  iif  it, 
uiKiii  its  Kiiulhirii  i  Ii>|H'  iiliiiir. 

TIk'  iiDif/irrii  sl(i|u'.  asf^i^riicd  to  |Hr|iftUitl  xliudc.  receives  us  |ier|ietii- 
ally,  witliniit  iiiitipitiiiii,  tlu;  liyiM-rliDreaii  lijinr.  Tlie  iininiatiii;:  siiii-Iieiit, 
wliieli  is  ('DiicOiitratc'*!  itiid  eonileiisid  witluiut  t\\v  rtmaivf  atiipliillieatre  of 
N'liifli  Aiiieiiea,  is  here  seatteri'd  and  dis>i]iate(I  liy  a  liii<*tile  nnin.r  ro<il'. 
The  iiiinii|Miteiit  jMiwer  nl'tlie  l)eni;riiaiit  flu  rimtl Junrs  is  liere  iiuivi'rsally 
iie^'ative,  eliilliii;:,  and  linstile. 

Tlie  mental  liirccs  and  Hpcciilatiniis  of  the  <iii/ii/iir  wdiIiI  Iiave  heen  ex- 
(lusively  restriete(l  to  the  eonte.ii|ilatiiiii  of  y</V/;«// states.  The  anareiiy  of 
I'urce  has  uniforndy  aeeoiii|ianied  a  convex  j:eoi;rii|>liy  of  incoluTcnt  fraji- 
iiicnts.  A  sour,  saturated  soil ;  a  dismal  atmosphere  exdusivtsly  ninn'/iiiir  ; 
a  felirile  llirnnnl  condition;  monotony:  all  these  have  ineuhated  over 
Niciety  universally  and  witli  unrelieved  jierpctuity.  Society,  dwarfed  liy 
tile  ahsenci^  of  any  jjjenerous  inspirations,  has  been  Hhiirfiish  and  vi'^etated 
without  elasticity. 

I'li/i/iciif  (1)1(1  social  science  liave  found  it  inipo.wsihle  to  have  hirth. 
To  the  American,  experiences  .sought  for  and  derived  from  the  nnlii/ne 
vorlil  are  deceptive,  sombre,  and  di.scourajiinir.  War,  monarchy,  and  suh- 
niL-^sive  multitudes  oidy  are  seen.  I'Icll  lllicrtij  has  never  permanently 
cstalilished  itself.  Societies  luive  firown  to  be  polished  and  enervated 
without  emerj;inf^  from  senn-savajre  barbarism. 

There  is  discernible  in  the  temper  of  the  p'neration  of  our  statesmen 
who  are  now  jias.sed  away,  and  who  have;  seen  our  country  saddened  by  civil 
strife,  un  idolatroua  adulation  ol' Europe;  a  proclivity  to  view  with  trepida- 
tion and  to  dwarf  tin;  aspirinir  };enuis  and  elastic  energies  of  tlie  pioneer 
jieopht.  To  bridle  the  continental  mission  of  the  North  American  pcojile 
and  curb  it  to  the  sway  and  dimensions  of  the  Atlantic  nhore,  to  restrict 
it  to  this  geographical  selvage,  has  not  ceased  to  be  a  cherished  policy 
with  them. 

The  jirand  North  American  Andis,  and  the  noio  to  us  doniestir  Pacific 
Ocean,  have  roceived  oidy  faint  appreciation  and  acknowledgement ;  post- 
poned in  development  from  insufficient  and  stingy  lej^islation  or  Ity  un- 
friiiiillij  silence. 

Tdku.mal  Science,  coming  to  be  rightly  understood  and  to  be  ac- 
cepted, offers  itself  to  correct  the  general  judgment  and  to  rectify  and  re- 
inforce the  cotKjuering  forces  of  wund  progress.  The  grand  pioneer  urmij, 
having  solidly  established  its  lodgments  around  tlic  whole  encircling  rim 
of  our  national  territory,  gathers  its  columns  faces  inwards,  a.>isumes  a 
concentric  movement,  departs  from  the  seas  and  from  river-lines  to  con- 
verge on  the  centre.     These  columns  unite  by  their  flanks.     They  per- 


i 


m 


'Hi 


m 


w  m 


9G 


TIlEltMM    AMF/nCA. 


petuiillv  iiKToaso  in  nuniliers.  prossuro,  and  activity.  The  iiistinc/  nf 
gravitation,  onliiilitonod  liy  TIIEH.mal  SCIKXCK,  jiains  vohicity,  .stciidi- 
ness.  anil  victory  without  tumult. 

The  traces  of  frcop'aiiliical  rniaiThij  abate  rajiitlly.  They  are  aliout 
finally  to  be  extiniiuislied  forever,  by  the  riiieninjr  niovenTent  which  will 
soon  re-annex  to  us  the  area  of  the  Mexican  Kepublic,  on  the  one  flank; 
the  whole  area  of  the  Canailas.  on  the  other  flank. 

All  that  is  necessary  for  this  achievement,  lonjj  in  preparation,  ap- 
proaches its  accomplishment.  To  fold  to  us  these  <lfn.  csfic  winp:s,  too  lonj^; 
stretched  out  and  setrreuated  from  us,  will  fill  out  to  the  ocean  bounds, 
and  occupy  tliroui;h  all  its  solid  dimensions,  as  well  the  stuiiendous 
architecture  of  our  country  as  the  perfectly  graceful  anatomy  of  it.s 
comjiact  I'xpan.'ic. 

It  is  the  discovery  of  inexhaustible  precious  metals  within  a  projntinns 
thirmal  7M\\c  that  gives  perjietual  success  to  the  (ioLl)  Fkvkr.  This 
defines  itself  as  "  the  indefinite  supply  of  koiiikI  money  for  the  peo]»le. 
by  their  own  individual  and  voluntary  labor."  This  is  the  discovery  of 
the  profound  want  and  necessity  of  human  society.  It  is  the  final  and 
exhausting  .solution  of  the  heretofore  enigmatical  question,  "  What  is 
the  function  and  what  i.s  the  power  of  finance  in  human  organized  .socie- 
ties ?"  The  FIX>  NCIAL  PROBLEAI,  cs.sential  to  the  healthy  growth  of  every 
other  problem  in  the  scheme  of  civilization,  is  revealed,  identified,  and 
solved. 

The  land  area  of  the  Territory  of  Colorado  is  75,rOO,<:nO  of  acres.  To 
reduce  this  area  to  use  and  private  possession  requires  §100,000,000  to 
be  paid  by  the  penp^r  to  the  Federal  government.  This  immense  sum  is 
wrung  from  the  meritorious  and  self-sacrificing  labor  of  the  pioneers — it 
is  all  carried  forth  and  disbursed  elsewhere.  This  is  a  ffahcl  tax  ;  uncon- 
stitutional, aecumnlative  over  all  other  taxes,  crippling,  and  atrocious.  If 
this  sum  may  be  retained  among  those  who  pay  it,  the  gain  will  lie  to 
them  8200,000,000.  It  may  be  retained  to  reinforce  and  enhance  the 
creative  power  of  the  pioneer  army. 

If  the  State  of  Colorado,  and  other  similar  Territories,  be  sanctioned  and 
self-government  established,  this  may  with  ease  be  achieved.  Let  the 
sy.stem  of  land  surveys  and  the  price  be  untouched,  but  the  payments 
enter  the  Sinte  treasury.  The  disbursements  shall  be  restricted  to  the 
construction  of  a  complete  net-work  of  railways ;  to  universal  and  per- 
petual education ;  and  to  fit  the  lands  for  the  production  of  food,  by 
canals  of  irrigation  and  drainage. 

Within  the  State,  integrity  will  be  sternly  enforced.  These  generous 
public  benefits  will  be  paid  for  and  constructed  by  the  people  tliemselves. 


They  will  be  per 
the  will  u'hI  «"!» 
Tims  }tnin'r!iii 
cultivated.  Tr;i 
Civilization  and 
blc  and  erects  it.- 
eiiiiit'ihly  i-itlm  il 
dethroned. 

This  public 
mutually  emplo} 
It  may  be  transj 
of  the  seas. 

Militari/  orgn 
embraces  or  enij 
Lidiiatfial  01 
continually,  wil 
Behold,  then, 
America,  unite( 
birth  of  *('('-■  an 
The  existenc( 
possible  or  untl 
forces  suddenly 
reverse  their  fr 
overwhelming  s 
By  the  Lan( 
urcvl  off'  in  the 
and  tijipres.ied 
of  them  to  use 
The  Gold  I 
indiviiJiKd  and 
mull  ipUcat  ion 
in  form,  abund 
Government 
plified  universi 
elements. 

The  Cali/oi 
has  in  a  decad 
Peak.  It  ha 
regenerate,  to 
impregnable  \ 
Its  inspirii 


■K«lirl 


THERMAL   AMERICA. 


97 


They  will  be  perpetually  owned  by,  and  used  and  guarded  for  and  under 
tlic  will  and  supervision  of,  the  peojile. 

Thus  viiinrsdl  railways  come  into  existence.  The  lands  are  idiivfrsul/i/ 
cultivated.  Ti'an.s])ortation  and  travel  /iiki;  nations  and  populaiions. 
Civilization  and  c/r/'f  order  and  civic  discipline,  for  all,  beconie.s  po.ssi- 
blc  iind  erects  itself.  It  maintains  universal  authority  and  power.  Litlor 
iqiillithlij  fiihn  itself,  and  tlir  political  mid Jinancitil  roltx'r  is  pcnnnncntli/ 
dtlhi'onid. 

This  public  policy  will  combine  idle  populations  and  idle  lands,  to 
mutually  employ  each  other  and  to  lire  up  the  stajinant  torpidity  of  both. 
It  may  be  transi)lanted  into  Siberia  and  into  all  the  coutinents  and  islands 
of  the  seas. 

Mi/itari/  organization,  essentially  monarchical  and  which  but  partially 
embraces  or  employs  a  whole  j)opulation,  will  go  out  of  existence. 

hidiistriid  oryanization,  which  employs  ALL  LABOR,  uniformly  and 
eoiitiiiually,  will  displace  and  supersede  it. 

Behold,  then,  in  the  novel  and  ausjiicious  THERMAL  splendor  of  Xorth 
Antiric-a,  united  with  its  physical  confku'RATION  and  position,  the 
birth  {){'  ncir  and  overwhelming  powers  and //v.s7(  forces! 

The  existence  of  thcsi,,  or  their  comliination,  has  heretofure  been  ini- 
pcssible  or  unthought  of  in  human  experience.  These  fresh  jwwcrs  and 
forces  suddenly  unveil  themselves,  ferment  and  modify  all  societies  and 
reverse  their  fronts.  They  dictate  a  cosmopolitan  comity  and  assume  an 
overwhelming  sway. 

By  the  Land  System,  the  idle  lands  throughout  the  world  are  me.as- 
ured  off  in  the  small.  They  are  made  attainal)lo  for  starving  multitudes 
and  (ippres.'.ril  lab(*rers.  An  avarice  for  the  possession  and  e(uiversion 
of  them  U>  use  in  this  form  is  kindled  throughout  all  population.^. 

The  Gold  Fever  is  the  indefinite  production  of  sound  money  by  the 
individual  and  voluntary  labor  of  the  people.  This  is  fret  tnouei/ ;  tlie 
nuiltiplication  of  money  capitals  in  the  small,  independent  and  indicidnnl 
in  form,  abundant  in  quantity,  and  prospectively  indefinite. 

Government  credit,  rightly  understood,  reduced  to  discipline  and  am- 
plified universally,  becomes  available  to  combine  and  utilize  these  popular 
elements. 

The  California  Gold  Fever  had  its  invention  and  birth  in  18-18.  It 
has  in  a  decade  of  years  trans])lanted  itself  to  Australasia  and  to  Pike's 
Peak,  It  has  permeated  mankind  as  an  electric  fluid,  to  animate,  to 
regenerate,  to  exalt  humanity.  It  permanently  fortifies  pkouress  with 
impregiuible  power  and  activity. 

Its  inspiring  democratic  genius  has,  within  a  quarter  of  a  century. 


iff 


•  %t 


i 


■« 


98 


TIfEIiMAL   AMERICA. 


covered  the  continents  with  railways  and  with  telegraphs.  It  economizes 
navigation  by  its  reduction  to  steam  ferries  upon  the  oceans  and  tele- 
graphic cables  upon  its  profound  bed. 

Immortal  railways  extend  ♦'temselves,  to  become  a  universal  sy.stem.  nver 
all  the  land  of  the  globe!  The  dwarfing  power,  the  waste,  the  piratical 
temper,  the  monopoly  of  sea  navigation  is  at  an  end.  Its  despotism  and 
arrogance  over  the  rural  populations  is  absorbed  and  reversed. 

We  have  seen  the  energies  of  the  American  people,  bringing  into  line 
and  into  use  thc^c  new  powers,  span  their  continent  with  the  Pacific 
Railicai/,  as  with  the  rapidity  of  lightning  from  a  mountain  cloud. 

Availing  themselves  of  the  favorable  thermal  warmth  upon  the  Phitrau, 
and  ujion  the  inmiediate  sea-coasts,  bathed  by  the  Asiatic  Gulf  Stream 
(the  Suro-Siwo),  they  will  continue  to  expand  their  work  to  Behring's 
Straits,  where  all  the  continents  are  united. 

This  will  prolong  itself  along  the  similarly  propitious  thermal  selvage 
of  the  Oriental  Kussian  coasts,  into  China. 

To  prolong  this  unbroken  line  of  Cosmopolitan  Railavays  along 
the  latitmlinal  Plateau  of  Asia,  to  Moscow,  to  Berlin,  to  Paris,  to 
Madrid,  and  to  London,  will  not  have  long  delay. 

The  less  significant  and  isolated  continents  of  the  Southern  Hemi- 
sphere— South  America,  Africa,  and  Australasia — will  be  reached  by 
feeders  through  Panama,  Suez,  and  the  chain  of  Oriental  peninsulas 
and  islands.  The  whole  area  and  all  the  populations  of  the  globe  will  be 
thus  united  and  fused  by  land  travel  and  by  railicays. 

Behold  what  a  short  quarter  of  a  century  in  time  has  sufficed  to 
originate  and  accomplish,  in  an  age  awakened  and  armed  with  the  subtle 
democratic  power  of  free  and  abundant  gold  ! 

"What  celerity  of  motion  !  What  vivacity  of  progress  !  What  victo- 
rious, what  triumphant,  what  sublime  energies !  What  works  of  magni- 
tude !  How  benignant  to  mankind  !  How  prophetic  of  the  future ! 
How  charitable  to  universal  humanity  1 


wmmm 


us  thermal  selvafre 


Railways  alou<' 
rlin,    to  Paris,    to 


CHAPTER   X. 


THE   NORTH   AMERICAN   MISSION. 


Ix  the  current  of  ages,  mysteries  become  sciences.  Vafruc  speculation, 
long  f'crnientintr,  and  jierjilexod  by  obscure  doubts,  produces  facts.  These 
crystallize  into  precious  truth.  From  the  blind  conjectures  of  Astrol- 
oay  has  dawned  the  science  of  Astronomy ;  from  Alchemy  has  come 
Chemistry. 

The  American  jyeojyJe  now  reach  and  cross  the  threshold,  where  they 
cnuTse  from  the  twilijiht  of  the  futile  world  of  thought  behind.  They 
enter  into  the  full  and  perpetual  light  and  promise  ofpolllical  and  socia/ 
science. 

A  glance  of  the  eye,  thrown  across  the  Xortli  Americnn  continent, 
accompanying  the  course  of  the  sun  from  ocean  to  occaji.  reveals  an 
extraordinary  landscape.  It  displays  iuunense  forces,  characterized  by 
order,  iictivity,  and  progress. 

The  structure  of  nature — the  marching  of  ?  vast  population — the  crea- 
tions of  the  people,  individually  and  combined — are  seen  in  infinite  vavieties 
of  form  and  gigantic  dimensions.  Farms,  cities,  States,  public  works, 
define  themselves,  flash  into  form,  accumulate,  combine,  and  harmonize. 

The  pioneer  army  perpetually  advances,  reconnoitres,  strikes  to  the  front. 
Empire  plants  itself  upon  the  trails.  Agitation,  creative  energy,  industry, 
throb  throughout  and  animate  this  crowding  deluge.  Conclusive  occupa- 
tion, solidity,  pemianence,  and  a  stern  discipline,  attend  every  movement 
and  illustrate  every  camp. 

The  American  realizes  that  "  Progress  is  God."  He  clearly  recognizes 
and  accepts  the  continental  mission  of  his  country  and  his  people.  His 
faith  is  impregnably  fortified  by  this  vision  of  power,  unity,  and  forward 
motion. 

As  es.sential  to  all  clearness  of  illustration,  familiarity  with  the  geoy- 
rapJii/  and  physical  structure  of  the  American  continent  seems  to  me 
indispensable. 

Assuming  the  division  of  the  Northern  and  Southern  Continents  to  be 
at  Pantima.  from  the  same  point  depart  the  northern  and  southern  systems 
of  the  Andes.     These  two  systems  of  mountains  assume  special  forms  of 

99 


•ill 


;  t 


II 


\ 


n 


I 


1 

t 

1 

i. 

I 

100 


TI/E  KOHTH  AM  ERIC  AX  M/i\SIOX. 


ondi 


ith  the 


of 


structure,  each  one  cor 

Tliey  form  the  biickboiie  of  the  skeletons  upon  which  the  continents  are 

several  y  constructed. 

c  Southern  Atide  .  risiiijr  out  of  the  ocean  at  Cape  Horn,  traverse 
withotit  interruption  from  south  to  north  the  whole  length  of  the  conti- 
nent. They  form  a  continuous  escarpment  not  remote  from  the  shore  of 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  curving  with  its  indentations. 

Approaching  the  eipuitor,  an  expansion  to  the  east  forms  the  Peruvian 
Plateau,  and  is  prolonged  into  the  triangle  of  Brazil.  The  prolongations 
in  this  direction  extend  to  the  Atlantic,  and  separate  asunder  the  radiant 
basins  of  the  La  Plata*  Amazon,  Orinoco,  and  Magdalcna  Kivers.  The 
shape  of  the  continent,  enveloped  all  round  by  the  sea,  and  that  of  the 
mountain  system,  are  reciprocally  fitted  to  each  other. 

The  Xorthcrn  Amlin,  departing  from  J'uikiiiih  and  contracted  by  the 
seas,  traverse  Central  America  to  Tehuantepec.  From  hence,  an  inmiense 
expansion  in  width  of  the  Northern  Continent  is  accompanied  by  a  cor- 
responding increase  i:.  the  magnitude  and  altitude  of  the  mountain 
system. 

An  immense  I'hitaiv,  flanked  by  the  Cordilleras,  expands  from  sea  to 
sea.  On  the  cant  the  Cordillera  of  the  Eocky  IMountains  rises  flush  from 
tile  shores  of  the  Mexican  Gulf  On  the  iveat  th.,  Cordillera  Nevada 
rises  from  the  shores  of  the  ocean  and  the  California  Gulf 

The  Sierra  Nevada,  the  Western  Cordillera,  like  the  Southern  Andes, 
erects  itself  eontiiuunisly  from  the  Pacific  Ocean,  whose  indented  shore 
it  accompanies  to  Behring  Strait. 

The  Eastern  Cordillera  obliques  from  the  IMexican  Gulf,  where  the 
latter  is  curved  to  the  east  by  the  immense  increasing  amplitude  of  the 
Northern  Continent.  This  Cordillera  is  flanked  lienceforward  along  its 
biise  liy  the  ^lissi.ssippi  basin,  whose  indented  shore  and  plain  it  con- 
tinuously overlooks. 

In  tlie  neighborhood  of  the  40th  degree  of  latitude,  the  maximum  width 
of  the  Northern  Continent  is  reached.  This  continent  differs  from  the 
Southern  in  the  intense  magnitude  of  its  anatomy.  Its  whole  area,  alike 
with  each  of  its  composing  details,  is  thus  magnified.  The  radiant  basins 
of  the  Mississipjti,  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  Athabasca, 
depart  from  it.  The  Northern  Aiules  here  attain  a  breadth  of  1200  miles, 
and  assume  their  most  stupend<u>s  dimensions.  They  include  many  snowy 
sierras  and  a  multitude  of  peaks. 

From  this  latitude  of  greatest  expansion,  the  nuiuntain  system  contracts 
towards  the  north :  the  Cordilleras  converge  at  Behring's  Strait  as  at 
Tehuantepec :    tluy  are  again  condensed  into  one.     The  system  of  the 


Northern  An 

area  of  Nort 

Defined  Ijj 

on  all  point> 

lengtli,  and 

north-northw 

identifies  the 

This  simil 

systems.     Tl 

and   Chili   t 

diverge  with 

ruvian  Plate 

New  Granad 

and  the  exte 

If,  then,  t 

be  arranged 

five  years,  tl 

America  in  i 

This  simp 

the  mind,  it 

the  stupendt 

all  the  radia 

radiate  or  d 

condense  tlu 

This  stuj 

into  two  he 

Atlantic,  tow 

Here  is  the  i 

To  this  ci 

basins,  is  at 

march  to  m 

We  have 

plete  dimen.' 

of  north  hit 

characterize 

on  either  ot 

confluent  ri 

protrudes  it 

focal  region 

the   confine 

outflanking 


THE  NORTH  AMERICAN  MISSION. 


101 


Northern  Andes  thus  occupies  and  elevates  itself  aljove  one-third  of  the 
area  of  North  America. 

Detiiied  by  itself,  it  is  a  prolonged  diamond-shaped  parallelogram,  faced 
on  all  points  by  the  Cordilleras,  lonyltudliiid  in  position,  IKMIO  miles  in 
len"'th,  and  1200  in  width.  It  has  a  direction  from  south-.southeast  to 
north-northwest.  Similitude  in  anatomical  structure  therefore  perfectly 
identifies  the  two  continents. 

This  similitude  of  profile  holds  eqiuilly  between  the  two  mountain 
systems.  The  Suntherii  Andes  exhibit  in  their  cour.se  through  Patagonia 
and  Chili  two  summit  ridges  parallel  and  in  close  proximity.  These 
diverge  with  the  increasing  width  of  the  continent,  and  enclo.xe  the  Pe- 
ruvian Plateau  and  its  extensions  into  Bolivia  and  the  elevated  plains  of 
New  Granada.  The  same  peculiarity  is  seen  in  narrow  Central  America 
and  the  extension  to  the  north. 

If,  then,  the  imperfectly  developed  anatomy  of  a  youth  of  five  years 
be  arranged  side  by  side  with  that  of  his  maturity  at  the  age  of  thirty- 
five  years,  the  relative  resemblances  and  contrasts  of  South  and  North 
America  in  their  whole  anatomy  will  be  familiarly  illustrated. 

This  simplicity  of  structure  pervading  the  whole  .system,  being  held  in 
the  mind,  it  is  nianifest  that  the  On-dillcra  of  the  lioclij  Muunfjiins  is 
the  stupendous  dor.sal  foundation  upon  whose  prodigious  mass  and  solidity 
all  the  radiant  limbs  rest.  From  this,  including  the  Alleghanies,  they  all 
radiate  or  depend  as  outliers.  Into  this  they  all  ultimately  group  and 
condense  themselves. 

This  stupendous  longitudinal  Cordillera  segregates  the  physical  globe 
into  two  hemispheres.  These  two  hemispheres  present  the  basin  of  the 
Atlnitfic  towards  the  rising  sun,  thatof  tiie  Paeijic  towards  the  setting  sun. 
Here  is  the  supreme  meridian  altitude  up  to  which  the  whole  globe  slopes ! 

To  this  crowning  ridge  human  society,  emerging  from  the  two  ocean 
basins,  is  at  present  climbing;  the  two  halves  i»3nt  face  to  face;  they 
march  to  meet — to  unite  and  harmonize  over  this  summit ! 

We  have  seen  that  the  American  continent  expands  to  its  most  com- 
plete dimensions  and  amplitude  where  it  is  traversed  by  \\\q  fortieth  degree 
of  north  latitude.  A  symmetrical  harmony,  perfect  in  every  detail,  here 
characterizes  all  the  departments  of  nature — an  ample  depth  of  seaboard 
on  either  ocean — the  sujireme  expanse  of  the  Mississippi  Basin — its  great 
confluent  rivers — the  grand  width  of  the  mountain  Plateau,  which  here 
protrudes  its  extreme  salient  corners  to  the  east  and  to  the  west — to  this 
focal  region  it  rises  in  altitude,  nni.ss,  and  dimensions,  from  every  point  of 
the  continental  horizon.  It  here  displays  over  its  area,  and  in  the 
outflanking  Cordilleras,  a  hundred  snow-crowned  peaks. 


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110 


1(1.-. 


lOO 


J  B.Lippincott  S  Co.Pltitt. 


102 


THE  NORTH  AMERICAN  MISSION 


If 


Here  arise  in  cloud-coiiijiolling  majesty  the  continental  jiillars,  Long's 
Peak  and  Pike's  Peak.  15(1  miles  apart;  through  the  intermediate  sijuce 
traverses  the  fo  it  it  f/i  liii/neot'  north  latitude.  From  their  summits  depart 
the  waters  to  seek  the  Asiatie  and  Euroj)ean  seas.  Hither  the  eontiiiental 
slopea  mounting  upwards  intni  all  the  oceans  converge  and  culminate: 
from  hence  all  the  descending  waters  radiate. 

Here,  in  the  midst  of  the  grand  works  of  nature — multitudinous  in 
variety,  suhlime  in  vastness,  in  order,  and  in  beauty — are  assemliled  all 
the  natural  gilts  whicli  human  society  needs,  or  may  demand  for  the  most 
complete  development.  Here  the  supreme  Cordillera  envelo])s  in  its  fnlils 
a  group  of  gigantic  valleys  known  as  the  "  S>/>ifini  nf  the  J'liirf  of  Col,, 
railu." 

Of  all  the  gems  displayed  here  and  there  in  the  physical  varieties 
which  checker  the  earths  surface,  this  group  is  the  most  gigantic  in 
dimensions ;  the  most  transcendently  excellent  in  hitnUty ;  the  mo.-*t 
wonderful,  curious,  and  attractive. 

The  Pakcs  hf.stiude  the  line  of  wav-tuavel  of  mankind  at 
a  point  of  i'akamocnt  control. 

Here  meet  and  mingle  mountains,  plains,  valleys,  rivers,  in  confluent 
affluence,  in  immensity  of  proj)ortions,  order,  and  graceful  fori.is.  The 
pungent  and  tonic  atmo.sphere  preserves  the  highest  standard  of  modera- 
tion and  excellence  round  the  year.  The  oceans  are  not  far  off",  and  are 
easily  accessible  over  uniformly  descending  slopes. 

Pastoral  agriculture,  mining,  arable  agriculture,  manufactures,  com- 
merce— each  of  these  has  the  essential  elements  of  a  couijuering  power ; 
— they  are  here  all  blended,  each  self-supporting,  and  each  stimulating  all 
the  rest.  The  affluence  of  nature  and  the  prolific  generosity  of  her  pro- 
portions are  miraculous. 

The  Parcs  occupy,  longitudinall}'.  the  centre  of  Colarado,  passing 
through  and  through,  from  south  to  north.  The  whole  area  of  Colorado, 
lOT.OllO  s(|uare  miles  (70,000,000  acres),  is  so  folded  around  them  as  to 
con.stitutc  their  frame  and  envelope,  incapable  of  being  segregated  from 
them. 

These  Parcs,  thus  mounting  from  south  to  north,  one  upon  the  other, 
are  of  very  nearly  equal  area.  They  are  the  San  Lui"  the  South,  the 
INIiddle,  and  the  *,  -rth  Parcs. 

The  elliptical  area  of  the  San  Luis  Pare  is  18,000  square  miles 
(11,520,000  acres).  Their  similarity  one  to  another,  as  members  of  one 
family,  is  perfect.  The  internal  details  of  structure,  form,  and  scenery 
are  infinitely  variegated.  Kach  one,  examined  by  itself,  seems  to  surj)ass 
the  rest  in  eminent  convenience  and  beauty.     The  climatic  geniality  of 


"mmmsmtmmm 


THE  NORTH  AMEIllCAN  MISSIOS. 


103 


L  OF  MANKIND  AT 


10  upon  the  other, 


toniporaturc  and  salubrity  have  not  a  sinjrle  blemish.  They  perpetually 
pruiiiiit  and  .stimulate  mental  enerjry  and  j)hysical  activity. 

I  am  .struj.'f:ling  to  narrate  faithtully  the  homespun  facts  of  nature :  to 
exiiiiixerate  is  far  from  my  intention.  The  .splendid  ma;_'nitude  of  the 
anliitccture — the  faultless  proportions  everywhere  discernible — the  '.rrace- 
fiil  u'riiiipini^  of  propitious  and  beni;^nant  element.s — the  far-searehiiij;; 
vi>i(iii  and  re.sj)lendent  panorama — all  these  unite  to  reveal  to  the  judg- 
ment that  omnipotent  nature  here  culminates  her  work,  and  has  planted 
the  life-'rivin<^  heart  of  the  terrestrial  .scheme. 

To  illustrate  this  wonderful  eontiguration,  as  with  a  model  of  dl- 
mi'iiiifi've  size,  the  Alps  of  Europe  j)resent  an  example.  A  spectator, 
from  the  .supreme  summit  of  the  Helvetian  Peaks,  beholds  radiating 
from  his  feet  the  diverging  chainiels  of  the  Po,  the  Rhine,  the  Rhone, 
ami  the  Danube.  As  they  depart,  the  small  lake  basin.s  or  pmcs  of 
Geneva  and  Constance  gather  the  drippings  of  the  glaciers ;  and  the 
river  basins  open  out  to  share  between  them  the  widening  expanse  of 
the  cciitinent. 

The  waters  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea  are  visible  towards  Genoa — those 
of  the  Adriatic  towards  Venice.  Biscay,  and  the  German  and  Pontic 
Seas,  are  more  remote.  Within  a  horizon  whose  diameter  is  300  miles, 
are,  at  present,  congregated  45,0(10,000  of  population,  who  occupy  the 
river  basins  and  the  rugged  ground. 

Since  the  wars  of  Julius  Cte.sar,  the  progress  of  the  people  within  this 
area  '>.is  been  sluggish  and  jiainful ;  civilization  yet  continues  crepuscular, 
and  its  languid  tire  is  maintained  with  difficulty.  A  hostile  climatologj-, 
forever  incubating  upon  nature  and  man,  saddens  labor,  chills  its  elas- 
ticity, and  .stagmites  hope.  The  evil  passions  of  force  and  despair  rule ; 
the  energies  of  labor  and  virtue  are  crushed  out  by  a  perj)etually  cor- 
roding pressure. 

The  incessant  vapors  from  the  neighboring  seas,  brought  in  by  every 
wind,  bathe  perpetually  the  mountain  altitudes :  these  are  thus  enciused 
to  their  very  roots  with  unfathonnible  depths  of  ice,  which  never  melts. 
The  soil  of  Europe,  saturated  by  chilling  tugs,  and  veiled  by  them  and 
by  forests  from  the  sun,  is  cold  and  sour — the  atmosphere  febrile  and 
inimical  to  life. 

Seamed  with  mountain  bones  from  west  to  east — pinched  in  and  trenched 
upon  around  its  margin  by  the  salt  wastes  of  Biscay  and  the  German 
Ocean — by  the  Baltic,  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  Portic  Se;is — Europe 
is  a  promontory  pendent  from  the  solid  dimensions  of  Asia,  having  only 
one-sixth  of  its  area. 

Its  convex  surface  and  ragged  shores — its  humid  atmosphere — its  large 


1         I'J 


! 


m 


i^ 


1 1 


ly 


104 


THE  NORTH  AMKUICAy  MISSION. 


area,  oxpaiuliiig  from  an  I'djic  nf  \.\w  tiiniiorate  into  the  friijid  zone  of 
wainitli ; — tlii'.so  ilwaif  an  well  the  hnhistiy  an  the  niiiul  of  ii>an. 

Asia  and  JMir(i|ic  iircscnt  a  (•(intiniiniis  snow-crt'stoil  wall,»(f.v^  nud  n-fKf^ 
fmni  China  to  (iilnaitar,  risinjj;  alimiitly  and  not  liir  ivinovcd  from  the 
southern  seas.  From  this  coiiitx  crest,  to  the  nortli,  descends  as  eon- 
tinuously  a  hyperhoreaii  slojje,  withdrawn  from  tlie  sun,  and  resting  only 
within  tile  oliliijue  and  ehillint:  shadow  of  his  rays. 

In  contrast,  the  li>ii<j!ti((lln<il  direction  and  douhle  structure  of  the 
North  American  And<s  opens  them  to  the  d'rectly  seurehintr  and  om- 
nijiotent  jxiwer  of  the  meridian  sun  :  tlu'ir  outward  flanks  receive  the 
temperinji  glories  of  his  morning  and  his  evening  heams. 

TItnir  oltl  cdiitiiiriitH  arc,  in  tlmir  abstract  j'urm  (jj'  struct  it  rr,  convex  a$ 
the  camil's  hack-. 

The  Cordilleras  of  North  America  and  tlieir  outliers,  from  north  to 
south  in  direction  and  ranging  round  near  the  oceans,  give  to  the  con- 
tinent a  vast  ami  sjifiii</i<i  concave  structure.  This  incessantly  receives 
and  ahsorhs  the  direct  solar  rays. 

North  America  is  a  sublinu!  anqilu'l/icatre,  of  gorgeous  fertility  and 
transcendent  proportions.  The  vast  surface  of  concentric  ba.iins  is  uni- 
formly c<ilcar<ous — it  is  scarcely  less  in  expanse;  of  area,  or  more  undu- 
lating, than  the  oceans.  This  comprehensive  area,  mellow  and  .salubrious, 
is  fattened  everywhere,  and  refreshed  l)y  the  soils  abraded  from  the  moun- 
tains. It  may  receive  by  innnigration,  and  sustain  witliout  surfeit,  the 
existing  populations  of  tlie  globe. 

Cumulative  with  this  is  the  ausjticious  structure  of  the  longitudinal 
Sierras.  Where  Colorado  embraces  and  arches  over  the  extreme  salient 
corner  of  the  Cordillera,  is  found  the  stupendous  culmination  in  bulk  and 
altitude  of  the  mountains,  of  the  valleys,  of  the  running  waters,  and  of 
the  climatology  of  the  whole  continent. 

To  this  supreme  apex  the  whole  continent  ascends,  by  easy  gradations, 
from  the  trough  of  the  Mississippi  on  the  one  liand,  from  the  shores  of 
tlie  Pacific  on  the  other  hand.  Here  is  the  summit  altitude  of  a  stuj)en- 
dous  cone  of  elevation,  who.se  diameter  has  a  foundation  of  20(tt>  miles. 

Into  the  summit  area  of  this  truncated  cone  of  elevation  are  niorti.sed 
to  a  profound  depth  the  valleys  which  make  up  the  "  System  of  tltc  Pares."* 
These  collect  and  send  forth  the  fresh  waters,  like  the  arterial  blood  gath- 
ered and  distributed  from  the  human  heart. 

From  lience  dei)art  ten  rivers :  the  North  Plattti,  to  the  north  ;  the 
South  Platte,  to  the  northeast ;  the  Kansas,  to  the  enst ;  the  Arkan.sas 
and  Canadian,  to  the  southeast ;  the  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte,  due  so  h  into 
the  Mexican  (julf ;  the  !San  Juan,  Fiagle,  and  Grand  Colorado  Kivers,  to 


THE   SOItTII  AMEmr.W    MI.SSIOX. 


105 


nicfiiir,  cunvrx  as 


tlie  nuKl/iiint,  ii'to  till!  Uulf  of  ('alifuniiaj   the  CJret'ii   IliviT,  t»i  the 
Viirtiiiri'sf. 

Tlic  Ninth  I'latto  dcsiriuls,  witlmiit  ilcflrctiiiii.  to  the  direct  mirth  for 
.VMI  miles  to  rcirivi-  the  Sweetwater.  Kiniii  this  jtoint  the  \TatiT-«haniicls 
(if  tlii^  Vellowstiiiie,  tlie  Missnuri,  ami  the  Saskatchewan  li>riii  a  ruiitiiiii- 
oiis  iiiiil  ea«y  <:vadati(iii  to  JIiiiLioii's  /{<ij/.  1'a.ssiiij:  hy  the  (in-t'ii  and 
Siiiikc  Uiveis,  where  their  extreme  sourees  intersjeet,  a  similar  cinitiniioiis 
griidiilioii  is  tuiind  out  to  llu'  Xoilli  I'mljlr. 

Tims,  upon  this  tiioiiiilnin  xidiiiiiit  uf  CiAnntiln.  the  aseendin::  valleys 
L'diivei'^e  \\»  HO  many  enormous  wedges,  ten  in  numln-r,  arnin^ed  with  their 
jKiints  fiTouiH'd  in  (umtaet. 

The  passes  over  the  Sierras,  at  the  prolonired  extremities  of  the:<u 
valleys,  re-enteriiit;  thus  upon  one  another,  are  numerous  and  easy.  They 
iiinipUte  the  throuj;h  lines  of  jia.ssa};e ai-ross  the  continent.  These  make  a 
converiiciae  here,  from  the  two  fronts  of  the  continent,  resemhlim;  the 
glolies  of  an  hour-gla.ss  communicating  through  the  stem  which  unites 
tlieiii. 

The  niiraclo  of  the.se  hroadly  exjianded  altitudes  is  their  cUnutt<Ji>gy. 
Altituiie  ahovc  the  seas;  latitude  and  longitude  ;  seclusion  from  the  .s-as; 
coiuliine  to  perfi-ct  the  moderation  in  temjieiature.  the  drYnt>ss.  the  salu- 
brity, and  the  splendor  of  the  atmosphere. 

The  light  and  fire  of  the  sun  rule  the  day  and  night,  the  .seasons,  the 
tides,  the  vtigetatioii  of  nature,  life  and  death  uiMin  the  hind  and  in  the 
soa.  IxittlicritHil  urinivc  thus  explains  how  the  mind  of  man,  in  harmony 
with  the  supreme  order  of  nature,  intuitively  adju  ts  it.si'lf  to  the  revolu- 
tions of  the  sun  and  is  temjiered  hy  1  s  heat. 

The  iiortlwrn  liemisphere  of  the  globe  ha.s  around  it  all  the  continents 
of  tli(!  land,  holding  the  dimini.shed  .seas  in  the  intervals  )x-tween  them. 
The  races  white  in  color  inhabit  and  restrict  themselves  to  a  narrow  K-lt 
or  zodiac,  girdling  this  hemispliere  of  the  continents  round  and  ri>und. 

This  belt  straddles  an  axis  of  Intvnulti/  whose  annual  mean  tem|ierature 
is  52  degrees  of  Fahrenheit :  it  has  thirty  degrees  of  hreadth.  being 
fifteen  degrees  to  the  south  and  fifteen  degrees  to  the  north  of  the  axi.s. 
Incorrectly  delineated  on  the  luiniature  globes,  this  n.cis  o/intfiisifi/  would 
correspond  with  the  40th  degree  of  north  latitude,  and  the  zone  of  tem- 
perate warmth  will  embrace  the  belt  of  the  globe  fenced  within  the  25th 
and  i'l'ith  degrees. 

lint  profound  modifications  of  temperature  are  wrought  by  tlie  alter- 
nating presence  and  special  configurations  of  oceans  and  eontinent.s:  by 
the  power  of  atmospheric  and  of  ocean  currents ;  hy  the  subtle  forces  of 
electricity,  gravitation,  and  the  iiurcurial  gestations  of  nature. 


** 


5! 


■H-'j 


lOG 


THE  NORTH  AMERICAN  MISSION. 


This  iixIk  nf  iii/tiiHi'ty  is,  tluTcforc,  an  timlulatiiiy  lino.  It  iiiclics 
towards  the  (M|ual(ir,  whcri!  it  travcrsoH  the  ileptlis  of  the  contim-nt.  It 
arclics  tdwards  tlic  luirtli  iiolc  over  i\w  ('X|)ans<'s  of  tlio  nccaiis.  Witliiii 
tills  isdtlicrinai  licit,  and  rt'strictcd  to  it.  tlu>  cdlunni  nl'tlic  liuinaii  iainily, 
with  whipiii  aliidcs  the  .saciril  and  iiis|)iri'il  tiro  of  civilization,  indniijiuiii/- 
1111/  t/ir  sun,  has  marched  from  ca.st  to  wcwt,  since  the  birth  of  titnc. 

I'lion  this  ii.cin  "/  iiifiiisifi/ htwL'  been  coiistrnctcd  the  jrrcat  jiriniary 
cities,  which  hiivc  liei'n  from  a^e  to  a;re  the  /oc/ from  which  have  nn/in/nl 
intellectual  activity  and  jiower.  Jiiininls,  and  ctinverjiing  uiion  this  axis, 
have  always  ])reHsed  the  periodical  mif^ratory  and  military  movements  of 
the  human  masses. 

These,  recoiliiii.' alike  from  northern  cold  and  from  southern  heats,  .seek 
instinctively  a  temperate  and  coniienial  warmth. 

Of  this  hiirhly  artificial  and  disciplined  .system  of  civilization  wo 
Americans  form  a  part.  It  is  transniittt;d  from  the  very  dawn  of  anticpiity, 
and  is  inherited.  History  is  the  diary  of  its  jreojrrapliical  progress,  of  its 
periods  of  hrijrhtness  and  obscurity,  of  its  stru^jilcs  and  of  its  encr^iies. 

When  society  lias  attained  its  larfjest  numeri(;al  stronjith,  accomiilisli- 
in^  the  hij.die.-t  level  of  intellipMice  and  the  lon>>;e.st  duration,  it  is  defined 
to  be  an  ritijn'rr.  History  occupies  its»;lf  with  the  biofrraphy  of  this{' 
empires — their  rise,  culmination,  and  docadenci!.  They  form  a  xuccissioii 
n\o\;'^  tin  undulating  zone  of  the  n<  *hern  hemispliere  of  the  ulobe, 
within  the  isothermal  belt.  They  for.  wi  .n  it  a  continuous  zodiac  from 
east  to  west. 

These  niijiins  are  the  Chine.se,  the  Indian,  the  Persian,  the  Grecian,  the 
Koman,  the  Spanish,  the  IJritish,  finally,  the  rcpnUlcnn  rnijiirt:  of  the 
peojile  of  North  America. 

These  are  tlu^  essential  orjianizations  which  have  received  ;  hold  intelli- 
jrontly  for  a  few  centuries  each,  the  vestal  tordi  of  civilization  ;  porjictu- 
atcd  and  transmitted  it  with  more  or  less  fidelity.  /  rr/xitt  nffulii  tin- 
fiK't,  that  this  zone  bolts  the  globe  around  where  the  continents  expand 
and  the  oceans  contract:  i*  un<lulatos  witli  the  axis  of  warm  tomiioraturo 
(52  degrees  of  mean  heal)  :  it  contains  ninety-five  one-hundrodths  of  the 
white  peojilc  of  the  globe,  and  all  its  civilizaticui ! 

As  a  perj)etual  and  instinctive  pressure  tends  to  condense  population  on 
to  the  i.srtt/irninif  twis,  so  it  thins  out  and  attenuates  in  vitality  and  num- 
bers— roj)ellod  by  ho.stile  heats  on  the  one  hand,  and  by  cold  on  the  other 
— until  the  edge  is  reached  beyond  which  the  white  races  make  no  perma- 
nent lodgment  in  either  direction. 


On  th( 
vast  niuui 
where  the 
tion. 

This  fa% 

exhibit  a 

Never  seri 

municipal 

(doulile  tin 

in  concord 

Hut  the 

mountain  s 

crn   I'iUropi 

inclement  ii 

Houthcrn  bi 

Here  th( 

left  unocci 

dwarfed  in 

telligont  ai 

Everyw 

(//r.s.s  lii'iin 

tiuns  from 

the  Persia 

the  SDUthi;, 

or  the  wat 

and  small 

If,  then 

htistile  i/ri 

society  ha 

rassed,  an 

Tlu!  sni 

form,  sho 


I 


uutliern  lieatH,  stjok 


CilAPTKR    XI. 

THE    NORTH    AMKUIl'AN    MISSION — CONTINUED. 

().\  tilt!  Orii  11/11/  Hlofv  if  AhIii,  bctwi'un  the  ulirujit  ti-niiiiiatidii  (if  the 
\i\xt  iniiiiiitaiii  hulk  iiiid  tliu  KuHtitrii  Uceaii,  in  I'oiind  an  aiii|il('  ri-<;i<iii 
whviv  the  wlujle  width  of  the  tcinp'-rtttr  ;o/(c  invites  and  I'liscs  jHijiula- 
tiiiii. 

Thi.s  favored  nrwi  is  occupied  hy  tlic  Chinese,  who.sc  institutidiis 
e.Nliildl  a  fiiowtii  of  dcvclopuicut  exti'iidiiij;  over  five  tiiousaiid  years. 
Never  seriously  iiiterru]itt'd,  jirojrress  has  .sn  jierfeeted  a  h()iiin|.:ciie(ius 
niuiiieipal  system  of  laws  and  edueatiiei,  that  l.")((,(K)l>, ()()()  of  jwipulatioii 
(doulile  that  of  all  Kurope)  are  united  in  one  harmonious  political  .sy.stem 
in  concord  and  trani|uillity. 

Hut  the  western  frontier  of  f'lllNA  is  hloekaded  hy  the  inhospitahle 
mountain  .system  which  prolonjrs  it.scll"  continunusly  from  In  ncf  to  West- 
ern Euntpe.  The  column  of  progress  has  recoiled  abrujitly  from  their 
incl(,'ni(!nt  altitudes,  aiid  restricts  it.self  to  the  narrow  niarjrin  between  their 
southern  base  aiid  the  raji<redly  indented  sea-coast. 

Hen;  the  northern  half,  or  .srH(('-zone,  of  the  isaf/irniKif  luff,  has  been 
left  uniiccu])ied ;  society  is  cut  in  half,  crippled  in  territory,  and  fatally 
dwarfed  in  variety  and  numbers.  It  hius  vej^etated  without  elasticity ;  iinin- 
tellij:ent  and  .slugf^i.sh. 

Hverywhere  pinclu^d  in  or  r- pelled  by  inland  seas,  tlif  oiiii-iird  pm- 
(/n'Ks  hiiivc  to  the  in.stfni  s/iorrs  <>/-  Kiimpr,  exhibits  only  transient  exemp- 
tions from  demoralization  and  disorder.  Absorbed  by  the  sterile  areas  of 
the  I'ersian  Gulf,  the  Pontic,  Projiontie  and  Meditern.aeaii  Seas,  land  in 
the  muthurn  half  of  the  isothermal  zone  is  here  eitlier  totally  wanting, 
or  the  water  surface  is  only  freckled  by  a  stingy  succession  of  peninsulas 
and  small  islands,  inhabited  in  broken  links. 

If,  then,  the  area  occupied  l)y  CiiiXA  be  alone  excepted,  the  narrow  and 
hostile  (jiogmithlail  structure  of  the  uiargin  along  which  the  column  of 
society  has  struggled  through  Asia  and  Eliiope,  ex{)lains  its  slow,  embar- 
ra.s.sed,  and  fitl'ul  advance. 

The  small  empires  which  have  partially  ripened  have  been  distorted  in 
form,  sliort-lived ;  disordered  by  anarchy  ;  heterogeneous  and  coiifust'd  in 

107 


I  ;•] 


108 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  MISSION. 


eleuiciits.  In  Asia  they  appear  emasculated  by  the  loss  of  the  nortlurn 
temperate  semi-zone;  in  Elroi'K,  ly  a  counterpart  deficiency  of  the 
southtrii  semi-zone. 

As  the  great  ocean  chafes  perpetually,  and  tortures  itself  anionfi  the 
narrow  seas,  only  to  become  crij)pled  in  powci  and  turbid  in  color  and 
temper :  so,  a  similar  acrid  turbulence,  and  loss  of  the  inspiring  instincts 
of  power  and  of  moderation,  have  characterized  the  mutilated  society 
cramped  in  along  the  line  of  march  through  Southern  Asia  and  the  aotith 
and  west  of  Europe. 

The  sanguinary  incubation  of  military  despotisms  over  multitudinous 
millions  of  passive  and  up  chronicled  serfs,  presents  a  sombre  canopy, 
through  whose  darkness  the  lightning  of  intelligence  has  scarcely  flashed. 
Sanguinary  monarchies  and  submis.«'ve  subjects  alone  are  seen. 

The  instinct  of  the  American  people  has  located  and  erected  the  grand 
maritime  cities  of  Philadelphia,  New  York,  and  Baltimore,  where  our 
continent  receives  the  axis  of  the  isothermal  zone.  Entering  here  from 
the  east,  and  favored  by  the  auspicious  architecture  of  our  continent,  this 
axis  of  intensity  traverses  it  athwart  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

It  deviates  little  from  the  fortieth  degree  of  lat^ude,  arching  from  it 
slightly  in  the  middle  range  towards  the  south.  Here  au.spicious  nature 
unveils  every  propitious  gift.  The  energy  of  progress,  always  salient  upon 
this  line,  has  located  along  it  all  the  first  selected  and  cliiof  cities — Pitts- 
burg, Cincinnati,  St.  Louis,  Leavenworth  and  Kansas,  Denver,  Salt  Lake 
City,  Virginia,  San  Francisco.  Here  the  intrepid  energies  of  the  pioneer 
population  have  first  and  chiefly  condensed  themselves  in  force. 

But  we  have  seen  that  North  America  is  a  vast  amphitheatre,  and  is 
concave  in  configur."'tion.  Its  valleys,  its  mountain  chains,  its  rivers,  its 
Cordilleras,  its  ocean  boundaries;  are  all  and  all  alike  longitudinal. 

The  whole  breadth  of  continent,  beneath  the  isotherm (d  zone  from  Cuba 
to  Hudson's  Bay,  presents  an  undeviating  harmony.  This  longitudinal 
expansion  runs  flush  into  the  arctic  zone,  and  into  the  equatorial  zone, 
absolutely  without  any  barrier  or  obstruction  to  its  undulating  smoothness 
of  surface. 

Nature  is  benignant  and  graceful  throughout  her  wl  ole  scheme,  and  is 
propitious  in  the  working  of  all  lier  laws,  and  in  every  clement.  The 
longitudincj  mountains  receive  the  glory  of  the  morning  and  evening  sun 
upon  their  flanks,  the  noontide  beams  upon  their  summits — they  cast  no 
chilling  shadow. 

The  sun's  immortal  flame  is  never  withheld,  hut  perpetually  instils  his 
meridian  tire  through  all  living  nature,  and  into  the  hearts  of  men,  of 
women,  and  of  growing  children.     Humanity,  nurtured  in  this  afllucmc 


of  divine  wan 

and  immortal 

The  contr 

(lisfcrnible. 

perennial  dis( 

and  condense 

In  Asia  r 

eordiint  natii 

by  1:57  indei 

this  vast  arci 

ism  have  bee 

viduiil  liberti 

few,  traii.'^ien 

XouTii  A 

lilierties,   sel 

been    normal 

military  desj 

tinent. 

The  Indes 
one  by  one, 
suflicient  nu: 
advance  fron 
ignorance,  ai 
ileniorratic-r 
perpetuated 
As  the  col 
in  a  closed  c 
oceiins  and 
being  eipiid 
HlKOl'K 
vest,  deboui 
slopes. 

Asia  sin 
contains  hi 
di'tached  is' 
I'ul  of  activ 
The  disti 
the  sun,  is 
These  ar 
these  contr 
America. 


THE  NORTH  AMERICAS  MISSION. 


109 


'qiiiitoriuf  zone, 
iiic  sniootliness 


of  divine  waniith,  instinetively  receives  iinJ  eultivatcs  discipline,  eliistieity, 
and  immortal  pr0j.7e.ss. 

The  contra.sted  structure  of  the  continents  is  therefore  familiarly 
discernible.  The  one  couvrx — its  surface  se<rregated — and  afflicted  with 
jiercnnial  di.^cord.  The  other  coucnir — formed  to  concentrate  all  things, 
and  condense  them  into  everlasting  unity,  order,  and  concord. 

In  Asia  resides  a  pojiulation  of  84(),()()0,(IOtl,  distributed  into  ofiO  di.s- 
ciirdant  nationalities.  In  Ei:rope  2r)9,(MKI,1»0U  of  population,  distracted 
by  1I>7  indeiiendcnt  morarchies.  Among  these  immense  hosts,  and  over 
this  vast  area,  since  the  dawn  of  history,  monarchy  and  military  despot- 
ism have  been  invariable  and  universal.  The  struggles  to  achieve  the  indi- 
vidual liberties,  self-government,  and  civilization  of  the  people  have  been 
few,  trau.><ient,  and  abortive. 

NdHTii  A.MKRicA  has  a  population  of  r><),0()(),(KIO.  With  them  the 
liberties,  self-government,  and  civilization  of  the  people  are  and  have 
been  ncrmal  and  universal  in  principle  and  practice.  Monarchy  and 
military  di'spotism  have  been  always  unknown  and  absent  from  our  con- 
tinent. 

The  Indestructible  jirinciple.s  of  social  and  political  science  are  rescued, 
one  by  one,  from  the  chaos  and  rubbish  of  Europe.  Tiiey  are  known  in 
sufficient  nund)ers  to  perjietuate.  to  combine  am;  xbrtify  themselves — to 
advance  from  discovery  to  discover}' — from  victory  to  victory,  over  force, 
ignorance,  and  blind  error.  Rescued  f'\iui  the  (piicksands  of  the  past, 
ihin<jcratlc-r".puhUcnupi)wcr,  rightly  un  lerstanding  itself,  has  here  set  and 
pcrjK'tuated  in  the  world  its  own  indestroctible  foundations. 

As  the  continent.s  and  oceans  of  the  n(jrth"rn  hemisphere  wrap  the  globe 
in  a  clo.sed  circle,  Amfilcn  /.s  an  islnnil.  She  is  intermediate  between  the 
oceans  and  the  outward  jjrotruding  extremities  of  the  other  continent, 
being  c(|uidistant  from  them. 

Ki'Kul'K  opens  all  the  outlets  of  its  inland  seas  and  rivers  towards  the 
nrs/,  debouching  on  to  our  Atlantic  front,  towards  which  its  whole  surface 
slopes. 

Asia  similarly  piv'sents  to  our  Pacific  front  an  Oiuiitiif  slope.  This 
contains  her  great  rivers,  the  densest  masses  of  lier  i>oi)ulation,  and 
ilctached  i.slands  of  great  area.  Tb'"  >:  gorgeous  archipelagoes  arc  brim- 
ful of  active  populations,  and  of  infinite  production. 

The  distance  from  the  KiimpcdH  to  the  Asinn  shores,  as  we  accompany 
the  sun,  is  l((,(((l()  geographical  miles! 

These  ancient  masses  of  population,  (lien,  fxivk  to  hack,  and  descending 
these  contra.sted  slopes,  both  IVont  America — they  face  one  am)ther  iicro.ss 
America.     The  short  line  of  mutual  approach  is  the  axis  ol"  isothermal 


I 


m 


110 


THE  NORTH   AMERICAN  MISSION. 


warmth,  pcnotrating  four-fifths  of  the  land,  and  nine-tenths  of  the  popu- 
'ition  of  the  {."■lobe  ! 

lliia  In  tJie  line  of  way-trawl  of  all  the  white  races,  of  the  coniwercia. 
uctivity  and  industry  of  the  zodiac  of  cicilization  ! 

As,  then,  tliis  interval  of  North  America  is  filled  up,  the  afliliation  of 
all  niankird  will  be  aceoniplished  :  proximity  recognized  :  the  distractions 
of  intervfiiiiig  oceans  and  equatorial  heats  cease :  the  remotest  nations  be 
grouped  together  and  fused  into  one  universal  and  hamionittus  system  of 
fratenud  relations. 

Here,  then,  at  this  moment,  by  the  arrival  of  the  American  people  on 
the  summit  of  the  Cordillera,  ascending  and  conquering  both  its  flanks 
simultaneously,  tlie  most  stariling  fact  of  all  time  reveals  itself — aus- 
picious to  the  whole  human  race,  and  pregnant  with  tlie  most  portentousi 
and  immediate  consequences. 

Suddenly  the  mysteries  of  geograi)hica)  progress  are  resolved — light  and 
victory  substitute  them.selves  for  '.arkness  and  distrust.  Why  the  halves 
of  the  human  race,  marching  the  one  half  towards  the  setting  sun,  and 
the  other  half  towards  the  rising  sun,  and  ])erpetually  departing  a.sunder — 
separated  in  the  reai  by  insuperable  physical  barriers — broken  apart  by 
hostile  forces  and  ob.?tacles — have  maintained  feebly,  and  often  entirely 
lo.st,  their  mutual  relations,  is  clearly  revealed  ! 

Now,  at  thix  hour,  this  progress  of  mutual  departure  is  complete,  and 
completely  reversed.  Upon  the  auspicious  arena  of  the  American  conti- 
nent and  the  I'acifie  Ocean,  these  columns  surprise  one  another  in  over- 
wheh  >ing  force  and  numbers.  They  encounter,  face  to  face,  and  front  to 
front.  The  mission  of  each  and  both  manifests  itself  That  peace  and 
charity  are  possible  in  the  world  is  recognized — chronic  war  unnecessary, 
and  a  consuming  blunder. 

The.se  multitudes  behold  one  another — the  weapons  of  mutual  .slaughter 
are  hurled  away — the  sanguinary  pa.ssions  of  a  consuming  rapacity  find  a 
check — a  majority  of  the  human  family  is  found  to  accept  and  protect  the 
es-sential  teachings  of  Christianity  in  practice. 

Koom  is  discovered  for  industrial  virtue  and  industrial  power.  The 
civilized  masses  of  the  world  meet — they  mutually  explain  and  under- 
stand one  another — they  are  m  itually  enlightened,  and  fraternize  to  re- 
con.stitute  human  relations  and  institutions  in  harmony  with  nature  and 
with  God. 

The  world  may  cease  to  be  a  unanimous  military  camp,  incubated  only 
by  the  malignant  principles  of  arbitrary  force  an<l  altject  submission. 

A  new  and  grand  order  in  human  iiffairs  inaugurates  itself  out  of  these 
immense  concurrent  discoveries  and  events. 


THE  NORTH  AMERICAN  MISSION. 


Ill 


The  groat  heart  of  American  society  palpitates  with  new  fire.«,  i  ipelled 
by  a  univei-sal  instinct,  inspiring  discipline  in  action  and  rectitude  of 
purpose.  Science  illuminates  their  work  ;  circumstances  favor  and  dictate 
success  to  their  energies. 

A  divine  light,  issuing  out  of  the  obscurity  of  the  past,  shines  upon 
our  country  and  upon  our  people.  It  speaks  out  in  the  never-silent  oracles 
of  Nature,  in  response  to  which  each  inilicidiial  heart  is  free  to  re-echo  and 
reflect.  A  finite  goal  is  unveiled  to  them,  and  distinctly  seen — its  pos- 
ses.sion  and  fruition  arc  intelligibly  revealed. 

The  (fratdr,  from  1840  to  1850,  has  become  forever  memorable  by  a 
crowning  discovery  made  and  victory  won  by  the  genius  of  the  pioneers. 
I  mean  the  "  OOLD  FEVKR."  Hie  Imlffinite  production  tiiid  inidtipli- 
catioti  of  sound  money  hi/  the  individual  and  voluntary  labor  of  the 
jieoplc. 

Lnhor  and  industry  construct  their  own  empire  and  assume  the  adminis- 
tration of  governments.  Steam  upon  the  ocean  and  upon  the  land :  more 
potent  than  armies :  conden.ses  labor,  and  magnifies  indefinitely  its  power 
and  its  results.  The  ameliorating  graces  of  commerce  are  rescued  from 
the  despotic  monopoly  of  riparian  cities,  isolated  on  the  fringe  of  the  sea. 

They  transport  themselves  in  generous  profusion  to  the  homes  of  the 
people,  where  they  live  in  the  depths  of  the  continents.  They  are  dif- 
fused to  them  as  the  renovating  rain  of  summer  distils  its  drops  to  every 
forest  tree,  to  every  blade  of  grain,  and  to  each  individual  flower.  The 
consuming  voracity  of  government :  administered  only  in  the  interests 
of  trade  and  the  engulfing  rapacity  of  maritime  cities :  is  uprooted. 
Equality  and  equity  in  the  administration  of  power  are  brought  within 
the  reach  and  practice  of  RURAL  populations. 

Whereas  the  energies  and  the  conquests  of  the  pioneer  army  of  the 
people ;  during  the  last  quarter  of  a  century ;  have  caused  the  most 
significant  and  profound  perturbations  of  society  throughout  the  world — 
as  to  them  also,  the  City  of  Denver  owes  her  location  and  her  future 
— it  is  necessary  to  illustrate  the  causes  of  this  extraordinary  freshness 
and  activity. 

On  July  -Ith,  18-19,  speaking  by  their  invitation  to  the  California  emi- 
grants about  to  depart  from  the  Missouri  River,  I  used  this  language : — 

"Up  to  the  year  18-40,  the  progress  whereby  twenty-six  States  and 
four  Territories  have  been  established  and  peopled,  has  amounted  to  a 
solid  strip,  rescued  from  the  wilderness,  24  miles  in  depth,  added  annually 
along  the  western  face  of  the  Union,  from  Canada  to  the  (>u!f  of  Mexico. 

"  This  occupation  of  wild  territory,  accumulating  outward  like  the  annual 
rings  of  our  forest  trees,  proceeds  with  all  the  solemnity  of  a  providential 


v:m 


^y^ 


112 


THE  XDRTH  AMERfCAX  MlSSfOX. 


ordiiiMiico.  It  is  at  tliis  inomeiit  sweeping  onward  to  tlio  Pacific  with 
accelerated  activity  and  force,  like  a  dchijie  of  men,  risinj^  unalmtcdly, 
and  daily  pushed  onward  liy  the  hand  of  (lod. 

"  Fronting  tlie  Union,  on  every  side,  is  a  vast  arnii/  of  ji!(mrvrs.  This 
active  host,  innnliering  50(1,0(10  at  least,  has  the  movements  mid  ohcys 
the  discipline  of  a  jierfectly  organized  military  force.  It  is  momentarily 
recruited  hy  single  individuals,  liy  families:  and  in  some  instances  hy 
whole  communities:  from  every  village,  county,  city,  and  State  oi'  the 
Union,  and  ])y  immigrants  from  other  nations. 

"  Eacli  ))iitn  in  the  moving  throng  is  in  force  a  platoon.  lie  makes  a 
farm  on  the  outer  edge  of  the  settlements,  whicli  lie  oceui)ies  for  a  year. 
He  then  sells  to  the  leading  files  jiressing  uj>  to  liim  from  heiiind.  Ho 
again  advances  24  miles,  renews  his  farm,  is  again  overtaken  iind  again 
sells.  As  hulivUlnah  fall  out  from  the  front  ranks,  or  fix  themst^lvcs 
permanently,  others  ru.sh  from  hehind,  pass  to  the  front,  and  assail  the 
wilderness  in  their  turn. 

"  Pncloim  to  the  recently  concluded  war  with  jMexico,  this  energetic 
throng  was  cngaf:,od  at  one  point  in  occupying  the  Peninsula  of  Florida 
and  lands  vacated  hy  emigrant  Indian  tribes.  At  another  point  in  reach- 
ing the  cojiper  region  of  Lake  Superior:  in  ab.sorhing  Iowa  and  Wis- 
consin. From  this  very  spot  had  gone  forth  a  forlorn  hope  to  o((U])y 
Oregon  and  California.  Texas  was  tlius  amiexed — the  Indian  cmnitry 
presseil  upon  its  flank.'^ — spy  companies  reconnoitred  New  and  Old  Mexico. 

"  Even  then  :  obeying  the  my.sterious  and  inscrutable  impulse  which 
drives  our  nation  to  its  goal :  a  body  of  the  liardiest  race  that  ever  faced 
varied  and  unnumbered  dangers  and  privations,  embarked  upon  the  trail 
to  the  Pacific  coast.  They  forced  their  way  to  the  end :  encountering 
and  defying  difficulties  unjiaralleled  ;  with  a  courage  and  success  the  like 
to  which  the  world  has  not  heretofore  seen. 

"  Thus,  then,  overland  sweeps  this  tidal  wave  of  population,  a))Sorbing 
in  its  thundering  march  tlie  glebe,  the  savages,  and  the  wild  bea.sts  of 
the  wilderness :  scaling  the  mountains,  and  debouching  down  upon  the 
seaboard.  Upon  the  liigh  Atlantic  sea-coa,st.  the  pioneer  force  has  thrown 
itself  into  ships,  and  found  in  the  ocean  fisheries  food  for  its  creative 
genius.  The  whaling  fleet  is  the  marine  force  of  the  pioneer  army. 
These  two  forces,  by  land  and  by  sea,  have  both  worked  steadily  onward 
to  the  North  Pacific. 

"  They  now  reunite  in  the  harbors  of  California  and  Oregon,  about  to 
bring  into  existence  upon  the  Pacific  a  commercial  grandeur  identical  with 
that  which  has  followed  and  gathered  to  them  upon  ihe  Atlantic. 


THE  NORTH  AMERICAN  MISSION. 


113 


"  Hence  have  already  come  these  new  States  :  this  other  seaboard  :  and 
the  renewed  vivacity  of  progress  with  which  the  general  heart  now  pal- 
pitates ! 

"  Will  this  cease  or  slacken  ?  Has  the  pouring  forth  of  the  stream 
from  Europe  ever  ceased  since  the  day  of  Columbus?  Has  the  grass 
obliterated  the  trails  down  the  Alleghanies,  or  across  the  Mississippi  ? 
RiitluT  let  him  who  doubts  scat  himself  upon  the  bank  of  the  supreme 
3Ii.ss()uri  River,  and  await  the  running  dry  of  his  yellow  waters !  For 
sooner  shall  he  see  this,  than  a  cessation  in  the  crowd  now  flowing  loose  to 
the  Western  seaboard ! 

'■  Gold  is  dug — lumber  is  manufiictiired — p.istoral  and  arable  agriculture 
irrow  apace — a  marine  flashes  into  existence — commerce  resounds — the  fish- 
eries are  prosecuted — vessels  arc  built — steam  pants  through  all  the  waters. 
Each  interest  stimulating  all  the  rest,  and  perpetually  creating  novelties, 
a  career  is  commenced,  to  which,  as  it  glances  across  the  Pacific,  tlu' 
human  eye  assigns  no  term  !"     .     .     . 

It  is  to  the  infallible  judgment  and  the  intrepid  valor  of  the  pioneers 
that  the  American  people  owe  the  selection  of  Colorado  and  the  auspicious 
cosmopolitan  site  of  Denver.  The  one  crowns  and  embraces  the  supreme 
altitude  of  the  continent,  and  majestically  arches  the  Cordillera  :  the  other 
rests  in  the  focus  of  the  continental  scheme  of  activity  and  fresh  forces. 

By  the  exalted  energy  and  devotion  of  (he  pioneer  army,  the  imperiljed 
Union  has  been  saved  from  ob.sf'urc  spcculatiims  and  blind  theories. 

We  had  beheld  a  period  of  repression  ;  during  which  our  people  had 
been  driven  by  malignant  legi.slation  in  a  maritime  shell  around  the  conti- 
nent :  its  vast  centre  had  been  retained  as  a  desert  disc. 

The  patriotism  and  energies  of  the  people,  pent  up  and  exasperated  by 
malignant  politics,  had  become  deformed  and  distorted  by  civil  strife  :  our 
.soil  incarnadined  with  fraternal  blood. 

With  the  pioneer  army  rests  the  glory  which  has  vindicated  the  mis- 
sion of  America :  which  preserves,  enlarges,  and  perpetuates  the  con- 
tinental union  of  the  States;  elsewhere  rocked  to  its  foundations,  and 
enervated  by  nepotism  to  the  foolish  fashions  of  Europe. 

While  European  sentiment  and  its  dismal  political  bigotry  has  every- 
where fomented  civil  war  and  slaughter ;  invaded  Mexico ;  bombarded  the 
West  Indies  and  South  America ;  filled  Canada  with  incendiaries,  and 
the  ocean  with  pirates :  ancient,  bountiful,  wise,  prolific,  and  luxuriant 
Asia,  has  cultivated  and  pressed  upon  us  peace,  friend.ship,  sympathy,  and 
the  affiliation  of  her  redundant  populations  and  productions. 

Advancing  to  meet  and  embrace  this  fresh  and  splendid  arena :  march- 
ing with  the  double  puipose  to  a.ssiniilate  with   the  Asiatic  system  and 

8 


m. 


114 


77/ A'   NO  It  Til  AMKHICAX  MI  SSI  OX. 


activities,  aiid  to  cinani-ipato  ii.<c'If  fnim  the  iiniioverisliiii}:  and  sterile 
iiKiiKilKily  of  the  Atlantic,  iXxc  pionar  ttrni//  selects  Dkxvkii. 

lleve  the  frcdif^rapliy  and  draiiia<j;e  of  the  Atlantic  conies  to  an  cud  ; 
that  of  the  I'acitic  is  reached.  Infidlible  instinct  adheres  to  the  tuotlifr- 
mat  axiit. 

Here  is  the  propitious  point  to  receive  the  coluuin  from  Asia,  de- 
houchin^  from  the  ocean  and  the  mountains  to  radiate  and  expand  itscli' 
tdsltcdn/  over  the  unobstructed  area  of  the  Mississippi  basin  !  We  con- 
sent to  face  about!  The  rear  becomes  the  front!  Asia  in  front;  J-Aii-iqie 
in  the  rear ! 

Dknvkr  is  ST')  miles  from  Sacramento:  1401  from  ^fcxieo  City: 
11(»()  from  St.  Louis:  and  2li(l(»  fnmi  New  York. 

It  is,  therefore,  by  proximity  identified  with  the  Pacljic  Oaan  and 
with  Mr.rki). 

It  is  the  salient  point  to  which  Asia  and  Polynesia  will  coini',  seckiii;; 
a  central  base;  from  which  to  distribute  themsi'lves  (jver  the  cosfmi  area 
oi"  America  and  to  Kurope.  Thir  selection  thus  fir.-Jt  made  by  the  in.«ipirc(l 
and  infallible  judjiuient  of  the  piiiiHrm  <>/  t/ic  wi'U/rriiiHs  will  forever  re- 
main unanimously  acceptable  to  the  American  iteoj)le. 

The  iti.sfiiivf,  the  whole  end)odied  I'orce  and  pr<'.  .»ur  of  intere.st,  judg- 
ment, j)ower,  and  j)atriotism  of  the  jieople  of  the  Pacific,  v.ill  construct 
the  ('ciitrii/  Railroad  of  North  America,  from  San  Francisco  to  Denver  ! 

Why  this  onclusion  dictates  itself  as  eminently  probable,  is  illustrated 
by  innumeraide  shininj;;  and  concurrent  facts  of  nature  and  experiences  of 
progress. 

Dk.nvkk  is  in  a  focal  point  of  impregnable  power  in  the  topof^raphical 
configuration  of  the  continent.  It  is  a  /wtil  point  for  the  great  raiUnnt 
riveis.  six  in  nundjcr,  whose  channels  form  a  multitude  of  uid)r;>ken  gratles 
descending  to  the  Af/mifu:  It  is  e(|ually  so  for  tho.xe  streams  which, 
scalping  the  escarpments  of  the  Cordillera,  prolong  these  gradients  and 
graft  tluni.  through  and  through,  on  the  counterpart /<><'<i/ .system  of  the 
rivers  of  the  Pacific. 

'I'lie  symmi'trical  propincjuity  and  ////i°r-radiation  of  the  plains  of  the 
Arkaii.sis  and  Platte  liivers — enveloping  and  fusing  into  the  jdain  of  the 
Kansas — carry  the  Great  J'/ains,  like  an  undidating  (K'can,  sheer  up  to 
the  primeval  (ord Hiiro.      This  is  /urf  Kiicin/iiirnissxl  hi/  oiiffiiws. 

The  (!itK.\T  Pl,.\iNs  forma  desceiuling  slope  to  the  longitudinal  trough 
of  the  Missi.s,sippi  ]{iver,  basking  themselves  in  the  ea.stern  sun.  liy  their 
intense  fertility  and  immense  area,  they  are  about  to  give  to  our  people 
supremacy  in  the  world. 

The  CJhkat  Plains  extend  from  tlie  Mexican  tiulf  to  the  Arctic  Sea. 


,  i 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAS  MISSIOS. 


115 


o  tliu  Arctic  Sea. 


They  iiro  of  a  iinifi)rm  drift  formation,  alluvial  and  diluvial ;  tlicy  have  a 
width,  from  west  to  cast,  of  1200  inilcH;  a  h)nj;itudinal  longtli  of  I),')!)!). 

The  destruction  of  the  mountains  forms  their  soils,  in  whieh  every 
active  element  of  fertility  and  jtroduction  is  minjrled.  This  hup-  area 
owes  its  eoiistruction  and  its  smoothness  to  the  vast  net-work  of  rivers 
whiih  meamlerdown  its  slope;  hut  still  more  especially  to  the  atmonj^thcrlc 
currents  flowin}^  perpetually  from  the  last. 

In  this  work  Xitture  employs  the  industry  of  multitudinous  myriads 
of  minute  aniuials.  The  zo>>j)/iijtcs  rrect  conil  infiiiKls  from  tlir  afn/sK  of 
the  (icnin.  Here  the  ants,  the  marmots,  tlie  badgers,  the  loxes,  the 
wolves,  everywhere  erect  their  multitudinous  nests  from  the  powder  and 
minute  jiravel  of  the  sul)s<iil. 

Dried  hy  the  ?un  and  fanned  by  the  urst  iriinf,  from  each  separate 
hillock  rises,  to  thf  heij^ht  of  thirty  feet,  a  whirlpool  of  soil.  This  travels, 
from  iirKt  to  >■>'„',  a  few  liundred  feet,  hursts  and  sows  itself  broadcast. 
I'fn'u(/irii//>/  come  sand-storms  of  force  and  violence,  which,  to  a  less  dis- 
tance and  similarly,  transport  the  fine  frravel  and  small  boulders. 

Tins  s>/sfi'))i  of  niitiir-il/onTx,  acting  through  countless  ages,  has  formed 
hy  the  afmospherlc  currents  this  prodigious  sloping  glacis.  As  large  in  ex- 
panse as  is  the  Atlantic  Sea,  th(i  winds  sweep  over  and  mould  its  surface 
as  (•'  mplctely  us  they  ruffle  the  water  surface  and  drive  tlie  waves  of 
the  ocean. 

This  poroim  drift  material  absor})s  promptly  and  hides  the  water  coming 
from  the  cloutls.  These  watei-s  permeate  down  and  underflow  upon  the 
bed-rock  foundation,  which  has  the  same  })erpetual  .slope  and  is  jiarallel 
witli  the  top  surface.  Elevated  for  irrigation  by  artesian  wells,  n/hr  use 
it  again  sinks  to  its  home  beneath,  and  is  protected  from  evaporation. 

Of  the  fattest  fertility ;  drained  beneath  ;  everywhere  supplied  with 
artesian  waters,  there  is  no  interrujjtion  to  this  i)i'opitious  structure  and 
uniform  adajitability  to  arable  culture.  Every  acre  of  this  ocean  prairie 
thus  ofl'crs  itself  for  the  productiou  of  the  cereals. 

In  their  inuUsturhed  nature  these  plaii.s  are  jtastoral :  they  liave,  within 
the  knowledge  of  our  people — within  my  own  knowledge — sustained 
lUO,()0(t,000  of  aboriginal  grazing  stock,  feeding  them,selves  upon  the 
perennial  grasses,  asjish  In  the  sea. 

Animal  life  is  as  multitudinous,  and  as  various  in  kinds,  as  is  the  coun- 
terpart marine  population  of  the  ocean  !  Mineral  fuel,  and  material  for 
buihling  and  fencing,  are  abundant  and  universally  distributed.  The 
atniosjthere  is  uniformly  moderate  in  tem])erature,  favorable  to  health,  to 
longevity,  to  intellectual  and  jdiysical  develoj)ment,  and  stimulative  of  an 
exalted  tone  of  .sott'../ civilization  and  refinement. 


m 


«  ,  '.  'ft 


116 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAS  MISSIOS. 


Such  is  the  fi^ndeur  which  di:  plays  itself  around  us  to  the  north, 
to  the  'mst.  end  co  the  south.  Nature  gioups  her  favors  in  endless 
var'etipo,  jp  the  most  auspicious  forms,  and  in  tlic  palmiest  dimensions. 

Towering  above  us  on  the  west  are  the  cloi:.d-compellin}»  sunnnits  of 
the  Eastern  Cordillera.  We  have  seen  that  the  systt^m  of  the  North 
American  Andes  hero  reaches  its  extreme  departure  from  the  oceans  ;  its 
most  salient  anglo  of  expansion ;  culminating  also  in  supreme  bulk  and 
altitude. 

Enveloped  vritl.in  then  arc  the  Pares :  adjacent  to  and  beyond  these, 
are  the  immense  mountain  basins  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  ;  the  Colorado ; 
Salt  Lake  ;  and  Columbia :  al'  upon  the  expanse  of  the  Plateau. 

Ii.  and  around  the  Parcs  is  preparing  itself  the  mining  laboratory  of 
the  world.  The  rare  economy  in  structure,  climate,  inter-occanic  con- 
venience, prolific  food,  miscellaneous  materials  and  metals,  constitute 
and  locate  here  the  paragon  of  all  geographical  positions. 


1 


us  to  the  north, 
avors  in  oiidloss 
ost  dinicnsioiiH. 
llin<?  summits  of 
ni  of  the  North 
u  the  oceans  ;  its 
ipremo  bulk  and 

id  beyond  these, 
i  the  Colorado; 
Plateau. 
ing  laboratory  of 
nter-oceanic  con- 
nctals,  constitute 


CHAPTER  XIL 

THE   NOPTII   AMERICAN   MISSION — CONTINUED. 

The  discoverie,s  of  exact  scicucn  teach  us  conclusively  what  is  desirable 
to  be  known. 

Everybody  is  familiar  with  the  manufacture  of  shot.  This  is  aecom- 
piished  by  pourinjj;  liquid  lead  at  a  hijrh  elevation  throujrh  perforated 
i?i()ulds.  Each  pellet  of  lead  de.seending  throiii^h  the  air  is  formed  into  a 
sphere,  as  it  cools,  by  the  invisible  force  of  jrravity. 

The  f,'lobc  of  the  earth  hius  bad  a  similar  orifjin  ;  once  a  liquid  mas.s  ; 
now  a  solid  frravitatinj;  sphere  of'  8000  miles  in  diameter,  such  as  we  in- 
habit it.  Geolo<ry  exj)lains  how  the  material  mass  of  this  {rreat  sphere 
has  arrangeil  it.self  into  layers  or  .shells,  enveloping  one  another  like  the 
successive  coalings  of  an  onion,  or  rather  as  the  pulp  of  an  orange  with 
many  succcHsive  rinds. 

.S/H'(//?V  y/Y/iv'/y  accounts  for  the  relative  positions  of  these  layers  one 
upon  the  other :  it  explains  to  us  where  and  how  to  penetrate  to  their 
nietalliferous  contents.  It  is  in  the  primeval  roek^  exchmtrJy  that  the 
jrccious  metals  and  gems  are  found.  The  bas^e  metals  are  found  in  the 
ai/cinroiiH  rocks. 

Sprcifir  (jrdflty  guides  us  to  discover  the  rocks  in  which  the  metals  are 
found  and  when  they  arc  totidly  absent.  If  into  n  hollow  ]»illar  of  gla.ss  there 
lie  [loured  a  cfuart  of  quicksilver,  one  of  water,  one  of  oil,  and  one  of 
alcolcl,  these  liquids  will  rest  one  upon  the  other  in  this  order. 

It  a  j)iece  of  gold,  of  iron,  of  wood,  and  a  feather,  be  thrown  in.  they 
will  sink — the  gold  to  the  bottom,  the  iron  to  the  (juicksilver,  the  wood 
to  the  water,  the  feather  to  the  oil.  [f  this  whole  ma.ss  be  congealed  to 
ice.  this  arrangement  will  remain  solid  and  permanent.  The  gold  must 
be  sought  f,  millinentiiry  to  the  <|uicksilver ;  the  iron  above  it,  but  smli- 
infiitiin/  to  the  water ;  the  wood  resting  upiin  the  water,  but  sedimentary 
to  the  oil. 

In  the  stnpendotis  proportions  and  exact  order  of  nature,  a  similar 
arrangi'ment  holds  in  the  rocks  which  envelop  the  globe  of  the  earth  in 
a  jrust,  as  the  contents  of  im  egg  are  held  within  its  shell.  This  crust  or 
shell  IS  known  to  be  125  miles  in  thickness. 

117 


^H 


I'll'! 


118 


THE   sou"  11  AMEinCAN  MISS  10 S. 


Ill 


Vi     -il 


These  roflkH,  onco  nil  8oft  or  li((ui(l.  are  imw  all  iieriiian'.;nfly  KoUd,  in 
the  order  of  their  relative  speeifie  j^ravitieM. 

15ut,  as  the  liottoiii  eonteiits  of  a  meadow-field  are  rijiped  up  hy  the 
(Irivinj^  force  of*  a  siihsoil  jilow,  so  the  eoinpreitsed  fires  and  chaotic 
forces  of  the  interior  glohe,  tearinjj  throujih  its  crust,  have  thrown  tiji  the 
ti'ltiiiir  hiiiylliitUiiiil  fiiriiiw  which  is  now  the  eluvuted  CoBDlLLKKA  from 
Cajte  Horn  to  Behrinj^'s  Htrait. 

The  lowest  ro-ks,  therefore,  split  asunder  and  driven  up  vertirnlly, 
now  form  the  summit  of  the  ('iinli//n<i.  The  reiided  facinjrs  of  tiu' 
bottom  jilates  hecouu;  tht;  surmountiufi  top  of  the  Sierra.  The  warjied 
sides,  lient  ujiwards,  form  the  sloi)iiij;  flanks  of  the  Sierra.  I'iled  against 
these,  the  superincumbent  strata  are  lapped. 

These  appear  as  successive  benches  upon  the  flanks  of  the  Cordi/lertt, 
forming  a  rugged  staircase,  whose  steps  are  each  of  coiifiiu iif<t/  magnitude 
and  dimensions.  Such  is  tlie  aboriginal  j)rofile  of  the  pnwcval  Chr- 
tiilUro,  now  rasped  away  and  ragged  by  corrosion  and  the  play  of  the 
elements  during  countless  millions  of  seasons. 

IJut  science,  with  efpial  truth  and  simplicity,  ascending  upwards  from 
the  earth's  surface,  explains  the  ATMosi'liERE!,  which  embrace  the  globe 
outsiilc,  and  handles  them  without  obscurity. 

The  globe  is  covered  externallji  with  a  liquid  shell  of  water,  through 
which  the  contents  protrude :  this  is  the  ocean,  ntjveoiis  atniospherc,  being 
dense  and  visible  to  the  eye. 

FcteninJ  to  this,  and  resting  upon  it,  is  the  sliell  of  the  mrrinl  afntos- 
pJinc.  This  atnu)sphorc  is  invisible  to  the  eye ;  but  the  vapors  exhaled 
from  the  land  and  the  ocean  ascend  into  it ;  are  condensed  into  mists  and 
rain-?louds,  which  float  through  it  in  visible  mas.ses. 

At  an  altitude  of  4(100  feet,  this  dcrlal  uhiioupJirre  terminates  as 
abrujttly  and  completely  as  has  the  atpiemm  ntmosphcn'  at  our  feet. 
Above  its  limit,  or  upper  surface,  the  n«/H-clouds  do  noc  ascend,  but  have 
their  termination  and  level  similarly  to  the  aqueous  afmosphrre  beneath. 

/•J.rfrriKiI  to  ihc  ncn'dl  (If DiospJiere  is  the  ETHKHKAh  afniospliere,  beyond 
wliieh  animal  life,  vegetation,  and  clouds  cease  to  exi.st. 

Physical  geography  defines  those  portions  of  the  earth's  surface  within 
the  (ifirliij  atmosphere  to  po.ssess  a  MARITIME  climate;  those  within  the 
cfhirixif  atmoi^phrre  to  possess  a  CONTINENTAL  climate.  The  Plateaux 
of  North  America,  of  Central  Asia,  and  of  South  America  enjoy  a  contt- 
nental  climate ;  the  rest  of  the  earth's  surface  lies  within  the  maritime 
climate. 

How  perfectly  the  area  of  Colorado  possesses  a  continmtal  climate 
and  lies  within  the  ithrcal  atmosi)hcre,  manifests  itself  to  every  observ- 


THE  SOUTH  AM  Kit  WAS  MfSStOS. 


119 


niiin-ntly  mViH,  in 

rippod  up  l)y  the 
fires  iiml  chaotic 
ve Ihiown  up  the 
(tKIilLLKHA  from 

■II   'ij>   vcrliciilly, 

I    faciii^r.s  (if  th^' 

■ra.      Tile  wariied 


•a. 


I'ilod 


lieu  a''aiiist 


f  tho  (WdUlcra, 

noital  uiaguitudu 

e  jirinicviil  Cor- 

thi!  phiy  of  the 

iifr  upwards  from 
luliraco  tlio  globe 

f  water,  tliroufrh 
tmosjiherc,  being 

he  amnl  atmoa- 
e  vapors  exJialed 
d  into  mists  and 

?   terminates   as 
'•«■   at   our   foot, 
iseend,  but  liave 
phrre  beneath. 
oitjihere,  beyond 

i  surface  witliin 
hose  witliin  the 
'he  Pl^ATKAUX 

II  enjoy  a  contt- 
1  the  maritime 

intntdl  climate 
•  every  observ- 


iiij,'  eyp.  Tiie  illustrations  and  proofs  of  this  are  i-oiuiuMve  in  t'V«'ry 
dcimrtuient  and  niinuti;  detail  of  nature — uiwin  the  surface  nf  thi-  I'lains; 
in  the  eauo|iy  ov(;rhead ;  in  the  mountains;  in  animal  life;  and  in  the 
ve^rctatinn. 

To  the  traveller  who  ascends  from  <<i.*i  to  wvjt/,  at  the  |>;us>»a'.rt' of  the 
1(12(1  nieridiaii,  tlut  metamorphosis  over  the  whole  landM-:i|M-  is  ciiniplele. 
Tlie  surface  of  tlit;  earth  is  uniforndy  dry,  compact,  ami  fm-  fn.in  mud; 
the  forest  has  dis:ip])eared  even  from  the  rivers  ;  where  irri-.riti<>n.  "tlier 
than  that  supplicMl  from  the  clouds,  is  absent,  wormwtMMl.  the  eacta".  and 
dclicale  perennial  gras.ses  only  grow ;  the  air  is  intensely  pungent,  tonic 
to  the  tast«!,  dry,  and  translucent ;  the  atmos])herie  pn-s-Mire  dimini>lies, 
and  animal  digesti(jn  is  modified. 

Across  the  canoj)y,  which  is  inten.><ely  bine  in  color  and  brilliancy,  nish 


itly,  like  Ixtrsed 


>f  th 


<ili  riouils.  bi 


>he<l  with 


couriers 

and  radiating  silver  tire.  This  gorgeous  /;(/yr'y/-/f  display  of  eloiid*  i-  multi- 
tudinous and  inces.sant  round  the  year:  they  contain  neitluT  rain  nor 
electricity ;  and  descend  over  us  with  my.sterious  and  incidculabic  v«l<K*ity  in 
the  iicriiil  <itm<isplii'rr. 

TIk;  ottion^phtric  riirrriifs  pour  incessantly  from  tlie  irttf — the  moun- 
tains gather  but  little  snow — they  are  naked  and  dr}' at  mid.'-umnier.  The 
rivers  are  without  affluents,  an<l  e.\j>end  their  waters  by  eva]Mtnition.  The 
incessant  pjissago  of  clouds  does  not  obscure  the  sun,  but  ri'fracts  and 
intensifies  his  insj»iring  light. 

There  are  neither  moisture,  mia.smas,  nor  perceptible  exhalations  of  any 
kind.  DiiM  is  not  frequent.  Serenity,  moderation,  and  purity  reiim  within 
th(!  complete  circuit  of  the  horizon.  The  mind  of  man  is  .SMithetl.  tem- 
pered, and  modified  by  this  immense  benignity  throughout  nature,  whii-h 
infuses  itself,  and  a.ssimilatos  everything  but  human  avarice  and  nij'.ifity. 

The  su[H!rb  richness  of  color  and  of  dis.^olving  ."hadi-s  are  infinitely 
variegated  and  delicate.  The  visimi,  aided  by  the  continually  inerea-xiiig 
elevation,  is  far  peiu'trating  and  distinct  in  its  recognitions.  Within  and 
among  the  mountains  and  upon  the  Platf  \v.  the  niinh-ss  character. 
serenity,  and  splendor  of  the  atmosphere  are  the  sjime.  All  tht-se  g«'n«T- 
ous  attributes  gather  in  force,  and  are  enhan<ed  l)y  the  .^uiHTlativc  U-siuty 
and  sublimity  of  their  marvellous  stnicture.  magnitude,  and  iiunibe- 

'Y\n'.  preci.st'  flirts  which  fix  the  supreme  climatic  excellent  «»f  Cotonido 
are  these :  the  latitudt! — the  elevation  above  the  sea — the  remote  seclu- 
sion from  the  sea.  These  all  attain  here  their  ninximiim^  and  unite  har- 
moniou.sly.  This  results  from  the  astimishing  and  au.spiciuun  c«inconl 
between  the  grand  laws  of  nature ;  the  comprehensive  scale  of  the  anhi- 
tecture ;  and  the  favorable  /oml  configuration. 


120 


riiK  s-(ntrii  amkuic.w  mission. 


I 


Tlic  Nmlh  Aiiiiiivini  A iii/m c\ cry vihcrv.  prove  tliciiixclvcs  to  liavc  liccu 
driven  ii]i  tliroii;;Ii  the  lied  of  it  iiriiiu'val  occiiii,  of  wliicli  tint  Mis.iis.sij,j,i 
htisiii  is  llic  still  uiialti'riil  liowl.  Tlif  Hodiiiicntiiry  strata,  liki'  u  nest  of 
Itowl.s  iiiiiiij.'  tlu'  ahyss,  are  Imikoii  off  and  tilted  uj)  along  tlie  indented 
baHu  of  the  iiioiintains. 

A  traveller  wlio  apjiroaelies  t]w  Aflmific  sntf/minl,  eouunj;  from  tlic 
iiiiif,  sees  that  ocean  penetratinj;  every  hay,  gulf,  luirhor,  and  indentation 
of  the  land,  jireservinj^  an  unalterahie  li'vel.  In  the  same  way,  wrajtiied 
against  the  Cordillera,  and  meantlering  its  infinitely  indented  roots  with 
tiie  same  undeviating  fidelity,  are  Keen  the  rended  edges  of  the  cii/ainiiiis 
Htrata. 

Kaeh  stratnm  iiaving  its  characteristic  color,  thin  friinje  of  n  (lipitrUd 
ixiini  is  traceil  without  intermission  lengthwise  through  the  continent. 
It  is  easily  discernihle,  as  though  a  continuous  rainbow  were  ]ilaited  in  to 
mark  the  line  of  junction,  where  the  sc'dimentary  and  primeval  rocks  join 
together  and  depart  in  opposite  directions,  each  to  maintain  exclusive 
dominion. 

Thus,  ascending  along  the  arc  of  the  4(lth  degree  of  latitude,  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty  miles  from  the  I'/<iiiix,  directly  uj»  to  the  summit  of  the 
Cord  if /nil,  I'very  elementary  rock  of  the  geological  scale  is  crossed, 
arranged  in  order  and  jilaced  in  jxisition.  At  the  lower  end  appears 
liiliiniil  </ii/f,  the  top  settlings  of  the  sea  ;  at  the  other  end  t]\c priinvvul 
2>"r/>/ii/ii/,  upheaved  from  the  lowest  crust. 

JIi  II ,  in  economical  juxtajiositio  and  luxuriant  profligacy,  are  found 
every  metal,  every  rock,  every  clay,  every  salt,  every  alkali,  I'uel,  arbores- 
ceiiee,  vegetation  of  gra.s.ses  and  flora — every  and  each  element  of  the 
g(Milogical  .scale  to  which  human  industry  ajjplies  its  .skill,  or  manufactures 
and  conv(!rts  to  social  use. 

I  am  awed  by  the.se  marvellous  facts  <d"  nature,  which  cannot  esciipe 
recognition.  I  liave  not  discovered  that  they  exist,  or  cjin  so  exist,  else- 
where round  tlu!  earth's  circumlerenci!,  iu  ..nysuch  complete  coudjination, 
of  such  jiurity  and  magnitude,  asliere — iiifrniiidi'nfr — upctn  the  condensed 
track  of  way-travel  of  the  populous  and  active  zodiac  of  mai'cind. 

A  st4irtling  and  profound  novelty  here  displays  it.self  and  fixes  our 
attention. 

All  along  the  liinijltiiilliinl  J'kifriin,  altitude  and  the  protection  of  tlie 
Cordilleras  temjter  the  hrnl  towards  the  e(|uatorial  zone  ;  the  .same  causes 
temper  the  ciJil  towards  the  polar  zone.  These  extremes  of  teu)j)erature 
for  the  day  and  for  the  night  are  great;  for  the  seasons  round  the  year 
scarc(!ly  jierceptible.      In  one  word,  the  temperature  is  uiuforndy  nriinl. 

By  this,  the  genial  and  propitious  climate  of  the  imtheimal  zik/iuc  is 


THK  SOUTH   AMKUIt'AS   MISS/OX. 


121 


proloii^'cil  outward  upon  its  north  flank,  and  itn  soutli  flank  :  it  oxtomU 
up  and  down  the  arou  of  the  fiuhnii,  and  is  f'olt  to  hoth  its  extremities. 

Tlius  is  iHustrated  the  severe  tniifnisf  ani(iii<;  the  eontiiients,  North 
Anitiica  heinj;  in  its  eontij^uration  iniicnrf — all  the  otlu-rs  coiiiix.  Klse- 
where,  hostile  strueture,  perpetuating  ineorrigihlu  distraetion,  segregates 
soiiety  and  dwarfs  its  energies. 

In  Xuit/i  Aniiricii.  a.  homogeneous  unity  of  language,  population,  and 
manners  is  unavoidable.  This  is  henignantly  amplified  hy  an  undulating 
variety  of  contour,  pervading  eijually  tlu!  mountain  sy.stem  and  the  jilain.s. 
This  hap]iy  eomhination  provokes  tlu;  highest  development  and  diseiplinu 
of  energy,  and  tlie  most  e.xalted  civilization. 

As  for  the  nite  upon  which  the  CiTV  <•!•'  Dk.nver  is  founded,  it  is  pre- 
eminently coHmo/xjlitan.  It  pre-oecupies  the  auspicious  focus  into  whidi 
Nature  groups  all  her  colossul  elements.  We  are  at  the  ha.se  of  the  Kiii>t- 
irii  Cori/i/lira,  who.se  summit,  nowhere  jjenetrated  hy  navigation  for  ten 
thousand  miles,  forms  the  phi^mcal  mvriilian  which  parts  and  unites  the 
two  hemispheres  of  the  ghthe. 

Here  the  vast  arena  of  the  Pacific  basin  fits  it.self  to  the  basin  of  the 
Atlantic,  edge  to  edge.  The  goal  is  reached  where  the  zodiac  of  nations 
closes  its  circle.    The  gap  between  the  hemispheres  is  bridged  over  forever. 

We  are  upon  the  isot/niiiKil  iixis,  which  is  the  trunk  line  (the  t/id/iifif) 
of  intense  and  intelligent  energy ;  where  eiviliziition  has  its  largest  field, 
its  highest  development,  its  inspired  form. 

There  is  an  intoxicating  grandeur  in  the  panorama  which  unveils  it.self 
to  the  .sjjectator  looking  out  from  the  crest  of  the  neighboring  Cordillera. 
In  front,  in  rear,  and  on  either  flank.  Nature  ascends  to  her  highest 
standard  of  excellence. 

Behold  to  the  right  the  Mississippi  Hasin :  to  the  lefV  the  Plateau  of 
the  Table  Lands :  beneath,  the  family  of  I'arcs :  around,  the  radiating 
backs  of  the  primeval  mountains:  the  primary  rivers  starting  to  the  seas: 
a  uniform  altitude  of  8()()()  feet :  a  translucent  atniosjihere,  a  thousand  miles 
'  cuioved  from  the  ocean  and  its  influences :  a  checkered  landscape,  from 
wliich  no  element  of  .sublimity  is  left  out — fertility  and  food  upon  the 
surface  ;  metals  beneath  ;  uninterrupted  facility  of  transit. 

Behold  here  the  pdnomiiKt  which  crowns  the  middle  region  of  our 
Union ;  fans  the  immortal  tire  of  patriotism ;  and  beckons  on  the  ener- 
getic host  of  our  people  ! 

Here,  through  the  heart  of  our  territory,  our  population,  our  States, 
our  citit's,  our  niini!S,  our  farms  and  haltitations,  will  travei-se  the  con- 
densed commerce  of  mankind — where  ])a.ssengers  and  cargoes  may,'*?  any 
lime  or  j>litei;  embark  upon  or  leave  the  vehicles  of  transjKjrtation. 


■*    ■! 


122 


THE  XOIlTIf  AMKIifCAX   }rfSSrOX. 


ii  ;'ii 


Down  with  the  parricidal  policy  which  will  banish  it  from  the  land — 
from  amoiif^  the  broadcast  dwclliiiirs  of  the  pcojilo — t<i  f  jrco  it  on  tci  the 
sterile  ocean  :  outside  of  society,  throu;ih  foreifjjn  nations — into  the  torrid 
heats :  alonfj;  Holitary,  circuitous  routes  :  imprisoned  for  montlis  and  dwarli-d 
in  great  ships ! 

Railways,  miltiplied  and  spanning  the  continent,  are  essential  dnnicstic 
institution.:;  !:.ore  powerful  and  more  permanent  than  law,  or  popular  (un- 
sent,  or  political  constitutions,  to  thoroughly  complete  the  grand  system 
of  fluvial  arteries  wliich  fraternize  us  into  one  people — to  bind  tlie  firo 
SKil/oanh  to  this  one  continental  vni'on,  like  ears  to  the  human  head — to 
radicate  the  7-nral  foundations  of  the  Union  so  broad  and  deej),  and 
establish  its  structures  so  solid,  that  no  possible  force  or  stratagem  can 
sliake  its  permanence — to  secure  such  scope  and  space  to  j)rogress,  that 
equality  and  prosperity  shall  never  be  impaired,  or  chafe  for  want  of  room! 

To  Denver  is  secured  a  career  into  which  all  these  favorable^  facts  of 
position  and  circumferent  area  are  now  united.  The  North  American 
people  numl)cr  Ji/ti/  7Htllion.t  in  strength.  Two  millions  annually  shift 
their  houics.  This  force  is,  j^'ir  cxci Hence,  the  pioneer  army  of  tlui  North 
American  ])eople.  This  movement  causes  an  uninteirupted  jire.ssure  of 
the  people  from  aist  to  west,  resembling  the  drift  of  the  ocean  which 
aecompani.  s  the  great  tidal  wave. 

Diurnally  is  the  surface  of  the  sea  lifted  up  in  silence  and  poured  upon 
the  coasts  of  the  continents.  Exactly  similar  to  this  is  the  movement, 
annually  gathering  force,  and  seen  to  impel  our  people  through  and 
through  from  the  easternio  the  uestern  limit  of  the  land. 

The  inscrutable  force  of  (/raiifi/,  which  with  minute  accuracy  holds  the 
planets  in  their  orbits,  or  Ci.  ises  each  drop  of  rain  to  fall,  sways  the 
instinet  of  society.  This  gravitation  pres.ses  from  all  directions  upon  the 
axis,  and  to  the  focus  of  intensity.  This  regular  in.stiiict  of  movement 
lias  been  transiently  interfered  with  by  the  artificial  passions  and  demorali- 
zation of  civil  strife.  It  rapidly  assumes  again  its  tempe'-  and  its 
regularity. 

Our  neighbors  from  California  work  up  to  us  with  miraculous  energy 
and  celerity.     They  bring  with  tlu-m  the  ojien  aven)ie  to  us  from  Asia. 

The  Mexican  colunni  reaches  us  from  the  south.  On  the  )(irtli  the 
activity  is  great,  and  in  clo.se  contact.  The.se  several  columns  s  multane- 
ously  converge  upon  us.  They  increase  evert/  moment  in  numbers,  weight, 
and  celerity  of  motion. 

We  no  longer  march  into  the  blind  wilderness,  di'penih'iit  upon  and 
chained  exehisinli/  to  Europe  in  the  rear.  We  open  up  in  IV'int  (ho 
gorgeous  arena  of  the  Asiatic  Ocean 


THE  yOUTIl  AMKIllCAX  MISSIOX. 


123 


At  ]>rt'si!iit,  tlu!  liuge  city  of  Ldinlon  iiunKtpolize.s  the  imports  from  the 
Oriinfiit  world.  These  arc  stored  tliere,  and  retiiihid  to  the  people  ro- 
siiliiiL:'  in  tlie  basin  of  the  Atlantic. 

Upon  the  labor  of  the  American  people,  so  far  us  thoy  particij)atc  in 
the  consumption  of  Orinifal  witrra,  is  harnessed  the  frightfnl  burden  to 
si'i'port  the  British  peojile  and  the  Britisli  Empire,  a  id  to  be  devoured 
by  their  voraeiims  despotism  of  trade. 

The  work  of  emancipation  is  accomplished  by  tlie  intrepid  enerj^ies 
and  (uniiuests  of  the  pioneer  army  of  North  America.  It  only  remains 
to  be  appreciated  and  accepted  by  the  people. 

We  are  about  to  supply  by  direct  export  the  food  and  precious  and  ba.se 
metals  to  8')0,()(K),000  of  neighboring  Asiatics  !  To  Japan  :  to  (Jiiina : 
to  India.  To  the  gorgeous  islands  of  Borneo :  Sumatra :  Java.  To  tlie 
Philippines:  the  Celebes.  To  the  Archipelagoes  of  the  Sooloo  Sea  and 
Polynesia !  Tiiese  are  hirffer  in  aggregate  area,  and  more  populous,  than 
Euro|K' ;  and  arc  nearer  to  tis. 

Included  witiiiri  the  eijiuitorial  zone,  but  approached  by  us  through  the 
kmp<  i-iili  zone,  they  ovei*flow  witli  mercliandises  desirable  to  our  people, 
in  multitudinous  affluence.  To  us  will  belong  the  prodigious  carrying 
trade  upon  tlie  seas  for  tlie.sc  inlinite  multitudes.  The  e((uatorial  heats 
arc  outflanked  and  avoided.  The  conflict  for  dominion  over  the  mul- 
tiplied commerce  of  the  world  is  fought,  and  the  conclusive  victory  is 
won  tiir  our  country. 

A  large  majority  of  tlie  American  [leople  now  reside  within  the  Mi.s- 
si.s.si|ipi  Biusin,  and  in  this  Asiatic  front  of  our  continent,  which  is  born 
from  us. 

Na.scent  powers,  liereulcan  from  the  hour  of  their  birth,  unv(!il  their 
forms  and  demand  their  rights.  States  for  the  pioneers ;  self-govern- 
ment for  the  picmeers  ;  untrammelled  way  for  tlie  imperial  energies  of  the 
forces  of  the  Rocky  .Alountuins  and  the  Pacific  Sea,  may  not  long  be 
withheld  by  covetous,  arbitrary,  and  arrogant  jcalou.sy  and  injustice! 

In  the  conflict  for  freedom,  it  is  not  numbers  or  cunning  that  conquers  ; 
but  rather  daring,  di.>4tijiline,  and  judgment,  combined  and  tempered  by 
the  conden.sed  fire  of  faith  an<l  intrepid  valor. 

As  it  is  my  hope,  iti  the.se  notes,  to  contribute  what  may  be  valuable, 
I  adhere  strictly  to  severe  facts,  and  nject  ab.solutely  all  theory  and 
.speculation.  These  facts  are  as  indestructibly  established  as  is  the  alpha- 
bet, and  arc  as  worthy  of  unijuestioning  faith  and  credence. 

That  we  may  htok  into  the  giitbering  achievements  of  the  near  future, 
without  obscurity,  and  with  an  accurate  prophetic  vision,  1  may  without 
censure  submit  what  is  within  my  own  personal  experience. 


m 


\  M. 


124 


THE  NORTH  AMEItlCAN  MISSION. 


i  ■       w 


It  fell  to  my  lot,  during  the  years  from  1840  to  1845,  alone  and  lu 
extreme  youth,  to  seek  and  chalk  out,  in  the  immense  solitudes  filling 
the  space  from  3Iissouri  to  China,  the  lines  of  this  dazzling  enijiire  of 
which  we  now  hold  the  oracular  crown — to  have  stood  by  its  cradle — to 
be  the  witness  of  its  miraculous  growth. 

It  is  not  for  me,  in  this  season  of  gathering  splendor,  to  speak  tnmcju 
upon  a  subject  of  such  intense  and  engrossing  novelty  and  interest.  I  may 
properly  here  quote  the  concluding  sentences  of  a  report  which  I  was  re- 
quired to  make  on  the  2d  of  March,  1840,  to  the  Untied  Stntex  Srnatr, 
at  that  time  brimful  of  illustrious  .statesmen.  What  I  said  then  and 
there,  in  the  first  dawning  twilight  of  our  glory,  I  will  now  repeat : 

"  The  calm,  wise  man  sets  liimself  to  study  aright  and  understand  clearly 
the  deep  designs  of  Providence — to  scan  the  great  volume  of  nature — to 
fathom,  if  possible,  the  will  of  the  Creator,  and  to  receive  with  respect 
what  may  be  revealed  to  him. 

"  Two  centuries  have  rolled  over  our  race  upon  this  continent.  From 
nothing  we  have  become  20,000,000.  From  nothing  we  are  grown  to 
be  in  agriculture,  in  commerce,  in  civilization,  and  in  natural  strength. 
the  first  among  nations  existing  or  in  hLsfory.  So  much  is  our  ihntiny — 
so  far,  up  to  this  time — tninsuctcd,  accomplished,  certain,  and  not  to  be 
disputed.     From  this  threshold  we  read  the  future. 

"  The  vntransactcd  destiny  of  the  American  people  is  to  subdue  the 
continent — to  rush  over  this  vast  field  to  the  Pacific  Ocean — to  iiiiiniate 
the  many  hundred  millions  of  its  people,  and  to  cheer  them  upward — to 
set  the  principle  of  self-government  at  work — to  agitate  these  herculeaa 
ma.s.ses — to  establish  a  new  order  in  human  affairs — to  set  free  the  en- 
slaved— to  regenerate  superannuated  nation.s — to  change  darkness  into 
light — to  stir  up  the  sleep  of  a  hundred  centuries — to  teach  old  nations 
a  new  civilization — to  confirm  tlio  destiny  of  the  human  race — to  carry 
the  career  of  mankind  to  its  culminating  point^ — to  cause  stagnant  peojile 
to  be  re-born — ■.  perfect  science — to  emblazon  history  with  the  con(|uest 
of  peace — to  shed  a  new  and  resplendent  glory  upon  mankind — to  unite 
the  world  in  one  social  family — to  dissolve  the  spell  of  tyranny  and  exalt 
charity — to  absolve  the  curse  that  weighs  down  humanity,  and  to  shed 
blessings  round  the  world  ! 

"  Divine  tmk  !  immortal  mixftion  !  Let  us  trcjid  fast  and  joyfully  the 
open  trail  before  us !  Let  every  American  heart  open  wide  for  patriotism 
to  glow  undinnned,  and  confide  with  religious  faith  in  the  sublime  and 
prodigious  destiny  of  his  well-loved  country." 


REMARKS  OF  MAJ( 


1845,  alone  and  iu 
ise  solitudes  filling 
dazzling  enijijre  of 

»J  by  its  cradle— to 

or,  to  speak  tnmcJy 
lid  interest.  I  may 
•t  which  I  was  re- 
^ifrd  Sfittrf,  Sniolr, 
t  I  said  then  and 
now  repeat : 
understand  clearly 
uine  of  nature— to 
:ceive  with  respect 

continent.  From 
;  we  are  grown  to 

natural  strength. 
•h  is  our  detitlny—. 
aiu,  and  not  to  be 

is  to  subdue  the 
)cean — to  aiiiniute 
them  ujiward— to 
e  these  herculean 
»  set  five  the  en- 
ige  darkness  into 
teach  old   nations 
111  race — U)  carry 
*  stagnant  iie()j)le 
vith  the  con(|ucst 
ankind — to  unite 
yranny  and  exalt 
lity,  and  to  shed 

and  joyfully  the 
de  for  patriotism 
the  sublime  and 


APPENDIX. 


MEXICAN    WAR. 

REMARKS  OF  MAJOR  OltPIN,  AT  THE  BARBECUE  GIVEN'  THE  COLE  INFANTRY,  AT 
JEFFERSON  CITY,  THURSDAY,  AUGUST  10,  1847. 

Happy  are  those  who,  after  hopes  long  su.spended  and  hara.ssing 
anxieties  long  and  doubtingly  endured,  come  to  find  their  hopes  con.sum- 
mated  by  brilliant  successes,  their  anxieties  relieved  by  enthusiastic 
praises  and  the  shouts  of  triumph. 

Such  are  the  soldiers  who,  their  trials  ended  and  their  long  and  ex- 
hausting services  at  an  end,  are  here  assembled  to  receive  the  greetings 
of  the!-  kindred,  and  listen  to  their  flattering  praises  and  their  shouts  of 
victory  and  welcome. 

During  thirty-two  years  of  peace, — a  long  period,  which  includes  the 
birth  of  nine-tenths  of  us, — our  own  State  has  joined  the  confederacy. 
War  came  suddenly.  With  the  same  pen  which  signed  the  declaration 
of  hostilities  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States,  the  President  di- 
rected to  Missouri  the  first  requisition  for  the  War! 

It  asked  a  slender  force  of  1 500  men, — all  volunteers  but  300  dragoons 
— to  cross  the  Great  Plains  and  penetrate  Mexico  by  the  north. 

Bounding  forth  at  the  sound  of  the  war-bugle,  in  one  month  were  as- 
sembled at  Fort  Leavenworth,  beyond  the  western  verge  of  our  Union, 
the  Ist  Regiment  of  Missouri  Cavalry,  the  battalion  of  Artillery  fro  >  St. 
Louis,  the  battalion  of  Cole  Infantry,  and  the  Laclede  Rangers,  120o  in 
all,  and  forth  they  marched. 

Wars  had  occupied  mankind  for  one  hundred  centuries,  but  they  had 
been  wars  between  adjacent  nations — marches  had  been  confined  to  inhab- 
ited countries,  where  provisions  abounded  on  the  routes. 

Here  was  a  wilderness  of  u  thousand  miles  to  be  traversed,  and  the  enemy 
to  be  encountered  at  home,  in  great  strength,  and  abounding  in  resources. 
A  failure  to  transport  with  us  complete  supplies  was  certain  disaster  and 
Starvation — a  check  received  from  the  enemy  at  their  threshold  would 

125 


126 


APPEXDIX. 


I   i 


eventuate  the  same.     This  enemy  was  the  pfople  of  Mexico,  a  sister  Re- 
public. 

Years  had  hecii  i-Ahausted  in  ingenious  devices  on  our  part  to  avoid 
this  conflict.  Our  citizens  had  been  nia.ssacred  in  Texas  amidst  the  very 
orgies  of  barbarism — our  merchants  had  been  plundered  and  imprisoned 
— our  flag  insulted  in  their  metropolis — our  citizens  murdered,  malt rcated, 
and  scofftul  for  their  religion — debts  accumulating  during  thirty  yeara 
unpaid — treaties  contemptuously  violated — more  than  all,  an  attemiit  to 
imitate  fnir  republican  system,  productive  only  of  anarchy,  stood  as  a  bur- 
lesque beside  us  on  our  own  continent,  furnishing  to  the  malev(jlent  food 
for  satires  upon  popular  freedom  in  the  Xew  World. 

Forth,  then,  into  the  wilderness  plunged  the  little  army  of  Mi.<souri  to 
encounter  these  enemies  of  their  country — their  country  to  them  a/trat^s 
right. 

The  plains  were  passed,  and  the  rugged  mountains  which,  dividing 
from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  encircle  Now  Mexico,  were  reached.  Tlioir 
rapid  progress  had  outstrijiped  the  provision-trains.  Amidst  fatiguinji; 
marches,  dust,  solstitial  heats,  and  scanty  water,  subsisting  on  onc-ipiarter 
of  the  ordinary  ration,  they  rushed  onward  to  Santa  Fe. 

The  army  of  New  Mexico,  in  numbers  three  to  one  of  our  force,  occu- 
pying the  impregnable  gorge  of  Gallisteo,  which  covers  the  j-pproach  to 
Santa  Fe,  dispersed  in  dismay.  On  the  18th  of  August,  three  months 
from  the  proclamation  of  war,  made  at  Wasliington  City,  2!500  miles  dis- 
tant, the  statt!  of  New  Mexico  lay  concjuered,  and  the  American  flag 
floated  over  the  Capitol  at  Santa  Fe. 

Occupied  until  the  middle  of  September  in  securing  the  subjugation  if 
the  country,  the  1st  Regiment  descended  the  Del  Norte  to  the  lower  set- 
tlements, receiving  the  submission  of  the  towns  and  people,  and  returned 
to  Santa  Fe. 

New  Mexico  contains  100,000  inhabitants,  vast  resources,  and  by  its 
basin-like  configuration  is  easily  defensible,  and  difficult  to  be  confjuered 
cr  long  held  in  subjection. 

New  Mexico  is  surroimded  by  powerful  tribes  of  military  Indians  :  the 
Con.anelies,  towards  Texas — the  Yiitas  and  Navajos  in  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, and  on  their  slope  towards  the  Pacific. 

Issuii.g  fnmi  the  surrounding  mountains,  the.se  warlike  Indians  strike 
down  the  people,  devastate  the  banks  of  the  Del  Norte,  and  driv(>  \\w{\\ 
the  stock.  In  years  past  they  hav(;  plundered  from  ^lexicans  many  mil- 
lions of  sheep  and  cattle.  By  the  submission  of  New  Mexico  wo  had 
become  the  guardians  of  her  people  and  territory.  The  pious  duty  re- 
mained to  tame  her  savage  foes. 


The  infantry,  J 
fort  was  built  to 
made  by  the  Coi 
parted  for  the 
one  jienetrating  t 
the  Vutas  and 
letta ;  a  third  dei 
bound  eventually 
The  northern 
tated  villages,  to 
tion,  and,  reachii 
the  river  Chamas 
tjo  Yutas,  includ 
With  them  w; 
tliose  Indians, 
their  farms  and  f 
Supplies  havii 
prepared  to  pa.ss 
up  the  Navajos, 
On  the  2d  of 
by  tlie  snows  wJ 
force,  300  stronjj 
that  led  up  to  tl 
which  flows  to  t^ 
With  us  were 
visions.     In  se\ 
altitude  of  10,')( 
of  the  "  Grmt  } 
meiLsles  scourgei 
prey  to  its  rava< 
I'oUowing  foi 
with  the  sheep 
the  impractical 
men),  we  descei 
siou  tif  whicth  a 
Astounded  i 
trusted  it  couW 
horees  whl'h  h 
mission. 

Taking  with 
ened  toward  tli 


M 


MEXICAN   WAR. 


127 


loxleo,  a  sister  Re- 

our  part  tf)  avoid 
as  amidst  tlio  vorv 
L'd  and  iiii]iris()iied 
rdered,  iiialtivated, 
uriiig  thirty  yem-s 
iill,  ail  attoiii].t  to 
ly,  st(Mid  as  a  bur- 
le  nialovolont  food 

■my  of  Missouri  to 
ry  to  tlioiii  uhniys 

s  which,  dividing 

n 

e  readied.  Their 
\niidst  f-itiiiiiinj,' 
ng  on  one-(jiiarter 

four  force,  occu- 
s  tlie  i'.pjiniacli  to 
list,  three  months 
y,  2:}00  miles  dis- 
le  American  flasr 

lie  subjugation  ,)f 
to  the  iowor  set- 
pie,  and  returned 

urces,  and  by  its 
to  be  conrjuered 

iry  Indians :  the 
lie  Rocky  .Aloun- 

e  Indians  strike 
and  drive  (i.ith 
cicans  many  mil- 
Mexico  we  had 
e  pious  duty  re- 


Tho  infantry,  artillery,  and  dragoons  remained  to  garrison  Santa  Fe — a 
fort  was  built  to  command  its  approaches — a  treaty  was  asked  for  and 
made  by  the  Conianches.  The  1st  llegimont,  in  three  detaclnnciits,  de- 
parted for  the  recesses  of  the  llocky  ^lountains  late  in  September :  the 
one  j)enetratiiig  towards  the  northwest  by  Canada  and  the  Chamas  against 
tlie  Yutas  and  Navajos ;  another  southwest  by  Albuquerque  and  Sabo- 
lutta  ;  a  tliird  descended  by  the  Del  Norte,  covering  the  American  traders 
bound  eventually  to  Chihuahua. 

The  northern  column  passed  out  through  a  denuded  country  and  devas- 
tated villages,  to  which  the  fugitive  Mexicans  returned  under  its  protec- 
tion, and,  reaching  the  recesses  of  the  Rocky  ^lountains  by  the  sources  of 
the  river  Chamas,  in  one  month  delivered  to  the  authorities  in  Santa  Fe 
Go  Yutas,  including  their  chiefs  and  chief  warriors. 

With  them  was  formed  a  treaty  of  peace,  since  faithfully  observed  by 
those  Indians.  This  restored  many  thou.sand  families  of  3Iexicans  to 
their  farms  and  firesides,  and  gave  (piiet  to  the  northern  frontier. 

Supplies  liaving  been  with  great  difficulty  collected,  this  same  coluuui 
prepared  to  pass  the  eternal  barrier  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  .scare 
up  the  Navajos,  reposing  in  security  on  their  western  slope. 

On  the  2d  of  November  (in  this  climate  the  depth  of  winter,  indicated 
by  tlie  snows  which  enwrapped  the  surrounding  mountains),  this  little 
force,  !J00  strong,  abandoning  their  tents  and  wagons,  entered  the  gorges 
that  led  up  to  the  "  Pass  of  tlie  San  Juan,'  the  head  of  this  great  river 
which  flows  to  the  Pacific. 

With  us  were  7U  Mexican  allies  and  100  pack-mules  transporting  pro- 
visions. In  seven  days,  contending  again.st  snow-storm*  and  ice  at  an 
altitude  of  10,'JOO  feet  in  mid-winter,  and  unpalatable  water,  the  i)assagc 
of  the  "Gridt  Mothi  r  Mountain"  of  the  continent  was  accomplislied.  The 
mea.sles  .scourged  our  camp.  The  brave  boys,  I'oster  and  Rryant,  fell  a 
prey  to  its  ravages. 

Following  for  some  days  the  great  San  Juan,  leaving  its  banks  swarming 
with  the  sheep  and  horses  of  the  Navajos,  and  crossing  towards  tlie  south 
the  inipractii  able  mountain  of  Tunicha  (never  before  trodden  by  white 
men ),  we  de^icended  into  the  cavernous  region  of  Challa,  amidst  the  seclu- 
sion of  which  arc  the  forts  and  fastnesses  of  the  Navajos. 

Astounded  at  the  appearance  of  an  American  force  where  they  had 
trusted  it  could  never  penetrate,  the  chiefs  tendered  presents,  restored  the 
horses  whl'-h  had  been  stolen  from  New  Mevico,  and  promised  abject  sub- 
mission. 

Taking  with  us  nine  chiefs  commissioned  to  l)ind  the  nation,  we  hast- 
ened toward  the  snowy  jicaks  which  rose  200  miles  to  the  east  and  barred 


r, 


128 


A  rPEXDlX. 


our  return  to  Now  Moxico.  At  the  umtern  ba3e  of  those,  in  the  t-rritory 
of  the  Zufii  Tiidiaiis,  wo  awaited  the  arrival  of  tlie  colonel  coniniainiiii" 
to  whom  the  Xavajos'  chiefs  swore  eternal  friendship  to  the  white  jum. 

Marching  hence  uiuhr  the  western  edge  of  t\u)  mountain  crest,  we 
visited  and  smoked  the  jiipe  in  the  city  of  the  Zuni  Indians.  This 
people,  many  of  them  albinos,  one  of  the  lost  specks  of  the  aiitii|iie 
Aztec  race,  inhabit  a  solitary  city  in  the  centre  of  the  immen.se  plain 
traversed  by  a  northern  branch  of  the  Gila  River. 

Hence,  reerossing  the  "  Ciretit  Mother  Mountain"  by  the  Zuni  I'ass  im 
the  four  first  days  of  December,  we  descended  to  the  Del  Norte.  Jnyousiy 
did  we  meet  again  our  fellow-.soldiers,  and  soon  the  i.st  Regiment  found 
it.self  reunited  at  Valverde.  250  miles  below  Santa  Fe,  about  to  pass 
onward  to  the  conquest  of  El  Paso  and  Chihuahua. 

Thus,  since  our  departure  from  Santa  Fe.  luid  our  little  force  under  my 
command  reduced  to  peace  the  Yuta  and  Navajo  nations,  40,(10(1  strong, 
aecompli.shod  a  march  of  750  miles,  cro.ssed  and  recroseed  the  Sierra 
Madre.  pas.sed  the  Tunicha  and  Chiu.ska  Mountains,  and  many  rivers. 

During  many  successive  nights  the  cold  descended  to  the  freczing-jmint 
of  mercury  :  the  streams  were  frozen  solid  :  the  pasture  scanty  :  and  of 
fuel  there  was  but  a  stingy  handful  of  evergreen  woods: — two  bravo  men 
and  many  horses  iiad  perished  :  for  the  rest,  their  health  was  good,  and 
their  spirits  always  gay  and  undaunted. 

This  is  the  first  military  force  of  our  nation  which,  cromug  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  unfurling  the  national  standard  upon  the  uuiti  r.^  <>/  the 
Pacijic,  has  received  for  it  the  submission  of  u  hostile  people  ;  and  this 
was  accomplished  in  the  depth  of  winter. 

A  portion  of  our  little  army  (the  artillery  and  infantry)  remained  to 
occupy  New  Mexico ;  another,  accompanying  (leneral  Keanioy,  had  gone 
to  secure  the  concjuest  of  California.  The  Indians  having  boon  siVduod, 
the  Ist  Regiment  was  now  concentrated  at  \'alverde,  on  the  lower  edge 
of  New  Mexico,  meditating  the  conquest  of  the  rich  and  populous  state 
of  Chihuahua. 

This  was  the  12th  of  December.  Our  regiment  mustered  700  men. 
The  weather  was  intensely  cold,  the  river  ran  with  ice — we  had  no  touts 
— and  our  animals  starved  upon  the  harsh,  dry  gra.ss.  In  El  Paso,  200 
miles  below,  are  comfort  and  plenty — wine  and  corn,  and  houses,  and  a 
delicious  climate;  but  there,  too,  are  a  regular  force  of  1500  Mexicans 
and  five  pieces  of  artillery.  Between  the  armies  is  the  "Jornada,  or 
"Journey  of  the  Dead,"  a  dreary  stretch  of  100  miles,  without  wood  or 
water. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  "Jornada,"  awaiting  our  advance,  were  tiio 


MKXICAX    W.ifl. 


120 


Ami'ii<"ni  nu 


■itIhiiiIs.  liaviiiu'  lUtO  wa-'ons.  diariri'tl  with  81.000.000  worth 


tie  force  muhr  my 
>ns,  40.00(1  strmi"' 
?ro.>«c(l  tlio  Sierra 
<1  many  rivers, 
the  fretzins-jKiiiit 
re  scanty  :  and  of 
: — two  brave  men 
ilth  was  good,  and 

•roxslnrf  tile  Kneky 
the  utit(/s  iif  ike 
people  ;  and  this 

itry)  remained  to 
[car'iey,  had  gone 
ing  been  si  Slued, 
)n  the  lower  edge 
nd  populous  st^ite 

ustercd  7(tO  men. 
-we  had  no  tent.s 
In  El  Paso,  1>(I0 
tid  houses,  and  a 
r  1.J0O  3Ie.\i(an« 
e  '"Jornada,"  or 
without  wood  ipr 

Jvance,  were  the 


of  uieicliiiiidisf.  One  hundred  men  under  Captain  Hudson  suliscijuently 
canio  to  us  from  Santa  Fe.  called  tiie  •  Chiliuaiiua  Kangers" — tlu-y  were 
drawn  from  the  lid  llegiment  (Colonel  I'riee'.sl.  An  exjiress  was  sent 
baek  to  Santa  Fe  for  one  company  of  artillery,  eommamled  by  Captain 
Waitinan.  Tliis  company  overtook  us  afterward.-'  in  Kl  I'aso — abcmt  the 
1st  of  I'ebruary. 

On  tiic  llith,  a  forlorn  hope  of  HOO  pa.ssed  onward  to  open  the  pa.>*sage 
through  the  "Jornada" — witii  this  were  Captains  Parsons,  Waldo,  Keid, 
and  Hodgers.  We  expected  to  meet  the  enemy  as  we  should  pass  onward 
from  its  jaws. 

The  pa.s.sage  was  accomplished — no  enemy  obstructed  our  exit  at  the 
farther  end — we  descended  to  the  river  and  ijuenehcil  our  thirst,  con- 
tinued during  three  days  and  nights.  IJobledo  is  the  nanu'  given  to  the 
lower  mouth  of  the  Jornada.  Twelve  miles  below  is  the  little  town  of 
Dona-Ana — it  has  j)lenty  of  corn  and  ti<lO  people. 

This  is  the  only  settlement  abovi!  Kl  i'aso.  which  is  SO  miles  distant. 
On  the  morrow  we  entered  Pona-Ana.  and  there  learned  Miat  the  Mexican 
army  would  advaiue  to  ineet  us  as  we  should  descend  to  Kl  I'aso. 

On  the  lilJd,  our  whole  force,  having  successfully  pas.sed  the  Jornada, 
reunited  at  Dona-Ana. 

On  the  21th.  our  march  was  18  miles.  On  the  2.')th.  advancing  rapidly 
ahead  of  the  wagon  train,  we  encamped  at  Hrazito,  1!>  miles,  al)out  one 
o  clock.  The  camp-guanl,  (!0  strong,  the  wagon-guards,  and  many  men 
with  jaded  horses,  were  in  the  rear.      77/ /s  inm  ChriMnids  il<i>/. 

At  two  o'clock.  th(!  approa<-hing  cloud  (d'  dust  revealed  the  advance  of 
the  Mexicans.  The  bugles  sounding  to  arm.s.  our  fore(>  was  deployed  in 
a  single  line  on  foot  upon  the  prairie  in  I'ront,  and  envclo}iing  the  wagons: — 
we  numbered  424. 

T!ie  Mexican.s  deployed  immediately  in  our  front,  in  gallant  style,  and 
rapidly  :— they  numbered  IJ.'id.  The  veteran  \'era  Crn/  iMagoons  were 
on  the  right — the  Ciiihuahua  Cavalry  on  the  left — in  the  centre,  infantry. 
Now  it  was  that  a  black  flag  was  flapjied  in  our  eyes  from  the  centre  of 
the  .Mexican  line.      It  was  defied — the  sbo>k  of  battle  followed. 

The  Mexicans  charged  upon  our  line — 'heir  cavalry  converging  to  our 
front,  their  infantry  advancing.  Our  men,  sitting  down  and  receiving 
many  volleys  from  their  artillery,  nuisletry,  and  escopettes.  decoyed  them 
clo.se — when  suddenly  rising  and  pouririg  in  a  lurid  sheet  of  lire,  the  enemy, 
riddleu  . 'erywhere.  fleil  liowlinL'. 

Their  artiliv'v  was  taken.  (i;{  were  killed,  and  a  vast  rpiantity  ol'  arms 
taken  from  them.     Those  who  escaped  deserted  from  the  Mexican  army. 

'J 


r.o 


M'I'KSl'IX. 


dicm  h 


M 


ii-    Clui.-tiiuix  (lav,  llic  '.ttli    aimivi'i-sar}'  i»f  Okciluilicc 
issiiiiri  viiiiiiitcci's  i-oiitii'iii  h|miii  liim  \\iv  ymil  llr  uttcrcil  aj:,i 


lill.i 


■  v  i-xiiiiiiaiiilcr  on  lliat  tiiiiin'i'  dav. 


a  til 


ta:  U'lu'il  iiur  iiiaiclu 


On  ll 


u'  iiiiiniiii<^  II 


ft 


lie  -<lh,  \Vi 


•iili'icd 


Kl  I'iiMi.      Awailin''  \\w  ani\al  nf  aililliiv.  wi'   liiipiid  >i.\  \vi'ik>  in  ll 


(liliiioii.s  M'ttlinicnt."  nl"  El  I' 


Aliinil  2(l.tMM(  .Mcxiianw  lui 


It,' 


f  itlltl\;(lf 


the  jiiaiif.  aiii!  rnjuy  innrii  |piii>|u  rit v  ainl  a  driniuiis  ilunatc. 

On  till'  '.Mhiif  Fi'luiiarv,  we  innvi'il  i>n  fi>  Cliiliualiiia.  Tin-  intcival,  Jxi 
uiilt'>,  it'  M'cn  iiy  vmi  whu  inlialiil  this  nur  vmlant  laml,  wnulil  lie  |ini- 
iiuun(-i.'(l  a  liii\vlin<:  (k'sert,  >\\A\  is  its  aiistcn;  aiul  jiirliiililinii  aiiilitv — 
Saliai'a  ilni's  nut  cxci'i'i 


1  it- 


illlS  III' 


i.»  niiU's,  williunt  waliT,  wiMic.  or 


^rass — j:iavt'l.  sanil.  ami  iink>  jmpsm'.'^;.  it  uuTcl^ — hi'nuiiiliing  lolii  at  nijilit, 
at  iniil-ilay  hut  and  ilitstv. 


Uii  the  liTtli,   wi;  ivai-hotl  Siiiix.  4(1  niilra  iVnni  Chihtiahiia 


miiUvav 


ht't 


wi'i'u  r*iins 


and   Chihuahua   is  Saciaimntu  :   lure  is  the  unlv  watir  in 


that   whiilc  liistaurr.  am 


1   lii't 


wt'i'n   lis 


d  il 


ic  iiji|Mirtanit}   to  .»lakr  our 


lak. 


thirst, 


was  cntrt'iii' 


hed 


•M 


I'xuan  anuY. 


On  the  atUrnooii  of  the  iJSih,  was  j^aimil  //(»  iinnnlluiin  rutm-i/  nj 
Sucninii iitii,  in  w'lich  your  soldiers  cuViTcd  llu'insi'l\i'>  with  iniju'rislr.ililc 
filory.  <  hi  the  toUowiny  and  siieeeediny  da} s  our  whole  coluinu  enteivd 
I'liihuahua. 

At  Cliiliualiiui  we  heard  with  exultation  uf  the  pillunt  eondiiet  of  (1u: 
CoK'  Ini'aiitiy  and  I''islier  s  Aitillery.  at  Canada  and  'i'aos — ol'  llnir  f:in>il 
discijilin.!  a'.id  jiivUant  hearing  whilst  in  •garrison  at  Santa  l''e.  I'licse  wirt' 
soldiei's'  o\'  thr  jiist  itqiiisiti'iii.  »\ul  tried  with  us  tin-  ojH'iiinji  i'ainjiaij;ii  ot" 
the  |irairie.s.  Jiet  u.s  lu>re.  then,  as  at  Chihuahua,  emwu  with  the  sniiii! 
(■ha|ilet  the  sohliers  ol'  IJrazilo.  Sairanieiito,  Canada,  Taos,  iiml  101  I'asu — 
sharin<:;  alike  the  lioimrs  won  iiy  all. 

|)urin,ir  two  nionth.'^  did  the  Missouri  eoluinn  Imlil  undistiirhed  pus- 
.'-i'>sion  III'  the  nietrii|iolis  ot'  Chihuahua,  and  control  its  de|iendem'ies. 
lii>uri'eeliiiiis  jilanned  Imth  here  and  at  Kl  I'a.so  weri'  antiei|iate(l  anil 
iii|i|ieil  ill  the  iienn.  Anieriean  traders  and  nmssenjii'rs  lravii>eil  the  Slate 
iinharnied.  It  had  lieeii  sjiid  that  so  small  a  lone  eoiild  not  liohl  Chihiiu- 
liua.      /f  iiiis  i/i,iir,  and  tiiat  with  a  linn  :inil  lram|uil  ^ras]i. 

Hut  the  jieriod  of  our  serviie  neared  its  elose.      From  our  own  <riiverii- 


ment  not  a  whisjier 


had 


reai 


hed 


I  I'll 


Ul  til 


e  oiitstarl — no  pay — no  amiiiii 


n  lion    (our    eartridues   were    made    of   |iowilei    taken    at     iJia/ilo  i- im 
reiiiloreemeiil.s — mi  mmiey — no  remini.seeiiee  oi'  mir  own  e.vistrm-e  wai^ 


iliseermiili 


111. 


General  Woo!  had  delleeted  from  hi.-^  tiist  iiitt  iiti 


oiis.  ami  III  ll  r  tiitfinifiil 
at  Cliilni'tliiiii.     On  the  liSth  of  Ajiril.  Chihuahua  was  evaeualed,  in  oU;- 


ME  X  re  AX    WAR. 


i.n 


(  (kt'cllnlpff.       'J'llli.S 
//>  iittciv-l  aj;.,iiisi 

If  27tli,  \w  ciiicivd 
■d  >i.\  Wrrk.s  ill  il,^. 

•  iii.s  luic  iiilti\iitc 

iiiialc. 

'I'lir  iiit(  rviil.  L'SO 
mil,  Wdulil  In.  |,|y. 
liiidtliii^  iiiiilitv—. 
lilt  water.  wiPiM;,  (ir 

iiij;  lolilat  iii;;lit, 

liliiialiiia:   iiiidwav 

llu'  uiily  watrr  ill 

mil}   to  .-lake  „ur 

III  III, UK   n'rtori/  i,f 

Willi  imj)(ii,s|Kilp|.- 

•lo  ttiluiiiii  iiitiivd 

tilt  ((.iidint  lit"  the 
Hi!* — (if  tlicir  piiiil 
H  I'V.  Tli( •^«(.  Will,' 
'iiiii};  <imi|iaijiiiot' 
VII  with  ilu'  siiiK! 
I*-*,  and   Kl  I'a.-c, — 

iiiKiistiiilicd   \K\^- 

ilf*  dt|iciid(ii(i('.s. 

f  aiiticijiatt'd   and 

raV(  r>c(l  t|i,.  Stale 

iiiil  liid<i  Ciiiliiia- 

ilS]). 

mir  own  '.'■"Vcrii- 
"  l''''> — II"  •iiiiiiiii- 
■il  IJiazitd) — III) 
VII  «\i.-«iiii(f  \\M 

id  //'  II  r  iipfiiiiiiil 
vacualj'd,  in  oU,'- 


(litnic  to  ati  order  from  rfciKTiil  Taylor,  that  we  *houhl  join  his  column 
at  Hii<ii:i  \'ista  and  Moiitcri'y. 

Tilt'  inaiili  to  .Moiitrrfv.  I'>.')<>  inilt'S.  was  a(<iim]i!i«hid  in  :.'ll  ilay!*--i7 
jiiccfs  of  aiiiilcry.  witli  their  caissons,  and  a  (tain  of  limt  lii-.^  .  v.  ii/ons, 
iii(iiiii|iaiiied  lis.  It  was  ii|ioii  this  descent  from  the  tahje  lilt  Is  •  .  he 
iiiiiiilinie  iciiion.  that  oi;rsiifl'eriii<fs.  from  hr.-ickish  water.  siiP-  :iiiu  ■!;.  t, 
iiiiilit  iij.irches  rendered  necessary  hy  lonjr  strelclies  and  li-' 


r.    LH-t 


cxce.s-ive. 

Here.  too.  at  Kl  Paso,  lit  "•  the  city  of  Parras.  w:  Vun  irV  ri  >U!» 
iictory  ovcrtlu'  ('amaiiche  Indians.  l>y  a  small  hamlfiil  i''  •"•^t'lant  men. 
icil  liy  Captain  Heid  :    17  Indiansl.it  tlie  dn-t. 

From  the  oiit|iosts  of  the  '•soiuhern  arii»v."  Iicvoiid  liueiia  \'ista  we 
reached  ('ainarjro.  on  the  Hio  del  Norte,  in  nine  days — |ias.siiij:  through 
flic  cities  of  Saltillo.  .Monterey,  and  throii::h  Ceralvo. 

Since  the  de](artiirt'  of  the  Missouri  eoliimn  from  the  (/(.</<  r;i  honler  up 
til  iiiir  return  to  oiir  homes  hy  the  I'ls/n-n  honler  of  o'lr  State,  we  havo 
travciscil  the  full  distance  of  7.")1M(  miles. 

No  jMisitioii  of  i'tjual  imiHU'tance  to  that  of  ('hihuahua  has  over  yet 
hccii  licM  liy  the  I'niteil  States  in  Mtxico.  nor  anywhere  hy  so  small  a 
furcc.  One  thousand  Mis.soiirians.  oecu|iyiii>r  ("hihuahu.i.  cut  off  from 
•Mexico,  New  .Mexico,  ami  the  two  Califoinias  in  their  rear. 

I'carin;.'  j)er|ietiiiilly  to  he  invaiietl.  the  States  of  |)nran<jro  an<l  Sonora 
witlihcM  iVoin  the  Mexican  iroveriitiient  all  men.  military  sn|ijilies.  or 
fniaiii  iai  aiil.  The  amiile  wealth,  resources,  mints,  cannon,  foumlries.  and 
mull  rill  i\\'  Chihuahua  were  coiiverteil  to  mir  uses. 

Thus,  ilicn.  hy  this  nnfrul  ]>osition,  were  held  in  check  and  .severctl  from 
the  enemy  three-tifths  of  the  territorial  soil  of  tin;  rejuihlic  id'  Mexico, 
ami  ,')l)tl.tlilll  ot'  her  |>o|iulation. 

'I'lii.-  |iii>iti.in.  t commamls   he  pvat  and  maiL'nifieent  road  whicli  leads 

iliiwn  the  central  tahli'  lands,  throuirh  the  c;i|iit.ils  id'  I>uraiip>,  Zacateeas, 
.\i:iia>('alientes,  Leon,  (iiianaxuato.  and  (^uerefaro.  to  the  city  of  Mexico. 
Tiiis  route  is  unohstructed  hy  nnuintains.  ami  leads  to  Mexico  thr<iU'^li  an 
idiuiiilant  ami  very  healthy  re;j:ion.  If  is  the  one  hy  which  the  trailers 
fitim  Missouri  annually  visit  the  great  •'  fair  id"  San  Juan"  ami  the  city  of 
Mexico. 


Ill 


It  a|i|iears  to  me  that  the  column  of  Mi>soiiri  is  the  only  one  which  has 
ade  war  with  eth'ct  aiel  olitainetl  from  it  woitiiv  rcMilts.  To  he  sure,  iiir 
iveriiment  lias  tlirown  them  aw.iv,  as  uuworthv  <d' notice,  ami  worthless; 


hut  th 


IS  does  not  k'.s.sen  mir  merits. 


A;-l 


In  June.     It),  when  the  Mis>iouri   c(dumii  left  Fort    I.eavenwt.rth,  (leii- 
erai  Taylor  s  column  was  at   Camaigo,  ready  to  march  un  Mexico  hy  the 


I  i' 


^ 


•!^3 


il 


1:52 


A  ri'KSDIX. 


route  111'  S.iii  liiiis  INiiiisi.  In  June,  17,  tlii'  Missouri  I'olimin,  rrturning 
til/  till  (liilf.  liiiiinl  (Iciicriil  Taylor's  adviint'o  posts  at  Hufiia  \'ista,  only 
-SINK  DAVs'  MAltcil  in  advance  ol'  that  same  ('ainarj:o. 

T^)  Jie  sure,  Taylor's  eolunin  hail  won  Lrreat  vietories  ;  Imt   so  also  Ijnd 


tin-  colii.Min  ol'  Missouri,  a^^ainst  a  variety  of  i-nein 


les. 


Tho  southern  army  lay  licliilesH  u]ion  an  uiiiinportuiit  cd^re  of  Mex 


ICII, 


heninied  in  liy  jiuerrillas— sueh  as  we  found  it,  its  ex|>enses  .mioiinted  tn 
.?i.(imi.(l(M)  |,er  vvt<'k.  7'),0IM»  Anieriean  soldiers  had  he.'U  sent  in  :iii<i 
out  ol'  Mexico  in  a  single  year  in  this  direction. 

The  nuinl)ers  of  soldiers  had  borne  a  Hijiall  ratio  to  those  t'in]iloye(|  in 
iiieii-of-wur,  in  fleets  of  transports  and  steamers,  at  tlie  depots,  and  with 
wa^on  trains.  Fit\i\-  mouths  had  been  consumed  advaneini:  from  the  I)cl 
Norte  to  Monter«!y,  2S(I  miles.  /'/»>■  months  from  Monterey  to  Saltillo, 
80  miles.      Ihnw  forward  i  11  has  been  eomjdete  sta;^natiori. 


Tl 


le  pn.«;se."<sio 


MS  of  the  .s('iithern  army  are  strictly  conlined  to  the  citic 


of  Monterey  and  Saltillo.  A  whole  army  is  consumed  in  L'uardinir  from 
ma.x.sacre  and  ile>truetion  thi  trains  pa.ssintr  alonj:  the  road  that  connects 
them  with  the  J>ei  Norte,  only  \W\  miles. 

T}ie   ro/iiiiiii   It/  ^fissoltri   iiiifijt'irtcd    tlmlf  /nnii    the    Mr.ri,'ini  jnirsft. 
After  fulfilling  its  orders  co'.npletely.  by  the  con((nest  of  the  States  of 


New  3lexicn.  Chihuahua,  the  two  ("aliforni:i 


iiKl  iiuni 


sllIuL' 


many 


Ind 


Ian 


nations — clo-iinir  its  onward  pro<xress  at  Chihuahua,  we  have  inai'ched  tilMl 
miles  from  the  hear'  of  tl'e  .Mexican  territory,  n/miin/  out  te  (ienerals 


Tavl 


or  uiul 


Wool. 


Filially,  one  irreat  result  is  proved  by  these  various  campaiirus.  /t  is  lii/ 
till'  riiUtr  iij  till  iiliiliiy  mill  flir  tilhh'  IiIiiiIk  nf  Mr.riro  <iM,Y.  tlnil  /lir  Mfixi- 
run  iidtinii  run  In  roiiifiirinl  mill  lirhl  in  nuhjrctltni  hi/  the  Aim  rirmif. 

The  eonli^iiration  of  the  country,  the  healtli,  the  fiupjilie.s  upon  the 
route,  its  shortness,  and  tlu^  extraordinary  results  accomplished  by  the 
.Mis.-oiiri  column,  di'iiionstrate  this.  The  slender  means  and  small  cost  of 
our  (jimpaiirii  add  more  stronu'  jiroofs  of  this. 

/■r/littc-coiinfri/nicn  a  in/  Lmliix :  The  soldiers  of  the  first  rrijin'xiti'ou  from 
Missouri,  exceptiiitr  those  who  sleep  forever  beneath  the  shadows  of  th( 
Sierra  Madre,  have  returned  to  receive  the  frreetinirs  of  their  friends  and 
kindred.  We  brinu  with  us  the  spoil  of  the  enemy  as  trophies  of  our 
victories. 


Th 


asseuililie.s 


bli 


-th 


erowils  of  fair  women  a>id  brave  men — flu 


•omplinient.iry  festivals  an<l  flatterinir  woi<ls  resoundiiii:  in  our  ears  from 
every  \  illauc  and  from  every  cabin,  are  the  trratifyinjr  rewards  of  our 


■ft"ort,< 


and  our ( 


hvils 


'I'liiis  are  our  loiij;-susjH;nded  hopes  and  painful  anxieties  consummated 


ii 


& 


MExrrw  wm. 


188 


••I'lninii,  rrt„r,,;„ff 
{||<ll;i   \'i.s(a,  ()M,y 

,   Imu   so  nU„  lijij 

It  ('•L'-i'  (.r  Mr.xici, 

■IISC.1   .iiiioiiiitid  to 

Im'cii   .s(..|it    ii,  ;„„| 

liosc  ciniildycil  ill 

'    <li'|M(ls.  ;i||(|  Willi 

"■ii'.i:  (V.iiii  ill,.  1),,| 
'iiti'ivy  to  Saltillo, 
inn. 

iliiicd  til  till,  citi,,,.^ 

in  -iiaidiiiL,'  iV.im 

roiid  tliat  coniictts 

<•*■  flic  States  of 

lini:  many  Indinn 

liavo  niarchod  (i(»(i 

/  "I'f  (••  (lenorals 

nipaiirns,  //  /,<  /,y 
i.V,  //„!/  Ilir  Mr.n- 
"'  Aiiiiriffiiis. 
iil>l>lif.'<  u|Hin  till' 
inij-lishcd  l.y  the 
iiiid  .iniall  c().st  (if 

If  ri'fpn'sififiii  from 

I'  .sli.idows  ot"  fill 

tlicir  friends  and 

tro|ilii(.s  (if  our 

•avi'  nion — tlicsr 
in  our  (>ar.s  fmni 
rewards  of   our 

es  coiisuumiafed 


by  a  iliH>p  and  gratifying  scn.sc  of  triiiin|ili.     So  bavu  we  in-rfunutil  our 
ta.'ik,  and  .>4Ui'li  is  our  iiiunititvnt  reward. 

Suffer  me  to  say, — as  oiio  elevated  by  their  own  suffnijri-s  !<■  an  iui|Mir- 
tiuit  loiuni.ind  ;imoii;T  tliem. — a.s  well  to  my  feliow-SKliJier' a.«  t«>  llur^-  here 
lircx'iit  who  have  sons,  or  hrothi  rs,  or  friends  anions:  theiii.  that  I  r<>iin<l 
at  all  times  the  numt  adinirahlu  di.sei|iline:  the  inorit  {>r<iiii|>t  and  s|m)|i- 
taneoiis  oliediencc — at  all  tiujo.s  a  luode.st  umussiiuiiti;;  l>n«v«Ty,  whieli  met 
thirst  and  eold  and  starvation  and  l  .^haiistinL:  niirht  uiarehe;>.  with  .•Hin<r< 
and  ;-'iiyety  and  merriment. 

I)is]ilayod  on  the  tield  and  in  the  hour  of  battle  hy  a  )|uiet  anxiety  for 
the  eliarge,  and  then  |diin<rin<;  down  u|M(n  the  enemy  with  a  fiery  fury 
which  ovirwhelmeil  them  with  defeat  and  stuie_'  them  witli  di->|i:iir. 
These  (|uaiities  they  adorned  with  moderation  after  victory,  and  elemeuev 
to  the  vaiH|nished. 

But  the  eareer  of  your  .soldiers,  so  hapjdiy  he<nin.  eloisii'S  not  heiv. 
May  they  not  yet  devote  their  younir  eiieiL'ies  to  a  eountry  whieh  they 
;i!iiently  love,  and  whieh  thus  j;eiieiously  illustrates  it.^Jove  for  them? 

War  has  been  to  our  j>n»gre.ssive  nation  the  fruitful  .■<-at)on  of  general in<; 
new  offspring  to  our  eonle<l«'ratioii. 

During  the  Revolution,  little  armies,  i.ssuing  from  tlie  Alleghanit's.  fia.s.<<><l 
os'cr  Kentuei;y,  the  Northwest  Territory,  and  Tennessee.  The?*-  new  eiiun- 
tries  had  heen  reeonnoitred  and  admired.  With  hanly  frimes.  eonfinued 
health,  and  reeruited  by  a  year  or  two  of  peaee.  these  soldier*  returned 
to  oecupy  the  choice  sjiots  whi(di  hail  been  their  bivouac  and  cauijiiiig- 
giounds.  l''rom  the  campaigns  id"  war  grew  the  settlements  of  |iea«T.  and 
jiopulous  States  dis|)la(;ed  the  wilderness.  Another  war  came  with  another 
generation — armies  jienetrated  Miehigim,  uy<\)eT  Illinois,  and  into  MLvsis- 
sippi.  The  great  Mi.ssi.ssippi,  ero.s.><i'il  at  many  |M>iiits.  eea.s«il  to  Ik?  a  l>ar- 
n'er,  and  the  steamboat  appeared,  plowing  its  yellow  flow.  Five  great 
States  and  2,(MMI,((0(>  of  |)eople  embla/on  its  western  bank. 

Anil  ii'iir,  (if/ain,  have  come  atuithrr  i/eiienifioii  uml  «/H»*/A»*r  icar.  Your 
little  armies  have  sealed  the  et<!rnal  barrii-rs  of  the  ••  Mother  Mountain" 
of  the  New  World,  and,  buried  for  a  time  in  the  maz^-s  of  11*  manifold 
peaks  and  ridges,  liave  ibljuHclud  at  many  points  upon  the  briny  Ix^eh 
of  the  Pacific. 

P.issiiig  round  by  the  great  oceans,  a  military  innrinf  simultanoouslj 
strikes  the  shore  and  lends  them  aid.  Thus  is  the  wihlem«>S!?  r«fon- 
noitred  in  war,  its  geography  illustnited,  and  its  conquerors  di.«4.-iprtucd. 
Your  soldiers,  renting  for  a  time  at  home,  will  s;dly  forth  apiin..  and, 
wielding  the  weapons  of  hus})andry.  give  to  you  rtKids  that  will  nurture 
commerce  and  a  sisterliood  of  maritime  Stuttit  on  thf  imr-founJ  r^tan. 


I      !| 


i|! 


134 


AI'PK.MHX. 


We  return,  tlu'ii,  tu  tin-  liosoiii  (il'tiiir  lilnriMiiH  State,  to  bury  our  liouiid- 
iiig  liearts  iu  tlie  joys  of  responsive  ^natulations.  Coining  tVoni  arid 
wastes  and  tlio  unrelieved  stttrility  ol'  mountains  and  plains,  to  sian  a^iain 
the  verdant  lields  and  niantliii';  forests  of  our  niotlier-land,  wliicli  nt'  us 
ull  tloes  not  apostrophize,  with  glowinj;  hearts,  our  native  scenes? — II  nil  to 
Colundiia,  land  of  our  liirtli — hail  to  her  niagnitieent  domain — hail  to 
her  generous  peojik — huil  to  her  matrons  and  her  maidens — hail  to  her 
victorious  soldiers — <M  hutlXa  her  im  s/ir  i".s — hail  to  the  suhlime  dc.xtiuy 
which  hears  her  on  through  |ieace  and  war,  to  make  the  limits  of  llm 
uoutiuent  her  own,  and  to  endure  forever  ! 


i    I 


IT. 
SI'KKCK    OF    ('(M..    WIMJA.M    (illJ'IN 

(iS  TIIK  sriUK<  T  (iK  TIIK  I'.MIKH'  IIAII.WAV  KlItST  SI'iikKN  AT  TlIK  lAMI'  tif 
HVK  TlliKSAMt  (  AI.IKlillMA  KM  |i. II  ANT.-',  AT  \VAKi:i(l-.\  SnW  TIIK  ITTY  itK 
I.AWUKM  i;,.  KANSAS.  KKI'KATKli  AT  I N  KKI'KNhKNiK.  Ml»i'l  Itl.  AT  A  M  \S.S 
MKKTINtI    iiK    TIIK    (TTI/KNS   oK   .lACKSK.N    Idl  NTY,  IIKI.H    NnVKMIIKIl    ■.,  IM'.I. 


It  is  willi  |iriili)im(l  |)li'jisur('.  Mr.  ('Iiiiiiiiiaii.  lli.it  I  Mildnss  my  li'llnw- 
titizi'iis  lii'ic  ii.ss«'iiil»l«>d  to  rt'M|Miii(I  ii|i|in>viiij:l}  to  the  Niitidiial   ('niivcn- 


tiiiii  ii 


t  St.  [ 


idlllS. 


Iliiviii};  sliiind  witli  the  itiniiccrs  rrmn  Mis.-'imii  in  tin;  iiri;;iii:il  ('\|iliir:i- 
timi  iiiiil  sctllt'iiicnt  of  On-jroii  mihI  Califiiriiiu — liaviiii;  since  hi'di  iini- 
iiiiiDii^  tiiMsc  holdicrs  wlm  t-anitil,  iliiriiii;  war,  mir  national  fla^  iicni.sH 
the  Siena  Maiiie,  ami  jilantcd  it  ii|i<iii  tin- waters  tli'.sccmlini.'  to  tlie  Paeific 
(never  tliemi!  t(i  recede) — I  j:reet  willi  enllmsiaslic  jny  tliese  civic  iimve- 
nu'iits  dl"  tlu!  iieiijde  to  ((insmiimale,  with  the  frreat  work.s  uf  peace,  what 
war  and  e\|ili)rati(iii  have  ii|ieiied. 

I>i|il(iniacy  and  war  have  hron^dit  to  ns  the  ciiin|iletion  of  our  territory 
and  |ieac«'.  From  this  we  advance  to  the  iiKsii.TS.  These  results  are, 
tiir  tlie  present,  the  imperial  expan.sioii  of  our  repuhlic  to  the  other  ocean: 
frail     lity  with  Asia  :  and  tlu^  const  met  ion  acio.ss  the  et^ntre  of  our  ler- 


ritorv.  'loin  ocean  to  oe«'a 


to  us 


n,  of 


I  ^rreal   iron  ]iatiiway.  specially  national 
iriternatioiial   to   llie  northern  eoiitinent.s  of  America,  Asia,  and 


'iiiriip( 


III  approacliiii>.;  a  discussion  of  a  "  Xatiiuial   Railroad  from  the  Missis- 
ippi  to  the  I'acilie,"  intinite  in  numlier  and  variety  are  the  matters  \.Ui-h. 


d  t 


swarm   up  and  deinanu  to  array  themselves  in   its  advocacy 


th 


..  do  I 


feel  emliarra»sed  how  to  .say  such  thinjis  only  as  are  true  and  .-e.i.sille  in 


th< 


leiiiselves,  iis  well  as  interestiii'i  to  mv  hearers :   let  me,  then.    Lei-h  what 


my 

I  may  say  uiuler  the  followiiiir  head"  :- 

1st.  Th(>  national  character  of  this  work,  and  it 


s  iiirisxi 


'.'/■ 


-d.   Its  pracli<al>ility.  and  the  jiresent  capacity  of  the  nation. 

•  >d.  Tlu^  time  and  manner  of  its  eonstruetion. 

I'ro^re.^s,  political  lilterty.  eipiality.  These,  the  most  ancient  iiiid  car- 
dinal rij^hls  of  human  society.  |ierple.\cd  in  the  olt.scurily  of  military  '\v»- 
potisin,  and  almo.st  lo.st  for  many  centuries,  are  now  struj:<;lin}X  thioutrliout 


iiHi! 


1^ 


il 


« 


13G 


Al'I'KXD/X. 


tlio  wt>rl(l  t(»  if-('.stalili>li  tlicir  jiic-ciiiiiuiicc  In  Aimrica  they  occiiipv 
the  vaiita<j;o-^n)iiii(l ;  liu-  MiviTci^nly  icsitli^  in  tin-  .siitl'ia|ro,  anil  witli  us 
it  is  universal. 

I'ln^rcss,  lliiii,  in  Aint-iica  lias  tiic  intcnsitx  oC tlic  wlmlc  ixuplc,  ^jniw- 
in^  itsvll'  in  toinis  as  intinitc  as  tho  tluiuulits  nl'  the  human  n  ml.  Itut 
it  is  til  liiat  (l('|iartnii.'nt  tif]ir(ijircss  which  t-rcati's  fiir  us  new  Slates  in  ihc 
\vil(|(  rntss,  and  cxiiainis  the  ana  »it"  nur  I.Jciiulilic,  that  1  licit'  restrict 
niyscir.      Let    us   umlerstand //((>■ ;   what    it  is  at  the  jnesent   Imur — wliat 


simulate: 


k'hat  retards  it. 


Since   1(1(IS  wi!  have  ^irown  Irnm  nuthini:  to  22,(MI(I,(MI((  :   Irmn  a  i;; 


ir- 


deii-liatch,  tt»  lie  thirty  States  and  many  'i'erritiiries !  This,  with  aj;riciil- 
lure,  manutaulures,  cDmmerce.  |Miwcr.  and  hapiiiness,  is  mir  jimtiros  sc» 
fiir. 

The  annual  yield  in  inuney  of  this  ajrriculture  and  manufactures  is  nnw 
Sl',(I(MI.(MM».(KM».  This  enmmeiTo  vexes  all  the  waters  and  penetrates  to 
all  the  nations  ot  the  earth.  This  jiower,  tranijuilly  coni|ilele  on  our  own 
continent,  com|icls  |ieaccrnl  dercrence  aliroad.  This  happiness,  se  hcncli- 
ceiilly  felt  at  home,  ret  ruit,«  us  with  the  oppicssed  ol"  all  nations. 

litit  the  lite  of  a  nation  is  loniz.  I'nlike  human  life,  hrielly  exlin- 
"uished  in  the  i;rave.  a  iiation  lireathcs  evei-  on  with  the  viuor  of  "viicra- 


tioiis  of  men  daily  arrivinir  at  maturity,  and   then  de|iartin^ 


nation 


luiH  then  a  iiiiniiiil  law  of 


*th  ;  and  il  is  this  law  which  evcrv  Aniericii 


II 


citi/en  ou^ht  familiarly  to  nnilersland.  for   iliedieiice  to  it  is  the  first  duly 
of  patriotism. 

I'p  to  the  year  IS  id,  the  proi;ress  wherehy  iwciity-si.N  States  and  four 
Territories  had  heeii  estahlished  ami  peopled,  had  amounted  to  a  solid 
strip  i)\'  till  III i/-/in  mi/is  in  depth,  added  aiinmilly,  alon^'  the  western  face 


)f  the  I'nion 


I'liiii 


Canada  to  the  <  iulf. 


'J'liis    occupation    of    wild    territory,    accumiilatini:    outward    like    the 
annual   viiijrs  of  our   forest    trees,   juoceedls  with   all   the  .solcinnily  of  a 


I'rovidential  ordinaiiet 


II   IS  a 


I    th 


IIS  moment  sweeping  onward  to  tin 


icilie  will 


■leiated   acti\itv  and   forei',  like  a  delu';e  of  men,  rising 


tnaliatedly,  and  daily  )iuslie(l  oiiwanl  hy  the  hand  of  (iod. 


It    is  from    tilt!  uliilisf 


irs   acel 


iiiiulated    in   the  hureaux   at  Washini't 


on 


(tlu'  decennial   cciimis,   sales   of  piililii'   lands,   a.sse.ssmeiils  of  Static   and 

i.diice  with  ceilaiiilv  the   law  of  this   deluj'e  of 


national    taxe: 


ihal 


lal   We    1 


human  heiiiys.  which  iniihin^  iiilerrnpls  mikI  no  power  can  stop. 

I'r.intinj:  the  I'liion  on  every  side  is  ;i  vast  (//■/*/// of  pioneers.  Thi- 
va«t  hody,  iiuinlierinu  .'(IMI.IIUII  at  least,  has  the  iiioveinents  and  olieys  the 
discipline  of  a  |ierfecily  oiiiaiiized  military  force.  It  i.-«  momentarily  re- 
cruited liy  siiijih'  individuals,  families,  and.  in  sonic  inslaneex.  eoniniiinititis, 


icrica  tlicy  (,(tu|,.,- 
tlnip'.  iiiiil  Willi  u> 

Wllulc    |M(.|||,.,  f.\u,\\- 

nniiiiii   II    11(1.     ];„( 

:.S    11, 'W  SlMlcS    ill    (1„. 

lal  I  licit,  lohict 
iv.sciit   liDur — wjiat 

•,0(1(1  :  lioiii  a  u.,|.. 
Tliis,  with  a;;ii(iil. 
is  iiiir  jiru;^ri','«.s  so 

laiiuf'acturcs  is  now 

ihd   iH'iictratt's  in 

iiii]il('lc  (III  iiiir  (nvn 

a|(|iiiicss,  .sc  liciicli- 

II  nations. 

life,  iiiicfly  cxtiii. 

Ill'  viiiiir  (if  j:ciici:i- 

•arliiif;.      A  iiatinii 

icli  fVi'i  V  Aiiiciiciiii 

it  is  the  first  duly 

•  IX  Slates  ami  fimr 
iiiiiinti'd   t(i  a  snliil 

If,'  till'  Wl-isttTII  liliv 

imlwanl  like  tlir 
H'  sdlciiiiiity  til"  a 
n.u  iinward  to  the 
ip'  III'  nicn,  rising' 
od. 

IX    at  Wa.sliiiii^rfdii 
■Ills  (>r  Stale   and 
of  this  (IcIiim;,.  ,,| 
ran  slri|i. 

f  |pi<iiieer.s.      This 
iitM  and  olieys  tlie 
s  iiioinentaiily  re 
lees,  eonumiliiliiM. 


77/ A"   /M  V/FIC  It  A  IL  WA  Y. 


137 


from  evei'V  villafie.  eounly,  city,  and  State   in   the   I'liioii,  and  by  ouii- 


raiit 


Is  fi'iiin  other  nations. 


Eaili  man   in  this  moving,'  thronj^  is  in  force  a  jilatoon.     lie  makes  a 
farm  u|pon  the  outer  cdjio  of  the  settlements,  which  he  occii|iies  lor  a  year, 

tin 


i.m 


1  tliiMi  sells  to  the  leading  liles  of  the  inasw  inessing  uji  to  him  In 


behind. 

He  aj;ain  advances  twenty-five  miles,  renews  his  farm,  is  again  over- 
taken, and  again  .sells.  As  individuals  fall  out  from  the  front  rank,  or  fix 
lliemselviis  |iermancntly,  others  rusli   from  ludiind,  jiitss  to  tlm  front,  and 


a.s8iiil  tlie  wilderness  in  tlieir  turn 


th 


1 


icvioiis  to  tlu!  late  war  wi 


th  .M 


ex  ICO, 


this  I 


HIS\ 


til 


roll''  was  entra'jei 


lat 


(iiie  |piiiiit   ill   oecii|iyiiig  the  jieninsula  of  Florida  and   lands  vacated   liy 
ant  Indian  trihi's — at  another  in  re.'cliing  the  cojijier  region  of  liako 


ciiiil:!' 


iSuperior — III  al)Sor)iing  lowu  u 


uid  W 


iscoii.''in. 


1- 


I'liiii 


tl 


lis  v<'ry  s|io 


t  liad  •'one  forth  a  forlorn  hoiie  to 


oee 


"10' 


o 


rc"(iii 


and  ('alitiirnia :  Texas  was  thus  annexed:  the?  Indian  eounlry  pressed 
u|ion  its  flanks;  and  s]iy  conipanies  reeoniioitring  New  and  Old  Mexico. 

Kveii  then,  oheyiiig  that  mysterious  and  iineoiitrollaMe  impulse  wliicli 
drives  our  nation  to  its  goal,  a  body  of  the  hardiest  race  that  ever  faced 
varied  and  unnnmliered  priv.-itioiis  and  dangers  cmliarked  iipcn  tlie  trail 
to  the  Pacific  coast,  forced  their  way  to  the  end,  cneoiinteriiig  and  defy- 
ing dangers  and  diflieulties  uiijiaralleled,  with  a  courage  and  siii'ce.ss  iho 
like  to  which  the  World  has  not  heretofore  seen. 

'fliiis,  then,  iivcrhniil  sweeps  this  tide-wave  of  pojiiilation,  alisorhing  in 
its  tliiindering  march  the  glebe,  the  sa\agi's,  and  the  wild  beasts  of  the 
wilderness,  scaling  the  mountains  and  debouching  down  upon  the  sea- 
board. 

I  poll  tl'.e  high  Atliiiillf  sea-coast,  the  pioneer  Ibrci-  has  thrown  itst'lf 
into  ships,  and  found  in  the  ocean-fisheries  food  for  its  creative  genius. 
The  whaling  fleet  is  the  iiimiiir  force  of  the  pioneer  army. 

These  two  forces,  by  land  and  sea,  have  both  worked  steailily  onward 
III  the  North  Pacific.  They  now  reunite  in  the  harbors  of  Oregon  and 
raliliii'iiia,  about  to  bring  into  existence  u|miii  the  I'a'ifie  a  commercial 
grandeur  identical  with  that  which  has  followed  them  upon  the  Atlaiitiu. 

National  wars  stimulate  progress,  for  tiny  are  the  coii.scinience  of  indis- 
creet op|iositioii  and  jealousy  of  its  inarch — and  becaii.se  in  these  jieriods 
of  exciteinent  the  advciitii.-oiis  brush  thrnngh  the  cobweb  laws  spun  by 
the  metaphysics  of  peace.  Then  it  is  that  the  yoNiig  yxVy/iryr.s,  cnleriiig 
til"  armies  ol'  the  iVoiil  nr,  rush  out  and  reconnoitre  llu'  unpruiied  wilder- 
iie.xs. 

J.'uriii-    ihc    lii  till  K  til  III.  \\n\i'  armies,    i.Hs.«ing   down    the   Aili'ghanie.s, 


in-.l 


■ii 


^,!'i  i| 


i 


ill 


138 


M't'i:.\hi.\. 


jmssoil  liver  Kentucky,  Tciincssir.  aiiil   tin-  Ntirtliwest  Territory.      Tlicw 
new  ((luntries  wen;  rucdinmitred  and  ailuiired       Witli  hardy  tVa 


nies,  I'dii- 


iirined  liealtii,  and  reeruited  liv 


year  nr  two  of    jieaee,   tliese  mi|(Ii<'i> 


returned  to  oeeupy  tlu-  elioiee  sjiots  wliieli  liad  lieen  ilieir  liivuune  iiiiil 
eaniiiin^'-jrrouiid.s. 

From  the  eani)iai<;nM  ut' war  grew  the  i^ettlenients  ot'peaee,  and  |in|<nl<>ii.s 
States  diM|ilaeed  the  wiKh-rness. 

Ahiitlier  war  eanie  witli  anoth<'r  <;eia>r;ition.  Annies  ]ienetrated  inin 
Miiliij^an,  u|)|ier  lllinoi.x,  and  throu^li  .Missis-^ipiii.  Tlu'  great  .Mi»i»i|i|ii 
IJiver,  crossed  at  many  |ioints,  ceased  to  he  a  harrier,  and  the  stcanilio:it 
aj»iieared,  jdowinjj;  itHycHow  flood,  /'ar  great  Stales,  yitv.  Territories,  ami 
tlirir  iiiiZ/iiiiis  ol'|ief)jih'  \u>w  eml)hi/,on  its  western  sidtt ! 


An.l 


now  again  have  come  another  "eneration  and  anotlier  wai 


\ 


our 


armies  liave  scaled  the  icy  harriers  of  tlie  ".I/o/Ar/-  Miiiiiif'iin'  and  llic 
AiitltK.  Hid  tor  a  time  in  the  mazes  of  their  manitold  |K>aks  and  ridges, 
tliey  have  issued  out  at  many  points  n|ioii  the  l>eacli  of  the  hiue  I'.icitic. 
Passing  round  liy  tlu'  great  oceans,  a  military  tnarini-  simultaneously  strikes 
th((  shore  and  lends  them  aid.  Thus  is  the  wilderne.vs  reconnoitred  in 
war,  itH  geograpliy  illuNtral<Ml,  ami  itts  conquerors  disciplined. 

Your  young  soldiers,  resting  for  a  moment  at  home.  rcMiming  the  civic 
wreath  and  weapons  of  hushandry,  have  .sallied  I'orlh  again  to  give  to  vim 
great  roads  lor  commerce  and  a  sisterhood  ot"  nuiritiiiir  Stati's  on  tlu-  new- 


found 


ocean. 


Only  four  years  ago,  th((  nation,  misled  hy  prejudic(-s  artfully  instillcil 
into  the  general  'iiiud,  regarded  the  great  \V<'>lern  wilds  uninhahitalilc.  ami 
the  lU'W  ocean  (Ut  of  reach.  Why  canu' :  Itid.dlM)  .soldiers,  and  as  many 
citi/,en8,  went  forth,  penetrated  everywhere,  and  returned  to  relate  in  every 
<»p«'n  ear  the  wonderful  cxctdlence  of  tho  climates  and  countries  lliey  had 


8e(>n. 


l/iiirr  Inive  oonu!  already  tliese  new  States,  this  other  .seahoard,  and  the 
renewed  vivacity  of  progress  with  which  the  general  heart  now '.dpitates. 
Will  this  cease  or  slacken  ?  lias  the  poiu'ing  forth  of  tlw  stream  IVoin 
Europ»iever  ceased  since  the  day  <  f  Cohunhus?    lias  the  grass  uMiterated 


the  ti 


rails  down  the  Alleghanies  or  acro.ss  the  .>li,ssissip|ii 


.Mi 


Hath 


ct  I'iin 


who  douhts  scat  himself  upon  the  hank  of  our  magnitieenl  river  and  await 


th 


0  running  dry  of  its  yellow  waters; 


for 


soon 


cr  shall   he  see  this,  than  a 


cessation  in  the  crowd  now  flowing  loo.se  to  tlie  iriftrrn  seahoard  ! 

(ioldisdng:  Inmher  is  manufactured:  pastoral  and  arahle  agrienllurc 
grow  apace  ;  a  marine  flushes  into  existence:  commerce  resounds :  the  fish- 
eries arc  prosecul<'d  :   vessels  are  huilt  :   steam  pants  (lirough  all  the  waters. 

Kaeh   interest   stimul.aing  all  the  rest,  and   prrpelually  creating   novel- 


li,..v  ;i  career  is  i 
human  eye  assig 
Till'  distance 
wluiv  >""  1^'"^'' 
some    l.'.iMI    mil 
riijiiiiu  is  very 
(lie  .-uurccs  ot    I 
but  more  iniinei 
Skilelnd   li> 
Aiidis,  deliouc! 
two  primary  ch; 
(hi  the  /•/'//'' 
can  tiiiir,  divid. 
hrok.ii  water-sli 
the  ii-a.-t  of  the 
aldiigthe  coast  I 
terminates  also 
The  ininicns 
niontaiie  liasins 
whole  forms  th 
/•'/V.>7,  is  the 
drainage  of  ho 
ocean,  are  disjit 
Sir, ,11, 1,   the 
streams  drainii 
without  any  oi 

77-//./.  the 

del  Norte,  the 

Giande  del  N. 

hurst  through 

gcoloi^ieal  <'hai 

all  as>igii  it  tli 

their  waters  ti 

Fiiiirlli,  the 

incuse  !iasin  e 

who'.e  conllui 

athwart  from 

i'onii  I       Into 

eye  has    lU^VU! 

(lies  Nature  i 

of  such  migli 


I'iifi'.  and  |in|,iil.>ii.s 


i"»   pciirtriitcil   inii 


md   the  .sIcjiiiilMut 
''•'  Ti'iriliii-ic.*.  iiriil 


iiillii'i-  war.  V.iiir 
li>iiiit<iln"  anil  ilif 
jM-aks  and  ridiii's, 
«'  tin"  l.luc  I'acili... 
iillancdusly  .Htrikis 
<•*  rc('(inn<ii(icd  in 


•t'Miinini:  tin'  civic 


'^taU'.s  (in  the  n 


■<  !irtrnlly  instilld 
iiiiidialiitalth'.  ami 
i<'rH,  and  as  many 
I  til  relate  in  evcrv 
"nntiies  tlu'v  liad 


W'lihoard,  and  tli 


^'i-a.s.s  i.lijiieraled 
'  liathe:'  h't  Mm 
I'  river  and  await 


xonndfi:  tlictisli 

-di  all  the  waters 

creatinu'  nn\e|. 


THE    I'M/FIC   It  Ml.  11. 1  )•. 


i:5'j 


tic,^.  a  career  i.<  cinuniiMiccd  to  wliicli,  „.v  it  glances  atTos.s  tlio  I'acilic,  tlio 
JiuniiMi  eye  as.«i^'ns  nn  term. 

Tlic  distance  IVnm  tile  tup  til'  till-  Sii iiii  Miiiln  (  Kdcky  Mountain.s), 
will  I'c  \ou  leave  lieliind  the  water.-*  Huwinn  to  the  Atlantic,  is  c\erywlu'ro 
soMic  l."iiH(  miles.  Tile  t(ijioj;rai(liical  cliaracler  of  this  iillniii.oiitniw 
rcfiii'ii  is  very  f;rand  and  characteristic.  It  is  identical  with  the  reniun  at 
the  .Hinrccs  of  the  La  I'lata,  Ama/i)n,  and  Majidalena  iil'  Suulh  Anieiica, 
hut  niiMc  innnen.se. 

Sketched  hy  its  j;reat  dutlincs,  it  is  simply  this:  The  chain  ul'  t!ie 
Aixks,  dehdiichin^'  north  from  the  Isthnuis,  opetis  like  the  letter  V  into 
two  primary  chains  (^0>nli//i nis). 

On  the  /•/'//(/  the  SiKKll.V  .M.MiKK.  trendinjr  ahinjj:  the  coast  of  the  .Mexi- 
can (iidf,  divides  the  northern  continent  almost  centrally,  formini;  an  un- 
hrokcn  Wiiter-,shed  to  {{••hrinj;'s  Strait.  On  the  //yl',  the  Anuks  follows 
the  cna.-l  of  the  I'acilic,  warps  aroiimi  the  (iiilf  of  California,  and,  passine 
aloMu  the  coast  of  California  and  ( )re^on  (  under  the  nameof  Sjeiia  Nevada) 
terminates  also  near  Hehrini^'s  Strait. 

The  immciisi^  interval  hetween  these  chains  is  a  siu'ccssion  of  inlni- 
inoiiiai:e  liasins,  sin  n  in  nnndter,  and  ran^in^  from  .south  to  north.  Tliu 
whole  forms  the  (litK.vr  I'l.vrK.vf  mk  tiik  T.mu  k  L.vnds. 

Firs/,  is  the  "  ISasin  ol"  the  City  of  Mesico.'  receiving'  the  interior 
(Irainaiiv  of  hoth   Cordilh'ias,  which   waters,   havint;  no  outlet    to  either 


ocean,  are  (Iisikthcm 


d 


rain 


evaiioratmn 


y  eva] 


lU 


Siiiiiii/,  the   '•  i{(ilson    de    Mapimi.     (ollectin;!;    into  tlm   Lajinna   tl 
strcims  draining.';  many  States,   from   San    Luis   I'ottssi  to  Coahuila,  also 
willeiut  any  outMoiv  to  either  ocean. 

Thiiil.  the  "  Has'ti  of  the  Del  .Norte."  who.se  vast  area  feeds  the  Ilio 
del  .Norte,  the  Conchos  ami  Pecos.  These,  concentrated  into  the  i{io 
(ir.iiide  del  Norte  liehind  the  Sierra  .Madre,  have,  hy  their  united  volume. 


hinsi  ihrou!j;h   it." 


mil    found  an  ontlrl    towards  the    .Vtianlic       T 


^^'coloL'ical  character  of  this  liasin,  its  altitude,  its  ctuitli^uration  and  locality, 
all  as<.ii^ii  it  tliis  pns.iiim,  as  distin<ji;uishine'  it  from  all  others  conlrilnitin;^ 
their  w.iters  to  th"  .\tlantie. 

/•;/i///A,  the  >•  |{asiii  of  the  (ireat  Colorado  of  the  West."  This  im- 
mense !iasin  emitraees  ulinr, ,  the  u-reat  rivers  Hio  \'cii!e  and  IJio  tirande, 
who-.e  confluent  waters,  pein'tralinji  the  miuhly  Cordillera  of  the  Andes 
ath«Mi(  from  hase  to  h.i.se,  disch.iriie  themselves  into  the  dull'  of  Cali- 
I'onii  I  Int.)  this  sulilime  eor;;r  ithe  Ca  m  of  the  Colorado!  tin  human 
eye  li.is  never  ssvi'pt,  for  an  int,  rval  of  .'»7r»  miles:  so  stern  a  chaiacter 
does  Nature  a.ssume  where  such  stupendous  mountains  resist  the  pa.ssa^e 
of  such  miirhty  rivei-s. 


140 


APPfXDlX. 


Fif'li-  llif  ■•  15ii-^iii  "J"  flic  <«rt'ut  Siilt  Lako,"  like  the  Caspian  of  A 


sia. 


|!^lli'! 


cuiitaiiiiii<^  many  small  basins  within  one  ^neat  rim,  and  losin<;  its  scattered 


Walers  liy  cvaiporatimi.  lias  no  outflow  to  either  ocean. 

Si.itli.  the  "  Itasiti  of  the  ('ohnnl)ia,"  lyini;  across  the  northern  ii;n,k» 
1)1'  the  two  last,  and  ;;rand  ahove  them  all  in  position  and  eoiiliMnr:itiiiii. 
Many  great  rivers,  besides  the  tSnake  and  U]ijier  Colnmbia,  diMcml 
from  the  i:reat  an-  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  where  it  circles  towards  the  ikhiIi- 
west  from  the  j:{d  to  llu;  Ttlid  de;^ree,  flowini;  from  east  to  west,  and  lon- 
eentratinj;  above  the  ('nsciiifrs  into  a  single  trunk.  It  here  strikes  the 
mighty  Cnrdillcra  of  lln^  Andes  (narrowed  to  eiie   ridge),  and  disgorges 


il.-iclf  thrnuyh  this  sid)li 


me 


lass  at  once  ii 


ltd  th 


l*aeili( 


It  is  /«/•<,  descending  by  the  grade  of  this  river  t!ie  whole  distance 
from  the  rim  of  the  Valley  of  tin-  .Missi.ssipjii  and  through  the  Andes  te 
the  I'aciiic,  that  the  great  ilihuitvh  of  the  American  continent  towards  the 
west  is  found.  Ihn  will  be  the  pathway  of  future  generations,  a>  the  peoplt' 
uf  the  Old  World  pa.ss  down  tin;  Mediterranean  and  out  by  (iibraltjr. 

Above,  the  "Basin  of  i''razer  l{iver"  Ibrms  a  srnnl/i  of  the  T.nhi.K 
Lands.  This  has  burst  a  canon  through  the  Andes,  and  like  the  fourth 
and  si.vth  basins,  sends  its  watt'is  to  the  I'arilie. 

W'nh  the  gi'igraphy  of  the  mon;  northern  region  we  are  imperlictly 
ac(juainted,  knowing,  however,  thai,  from  I'uget's  Sound  to  I{eliriii.^(t 
Strait,  the  wall  of  the  Andes  forms  the  beach  itself  of  the  I'acilic.  whilst 
the  Sierra  .Ma<lre  forms  the  western  rim  of  the  basins  oi' the  Saskalduwaii 
of  Hudson  Hay  and  the  Athabasca  of  tin-  Arctic  Seas. 

1'hus,  ibeu,  biielly  wt!  arrive  at  this  great  cardinal  departnu'iit  of  the 
geography  of  the  emit inent,  viz.:  TllK  T.\lil,K  ii.v.VDs — being  a  longitudi- 
nal section  (alnuit  two-sevenths  of  its  whole  area) — internicdiatt' between 
the  two  oceans,  but  walled  off  from  Imth,  and  having  but  three  outlets  fur 
its  waters,  viz.,  the  canons  of  the  Hio  (Jraiide,  the  Coloratlo,  aii<l  the 
Columbia. 

Columnar  basalt  forms  the  basement  of  this  whole  region,  and  volcanic 
aeti(Ui  is  everywhere  )iromiiient.  Its  general  level,  ascertained  upon  the 
lakes  oi'  the  different  basins,  is  about  WW)  feet  above  the  sea.  llaiu 
beldo'n  falls,  and  timber  is  rure. 

The  ranges  <if  mountains  which  separate  the  Itasins  are  often  rugged 

hilst  isolated   masses  of  eri'jit   hciiiht 


and  capped  wit''  jierpetual   snow,  w 

el.vate  llieinselMs  from  the  plains.     This  whole  formation  abounds  in  the 

jirccloiis  wrt(i/K.     Such  is  the  region  of  tlii'  Tahi-K  Laniks. 

IJeyond  these  is  the  MAKlTi.MK  region  ;  for  the  great  wall  of  the  Andes, 
receding  I'mm  the  beach  of  the  Pacific,  leaves  belween  itsilf  and  the  sea 
a  hall- valley,  as  it  were,  forming  the  seaboard  slope  from  San  JJiego  to  the 


iIk!  ('ii,s|,ian  of  Asia 
"1  losing  its  .sciuUTcd 

•lie  iiciflicni  fliii.ks 
>ii  and  <(.iilij.riiiiili„ii. 

Collllllliiii,    (IrMcrid 

■M.pvviinls  III,.  ,„„.,i,. 
•^t  t.)  West.  jiihI  ,.„„. 
It  iiciv  .strikrs  III,. 
'.-'■),  ;iii(l  (li.sgdi'Nts 
I'acili.'. 

tllC  wilolc    (ii.st,||;ci. 

ii<Mi-;li  111,.  AiKlfs  |„ 
*'iitiii,.|it  tdUiiids  til,, 
ratitiii.s,  .•i>tli,.]„.,,|,|,. 
"lit  liy  tiiliriilt.ir. 
'■"illl    (>(■  111,.    T.Mll.K 

,  ami  like  tli,.  foiinli 

I  we  arc  iiii|),ifi.,tly 
Smiiid  to  i{,.|irii: /,s 
il"  til,'  l';i,i(ic.  uj.il.st 
of  tile  Sii.skiili  II,  w.iii 

s. 

I  "Ii'iiiirliiiciii  oC  til,. 
— I't'iii.u:  a  loiij;itii,li. 
itcniicdiiit,.  Iictvvifii 
lilt  till-,.,.  oiiil,t,v  t;,r 
Ciilonitlo,  and   lli,. 

•ff-'iiin.  and  volcanj,' 
■i<'<'rtain('d  ii|)oii  di,. 
'Vc  111,,  sea.     lluiii 

!*  aro  oftt.n  ni<r<,'<M! 
it'."*  tif  firi'at,  height 
ion  aixiunds  in  tli,. 

wall  of  111,.  Andes, 
i  it.Htlf  and  tin;  M'a 
1  San  Diogo  to  the 


77/ a;   i'lr/Z/r   It. Ml.  Ill  Y 


141 


StraitH  if  Juan  di  l''iica.  This  is  12<MI  miles  in  Icii'.'th  and  "jrid  Kmad. 
Across  it  disci'iid  to  tiic  Mca  u  wrii's  of  fin,.  riv(.rs,  laiiuin^  fniin  south 
t<)  north,  likr  thf  little  streams  desi'cndini:  from  the  Allci^hanies  lo  iht; 
Athintie. 

These  are  thf  Han  (jahriel,  ihe  Buenaventura,  th<  ."^aii  .loakiin  and 
SaeraifM'nto,  fli«  H<»«^ue,  TIaiiieth,  and  rm(|Ua  livers,  tht  Wallainette  and 
Columtiia    the  (V/wlJtz    Thekalis,  and  V-i-ifiually  of  Pii;rei  .'^..iind 

This  re.icirM**  mA  Mawes  th<  niaritfwy  slop,,  of  tin'  Atlantir  >ii|,.  ,if 
till- loiitineiH  \mt  H  w  taiifly  kirjfer  swp<'»<^i»lly :  of  rtk».  highest  a;rri- 
ctflturKl  ♦'xeptttvtX!,'  Imni^'v  m  i-ztvivjA'^t^x  :  yi^titmA  beyond  (th<'  Jik-wiis  ol' 
deserijiifiof,  »lie  !'(i'.S»'v  ymii*  mA  V<iA*"IW»<«s  <X  flw  Afllles  heio'.  A  .ivwheri- 
visilile  rV"<ii  r|ie  M'A,  'i^viitt  1^  .tHumtt*  >*  eufi>>!f>ly  rx'-m}^  fr<Hi>  the  frosts 
iif  winter. 

.*^u(li.  and  s.>  '/r»n<\.  \^  our  *<'if»rUf*0  f»»#iw»|«  A*  fn^idv.  f,«'t  us  turn 
<i»r  /laiiee  towards  the  Artiwitie  ani4  .Sr^^i^iif  ( h-t^ittm'  aiiel  «',«n  tlie  ;jiiiM:ra|ihy 
in  our  front,  /''imr  jjjreat  vaililey.-*  w^^M  <»:«eh  "it^  dr.iiif't  liy  w  river  of 
tlie  tir-t  ni;ij.'iiinide. 

FiitsT  The  Mississijijij  VaUey,  •ftwiXi-^  in  mut'/uitwlf.  and  nihraeiii}^ 
the  lieart  aij<l  s|.l<  ndor  of  fhi-  eontinenf,  ;.';ffhef>'  <fc*>  r/aters  oi  .'i(IO,(((Mt 
stjiiare  miles  and  i<h<-ds  them  into  lli,.  (iiilf  uf  Mt-x'i^'t 

liil.  Tlie  St.  F<awr<  «ee,  whose  riv,'r  flows  into  flw   Vorth  All     lie. 

.'M.  The  Xel,s<»ii  »nd  Severn  Kivers,  into  iludsoii  K-.^y 

Mil  The  (,'reat  valh  y  of  th.e  M'-Keiisi,'  l{iv,.r,  rusliin^  •'  into  the 
llyjii  cIkh'iih  Sfil. 

These  valley*,  evervwlief.*  ^tthitrrnnti.  have  a  iiniftiiui  sini  lei  .  f^eii'!\ 
rolling,  hut  dcstituf''  of  niouniaiim,  niid  |hi«m  into  ««*<'  inoth«  r  ly  ilivliliioj 
rlihfa.  which  distriliute  its  own  w<''jt*  info  eiu-h  Nut  wh»««H'  superior' 
elevation  is  only  distinjruisliahle  aiiioii^'  the  frenei.u  w  'ihitioiis.  hy  rtt»«» 
water-sheds  which  they  form. 

Around  tlie  whole  eoiitinoist.  foIlowin<r  tli,'  coasts  of  ili.  .-.-lans.  ■)»»  « 
rim  of  mountains,  frivinj^  the  id, 'a  id' a  rnul  (inijtliltlinitri  Throiii;li  this 
rim  jier.etrate  towards  the  s,uith,  cast,  and  north,  tlie  alio\.' ;rreat  rivers 
mill/,  formiii;^' at  their  delioiichcs  the  natural  (Ai'(/'.s  o/'///*  Inti  riur  ;  hut  no 
stream  penetrates  vrst  ihrou^di  the  Sierra  .^Iadre,  which  forms  an  iiii- 
hrokeii  water-shed  from  Majrellan's  to  Hehrinji's  Strait. 

Thus  we  find  more  than  t/irn-jij'tlis  of  our  continent  •  consist  of  a 
limitless  plain,  intersected  liy  countless  n.ivinalile  streams,  flowiiii;  cvcry- 
whvw /mill  the  eireumfereiiee  towards  eoinmon  centres:  u'roiiped  in  dose 
proximity:  and  only  ilivided  l>y  what  connects  them  into  one  homoj^eiieous 
plan. 

To  the  American  petj/le,  then,  bcloii^^s  this  va.st  interior  ."pace,  covered 


1 4 


iiiij 
iiriij 


fr 


i'li! 


Mi 


.1 /•/'/;. \7> /.v. 


iiViT  it«  niiit'nrin  miiImi'i'  i,\'  L'..tlMI, 011(1  >i|n.'iri'  iiiilrs.  willi  tlic  lirlnixt 
ciitciiitiiiiK  Miil :  liiiirliiiijr  llic  hiiiiWM  tdWiirils  llic  lunili,  mikI  iIh'  ii.irid 
Ih'iits  ti>wiii'il>  llir  stiiitli  :  IiiiiiimI  to'.'rllit'r  li_v  iiii  iiitiiiitt'  inli'iii.il  ii;i\i'_ra. 
timi:  <>!' ii  ti'iii|ii'r;iii<  iliniati- :  mikI  ('iiii>(itiitiii!.'.  in  tlic  wlmlc.  iln'  iiin>t 
iniiL'iiirK'cnt  il\viHiii}r-|iliM-f  niiiiki'il  mil  )iv  (Soil  tor  iiiiin's  iiImm|<'. 

.\>    llif    <ii||i|ilrti-    licMfliiriiic   (if  till'    Alliii'.'lilv    Ii;i>    tlllls    i;i\cli    Im   i|,i, 
ciiiitiiiviil,  tin-   ^Tfiil  ii:itiir;il   .iiilli'l>  111"  llic  Mi»«i-«i|,|,i 


III. 


.  iirl"> 


III 


re.  II  •.'I'l'iil   .'irlilicial  iiiiiiiunii'iil.  an  ii'im  ji.tiji. 
\\i  sti  rii  >t'a. 


1(1  llu-  (iiill',  iiiiil  llic  St.   i,a\virncr  *,,;  tlir  Ntiitli  Aliaiilif,  so  is  il  li  I'l  t. 
]>inii«  ai:<l  ^iriililnl  |mii|i|i-.  a|>|>r('iialiiit:  tlii^  uooilncss.  to  constriKl  tliioiijli 
tin-  piiL'i'  oi"  tin'  Sirna  Mail 
a  N ATliiN Al,  HaiUvav  to  tin- 

liri'c  \Vf  |iri'('i'i\ I',  in  till-  Inrnialiiiii  nl'  \hf  Xnii'rican  tMiitini'iil.  a  ~iili- 
linic  siinplitiiy.  a  i  iini|ili'lc  rrnnnniv  of  arrani:<'ini'iit,  ^linLMilai'  In  ii«ilt', 
mill  till'  nvt  i>r  (if  wliat  ilislin;rui.slir>^  tin'  ainii  nl  wmlil,  T.i  iiinh  r-i:iii.l 
tlii^.  lit  ns  t'i>ni|>ari'  llnni. 

I'll  llMl'K.  tlir  >niallr>l  of  the  Miami  ili\i,«ii>n>  nl'  tlic  /<///</,  <-ontaiii»  in  in 
ccntri'.  tin-  uy  mitssfs  of  tin'  Al)>s;  tioni  aroiiinl  tln-ir  ilcdivitii*  ni'/iniii 
llif  Lrj<'  ii\ri>  of  tlial  (niilinriil  :  tin-  l>.iniilit'  ilin-rtly  i-a.-l  I"  ilu- 
I'liixini'.   llir    I'll  ami    Klmni'.  soinli  t"  tin'  Mi'ilitrrraiiciin  ;   tin'   Itliiin' li. 

tlir   Noltllrni  ( )ri'an. 

Wallnl  nil'  liy  llif  Pyrcnci's  ami  ('ar|iatliiaiis,  iliviTLTiit  ami  i^nlalcij. 
iiri'  llir  'ra'Mis,  llif  KMir,  ami  oilnr  >in'_'lt'  rivrr*.  artlmnis  of  the    Maltic. 


I  nil 


till'  Allaiilir.  ibi'  Mi'ili'iriamaii.  ami  llir  KiixiMr. 

IK'Miiiilini:  /';i/)/)  t.>niiiion  imliant  |'ointx.  ami  iliviT;_'iii'^  ivi-ry  way  fi 
(ino  aiioiln'i'.  no  intfi'i'iiniitinniialiciii  exists  iM'twrrn  tlir  rivrrs  of  l'!iini|i<': 
imvipition  i»  l^tty  iiml  ft'«'lili' :  mn-  liavi'  art  ami  roniiiiircf.  ilnrinu'  ni:iii\ 
iTiilwti,*  imrtMi' s<i  iv,,h\  •mall  vall<\-  it  innl'K  i-diitfil  liy  ini|MiM  nalili' 
I 


III 'Hers. 


It'll-  \^i«4l  rat-h  rivir  •!».  |In  „  ili^ilu.  i  |N-«(k'  )lifr('rin;r  fV<  .n  all  lli<' 
nf4  VHt  w«'('.  lllll;J:l|j||^>  Huliits.  itn  I  iiiti'r\>M'>  Tlioii^'li  oHfii  |»>lii1rally 
MUkiiuaiiiiili'il  \<\  <oui|ii«'«t  till  \  .'itfniii  |^*Ia)m«-  iiilti  rrii^nii'lili>.  from  innate 
If) iiiir<i/ifiiiiif  iiiiii/ii  II II  X\\y     hislniv    >i|   ihfse    iiii*!oii<    is   a    dnrv   of 

|><  r|M-ttiiil  nar  ami  mniiial  I'Meiiiiini^Uitit 

Kxa.  (ly  '^iiiiilar  lo  Kmiii|n'.  llioii^lt  c*'«i"ii  i    in  size  ami   |Mi|inhition,  is 

\siA       jV'!!!!  tlii>  K.u|a>M<liiH*  «vitlrui   UtrriiT  iif  tin    Himalayas   inn    ilie 

lour  'jiti*!    ♦ivcm  of  lliiiia    .Itie  •■mf.  t-    *^Iihiv<    ihiin*  Iv.^  ImimmiIi  llir 

ii«:  ■       •«»      <«i»aii|-    He  soulli  inn  tile  y\^<  i-   'f  r<><|ii«  fhiim.  tlie  llaiii.'i"' 

ill!    Im4i|o     low. ml--   llii'  i/>xMKv  livorw  ikf  llic  (\iN|iiaii  ;   ami   north, 

t)«i-<tiit/l    "'iU  lia  to  tile  Arclir  S<'a»,  liiitlix  ii»fr»»  of  lit.   Hr>t  mapiinnlc 

l>nrin^'  fil>y  'i  ninri.s,  a>  now.  lli.-  \l|»s  tnnl  Himalaya  Mniiiilain^ 
huve   |irii\'f«i   iu»u|>i'alili'    lmrru'n<   (n  tho   Mliktl^.uii:ittiiti   of  the   nalioiis 


rUK    I'M'iriC   I! Ml.  MM  )', 


143 


''''•-■  Willi  tl„.  li,.),,,,, 
•  ""i-tli.  :iii<l  ih,.  |,,i,i,| 
itiriir.'  ihtrtn.il   n.ivi.M. 

•ll''     mIicpI,.,    lllr    |||,..,t 

ii.iii'r*  iiImmIi-. 

Il.l'«  tlllls  'z'wvW  I,,  11,4 
l<l>  nC  ||„.  .Mi,.i-,i|,|,j 
l:mtir.  so  is  it   ll  fl  t,,  ;, 

'"    r>ll|>|l||,  t    (l,|nl|_.|, 

iiMiiirnt.  :iii  inui  |.,it||. 
"•■••in  fMiitiiiiiii.  M  -nil. 

Mf.    -illL-llljll     (c.    ii«,i('. 
»"rli|.        Til   llllc|rl-t:;||il 

If  /'(;/./.  rii||t.iill>   ih   ilM 

iiir  (Icclivifits  i;i.li,ii^ 

'iiiiTlIy   (.;,>(    tu    ilii- 

lariiaii  :   tin-   IMii„c  t., 

ivcrpiii   iiiiil   iMiliid'd. 

ffllK'MiS  i.f   (1„.     Mjiiti,., 

•rL'iii-j  i-vcrv  \v,iv  frmn 

till'  i-'MT-  ipf  Kiini|M' : 

miiHTii'.  i|iiiiii._r  iii.'iiiv 

ilaliij  liv  iiii|iiiii  tialilc 

ilifl'.liiiL'  »V.  ,11    all    llir 

"It'll      unni      |M.|il1,;|||y 

'itjtuiuu.  O'.in  iiiiiali' 
i(*.«tiii»   ix  a  xinrv  lit' 

••  mill   |Hi|iiilari<iii,  is 

IlillltllilV.-l.x     Mill     llii' 
■  •111--  Iv.'r*   lirliralll    tile 

ill  Chiiiii.  till'  (iaii<jri'.M 
•  'a»|'iai(  :   ami   imrtli. 
In   fir^t  iiiaj:iiiiiii|iv 
liiiialava    Minintaiii* 
fi'Mi   III"  the   iiatiiiii'- 


ariiuis    tlifir  liases,  ami  ilwi-lliiii:  in  llir  \allrys  wliiili    raiiiatr   iVotii  llu'ir 

.•<lii]i  •>. 

Till  ('.iitiiifiit  III"  Afkica.  as  I'ar  as  wc  kiiuw  llir  ilctails  ui'  its  surt'afc, 
i>.  I'vrii  imu'i'  (liaii  tlicsi',  s|ilit  into  ilisjniiitnl  tVaiiiiimts. 

Tliii>^  ill"'  '"mi""'"'""  "I  '!'♦'' "''  ^V"|■1'1  rrsi'iiilili' a  Imwl  ]ilairil  Imltimi 
ii|i\\.iril-.  wliiili  srattcrs  fVci'ylliiii.L'  |»iiiii'i|  n|iiiii  il,  whilst  Niuriii  KKN 
Amkiiiia.  ri'.;lit  siilc  iiji.  ren-ives  ami  iralluTs  tnwai'ils  its  i-i'iiirr  wliatrNiT 
falls  witliiii  its  rim  ! 

IJi'linlil.  llii'ii.  llir  ^'l  ri  UK  111'  Aiiirrira,  ;^ra\i'ii,  in  llu' iri''ii;'i'a|iliifal  lini's 
ami  ailrrii's  III'  lirr  sMiinnlriral.  iiffaii-liuiinil  i'.\|ianM'I  IJi-lin'.il  it  fmi- 
liilil  in  till'  nrariilar  ]irii|ilii'rii's  nJ'  past  ainl  [irrsriit  |irii;ii'i'.ss. 

In  i;i'ii:;ia|ili_v  llir  niififli' sis  iif  ilii'  Olil  Wmlil,  ill  •:ii.  V  it  will  In-  tin- 
nvii-r.  (fur  Nmlli  Aim'iifa  will  ia]iiilly  attain  li:  .i  .  ilatinii  iijiial- 
liiij;  llial  i»r  till-  rest  iif  tin-  wniM  ciiiiiliiiH'il  :  tiiriniiiir  a  siiiji'  |iiii|ilc, 
iili'iiliral  in  nianiici-s,  lanL'na;j;i'.  rustmns.  ami  iin|Milsi-s :  I'lTsi-rvin;^-  lint 
saiiir  i'i\  ili/atiuii.  tin'  saim-  rcliuinii :  iinliiinl  with  llic  saint'  (i}iiniuns.  and 
liaun;/  llir  same  |iiilitical   lilu'ilirs. 

Of  lliis  wi'  liavc  twii  illiislraliiiiis  iiiiw  nmlir  niir  eye  :  tlu'  imi-  ]iassin<j; 
awav,  till'  iillicr  ailvaiirin'_'.  'I'lif  almri^inal  Imlian  rare,  aimini:  wlniiii. 
ri'iiiii  I'arii'ii  III  till'    Ksi|iiiiiiai<\.  ami  rrnni  I'luriila  In  Vam-niivi'i's    Isiainl, 


I'M 


<ls  a  iii'irrct  iili'iilily  in  llii'ir  liair.  niiii|il('.\iiiii,  li 


alniTs,  staliiri'.  an 


1 


laii;.Miai.'i'.  Ami  stii,ii<l.  in  tin-  iiislim-livi'  rnsiun  intu  mn'  laii;iiia;.'i'  ami 
iiiir  iii'W  ''ari',  lit' itiiini'.^rant  tliTiiians.  KiiL:lisli.  j'ri'in-li,  ami  Spani^li.  wlinsc 
iiiili\  iiliialiiy  is  uliliirratril  in  a  sinuli'  L'l'ni'i'atiim  ! 

Ai  llii-  imiini'iil.  \\w  iiinriliiiii  y »«//;'<//.  |ilanm'il  willi  ilark  ui'iiius.  ami  ]iur- 
siiiil  with  scni|iulous  scltislini'ss.  |ialls  nur  nianli.  Nntliin.:  liiliiml  iis  in 
liisiniy  at  all  rixals  in  ra|iiility  nl'  urowtli.  in  wrallli.  ]iuwrr.  ami  s|ili'iiiliir, 
lliiisi'  Stall's  iiiaskiii;:  llic  sralmanl.  ami  ralli'il  at  liuini'  •■  ///'■  Ohl  Tliirli i  it." 

Jli'Tc  all' cities  (ami  a  ureal  niiinlier  nf  tlnni  snr|iassint;.  at  inie  een- 
tiiry  iilil.  lliuse  III'  a  tliniisaml  years  u|hiii  tlie  nlij  luntinent-- ! 


Till'  Slates  have  swelieil  as  t'ast.      This  ailniiial 


ilr  ;^^l'atnl■^s  IS  line  In  the 


iiia>liry  nt'the  euniinenl  wliieli  ihey  exeni^e  Ky  inajurities  in  the  naliniial 
eiiiineils,  III  the  iiiiineiise  imnine  ni"  leMiine  which  they  thus  iiilli<-t  ami 
Use.  ami  til  their  iminii|iiily  ul'  all  I'nreii:!!  inniiiierei'. 

A  new  ami    riv.il   sealmanl — "  '/    .V'  /'•   Tliirt'i  n" — wniiM  halve  ami   ilis- 


Iriliiile  all  I 


lli'l'iiS: 


ll'  these.       It 


was   /((jv  .>"•< //    liinv   |irii;jTi'ss,  traveilin;.:'  i<  iilriilii/ 


s  lh<>  ciintiiu'iit.  was  striiliiiir  ]iiiint-lilank  tu  this  ciiiisiiininatinn.  To 
rrtanl  this,  imletinitelv.  arn-i'  the  nniii/iiii'  jinfiri/.  invenleil  tiy  suj'histry, 
aiiil  siistaineil  tiy  nieta|ihysiis. 

.^ir.  .letVersiin  haviiiu.  with  i  nnsnniin.ite  |ireseieiice,  ailileil  In  uiir  ilmnain 
the  liiiiiisiaiia  iiiiicluiM' :   llieimist  s]<l,  mliil  jHirtimi  of  the  haliilalile  uluher 


144 


M'/'t:\itix. 


liiiM«-iii'(|  (o  u'i^i'  i(  |iii|iiiliirniii  ami  a  iiiiiriliini'  witi^'  lu  ilic  I'm  itir.  |-)x. 
pldratioiiM  iiii<icr  ('Lirki-  ami  L'wiH,  aii<l  uIImts,  rulliiuril  liy  Anior ^<  i  iiiir- 
]irlm\  »iHUiH\.  fitrh/  j^iiirn  »)in.  Jhc  jrr.at  inriiiiu'rciiil  iniitr  liclwcni  i|i<> 
i»cfaii.«.  >iiic"  .iliiil  ii|i  li_v  llic  iiiiiriliiiii  i>"/ii  I/,  lull  iinw  ri'i>|i<'iii'i|. 

Tlii.-f  Wfic  t  iiii  l»ri|  ami  iivinlirnwii  \i\  llir  ixi^cmir-  nf  liini'iii  war. 
Tliat  iivcr.  flu-  ili.«t'iiMii<i(i  <i('  a  mini'  In  A>ia  wai*  nvivtul  li_v  llir  |iir*s  anil 
ill  ('((ii^rirs.M :  A>i(ir  siiii;.'!ii  tnnn,  w  |ii,«  cnfciiiriwH,  ami  aid  wa«*  iji-iiiaiiilni 
IViim  tin-  uiivci'Mimiil  liv  (III'  |>(ii|ilc  (if  (III  \Vi.«(.  ami  liy  iiairintic  imli. 
\itliiaU  ill  tlif  Ka.>t.  Tlii-  w.is  ri'lum'tl  \i\  t\\i-  yu\'u\  i,\'  i'roi.lciil  Mdiuni* 
ailiiiiiii.Hiratiiiii  ii-  wii.isi  laltiiict  w«Tt'  coiiinimil  Mr.x.Ts,  .1.  if  Ailainv  nf 
Ma.x-'acliiisclt,-'.  aii"l  .1  ('  ( 'alliniin.  of  Sciilli  Carolina — kiiIiiIc  slalom. h 
III'  ilic  iiiii-t  pi'iirlraliiiL'  tiiirsii:lil  ami  llir  !iil'iii>l  aiiiliilinii 

I'liwrr  ('iniL'i°a(>  ■<  a.>«  liim'  mils  dh  TIh'  jh'IiIc  ami  t'aM'iiialinii  nl'  itx 
piissrssiiiii  liii^t-r  Mi|iri'iiii'ly  |Hit)'i.t  in  tlir  Imiiian  lu.irt.  I'mni  tlii«  prii 
tiiuiiil  wmrrp  Iiiim  spriiii^  tlm  niin|iiitalili'  iinnlliiiii  i>i>ll<  i/.  ariaynl  a-iiinM 
the  nianli  nf  pniLTi-fs  ami  'lir  wrsiwanl  iiiiirraliuii  nl'  pnwrr. 

Tile  /'//■»«  (■  Stall'.  Ma."->a<liii>('lt>^.  Iiaii  |ii'ni'lainiri|  a  iialimial  war  iimiiii- 
Hiitiitiiiiial,  ami  iiiilialnl  a(  If.irttiinl  tlu'  pn  |iaraliii'y  plans  (<>  sirtili'  I'rniii 
aiiil  (lis.sulvf  till'  riiinii.  Tlic  /iitti  r,  Smilli  Camliiia,  Iian  (lom-  llir  suni'. 
pmiiiiiimiii;;  till- ;ri'm'ral  pnvirnt' taxatimi  iimiiiisiitiitiniial  in  a  parliriilai' 
i'di'iii ;  ami  nnw  apiiii  appiar  llie  same  ili-raiHul  llinal.x  nl'  "  rnni'  ami 
torrnr.  pmiiniimin^  unmiiilihitiniiiil  a  xpi'i'ilii'  Ic^fislalinii  I'nr  tin-  'I'rrri- 
tnrifs. 

Ifrliinil  till."*  p»rp>ii  nf  iJMrin  (  Xuf/ifltiifinii  I,  ami  iinpfrrrivcij  liy  tin' 
p'tii-rai  iiiiml.  laslii'il  intn  ilisinay  ami  ilislrarlril  liy  "  trrmr  ami  liirri, ' 
tlirratcniii;;  llic  I  nimi,  llir  siilillr  iiinfillim  /m/iri/  lia.s  Ihtii  rivrli'il  i|ii»ii 
Willlill  the  ynllllir  Stales,  llir  pllMir  L'li'lii'  lias  lii'i'li  lii'lil  liv  till'  II  lillal 
pivcrnimiit  ami  witlilnlil  t'min  laxalimi.     Tims  is  Statr  rrviiiiii'  i  lit  nil 

Tllt'.sc  pulilii'    laiuls  al'r  llrlil  at  a    I  \  raliliiral  pi'ii  r.  t  lir    '-aii's    inaili'  ra>li 
ilniiatiniis    III'    liniiii'.strail    rights,    pii'-i'iiiptinii.   anil    u'i'ailiiatinn    itI'ii-i  i| 
Savages,  cjii'ti'd  I'rniii  the  nliirr  States,  lia' c   lieeii  liniiL'lil  up  ami  plaiiinl 
118  a  wall  alniii;  the  western  t'lniilier  ami  aemss  tlie  line  nl' pm^ress.    TIiim' 
are  nietapliysieally  ealleil  1'nreii.rii  nalimis. 

Heeelllly  there  lias  lieell  yiveli  In  the  .snliliers  nt'tlle  liatinll  a   linlllilS   nf 
81UII  ill  niuiiey,  nr  9-*HI  in  lami       This  is  leuislative  ileelariilimi  that  tin 
Jiiiee  is  I  (Ml  per  eeiit.  alMive  tlieir  hij.'liest  value. 

The  revt  lis.  i|  frmn  ihe  iii.sinms  is  i  nllieteil  at  the  seapiirfs,  where 

the  expenses  nt'  enlleillnli  ai'e  ilislilll'seil.  Tin  heav  \  part  nl'  this  I'eVelillr 
is  paid  liy  the  a^ri'  iiltiiristsnt'the  West,  wlm  are  theeniisiiliiers.  ^.'t.tllKi mill 
uniiiially  ni'direet  land  revenue  i>  exiiii-ivris  paid  liy  these  latter. 

Itiit  where  is  this  splendid  imnim   ..I    >i  in  iiiiii  nun.  ihiis  levied  I'nr  ili. 


Tin:  I'Aiinr  ii  \ii  ir.i  )■. 


11." 


'  iIk'  I';m  ifi,.  |.;,. 
'I  liv  AMrm  s  ,(,(,.,. 
r'"i(i'  lii'tuiih  i|„, 

l'l'ri|M'lll'l|. 

''-  "f  ('ini.;!!  \\,,f 

'I  f'V  lllf  fill  «.  ^iinl 

I    li'l  Mils  ■I.'||i:iim|,,| 

I    I'V   I'ilUi.itii'    iiiilj. 

I'li'.-iili'Ml  Mmiioi. .i 
r".  .1.  iy  Acliiiii-  ..f 
Mllillc  st:ili«iii,.|| 
liiiori. 

kI     til.siilllllillll    nf    i|« 

"It  I'lHlll      lllj.     |„,, 

/'■','/,  iirnivcd  ii;:;iii|,| 
|"i\vir. 

riMliiiiiiil  Will-  iiiiK.ii. 
pl;iiis  rii  >cc(i|c  (Viiiii 

llil"^    ilnlic  (lie  "iiliif, 

ioiiiil  ill  a  |iiii'tiriiliir 
h'litM  (iC  "  fiiriT  mill 
aliiiii  I'm-  ilir  T.iri 

iiii|ii'iiii\<i|  |.\  ill,' 
'•  tfrnu-  mill  llnir, ' 
1  Imtii  riviii'il  duuii 

Inlil   liy  llii'  ci-nrnil 
\U'  li'Vrlillc  cut  nil. 
Im'  wiIcm  inailc  iii.li 
.'riKJiiiiliiiii    nrii'-Ki 
I'-'lil  ii|>  anil  |ihiiiiM| 

I'l' |priii.>-iT».    TliiHi' 

IIIKinll  a   liiiUlil\   i.r 

lt'<-lariiliiiii  thai   iIm 
til*'  H'a|M<rts,  will  n 

iirl    111     llli>.   ITVrllllr 

■iiiiKTM.  is:t,oii(i  (Mill 

In  >!•  latlii- 

iliiiK  U'vittl  liir  ill.' 


niii-t  |iarl  fVi'iii  Wi'.-'lcrii  imliistry,  ('X|icni|i'i|  V  To  tin-  imvy  i«  lirvnioil 
^Itiinit.iHM)  (all  ii|Miii  tin-  tiili'-watcrs  nt'  tin-  firaltimnl ).  Tn  the  civil  lixt 
g,*)  iMiil.iliM)  — all  ihirr  al.mi.  To  ninhnnril  iiii|ii°iivi'iiiciit'<,  viz.:  ni»loiii- 
liiiii-.*,  iiiiiit.x,  liirlioiw.  Itrcal  •'••itci^,  roililiiatioii^,  navy  yanl.-*,  Ii;:lil  iioimci*, 
nii>i  <iirvcy.  |ioMl  oDicci,  iirinori(!.H,  etc.,  92.ri(Ml,tM)i).      .\||  this  tiHi  it  ii|m>ii 

till'     //'/(      //!//<   I\ 

To  tlic  army  ?r»,(MMt,(»(HI — -tliJ!*  i«  rx|iiniliil  mi  ii  inililary  arailiiiiy,  onl- 
iiiiiiri'  I'lMiinlri.M,  I'oiir  ariillcry  regiment;*,  cuijinccirs — nil  ti]Hin  \\\v  >.i<ili<niril. 
Tim  it  i-*  ili:it  a  few  Htiii^y  ilrtail«  nl'  cavalry  ami  infantry  arc  ]M<-tci|  in 
Nhaiitii"4  ii|Miii  tlic  Western  frniiticr,  and  a  larp'.".'<  of  liall'  a  niillinii  xiwid 


fiiiinii':  the 


I  ml 


laiis. 


lint   llic  Hiii'di'  foitrcf.«  III'      (lid    I'oini  ('onilort 


lia.x  n»i  more  lliiin  (!ie  itiini  total  of  Wcitci'ii  military  nlriictiirc^. 

Tims  do  we  collie  at  one  cardiniii  item  of  iiiniiiiiiii  |io\ver^^lO,lHtl),<Mltl 
niliiitid  annnally  from  tliirly  Staler*,  of  wliiili  8;i!).iMMi.tMlu  i<.  aiinmilly 
liiiid  out  to  ihirliiii  null/!  Such  i>  the  inrniin  which  iii'iritiiiif  fni/iri/ 
sciiiris  to  if.-iclJ"  liy  taxation. 

riirihcr,  the  forei<_'n  cx|Htrtt4  and  inijHirtM  amount  to  8:t>*><).IMM),iMl0  |mt 
iiiiniiin — every  |Miiiiid  of  tluM  leaves  mir  Nhorcx  or  coiiic;*  to  u^  in  tlieitlii|iM 
iif  these  iiinritiiiir  StnfiH,  and  in  ^l^lrel|  al  their  .•«ea|M)rls,  To  tlieiii.  tlieii, 
licli'iius  the  com|i|cte  and  |iriidi^'ioiis  iii(piio|Hi|y  of  ilie  carryiii.'  trade  of 
Aiacrica  ! 

I«  ii  wonderful,  then,  that  a  jMiJicy  should  have  liecii  |iii.jci  i.d  with 
liiroi^lit  ami  |iiirsuei|  with  olwtinale  will,  to  preserve  to  Un  |>ii>.s<  >.«ont  an 
iiH'oine  so  s|ilendid,  and  a  moiio|>oly  of  such   infinite  |irotit  ?     With  thexc< 

iiiiiriliiiii   StatcH,  loo,  rests  the  |iolilical  lii:i«tciy  of  lh< litiliclil      liccuus*- 

they  have  tw  yet  ulwayH  had  the  inajorily  of  the  Ijoiiscs  of  Conpri  "s,  nnd 
still  retain  that  in  the  lluiise  of  HepresentalivcM.  in  i«|iii(>  of  the  acce.-sion 
III'  Ti  vas,  Iowa,  and  Wisconsin,  which  have  changed  tlie  I^ciia'c. 

Ii  i-  the  decennial  census  of  Js.'id  which  will  >;ive  in  the  thirty-third 
('iiuuresM  a  majority  to  this  ;:reiit  i:idi<.'enoiis  Amerieaii  |M-ople.  residiii)< 
within  the  mountains,  in  the  ^reat  haHiiiH  of  the  euiitinetit.  To  them  will 
liclmc  the  glorious  task  lo  u'ive  to  the  piiMic  doin.'iin  its  true,  patriotic 


ll-c 


and  root  out  the  scorcliiii)^  tyraniiv.  of  which  i;  is  imw  the  cn;.'i 


lie 


lo  ma 
HiiH'iit;  the 


ke  taxation  and  the  expenditures  of  revenue  national  and  einial 


Htat« 


It  and  peop 


le.    T 


II  pay,  not  ^rind,  tho  pioiie< 


(iial 
i-n*.    To  revenw 


till'  u>c<<  iif  the  national  wilderness,  so  that  it.t 'jlelic -hall  he  the  lieiicficenf 
Iniiiitaiii  ot   ^reat  roads,  iinliiiiiled  ii^riciiltiirc  population,  eifiiiiiiivcc.  and 


./.    T 


o  rn-iili- 


riili  ."^lates.       In  ifii'f  iiA  niuntnni'  nni/ri/,  miil  n  iinr  lUiiliimn 

cilc  the  white  man  and  the   Indian,  now  kept  l>y  infainoii.H  Iuwh  in  a  si  ite 

of  iiiiplaealile  feiids  and  mutual  piracy. 

Il  is  Very  vviekcil  that  our  ^'ivcriimciit.  Ii  iiij:  repultlican.  hiw  ravislied 

I  ) 


II' 


lie 


AflhXIUX. 


ri'](iil)lit'iin  lilicrly  ami  linlils  iVnin  the  liulian,  Mini  ri'-ciiacttil  iiir  lii-  race 
all  tlu'  (xlimis  iii('(|iialitu<s  ami  iiiiiircssioii,"  tA' /iio/n/ifi/. 

'i'llf  set    |ilir|Mi.sf  ul" ///(//vV/;/)/    y«(//Vy  to   crUMll    pPi^'lTRS  (IfVclopcil   its<'lt' 


with  tlic  ailini 


II   into  till'  I'liiiiii  of  Mi.-soiiri.  a  State  licvmiil   lln'  Mi 


>.sili|ii,  ami  Kiili) III  ii|ion  liic  loiitcs  ami  riM-is  towards  tlic  I'aiilic 
A  wall  of  liiiliaiis  was  |ilaiit('il  aloii<;  the  IVoiiticr  troin  tin'  .Mi»<.iui  tn 


till'  Kcd    lliviT.      Thcsi!  j'orftijn   im/ii 


Wt 


I'c   |ilaiili'il   ii|ioii   Soil  wliii'h 


tlicy  foi 


ilil   Hot   Sill.      CoiiiiiKi'i 


•<i  was  |> 


iti'ii. 


ami  t  ii<< 


whit 


t'  III. Ill  t'lir- 


liiiliK;ii  ciitram-i;  iimlcr  jiciiitiiiliary  itii]irisoiiiiu-iit.  Tin-  army.  it>  ijutii'i 
ifVcrscd,  was  withdrawn  lioiii  daiipr,  and  |ilaiit«!d  on  lliu  linn  to  liayniu't 
hack  till!  |ii(>niM'r». 

|{y  thcsi!  nrl'arious  so|ihi>tri<'S  it  was  drsi;iiiiMl  to  fonrr  mi-oss  the 
jtioiiiir  iiniii/  ill  J'lniil.  lliish-inoni'y  to  tin-  amount  ol' !?>."», (MM(, ((oil  was 
jiaiil  to  p't  ihi'sc  Indians  ont  ol"  tin-  oldir  'latos  for  llu'  use  of  tin-  IVdii- 
tiiT.  Ill  comliiiiation  with  this  it  was  iii'n>sary  to  j:ain  a  ni'in'tiiin  ix- 
tttnsioii,  and  tin;  national  ]inrs(MVas  opi-iu'd.    A  roiijili- of  thoiisaml  Indians 


wci'i!  ilisi-ovcri'd  ;:i  ilu' 


irkct  ol' I'last   Florida — tlm  Sfininoli's  and  .Nlirkii 


iU 


sukics. 


Trti  years  of"  Icrrihli-  war,  diiriiiir  wliirh  l(((t,tMM(  military  riiii;^iaiit,'< 
and  $ir),(M)(l.tl(MI  had  su]>|ilii'd  the  material  of  a  State  to  halaiiee  .Miilii- 
|j:an,  hnniuht   ahoiit  a  treaty  allowing::  iho.se  trilies  to  remain  ammiu  tlii! 


'iVer.laili 


i>iiriii'j;  this  time  Indian  itiraeies  swarmed  over  the  (i 


/'A, 


iiiK  and   ii|ion   the  ciiniim 


ri'ial   roads  In  Mexieo  ami    the  nioiinlai 


llii. 


Many  hundred  whiles  and  iiiniimerahle  Indians  tell  heneath  the  Imiia- 
liiiwk.  I'roteetioii.  military  poliee,  and  reveiijre  were  denied  at  \\'a>irnit;- 
ton  Not  a  dollar  was  //(■/■<■  disjpo.sahle,  lor  the.se  terrors  ufthe  wilderiii',>s 
heljied  the  [loliey  which  kept  it  so. 


Th 


e  rritiiiit.iiitiiiii  ol'  Texas  was  eoiisumnjated 


Th 


IS  wa.s  a  mil  nil  mi' 


Slate,  extendiii'.c  the  shell  of  maritime  inl'.uenee  farther  round  the  conti- 


nent. 


I  exa.s    o'red    (U 


■l.t.s 


-some 


.tllMI.IKI. 


Ill 


er   jiiihlii 


lami 


Were 


s|iecious]y  Idl  to  her  to  pay  thoin — liOS,IMMI,U(MI  of  aenv*,  hy  valuatio 
8li(;(l,(IO(l,OI(0,  to.jiay  87,(1011,0011  of  dehtw! 


Is   it.  then,  hy  chaiiee  or  hy  desi;.'n   that   the  ^reat  domain   is  t 


O    olll! 


State  the  source  of  inijierial   revenues  and  advancement,  to  another  of 


•t   ]•:> 


xjiress  Jaws 


of  C 


oujircsrt  proi 


luce    these   ex- 


povorty  and  repression 
trenies. 

To  understand  this  rijrlitly,  let  us  exaniiiio  it.  The  soil  of  Missouri  is 
held,  until  sold,  at  §1.;^.')  per  acre  hy  the  central  ;:^overnment.  At  present 
.?(1(M(,000  iier  annum  is  extracted  in  siieeic  throu'di  the  land  ofliei;s.    Thii.s 


are  we  in 


ipoverished.     Two-thirds  of  our  soil  is  withheld  from  State  taxa- 


tion. 


.\>  real  estate  is  the  suhslaiitial  source  of  Statt:  revi 


eiiue,  no  pu 


77/ a;  iwr/yir  umi.wa  r. 


147 


»'-cnii(t(  (I  lor  |,i,  raee 

n-ss  (lcvclii|M.,|   i(s(.|c 
lie  l)fViiiii|   ill,'  .^|j5. 
'If*  lllr    Tarili,-. 

('mill  i||(.  .>|i»,,iiii  to 

I'll     M|M.||     suil    w||i,.|| 

'i"  white  III. Ill  i;,,.. 

'I'll"  ill-Ill^',   its  ,|„ti,,, 
II   tin-  line  lu  lM\,,|„.t 

In    fflK-i-    ;,i|(i>,s    lli^ 

I  "I' J?>^.'»,()(Hl,()(»o  was 

■  111''  use  (if  the  lioli- 
pilll  :i   iiuiiifiiiii    ex- 

"t'lllClUS:||„i      ||„||;„„ 

Niiiiimli'waiKl  .Mickii- 

II  niilitarv  r>iiiL;r,iiils 

tf    In  li.llillicc    Mitlii- 

'»  rciiiiiiii  iiiii.,i|M   ill,. 

rillcil  riVcr    till'    (I'inif 

anil  till'  iiiiiiiniMiii.'s. 
I  lii'iicatli  tlic  tiiiiiii- 
•  tlciiiwl  at  Wa.sliiiiir. 
•i>rs  111' tile  wildtTiicss 

riiis  wa.i  a  iiiiniilinr 

liiT  niiiiid  till'  niiiii- 

■  piililic   lands   wiiv 

acii^s,   liy  vaiiialidii 

t  domain    is  ti^  t<\w 

ipnt,  to  aiitiilirr  .if 

I'liidiicr    llirsc   (x- 

e  soil  of  .Missouri  is 
'iinicnt.  At  prcKi'nt 
1'  land  (ifliccs.  Thus 
'Id  I'roiii  Slate  taxa- 
!  rovcnui',  no  imliliu 


i'!iti'r|iris4's, 
lii:;li\vavs  am 


nil 


p'olo^rifal  surveys,  im  internal    iiii|iruvi>iiH-iil»,  not  evi-n 


I  l.ri.k 


res.  are  jmssilile  in  .'lissoiin 


Mi 


(liir  insi;rnitieant  State  and  eoiinty  revenues  fall  with  <tn«>n>us  veiirht 
uiHiM  li'ss  than  one-third  of  the  '_rlelie  lands.  ii|Hin  |MTx>n:il  [>n>|«Tlv.  :iihI 
lireiises.  The  ilisastMiis  wreek  siiH'eri'd  !>}  .Mi.'vi.s.-iiiiii,  Illinui*.  and  <'tlur 
new  Stiiti's  is  jiroof  enou^di  of  ilii.s. 

jli.w  is  this  n'verst'd  in  Tc.vxs?  An  immense  domain  fill.-  her  tn-si.Miry 
— she  ta.ves  and  sells  for  ta.xes  at  will — unlimited  enilit   and   nr««iun-«-<» 

ill'  her  to  enlist riii't   the  i^i'eatest  Works,  witlmul  daiiu'er.      |{v  r«-<iiteiii<,; 


iiiv 
am 


1  u'raduatiii':  the  jirieeof  luiids,  she  invites  fortli  tlii>:iurieiiliuri>t>  oftiur 
States,  and  Warps  |)i'o;:re.ss  towards  llie(iulf.  Un  tlie  |ile<lt:«  ••(' her  puMic 
lands  she  may  herself  almie   |iroeure  means  to  eniiotruet  a  niilnad  !<■  the 


Paiilii 


-Vero.ss    the    western    frontier    is    uiii>l>siruete<l    :iev»-^«    to    lh< 


8,111)11,111(1)  of  Mexieans !       Il'.^/f //t  enmiiieree.  then,  wallitl   in  :iiid  nuidi 


jiiraey 


in  Missouri,  crushed  and  |iei-seeut«'d 


mill 


*t  miirratc  ht-iiiv  to  TfXsi 


Airain,  war  with  .Me.\i(ii  ainse.  This  was  a  land  war  of  aniii<-s.  U- 
tweeii  nations  haviiiir  :i  eunimitn  frontier  of  many  thousand  niil<-s.  A 
siiij.de  Ameriean  army  of  ill), 1)01)  eavalry  uinl  !lyin;r  artillery.  niari-hin<;  hy 
the  iiiajrniKeeiit  roiid  from  Fort  Ij4>jiven worth,  {ta-ssin;;  Ky  the  ::7i>sit  laldc* 
laiiil-  !'  ''m  .  Iiy  i.f  .^Il•xieo.  and  sultsistinir  tlu-ir  animals  of  I"-*!  and 
transportation  u|ioii  the  pa.stiires,  would  have  eoni|Uen-<l  and  held  all  llie 
.Me.xieaii  St;ites  in  eijrhteeti  months. 

Flirty  millions  of  expenditure  would  have  hrou<:ht  ii^-aei-  on  our  <i«rn 
ilii'tatioii — trre:rl  roads  fur  eoiiinieree  would  have  Ix-eii  estalili«he«l  fon*v«-r. 
and  the  disliiirsemeiits  returned  to  us  in  the  ledetj  territury.  A  war  thus 
tTiinomifiif/i/  eondiicted.  liowever.  would  have  o|k'IkiI  the  aveiiue  and 
jilaiiled  eeliti..!  States  to  the  new  seahoard. 

Hut  fleets  of  lmis|iorls  must  plow  the  (iiilf.  and  the  niariliiiie  ."^tatt-s 
of  ,/iiriiitii  and  Sirrrii  Mmlri-  extend  to  einliraee  Tampim.  <  Mie  huiidre*! 
thousand  soldiei-s  were  sent  to  the  impnutiealile  eiiinine«-  hy  Sahilhi  and 
Piitosi — one  hundred  millions  exjiended  upon  this  army,  whieh.  si.iiriialiii'.: 
upiiii  the  wateix  of  the  Hio  (Jraiide.  never  pass*-)!  iM-ynrwl  them:  for 
Saltillo  is  upon  an  affluent  <if  the  Itio  (iraiide.  and  ••nly  -■***  mih-s  from 
its  main  hank.  Thus  was  pioflij^ately  re-inaeted  tlie  •Irutua  of  the  State 
of  Florida. 

The  niiirltinir  pof in/ hhuth  tlie  doiiltle  ohjeet  of  Mocking  np  the  inte- 
rior, and  extendinir  the  sealmard  in  a  shell  around  th«'  ointinent.  For 
this  the  navy  is  enormously  iiureased  and  the  army  enutseulate"!.  F'nter- 
jirisis  in  tlie  mi/nil  States  Jire  marred,  hut  thoe<€  of  the  ttahntnl  siis- 
tained  directly  from  the  National  Treasury.  Of  this  let  us  lake  a  retvnl 
illustration. 


o^if 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


m  iiiiiM 


1^' 


2.2 


I.I 


Hi 


u& 


2.0 


1.8 


1.25      1.4      1.6 

■• 6"     

► 

Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


*  m     M 

^^     ,%°  MP.. 


,0      % 


<? 


# 


&»/ 


d 


\ 


I'lr ii 


,,,;i|  ^M■'■"' 
l!'    ill:  I  '!      1 

i 


148 


M'PEXDIX. 


A  jirnpn,.iti(m  was  sulmiittcd  to  tlu:  Twi'iity-iiiiitli  Coiijrros.-,  early  in  its 
first  session  (1845— Kl)  to  carry  omvanl  to  tlio  coast  of  California  and 
Oregon,  and  to  Santa  Fo,  iiioiitJili/,  tlu;  mail  wliidi  comes  tri-woekly  to 
onr  city  of  Indci^endcnco. 

A  law  antliori/.in<i'  the  I'ostnnistcr-Genoral  to  let  tlie  contract  for  such 
an  extended  mail-route  to  the  lowest  bidder,  in  the  ordinary  way,  was 
alone  required.  Contractors  were  ready  to  execute  the  whole  undertakinj; 
for  S')<>,<MI(I  jier  annum,  carryinir  the  mails  in  fiftctn  d(i)js,  making  the 
time  from  ocean  to  ocean  tirriity-fn-f  days. 

This  proposition,  admirahle  for  its  practicahility,  its  economy  in  time 
and  cost,  was  belabored  by  orators  and  supjjressed.  To  this  hour  all  ovcr- 
hind  mails  are  prohibited  b}'  statute. 

At  this  same  session  of  this  same  Congress,  and  under  tlie  prom])tinus 
of  these  orators,  the  government  was,  liy  statute,  made  tlic  partner  with 
ship-building  companies  of  New  York  City.  To  construct  four  mail 
steamers,  the  sum  of  81,250,(100  was  ndvniiccd  to  these  companies,  to 
whom  was  also  given  the  monojioly  of  future  government  transportation 
for  ten  j-ears. 

The  transportation  of  oc?'  mails  through  the  Isthmus  is  confided  to  the 
Spnninnh  of  New  Granada  !  All  this  enormous  expenditure  lias  pro- 
duced at  the  end  of  four  years,  an  uncertain  monthly  mail,  outs'ule  of  our 
country  :  and  exposed  to  the  hostilities  of  tlie  whole  world  :  wliich  trav- 
erses 9000  miles  of  sterile  ocean  in  fifty  days !  In  the  interval  the  con- 
ti'iicts  have  been  doubled  in  amount  by  doubling  the  size  and  cost  of  the 
ships.  It  is  a  condition  of  these  contracts  that  these  "  mail  steamers" 
may  Iie  apjiraised  and  purclias(id  by  government  fir  tlie  navy.  Thus  is 
the  navy  ehindesthieli/  increased  by  eight  or  a  dozen  war  steamers. 

Thus,  whilst  we  may  transport  the  domestic  mails  between  our  distant 
jieojile  and  seaiioards  through  the  heart  of  our  territories,  every  inch  u|ioii 
our  own  soil,  and  1000  miles  iroiii  any  I'oreign  foe  or  frontier — whilst  this 
can  be  done  and  is  offered  to  be  done,  li'y  our  citizens,  for  jirices  at  which 
the  mails  will  yield  remunerating  revenues — whilst  this  admits  of  an  in- 
crease to  daily  mails  at  any  time,  and  a  reduction  of  time  to  one-half — 
wiiilst  this  allows  of  innumerable  way  mails,  telegraphs,  and  the  most 
intimate  dnniestic  intercourse — involves  neither  increase  of  military  force 
nor  expenditures  }iy  sea  or  land,  and  avoids  the  jxissibility  of  foreign  inter- 
ference or  molestation — opening  roads  and  crowding  them  with  ]iopulation 
and  settlements — concentiating  to  the  seaport  where  it  ri'aches  the  Pacific, 
the  American  shijipiiig  an<l  business  on  that  ocean,  at  once  creating  a  great 
American  em]ioriuni. 

Instead  of  ail  this,  which  is  sensible  .iiid  natural,  and  understood  by  our 


THE   PACIFIC  RAIL  WAY. 


U9 


til  CV)ii<nvs>,  ciirly  ill  its 
c'Dii.st  of  t'alifiinii;!  jinj 
icli  fonu's  tri-wooklv  tu 

ct  tlio  coiitriict  for  such 
tlio  (ii'tliiiiiry  w;iy.  wiis 
tlio  wlidk'  iiiHlcrtiikliiir 

iftiin  ddijs,  iiiiikiiiy  tliu 

ity,  its  cc'OHoniy  in  time 
To  tliis  hour  till  ovcr- 

1  iiii(h'r  the  proni]itiiii;s 
iiiiido  the  j)artn('r  with 

To  construct  four  iiniil 
to  tlii'sc  companies,  to 

rcrnnicnt  tninsportatinn 

thnius  is  confided  to  the 

s  expenditure  lias  pro- 
thly  mail,  oiifsfur  of  our 
hole  world  :  wliicli  trav- 
In  the  interval   tlie  coii- 

the  size  and  cost  of  the 
:  these  "  mail  steamers" 

for  tlie  navy.     Thus  is 
en  war  steamers, 
laiis  between  our  distant 
ritories,  every  inch  ujion 

or  frontier — whilst  this 
;ens.  f(*r  jiriccs  at  which 
st  this  admits  of  an  iii- 
II  of  time  to  one-halC — 
Icjiraphs,  and  the  most 
icrease  of  Tiiilitary  force 
•sihility  of  ioreii:!)  iiiter- 
1,1:  them  with  jiopuiatioii 
•e  it  ri'aches  the  Pacific, 

at  once  creating  a  great 

,  and  understood  by  our 


people,  whoso  cirnliiKif  n'l/Iif  it  is  to  have  the  circulation  of  thi'ir  domestic 
thoughts  and  business  tlirouuh  home  channels  which  are  short,  safe,  and 


cxpci 


litioiis 


Yes.   instead   of  this,   we  are  ta.xeil 


mill 


ions. 


to  hi 


ive  our 


letters  sent  'JOdU  miles  in  fifty  days,  under  the  ecpiator,  by  sea,  tliroiit;h 
i'divimi  nations:  exposed  to  delay,  dangers,  and  destruction  in  t'Very  form, 
ruffliiiii'  the  jealousies  of  rival  nations,  and  exposed  to  their  cannon — and 
all  this  to  fill  the  maws  of  maritime  speculators  and  political  ambition. 

Such  are  a  tew  examples  of  a  Jiolicy  hourly  influencinu  our  u'lorious 
State  for  weal  or  woe,  whoso  efloct  upon  you,  my  fellow-citizens,  fills  mo 
with  the  most  puzzling'  astonishment.  You  drop  your  own  interests  with 
facility  when  fold  they  are  difficult  and  inexjiedient,  ami  stand  at  ease, 
whilst  rival  enterjirises,  planned  to  destroy  yuu,  and  a  thousand  times 
more  difficult,  costly,  and  faiieifid,  are  finished  comjiletely  ! 

Mr.  Chairman,  elo(|uenec  is  not  nurtured  in  the  depths  of  the  silent 
wikloriiess,  and  t/iirr  have  I  jiassed  my  youth.  J)id  [  possess  tho.sc  graces 
of  language  and  ])olished  elocution,  which  many  youths,  my  cotem[)o- 
raries,  trained  in  the  court.s  and  halls  of  legislation,  ought  to  do,  then 
should  my  voice  .sound,  like  the  nipinl  beat  on  .John  do  Zitzka's  skin, 
into  every  cabin  of  our  glorious  State;  to  call  forth  her  citizens,  and, 
roused  from  their  ignoble  ajiathy,  animate  them  to  resume  their  stolen 
rights  and  vindicate  their  crippled  honor.  l-'or  this  a))atliy  is,  towards 
tliis  our  State  and  our  nation,  the  crime  of  the  sentinel  slumbering  on  his 
post. 

The  configuration  of  the  Sierra  Madre  {the  Mothir  Mountdin  of  the 
wofhl)  is  transceudently  massive  and  sublime.  Rising  from  a.  base- 
ment whose  roots  spread  out  two  thousand  miles  and  more ;  its  crest  splits 
almost  centrally  the  Xorthorn  continent,  and  divides  its  waters  to  the  two 
oceans. 

Xovcl  terms  have  been  introduced  to  define  its  characteristics.  Mrxn, 
expresses  the  level  plateaux  of  its  summits,  Cdnon,  the  gorges  rent  in 
its  slopes  by  the  descending  rivers.  Bute,  the  conical  mountains  isolated 
and  trimmed  into  synunetrical  ])eaks  by  atmospheric  corrosion. 

Everybody  has  seen  the  card-houses  built  by  children  in  the  nursery. 
Suppose  three  of  these  in  a  row,  having  a  seciuid  sfiu'v  over  the  ctMitn^: 
this  toy  familiarly  delineates  a  transverse  section  of  the  Sierra  ^Fadre. 
This  upper  story  represents  the  central.  ]irimary  mesa  of  the  Cordillera — 
its  .summit  a  great  plain,  descending  on  both  flanks  by  a  perpendicular 
wall  of  6000  feet  to  the  level  of  the  xeco)iil  Diexn  or  stei>pe. 

Towards  the  wext  the  second  mesa  fills  the  whole  space  to  the  Andes, 
who.se  farther  side  descends  abrn])tly  to  the  tide-level  of  the  Pacific.  This 
is  again  what  has  been  before  described  at  length  as  the  (^iHE.\T  Tahle 


150 


.■1  Pi'Kxnix. 


'  I'll 
I'll 


3*  ^'1 


V'  '! 


Lands.     But  towarJ.s  tlio  Ktaf,  tlio  .second  ?«ts«  forms  a  piedmont,  rent 
into  peaks  by  tlie  tis.sures  of  innunievable  streams. 

Tliis  piedmont,  ealled  \>y  us  the  lilaek  Ilills,  masks  the  front  of  tlie 
■Sierra  Madre,  from  end  to  end.  So  completely  is  it  torn  and  rent  by  the 
perplexity  of  water-eour.ses,  that  patches  alone  are  left  to  define  tlie  orij;i- 
nal  idateau.  These  are  the  eastern  envelope  of  the  basin  of  the  Yellow- 
stiine,  the  Jiaramie  plain  (between  the  I'lattes),  the  llatone,  and  the  Llaun 
Estaeado  of  Texas. 

Beneath  this  tlie  fliinl  nicsti  (or  t-tej)pe),  is  that  superlative  renion,  tlic 
Great  rKAiuiK  Plains,  who.se  gentle  sIojh'  forms  a  glacis  to  the  Gulf 
through  Texas:  and  in  front  to  the  trough  formed  by  the  Mississippi 
River  I'rom  Itasca  Jiake  to  the  IJalize.  Neither  are  the  other  three  basins 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  Hudson  Bay,  and  Athaba.sca  anything  else  but  pro- 
longations of  this  siima  gliii  IK,  sloping  towards  the  east  and  north. 

It  is  this  vastness  of  geographical  configuration  which  leads  the  (/Iniire 
of  the  engineer  with  unerring  certainty  to  that  line  of  natural  grades  from 
ocean  to  ocean,  the  discovery  of  which  mankind  now  awaits  with  the  keen- 
est curiosity,  and  along  which  the  American  nation  is  resolved  to  construct 
the  consummate  work  of  art — fJie  Asinfic  mid  Eiimpiiiii  Rm'fiai//. 

Advanciu"-  north  alonji'  the  comb  of  the  Sierra  ^ladre  from  below 
31exico,  you  find  at  the  sources  of  the  Platte  (Sweetwater)  a  wide  gap, 
where,  tlie  liigh  me.sa  suddenly  giving  out  for  the  sjiace  of  forty  miles, 
the  second  mesa  jtasses  through  from  east  to  west,  the  continued  water- 
ridge  being  scarctdy  perceptible  among  its  gentle  undulations. 

This  is  the  SoiTli  Pas.s.  It  is  so  named  as  being  the  lufinf  soiifJicni 
pass  to  ivhich  you  mav  ascend  by  an  affluent  of  the  Atlantic  and  step 
immediately  over  on  to  a  stream  descending  directly  to  the  Pacific.  This 
name  is  as  ancient  as  the  pass  itself 

Into  it  concentrate  the  great  trails  of  the  buffalo,  geographers  and  road 
makers  by  instinct,  before  the  coming  of  man.  The  Indian,  the  Mexican. 
and  the  American,  succcs.sors  of  one  another,  liave  not  improved  or  de- 
fiected  from  the  instincts  of  the  buffalo,  nor  will  they  whilst  the  moun- 
tains last  in  their  j)resent  inisliattered  bulk. 

The  South  Pass  has  a  towering  grandeur,  in  keeping  with  the  rivers 
between  which  it  i.s  the  avenue  (the  Missouri,  the  Colorado,  and  the 
Columbia),  all  of  which,  issuing  from  the  wall  of  the  "Wind  Biver  Moun- 
tain, come  out  of  it  on  to  the  second  mesa,  (if  tlir  xmiir  /rrrl,  and  into 
which  they  immediately  commence  burrowing  their  canons  of  descent  to 
the  seas. 

Ifin,  thru,  is  the  route,  the  Soiifhrni  route,  of  the  National  Railroad, 
ascending  by  the  water-grade  of  the  I'latte  on  to  the  top  of  the  second 


|<  forms  a  piedmont,  rent 

iiiii.sk.s  tho  fn.iit  of  tho 

it  t(ini  and  wm  hy  the 

['  li'f't  to  define  tin;  origi- 

the  I)a.siii  of  tl„.  Yell„w. 

le  llatone,  and  the  Lhniu 

It  superlative  r('ni„i,,  d^, 
liiis  a  glacis  to  tiu!  (;„|f 
Jined  by  the  iMisf^isMj.],! 
1-0  the  other  three  basins 
:i  iinytliino-  else  but  pro- 
east  and  north, 
wliieh  leads  the  yA,,,,-, 
•■  of  natural  lirades  fr^m 
>\v  awa,its  M'itli  the  keeii- 
1  is  resolved  to  construct 
iropnin  Rtiihaii/. 
ii-ra  3Iadre  frt)in  below 
f^wectwater)  a  wide  jm]), 
lie  sjMce  of  forty  miles, 
■'t,  the  continued  water- 
mdulations. 

"■i"M'  the  mimt  southern 

the  Atlantic  and  .^tcj. 

ly  to  the  Pacific.     This 

».  geofi-raphers  and  ro;ul 
I!  Indian,  the  lAIcxican, 
L'  not  inij)rovcd  or  dc- 
tliey  whil.st  the  mouii- 

'ci)in,u-  with  the  rivers 
he  Colorado,  and  the 
10  Wind  Iliver  ^foun- 
''  •'"'»'<■  fn-ej,  and  into 
!•  canon.s  of  descent  to 

lie  National  Kailroad. 
he  toj)  of  the  second 


THE  PACIFIC  RAILWAY. 


151 


iiiesii.  wliere  it  forms  the  summit,  following  the  level  of  this  mesa  alonjj 
tJic  b;isi'  of  the  hii:h  mesa,  to  the  Columbia  (Snake  lliver),  anil  descend- 
ing its  water-j:rade  clear  out  to  the  Pacific. 

Tlic  distance  from  tlie  Platte  to  the  Columbia  has  not  been  accu- 
rately ascertained,  though  by  the  present  wauoii  road,  which  crosses  a 
corner  of  the  Salt  IJasin,  it  is  less  than  iJdO  miles.  Here  is  that  double 
inclined  jilane,  to  find  which  has  been  the  first  essential  l.i  every  work  of 
art  existinn-  in  the  Avorld. 

There  is  none  south  of  this,  because  everywhere  the  basins  of  tlie  Talile 
Lands  oveilap  and  envelop  one  another,  so  that  the  jia.^ses  h'ad  merely 
from  one  of  the.se  into  another  :  nor  are  there  any  natural  tunnels  through 
the  jirecipitous  walls  of  the  Andes,  and  between  the  basins. 

The  Columbia,  running  across  the  Table  Lands  from  east  to  west,  dis- 
tributes the  descent  of  8500  feet,  equally  alonj^'  its  course  of  1200  miles, 
and  tunnels  the  ureal  ranges  of  Blue  ]M(mntains  and  the  Andes.  This 
whole  course  of  the  river  is  a  continuity  of  rapids  having  three  falls — the 
American  Falls  of  iJO  feet  at  Portneuf,  the  Salmon  Palls  of  45  feet,  200 
miles  below,  and  tho  Chuttes  of  12  feet,  near  the  Dalles. 

This  rivi'r-jirade  is  then  as  rapiil  as  the  descent  to  be  accompli.slied  will 
admit  of;  for,  distributed  into  loni;  levt'ls  and  steep  t;rades,  it  would  im- 
mensely impair  the  utility  of  the  whole  work,  and  I'atally  impede  trans- 
portation. 

The  jiivat  Colorado  runs  diagonally  across  the  Taulk  Lan'D.s,  debouch- 
ing into  the  Gulf  of  California  ;  but  ha.s  its  course  and  those  of  its  <;reat 
affluents,  parallel  with  the  mountain  ranges,  which  are  scored  with  un- 
fathonied  canons,  perjtiexing  the  traveller  with  an  infinity  of  impassable 
ridues,  among  which  the  water-courses  are  cmbowelled. 

North  of  the  South  Pass,  however,  exist  many  single  passes  where  the 
higher  brandies  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia  interlock.  These  circui- 
tous routes  have  all  the  same  termini  as  that  of  the  South  Pa.ss,  for  tliey 
also  descend  the  same  two  rivers  to  the  seas.  Thus  between  the  South 
Pass  and  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  there  exists  no  railroad  route,  owing 
to  the  longitudinal  eourees  of  the  rivers,  the  comjilexity  of  the  basins,  and 
the  double  barrier  of  prinutry  mountain  chains. 

To  the  north,  other  passes  exist,  which  future  generations  may  develop, 
anil  ou  which  navitration  may  be  used  for  four-fifths  of  the  whole  dis- 
tance. True  il  is  that  i>otential  fashion  now  exalts  the  little  maritime 
busiii  of  California,  San  Francisco  Bay,  into  the  haven  of  hope  and  fortune 
of  tho  new  seaboard,  whilst  the  sublime  basin  of  the  Columbia,  and  its 
magnificent  ricer  harbor,  are  banished  from  public  favor. 

The  basin  of  Sau  Francisco  is  small,  tropical  in  climate,  sterile,  and  tho 


,LLl.,Li  ,, 


,..,,. 


fli 


II  :i  1 


'i:«- 


152 


APPEXDIX. 


most  isolated  spot,  to  ruiicli  J'nmi  tin;  intiTior,  on  the  whole  eoust  of  the 
Paeifie.  No  great  river  gives  it  access  to  the  3Iississijij)i  Valley,  I'rom 
wliieli  it  is  cut  oft'  by  the  basins  nl'  the  Salt  Lake,  the  Colorado,  aiul  the 
Del  Norte,  overlapjiiiig  each  other. 

The  Columbia  is  larger  than  tlie  Danube,  and  eijual  to  the  Ganges.  In 
size,  climate,  agricultural  excellence,  capacity  for  ])opulatiou,  and  its  wim- 
derful  circular  configuration,  the  basin  of  the  Columbia  surpasses  Imtii  of 
these  others. 

The  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  a  saliint  point  ui)on  the  open  '-oast,  more 
thau  any  other  central  and  convenient  to  the  whole  North  Pacilic  and 
Asia,  is  in  size,  depth  of  water,  safety  and  I'acility  of  ingress  or  egress, 
equal  to  San  Francisco.  As  the  mouth  of  the  greatest  river  descending 
from  our  continent  into  tlie  Pacific,  it  is  iniinitely  before  it.  It  is  eight 
degrees  south  of  Liverpool,  having  the  climate  of  Bordeaux,  Marseilles, 
or  Savannah. 

Why  is  not  the  deep  sea  navigation  concentrated  at  Norfolk  or  Uamp- 
ton  lloads,  the  finest  harbor  of  the  whole  Atlantic?  Why  rather  is  it 
found  at  New  York  and  New  Orleans,  accessible  only  through  every  dan- 
ger that  can  menace  shijtping?  Why,  because  the  former  is  the  outlet 
of  the  basin  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  latter  of  the  Mississippi.  The  ship- 
ping of  commerce  goes  to  where  cargoes  can  be  found. 

Loss  than  iiftyyearsago,/tM7</o;t  pronounced  the  little  ravines  of  James 
River  and  the  Connecticut  the  proud  spots  of  America,  and  held  tlie  great 
uninhabitable  wastes  of  the  Mississijipi  and  its  uiuuicii/atvd  streams  as 
worthy  only  to  balance  axljixh  !  This  same  splenetic  spirit  o( /iin/iion 
now  manufactures  a  similarly  ridiculous  misdirection  for  the  energy  of  the 
pioneers,  by  setting  up  what  the  geologist  would  call  a  ''  pot-hole  of  the 
Andes,"  ;■  gainst  the  grand  Columbia. 

Commerce,  provident  like  every  other  department  of  industry,  makes 
her.sclf  harbo"  with  charts,  pilots,  buoys,  and  beacons.  The  shallowest 
chauviel  of  the  Columbia  has  thirty-five  feet  water — the  deepest  of  New 
York,  twenty-nine. 

Climate  distinctly  controls  the  migrations  of  the  human  race,  which  has 
steadily  adhered  to  an  hothermnl  lino  around  the  world.  The  extremely 
mild  climate  of  our  Western  seaboard  is  only  the  conseciuenee  of  tlie  same 
great  laws  of  nature  which  operate  in  Western  Europe.  These  are  the 
regular  and  fixed  ordinances  of  the  code  of  nature,  to  which  the  migra- 
tions of  man,  in  common  with  the  animal,  yield  an  instinctive  obedience. 
Within  the  torrid  zone  and  up  to  30°  of  the  Northern  hemi.><phere,  blow 
the  tr(nlr  iciiKlx  and  viiriaUcs,  constantly  from  the  east  and  northeast  all 
around  the  world;  but  the  upi)er  halves  of  elliptical  orbits  followed  by  the 


Tin:  PACfF/r  n.ML  mm  y. 


153 


wiiiil.s  lit'  ill  till-  toinperato  /(inc.  i'nun  l!.")^  tn  (1(1°,  witliin  wiiicli  tlic  winds 
fluw  ((instantly  tVoni  the  wost  ani.!  soiitliwost  all  arnuiul  tliu  world. 

Tiii-.-c  winds  ivauli  tlu'  irrnti  rii  coasts  of  America  and  Eiiroiie  alter  trav- 
ersing the  expanse  of  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic  Oceans.  Warmed  to  the 
same  temiierature  as  tliese  oceans,  they  imjiart  again  this  same  mild  atmo^,- 
iilicre  to  the  maritime  fronts  of  tlie  continents  wliicli  receive  them.  These 
■suae  winds,  passiiiir  onward  over  great  extensions  of  continent  of  low  tem- 
perature, covered  with  snow,  or  Irozen  dnring  winter,  often  warped  ujiward 
bv  ni'inntain  ranges,  becoming  e.vhausted  of  tlieir  warmth,  liave  ujxtn  the 
eastern  portions  of  both  hemisjiheres  an  exactly  oi)posite  efi'ect  niion  the 
climate. 

ll(.'nce  the  variant  temperature  of  New  York  and  Li.sbon,  which  face 
on(!  another  on  the  opposite  coa.sts  of  the  Atlantic — of  IVkin  and  San 
Francisco,  similarly  ojjjxisite  uj)on  the  Pacific.  At  San  Franei.sco  and 
Lisbon  the  seasons  are  but  modulations  of  one  continuous  summer.  At 
New  York  and  Pekin,  winter  su.spends  vegetation  during  seven  months, 
whilst  ice  and  snow  bridge  the  land  and  waters.  The.se  four  cities  are  all 
do.se  njion  the  same  parallel  of  latitude,  the  4Uth  degree. 

It  is  here  manifest  how  in  Asia  the  masses  of  population  lie?  />rIow  the 
-lUth  degree,  in  Europe  alutvc,  and  again  (so  far)  in  America,  curving 
downward  on  the  eastern  face  of  our  continent,  to  rise  again  to  the  north 
upon  the  warm  coast  of  the  Pacific. 

Thus  has  the  zodiac  of  nations,  our  own  nation  similarly  witli  the  rest, 
pursued  a  serjnjntine  line  of  hjikiI  tiniprnifiiir,  ret;iining  all  around  the 
world  similar  emj)loyments,  similar  industrial  ]iursuits,  similar  food  and 
clothing,  retjuiring  similarity  of  climate,  and  recoiling  alike  from  tlie  torrid 
and  the  arctic  zones. 

The  scieiitijic  vwii  of  the  nation  oppo.se  the  National  Railroad — so 
did  those  of  Europe  persecute  (lalileo  and  Columbus.  Science,  like 
the  army  and  nav;  ,  is  fed  from  the  national  revenues,  which  HKtritline 
])olicy  distributes  to  all  that  serve  its  ends.  Science  is  rare ;  the  spurious 
((uackery  of  science  redundant.  It  is  not  the  scientific  doctors  of  the 
schools,  the  bureau.K  and  military  wings  of  government,  that  have  hewed 
out  tliis  republiL'un  empire  from  tlie  wilderness. 

This  has  been  reared  by  the  genuine  lieroism  and  sublime  instincts  of 
i\\ii  ploiuev  f/ /'Hi'/,  unpaid,  unbles.sed,  nay,  scoflfed  and  loaded  with  burdens 
by  government  and  its  swarm  of  dependents.  To  bridle  proures.s  has 
lieen  the  pelicy  of  thirty  years.  To  keep  the  people  out  of  the  wilderness. 
T(.(  refuse  Territorial  governments,  and  prevent  Territories  from  becoming 
States. 

At  this  moment  acicntljic  men  are  especially  busy  di.stracting  us  with 


il-iii 


liiljilil{ 


ii'lii^jiiiij 


>i%    i 


lo4 


APPEXDIX. 


iimltitudiiious  mutes  niul  invented  dit^icultios :  devised  to  perplex  und 
scatter  the  energies  of  the  eitiz.ins :  \vli(jse  unanimous  resolve  it  is  to 
jiluw  open  a  <rreat  eentral  trail  to  the  I'acifie. 

SciiiKi  cannot  unmake  the  eternal  ordinanees  f)f  nature,  and  reset  the 
univei-ie  to  suit  local  fancies  and  idle  fashion.  It  la  the  humble  dut}-  of 
science  to  investigate  nature  im  she  /,s,  and  promulgate  the  truths  discuver- 
al)l(!  for  ihe  guidance  o.   governments  and  men. 

The  experience  gained  from  the  great  works  eonstrueted  by  the  la.st 
generation,  in  digging  through  the  Alleghanies  routes  for  commerce  to 
the  Atlantic,  .settles  for  us  the  rules  that  shall  guide  «s  across  the  Sierra 
Madre  to  the  Pacific. 

In  1S18  the  State  of  New  York  cut  through  the  low  and  narrow  ridgo 
between  Home  and  Syracuse,  the  former  on  an  affluent  of  tlie  Iludson, 
the  latter  of  Lake  Ontario.  Thus  the  first  exj)enditures,  perforating 
the  dividing  mountain,  let  through  that  infant  commerce,  which  in  thirty 
years  has  urown  to  such  a  grandeur  of  (|uantity  and  j)rofit,  tliat  this  great 
thoroughfare  is  itself  ((uadrupled  in  capacity  and  lengthened  out  to  .Mon- 
treal, to  Bo.ston,  to  New  York  City,  and  into  Peimsylvania,  towards  the 
east. 

WrsfwitriL  it  reaches  through  Ohio  and  Indiana  to  the  Ohio  River :  and 
by  the  Illinois  and  AV  isconsin  Rivers  to  the  Missouri  and  ^Mississippi. 

What  the  single  State  of  New  I'ork,  of  1,2(1(1,(100  population,  acconi- 
plished  by  her  own  intrinsic  braver  and  resources,  undismayed  l)y  ridicule 
and  unappalled  by  the  then  expt^' nnental  character  of  .such  works  in  a 
rc.piiltHc  and  upon  our  conl'ncnt: — just  such  a  work  now  invites  the 
national  bravery,  power,  a-.d  wealth  of  this  iiiiptritd  irpiiUic :  namely, 
to  lay,  over  the  dividing  barrier  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  along  the  floor  of 
its  natural  tunnel  at  the  South  Pass,  fin  iron  piithn:ii/y :  whicli,  descend- 
ing the  grades  of  the  Platte  and  Columbia  to  the  highest  p(jints  of  navi- 
gation, shall  let  through  the  first  infant  stream  of  that  supreme  Orinital 
commerce,  whose  annually  expanding  flood  will,  during  our  generation, 
elongatti  its  arms  and  fingers  through  all  the  States  and  to  every  harbor 
of  the  two  seaboards  ! 

Climate :  the  configuration  of  the  continent :  the  location  of  our  States 
and  people :  the  isothermal  line  of  progress :  the  high  latitudes  of  the  ultra- 
oceanic  nations  here  locate  the  "  National  Railroad."  The  clinidte  is  here 
most  favorable  :  because  the  wliole  region  from  the  Missouri  to  the  Colum- 
bia, far  removed  from  any  ocean,  is  so  dry  as  to  be  free  from  rains  in 
summer  and  snoics  in  winter. 

Thus  the  snows  within  the  South  Pass  itself  are  not  so  deep  as  upon 
the  St.  Lawrence,  or  between  J}o.stoii  and  Bufi'alo.    Upou  the  Wind  River 


m^   'i: 


THE   PAP/FIC   RAILWAY. 


155 


(loviseil  to  iicrplcx  am] 
inimous  resolve  it  is  to 


t 


of  natuiv,  iiiid  reset  the 
is  the  humble  duty  of 
ate  tlie  trutlis  discover- 


construeted  l)y  the  last 

routes  for  euunucrei!  to 

lide  Its  aeross  the  Sierra 

he  low  and  narrow  riduo 
affluent  of  the  Hudson, 
ijienditureH,  perforating 
ninieree,  whieh  in  thirty 
nd  i)rofit,  that  this  great 
■ngtliencd  out  to  3I()n- 
nnsylvania,  towards  the 

to  theOliio  River:  and 
Iniri  and  ^Fississipjii. 
,'M)0  ])opulation,  aeeom- 
,  undismayed  by  ridicule 
ter  of  sueh  works  in  a 
work  now  invites  the 
cn'id  iTpiihlic :  namely, 
adre,  along  the  floor  of 
hiriii/ :  whieh,  descend- 
highest  points  of  navi- 
'  that  supreme  Orlnikd 
during  our  generation, 
tes  and  to  every  harbor 

e  location  of  our  States 

;h  latitudes  of  the  ultra- 

The  climtite  is  liere 

^lissouri  to  the  Colum- 

be  free  from  rains  in 

re  not  so  deep  as  upon 
Upou  the  AViud  lliver 


Mouutaiu  tliere  is  no  snow  in  summer,  at  an  altitude  where  it  is  perpetual 
oil  the  Andes  beneath  tlie  eijuatur  and  near  the  ocean  ! 

On  the  Talile  Lands  rain  and  snow  are  so  rare  that  they  may  be  said 
never  to  occur.  This  obstruction,  then,  stated  on  theory  to  be  fatal,  has  no 
cxiste'ice — whilst  this  route,  pursuing  great  rivers:  all  the  way,  has  abun- 
dance of  water.  Mineral  coal  is  abundant  from  end  to  end.  Ijumber  ami 
ruck  intinite  in  quantity  and  convenient  in  jiosition. 

It  is,  then,  I  repeat,  thmugli  the  heart  of  our  Territories,  our  popula- 
tion, our  States,  our  farms  and  liabitations,  that  we  need  this  broad  current 
of  commerce.  Where  passengei-s  and  cargo  may,  at  any  time  or  place, 
embark  ujion  or  leave  the  vehicles  of  transportation. 

It  is  foul  treason  to  banish  it  from  the  land :  from  among  the  people : 
to  force  it  on  to  the  barren  ocean  :  outside  of  society :  tlirough  foreign 
nations:  into  the  torrid  heats  and  along  ;•  litary  circuitous  routes,  im- 
prisoned for  months  in  great  ships. 

This  central  railroad  is  an  essential  domestic  institution:  more  power- 
ful and  permanent  than  law,  or  popidar  con.sent:  to  thoroughly  complete 
the  great  systems  of  fluvial  arteries  which  fraternize  us  into  one  people  : 
to  bind  the  two  seaboards  to  this  one  nation,  like  ears  to  the  human  head: 
to  radicate  the  foundations  of  the  I'nion  so  broad  and  deep,  and  render 
its  structure  so  solid,  tliat  no  possible  force  or  stratagem  can  shake  its 
permanence :  and  to  secure  such  scope  and  space  to  progress,  that  pros- 
perity and  equality  shall  never  be  impaired  or  chafe  for  want  of  room. 

What,  sirs,  are  these  pojmlous  empires  of  .iapan  and  China,  now  be- 
come our  neighboio?  They  are  the  most  ancient,  the  most  highly  civil- 
ized, the  most  polLshed  of  the  earth. 

It  was  from  Sinim  (China)  that  the  Jiulean  king  Solomon  imported 
the  architects,  the  mechanics,  the  furnit.ire  of  his  gorgeous  temple. 
Ifi  iirr.  the  Tyrians  brought  tapestry,  carpets,  shawls  of  wool,  cotton  and 
silk  fabrics,  wares  of  jwrcelain  and  metals,  dyes,  gums,  and  spices,  jewels 
poli.shed  and  .set. 

Jlciice,  came  the  climax  of  all  human  inventions,  lettei's  <tnd  Jiyiars, 
which  fix  language  and  numbers,  making  them  eternal :  astronomy,  arith- 
metic, algebra,  deeimiUs,  chemistry,  printing,  navigation,  agriculture,  and 
horticulture. 

All  the.se,  erroneou.sly  ascribed  as  the  inventions  of  the  Arabs  or  to  the 
exiles  of  Con.stantinople.  who  brought  them  into  Western  Europe,  are  the 
creations  of  Oriental  genius  and  study. 

Tea.  sugar:  the  peach  produced  I'nim  the  wild  almond:  the  orange 
from  the  sour  lime  :  the  apjile  from  the  crab  :  the  fruits :  the  flowers :  the 
vegetables  of  cur  gardens,  are  the  crtationn  of  Chinese  horticiiUiiral  !n:iciu:e. 


'  ffl  I 


iWil 


li 


15(i 


M'I'h'XOIX. 


The  horse,  cnttli',  the  swiiic  iiiid  jMiultry  df  our  farms,  conie  to  us  fmiu 
tlu'uci'.  Tlic  cultiiro  III"  till'  ccrciil  iiraiiis,  wli^at,  rice,  liarlcy  lircail.  wvu' 
the  olive  ami  silk,  liavf  ronic  to  us  IVoin  the  laithcst  Orient.  !/< im  ulso 
caiiio  guiipowiler,  the  inaij;noti(.;  needle,  and  (iiicmiel.  Tht;  jialnts,  varnish, 
and  tools  of  the  art  have  come,  and  the  reniedius  used  in  pliarinacy. 

Oar  liistorie  records,  ciininniiiuii/  with  the  arrival  of  ])roL;res^i\e  civil- 
ization at  the  extremity  of  the  .Mediterranean,  relate  IVoni  traditiim  tin; 
anti(juc  emjiire  of  Bacchus  and  the  relijrion  of  Zoroaster  u]ion  the  (lanjjcs 
and  tlio  Indus.  The  Chaldeans  of  Mu;  Persian  Sea  followed.  I'Ircts 
came  from  the  extreme  Ortmt  into  the  IJi  ii'j;al  Sea,  the  Pcirsian  Gulf,  and 
the  lied  Sea ;  and  caravans  ovcrlai.  i  hy  the  Uxus  and  tho  Caspian  lirouuiit 
tlio  camel,  the  horse,  cuttle,  manufactured  wool,  silks,  cotton,  and  metals, 
aj;riculture,  commerce,  and  coin. 

Enijii  exjiandinj^  westward  along  the  Ganges,  the  Kuiihrates.  and 
the  Nile,  reached  to  the  Mediterranean  and  Kuxine.  From  Egypt,  I'Ikc- 
nicia,  and  Colchis  (Trehisond),  .si)rang  European  Greece. 

Sudi  as  Progress  is  to-day,  the  same  has  it  been  for  ten  thousand  years. 
It  is  the  stream  of  the  luiman  race  flowing  from  the  cost  to  tlw  mxt.  im- 
pelled by  the  same  divine  instinct  that  pervades  creation.  15y  this  track 
comes  tlie  sun  diurnally  to  cheer  the  world.  Thus  come  the  tides  of  men 
and  of  the  waters:  learning:  law:  religion:  the  plague:  the  smallpox  ■ 
and  the  cholera.  The  sources  of  life  and  happiness — the  pestilence  that 
saddens  both. 

These  empires  of  which  we  have  spoken  have  left  upon  the  ground  tluy 
occupied  their  names,  political  society,  their  organized  systems  of  gov- 
ernment and  religion.  Does  ncjt  society,  then,  once  founded  beconu! 
perennial  ?  It  is  within  a  belt  of  the  earth  straddling  the  -lOth  degree 
of  north  latitude  that  the  greatest  mass  of  land  surrounds  the  world,  and 
where  the  continents  most  nearly  aiijirouch. 

Within  this  belt  (from  J](l°  to  50°)  four-fifths  of  the  human  race  is 
assembled,  and  here  the  civilized  nations,  of  whom  we  ])osse.ss  any  history, 
have  succeeded  one  another,  connnencing  at  the  farthest  extremity  uf 
Asia,  and  forming  a  zodiac  towards  the  setting  sun. 

This  succession  has  flowed  onward  in  an  even  course,  undulating  along 
an  isothermal  line,  until  in  our  time  the  ring  is  about  to  close  around  the 
earth's  circumference,  by  the  arrival  of  the  American  nation  on  the  coast 
of  the  Pacific,  which  looks  over  on  to  Asia. 

In  this  age  and  in  this  march  of  human  race,  as  elsewhere:  tin;  bold, 
energetic,  and  indomitable :  the  picked  spirits  of  the  world  lead  the  van ; 
and  such  is  the  piuuccr  nrwij. 

What  means  that  expression  in  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  "life. 


mtik 


'•  flinns,  coiiiL"  to  us  fiiiin 
I'icf,  l.iulcy  l.iviid.  wi,,,,^ 
ifst  Oriciii.      //,.„,.,  .||,y 
Tlic  jiaiiits,  Vinnisli, 
iiscfl  ill  ])liann.icv. 
iviil  of  i.roi;rf.-*si\v  civil- 
■liiti;  iruiii  traditiiiM  ih,. 
niiistcr  ii|ioii  tlic(;;iiiL:,..s 
II   Si';i   fiillmvi'd.      Klirts 
1,  tlio  I'crsiiin  CJiiir.  iiinl 
"III  tho  Casjiiaii  lin.ii-lit 
ilks,  cotton,  and  nictals, 

:»'«,  tlu;  Kiiitliratcs.  and 
ic.  From  Ku3]it,  I'lia'- 
( i  rci'co. 

fur  trn  thousand  years, 
tllc  rant  to  tin-  vcat.  m- 
fivation.  ]}y  this  truck 
IS  come  the  tides  of  men 

Jihigue:  the  snialliiox- 
less — the  i)estilcuee  that 

ft  upon  the  ground  tlicy 
;:inized  systems  of  uov- 
onco  founded  become 
Idling  the  40tli  degree 
urrounds  the  workl,  and 

of  tlie  liuman  race  is 
we  possess  any  liistory. 
!  fartliest  extremity  of 
n. 

ourse,  undulating  along 
out  to  elose  around  tlie 
can  nation  on  the  coast 

IS  elsewhere :  tlie  bold, 
he  world  lead  the  van ; 

:)f  Independence,  "life, 


Tin:  i:\rif ir  iiMi.  ir.i  )', 


157 


lilicrty,  ikI  ihr  pursuit  <if  /Kippinisa"  .'  What  tuouulit  tlie  Civalii  r>  to 
Viri;inia  in  1(!0S?  It  was  "the  pursuit  of  lia|ipinc>s."  Wiiat  animated 
the  Pilgrims  to  endure  the  rigors  of  I'lyinoutli  lloci;  ?     ^VIly,  "tlie  pur- 


laillolis  IiIuIIL:!!!''  il 


Miit  111'  liappiness."      What  sought  Boone  and  liis  coinp; 

llii)ii-and  miles  into  tlie  wilderness?     1'his  same  ••pursuit  of  happiness. 


Wliiit  secret  motives  now  brings  foreigners  to  our  shon 


cs,  ami  imiieis  our 


■iti/eiis  onward  to  tlic  I'acitie?     Again,  it  is  "  the  jmrsuii  of  liappi- 


ness. 


/'/•"i/i'isn,  tlien,  is  one  of  the  immortal  KKillTS  saiictilied   in  the  Charter 


liberty.      AVliy,  then,  is  advent   into  the  wildc 


-the   field 


lit  human  liner 

for  the  diseontent4)d,  the  oppre.ssed,  the  needy,  tlu;  restless,  the  ambitious, 
and  tli(^  virtuous,  thus  closed  by  a  )iolicy  at  once  sinister,  nefarious,  and 
uiiroiistifutional  ? 

I'lHpiiet  for  our  sacred  I'iiion  is  this  present  time,  when  political 
]Hiwer,  about  to  cross  the  Alleglianies,  sec-saws  on  their  crests,  counting 
the  d.ays  that  precede  her  eternal  transit  over  them  I 

It  is  by  the  rapid  propagation  of  new  States:  tlu'  immediate  occupation 
(if  the  broad  platform  of  the  continent  :  tin;  aggregation  of  the  I'acitie 
Ocean  and  Asiatic  commerce  :  that  impiiiitude  will  be  swalloweil  up.  and 
the  murniurs  of  discontent  lost  in  the  onward  siiiiinl  of  advancement. 
Pisioiitcnt,  distanced,  will  die  out. 

The  immense  wants  of  the  Pacific  will  draw  oil',  over  the  Western  out- 
lets, the  over-teeming  crojw  of  the  Mississippi  \'alley.  Thus  will  the 
present  seaboard  States  resume  again  their  once  ]  rotitable  monopoly 
of  the  Kuropean  market,  relieved  from  the  competition  of  the  interior 
Stat.'S. 

The  cotton  and  rice;  culture  of  (leorgia  and  the  Carolinas  will  revive. 
The  tobacco  of  Virginia  ami  .Maryland  will  again  alone  reach  Europe. 
Ships  withdrawn  from  the  Xorthern  States  to  the  Pacific,  will  regenerate 
tile  noble  liiisiness  of  nautical  construction  in  New  Kngland  and  \ew 
York. 

The  cstabli.xhed  domestic  manufactures  of  clothing  ami  metals  will  find, 
in  our  great  home  (extension,  that  protection  which  they  in  vain  seek  to 
create  by  uncipial  legislation,  nocuous  and  impracticable  in  our  present 
incomplete  and  unbalanced  geographical  finni. 

Thus  calmly  weighed  and  liberally  ajipreciated,  does  this  great  Central 
Railroad  mini,ster  to  the  interests  and  invite  the  advocacy  and  co-opera- 
tion of  every  section  of  our  territory,  and  every  citizen  of  our  coinmou 


countrv. 


The  exelu.sion  of  foreigners  from  Japan,  China,  and  Cochin  China 
not  then  an  institution  of  barbarism,  but  a  domestic  tariff  of  protection. 


IS 


i ;  •  ;i 


.♦■T 


iH 


168 


AI'I'ESin.S. 


■1* 


It  is  (lo-iuiicil.  like  tlic  ('iiiiiliiiiiitiun  of  Cliristiim  iiiidoiis  ii'jainst 
jiinicy,  to  ]iriit<'ct  llii'ir  nutiiiiijility  ami  riccdiuii  iiuain^t  tlin.si'  licrcr  inilitmy 
nations  (if  Nuktiimkn,  wlio  for  twenty  (cntiirit's  liavo  rent  Kuinj  aim 
Wcstoni  Asia  with  jHTiK'tual  inassai  rr  :  wlio  ransai  k  all  tlic  seas  in  ilnir 
war-sliiji.s  :  stoic  tlic  rucks  of  tlic  ocean  witli  niiinitions  of  war  :  cni>li  tlic 
millions  of  India  witli  cannon  and  tlic  liavonct  ;  ]ilinulcr  Africa  of  a  niillinn 
iiiinnall)  of  licr  swarthy  cdiihtrcn  to  rot  in  foreij;n  slavery:  and  cmh 
externiiiii.te  one  another  in  deadly  strife  when  they  meet  anionu  the  ;iii- 
ti]iodes.  in  the  solitudes  of  the  Southern  Ocean. 

When,  however,  utir  di]ploinacy  shall  receive  a  wise  direction — when 
our  fuolisli  nepotism  to  Kurojit;  sliall  lie  run  out — when  men  ol'  sense. 
f<ueh  as  Franklin  was  of  old,  shall  sail  over  from  Astoria  to  I'ekin.  ami 
there  converse,  with  tlii'  Oiiiiilnl  Cuiirt.  of  Re|iuli]ican  America  as  she  is 
— when  her  civic  jirowth  and  ]iacifie  |policy  shall  he  there  understood — 
when  the  central  position  .  four  continent  slndl  be  known;  formiiii:  the 
avenue  for  trade  and  harrier  apiinst  war  with  the  Northmen  of  Kuropc — 
tlien  will  mutual  confidence  hetween  these,  the  oldest  and  youniicst  of 
the  human  fiimily,  f/ic  i.rtnrhits  nut.  show  itself  in  the  graces  of  a  free 
commerce,  and  the  ties  of  an  harmonious  fraternity. 

It  is  for  you  especially,  jieople  of  Missouri,  to  .seek  tlic.se  new  relations 
with  the  Oriental  peojile,  with  the  zeal  of  faith  and  the  fixed  will  oi' con- 
viction. 

It  is  arch  mockery  for  us  to  he  duped  by  the  flijipatit  caricatures  of 
these  ancient  and  ]iolish(;d  Asiatics:  invented  by  British  envy  to  mislead 
us,  and  fed  out  to  us  by  the  British  press  to  cloak  sinister  designs  of  suh' 
jugation  and  world-wide  plunder. 

Rather  let  us  take  alarm  at  the  tone  and  source  of  this  monstrous  flood  of 
calumny  :  and  know  that  a  direct  inspection  for  ourselves  will  reveal  to  us. 
in  Asia,  emjiires  of  people  illustrious  for  their  anti(jue  civilization  :  ren- 
dered enduring  and  perfect  by  political  eijuality.  and  wi.se  civic  institutions, 
winnowed  and  renovated  during  fifty  centuries  of  uninterruiited  exiieii- 
dice — among  whom  the  science  and  art  of  war.  indt'cd,  are  decayed  from 
long  disuse:  but  all  iiseful  sciences  liighly perfected — with  whom  govern- 
ment has  reached  the  mildest  form  of  patriarchal  desjiotism,  eliminatiiiir 
political  priestcraft  and  the  disseminated  tyrannj'  of  a  patrician  order — 
"who  have  so  admirably  refined  and  perfected  municipal  government  and 
police  that  4(1(1, 0(10, 0(H)  of  population  (double  that  of  all  Europe)  are 
united  under  one  harmonious  political  system  in  concord  and  trainiuillity. 

It  is  among  the.se  swarming  hives  of  ingenious  people  that  we  will  find 
markets  on  a  s:ale  commensurate  with  our  own  jirolific  industry. 

This  is  not  now  the  case  in  Europe.     The  Europeans  are  in  all  tliini;.': 


IS 


Tin:  I'M'iiir  UMi.WA  y. 


\Wd 


lin>tl;ill      IIMfM.llS     ;|u,,|,„t 

hin>t  lll.,>r(i,,v,.  „,ilit;,rv 
Y  'i"vc  ivht  K„r,,j  ,„„', 
'SM'k  all  til..  s,,i.s  in  ,1,,,;,. 
jiitiuiis  ..Cwiir:  cnoj,  ,1,,, 
JlMiHlcrAfi-i,„.,Ci,  n,iili„„ 
|i<'i-ii  slavny:  aii.l  rv,,, 
]Il<'y  meet    ailKMl-  tlir  ,i,|. 

a  wis..  (lirocti..!!— wluii 
lit— when  nu'ii  of  s..ns.., 
I"  A.st..na  fo  I>,.ki„.  ,„„| 
ililiciin  Anicri(.a  as  sli..  is 
I  ''<•  lliiTt^  undcist,,,,.!— 
bo  kn.iwii:  fiirmiiiir  tin. 
'■  Nortlmion  ..f  I-;iin,|„.__ 
"Idi'st  anil  }-.,iiiin,.,.f  „f 
''  ill  tlie  graces  of  a  free 

■'*i'ek  these  new  r<.lati..iis 
md  til.;  fixed  will  ofeon- 

"  flippant  caricatures  .if 
:  Britisli  envy  t.i  misl.  ad 
k  sinister  designs  ..f  sul,. 

)f  this  monstrous  fl.iod.,f 
irs..Ive.s  will  reveal  to  iis. 
iiti.jue  civilizati.in  :  reii- 
d  wise  civic  instituti.pns. 
f  uninterrupted  exjieii- 
id.'ed,  are  de..aje.|  fnmi 
'd — with  whom  govern- 
despotism,  eliminatinL' 
of  a  patrician  order — 
licijial  government  and 
l>at  of  all  Eurojie)  are 
)ncord  and  tran.juillity. 
'oojile  that  we  will  fiii.I 
'liiie  industry, 
jieans  are  in  all  tliin-s 


OP!  rivals  and  conipetit.irs.  Ar..  we  ai;iicultur!' 's?  So  are  th.  y.  and 
wall  oTour  conipetiiion  witli  corn-law  tariff*.  Are  miners  an.l  iiianii- 
I'aeturcrs  ?  So  arc  they,  and  overtop  us  Ity  abundance  of  labor  and  capi- 
tul.  Are  we  sliip-.iwn.'rs?  So  are  thi.y.  liaving  an  immense  marine 
cheaply  navigated.  They  con.  jUer  and  colonize  foreign  eountri.'s.  . if  whose 
trade  they  make  monop.ilies  !  They  are  northern  nations,  whos..  clothing 
is  of  wool  and  flax,  consuming  a  very  limited  amount  of  cotton. 

What  they  take  fr.im  us  is  to  manufacture  for  exportation,  Tobacco 
is  ]iiiiliiliit...l — h.;mp  and  metals  tht.y  exp.irt.  The  p.ipulatimi  of  Kurope 
is  l.'(ir),(MI(l.()(H)_of  the  Atlantic  all  roun.l,  2r):j,(i'MI,(M)(l. 

On  the  Pacific,  in  front  of  us,  are  4l)0,()0(),000  people  of  the  tr.ipics — 
Polynesians,  South  Americans,  Soutli.Tn  Asiatics — among  wliom  wli.'at 
is  not  cultivated,  and  animal  f.jo.l,  other  than  fish  and  jmuliry,  very 
scarce.  Their  clotliing  is  exclusively  cloth  of  cotton,  grass,  an.l  silk. 
Opium  is  excessively  used  among  them.  Rice,  the  plantain,  lianana,  and 
fruits  are  their  unsubstantial  diet. 

Here,  then,  will  be  the  market  for  raw  and  manufactured  c.itton.  Ifere 
our  rank  manufactured  t.jbacco  will  substitute  itself  f.ir  opium.  Here 
our  substantial  articles  of  food — flour,  meats,  and  fish — will  find  purcha.sers 
in  all  who  eat.     Lead  and  hemp  will  be  .sold. 

In  return  will  come  to  us  groceries,  spices,  teas,  coffee,  Ku.'iir — porce- 
lain, Jaf)an  ware,  furniture,  w.)rks  in  ivory — drugs,  jiaints,  dyes,  medi- 
cines—  beautiful  fabrics  of  silk,  .satin,  velvet,  crapes;  nankeens,  tlie 
delicate  shawls  of  Cashmere,  tlie  carpets  of  Persia — jewelry,  trinkets,  and 
toys — the  hemp  of  Manilla — luscious  fruits  dried  and  preserved. 

Tlie  peojile  of  the  Pacific  have  no  marine  adapted  to  cross  the  great 
ocean — the  carrying  to  and  fro  will  be  in  our  .ships,  and  a  monopoly  to  us 
— sliip-building  and  navigati.in  will  occupy  our  people  of  the  new  sea- 
board, and  the  metals,  lumber,  and  hemp  of  the  interior  find  a  -.rodigious 
demand.     The  population  of  the  Pacific  all  round  exceeds  ()45,n()O,(lu0  ! 

Will  not  then  our  people  find  in  this,  that  certain  panacea  of  ail  tlieir 
wants  and  wishes,  namely,  an  infinite  market  of  consumption  ?  Surely 
this  people,  which  has  submitted  to  the  nostrums  of  political  (|uackery: 
tariffs  of  protection :  banks  to  make  money  plenty  :  home  manufactures 
and  systems  of  internal  improvement:  all  invented  to  create  markets  at 
home,  by  changing  our  producing  agriculturists  into  consuming  opera- 
tives :  but  all  of  which  little  experiments  have  produced  industrial 
anarchy  and  commercial  bankruptcy. 

Surely  this  people  will  not  hesitate  to  construct  for  themselves  this  great 
"  National  Highway,"  at  small  comparative  cost :  and  leading  as  level  as 
a  cannon  to  its  blank :  to  a  new  ocean,  teeming  with  045,000,000  of 


1 

m 


[GO 


APPESDIX. 


people,  of  WMiits  unlimited,  and  having  a  genius  aetive,  intelligent,  and  cum- 
mereial !  To  efleet  tliis,  it  is  only  necessary  to  untraniniel  progress  IVom 
the  snares  and  dead-falls  of  maritime  policy. 

To  reopen  the  legitimate  onward  trail  of  the  pioiirtr  uritnj,  and  niu- 
vigorate  its  march.  The  cause  of  the  pioneers  at  this  hour  pre-eniinonily 
ditnaii'ljt  the  undivided  energies  of  Missouri.  It  is  for  us  tliat  the 
jiiiinecr  army  is  tiotc  coiKjuering  the  vast  wilderness  that  hems  in  our 
Liiuiun'rce  and  blocks  the  frontier  :  for  us  it  throws  down  the  iierfiilinus 
Indian  wall:  reopens  the  central  trail  of  advancement  so  long  insidiously 
closed — and  to  us,  for  us,  it  re-establishes  that  crowning  excellence  of 
position  of  which  hostile  policy  has  for  thirty  years  bereft  us. 

It  is  not  andjition  that  impels  us,  citizens  of  3Iis.souri.  to  advance  to 
the  advocacy  of  this  great  v.ork  with  our  whole  unshackled  energies — it 
is  high  religious  duty. 

Citilra/  to  the  continent,  to  its  internal  navigation,  to  its  States,  to  its 
commerce,  and  to  its  variety  of  agriculture  :  neutral  to  all  .'^ectional  antipa- 
thies, and  the  converging  heart  of  all  interests:  WE  must  occupy  this 
central  position  with  power  and  dignity  equal  to  its  importance ;  with  a 
strength  of  grasp  and  intensity  of  enterprise  to  cope  with  the  tallest  exi- 
gencies. 

Let  us  appreciate  this,  and  stand  up  to  the  work  with  hearts  of  cmitru- 
•cr.«y  and  sinews  of  endurance :  that  the  fame  of  our  glorious  State, 
sa.  ing  forth  from  her  seat  in  the  centre,  may  resound  in  and  outward 
all  round  from  the  centre  to  the  circumfluent  oceans  ! 

Observe  the  foreign  commerce  of  America,  and  the  splendid  marine 
which  it  sustains  !  This  has  grown  up  in  two  hundred  years.  But  com- 
pare with  it  the  eonmierce  and  navigation  of  the  interior,  grown  up  in 
less  'han  forty  years,  for  such  is  the  age  of  steam  navigation  on  the  rivers 
and  lakes. 

The  latter  already  equals  the  former,  for  it  transports  internally  what 
i;:  consumed  at  home,  as  well  as  what  is  collected  at  the  seaports  for  expor- 
tation. Thus,  St.  Louis,  in  the  amount  of  tonnage  arriving  and  departing 
annually,  is  the  fourth  city  of  the  Union,  ranking  next  to  Boston. 

Indefinitely  grand  is  this  domestic,  internal  commerce.  Let  us  com- 
pare the  two.  The  commerce  between  New  York  and  Liverpool,  8500 
miles  asunder,  requires  powerful  vessels  of  great  size  and  strength  to  carry 
much,  and  resist  the  storms  of  the  ocean.  The  intervening  space  is  a 
clu.scrf  iiyistc  of  salt  water.  A  vessel  of  000  tons  must  be  filled  with  cargo 
before  her  departure,  to  make  so  long  a  voyage  profitable.  She  goes  to 
Liverpool  and  back — sails  3500  miles,  touches  only  two  points  of  land, 
and  carries  two  loads — four  months  of  time,  at  least,  is  consumed  in 


THE  PACIFIC  IIMLWAY. 


161 


■•'.  intolli,!j.oiit.iiii(lc,,in. 
tniiiinu'l  i)r(i<:rf.s.s  iVdm 

nnrir  (iniii/,  and  nin- 
li.s  hour  prc-eiiiiiH'iitly 
t  is  fur  u.s  tliat  the 
■sf<  that  lu'iiis  ill  our 
•■■s  iluwu  tlio  iR'ilidiuus 
■nt  so  hiiijr  insidi((ii-sly 
)Wiiin<j:  exeellc'iicc  of 
bereft  u.s. 
-lissouri.  to  advance  to 
nshackled  enorjiics — it 

on,  to  its  States,  to  its 
to  all  sectional  anti|ia- 
\VE  must  occupy  this 
ts  importance;  with  a 
»e  with  the  talle.-t  e\i- 

with  hearts  of  contro- 
of  our  glorious  State, 
sound  in  and  outward 

s! 

i  the  splendid  marine 
ired  years.  But  com- 
;  interior,  grown  up  in 
ivigatiou  on  the  rivers 

*ports  internally  what 
ho  seajjorts  for  e.\por- 
rriving  and  dejiarting 
ext  to  Boston, 
mcrco.  Let  us  com- 
itnd  Liverjpool,  ;>')(»() 
iind  strength  to  carry 
itervcniiig  space  is  a 
it  be  filled  with  cargo 
jfitable.  She  goes  to 
y  two  points  of  laud, 
?ast,  is  consumed  iu 


tills.     Such  arc  the  voyages  of  ocean  commerce — expensive,  dilatory  and 


ti 


(laniiors. 


Coiniiarc  with  this  the  river  voyage.  From  rittsl)urg  ( nr  New  Or- 
leans; to  Fort  Union,  the  distance  is  liodd  miles,  by  the  Uliiu  ami  Mis- 
souri Kivcr.s — a  steamer  of  (j((()  tons,  chea})ly  constructed  and  navigated, 
peitiirnis  the  voyage  to  and  fro,  with  perfect  safety,  in  two  and  a  half 
iiiiiiiilis.  and  alisolutely  without  danger,  along  a  continuous  river  chaiiiu'l. 

This  eiiannel  has  a  double  bank,  so  that  tliis  vessel  coasts  along  a  shore 
of  14,0(((t  miles,  at  any  square  rod  of  which  she  may  take  in  and  discharge 
passengers  and  cargo.  Thus  it  is  jiossible  that  no  single  pas.senger  or 
cargo  remains  on  board  over  ItH)  miles,  and  yet  the  vi'ssel  is  full  through- 
out the  voyage.  These  same  advantages  belong  to  rtiHr<in<h  traversing 
populous  countries.  Siu-h  is  our  internal  navigation — cheap,  expeditious, 
and  absolntciy  without  danger. 

Now  the  circuitous  seaboard  surrounding  the  Atlantic  may  be  estimateil 
at  (lit, 000  miles,  with  harbors  indenting  it — but  small  ves.sels  caimot  navi- 
gate the  broad  sea,  nor  large  vessels  enter  all  the  harbors. 

On  the  other  hand,  within  the  united  basins  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
AIi><issi[ipi.  is  a  continuous  river  navigation  for  ir).()0(l  niiles.  having  a 
double  bank  or  !)(l,0(KI  miles  of  coast,  the  whole  extent  of  which  may  be 
visiteil  by  the  same  steamer,  whicli  can  land  anywhere  I 

Such  is  one  illustration  of  the  supremely  lieneficent  Ibrmation  of  this 
great  inti'rior  basin,  of  which  our  own  State  occupies  thecentr(>  and  focus. 
Let  a  railroad  from  the  Missouri  elongate  this  to  tlu^  Pacific :  carrying 
population  clear  up  all  the  rivers  to  tlunr  sources  and  down  those  beyond 
the  Sierris;   and  behold  the  greatiu>ss  of  an  ///^r^'?/ comnu'rce ! 

Everybody  is  acfpiaintt'd  with  the  commercial  intercourse  between  the 
continents  which  fringe  the  Atlantic.  Tlio  life,  the  vivacity,  the  grand 
energies  which  resound  upon  its  buoyant  waves.  All  this  is  the  result  of 
the  discovery  of  Anu'rica  and  its  jiopulation  with  Euro]ieau  stock — hiMice 
all  this  has  its  growth  ! 

Antifjuity  had  for  its  field  tlie  ^lediterranean,  and  galleys  sufficed.  This 
was  comnu'rce  in  its  infancy,  confined  to  the  nur.«ery  and  content  with 
toys.  Sinci!  Columbus,  America  has  become  greater  than  the  Europe  of 
rolumbiis — and  as  this  ])eriod  has  expandeil  the  field  of  human  activity 
I'l'oni  the  Mediterranean  to  the  Atlantic  and  .Me(literranean.  IVoin  Western 
l']uro]H'  to  America  and  Europe,  blending  all  this  vast  space  under  one 
internal i(inal  relationship. 

So  now  we  advance  to  consummate  the  blending  of  the  Pacific  with 
these  other  seas: — Asia  with  these  other  continents — and  urg(>  to  its  goal 
that  exjtandiiig  progression,  which  marches  ou  to  complete  the  zoilinc  of 

11 


I 


-1:1 


162 


APPEXblX. 


I       II 


the  globe,  iind  lilonil  into  bonds  of  confrutoniity  all  the  continents,  all  the 
seas,  and  all  the  nations  ! 

In  the  vast  region  of  Nortlnvcstern  Texas,  traversed  by  the  rivei's 
Brazos,  Trinity,  ilio  Uoxo,  Canadian,  Arkansas,  and  Del  Ncjrte.  exists  a 
fertile  region  nuieh  larger  tliaii  France,  the  dryness  of  wbost'  eiinmtc;, 
whose  red  soils,  impregnated  with  the  sulphate  of  lime  (jilasterj,  and 
wliose  altitude,  present  in  perfect  combination  the  qualities  for  the  culti- 
vation of  the  grape  and  the  production  of  wines. 

These  rivers  all  have  their  sources  in  jirodigious  mountains  of  plaster. 
from  which  the  red  tinge  and  the  fertility  of  their  valleys  below  is  derived. 
Natural  vineyards,  covering  n:illions  of  acres,  and  annually  pruned  down 
by  the  nibbling  herds  of  butfalo  and  anteloi>e,  here  now  yearly  waste  an 
infinite  vintage. 

This  has  already  become  known  to  the  German  pioneers  of  Texas,  and 
soon  will  be  seen  rising  a  vine  culture,  rivalling  in  national  importance  the 
cotton  culture,  the  tobacco  eroji.  and  even  the  jiroduction  of  jirovisions. 
Then  too  will  be  seen  the  universal  consumption  of  mild  and  healthy  wines 
by  our  pcojile,  and  the  gay  and  exhilarating  sjiirits  which  generous  wines 
inspire,  will  transjiose  the  fell  passions  and  fiery  madness  of  alcohol. 

Again,  the  region  oi'gold  and  jirecious  metals  and  stones  is  not  limited, 
liut  is  absolutely  infinite.  It  is  over  the  whole  extent  of  that  primary  and 
volcanic  formation  extending  from  the  antarctic  to  the  arctic  I'xtremitics 
of  America,  inchuling  in  its  expanse  the  Andes  of  South  and  North 
America,  the  Sierra  Mailre  and  the  Table  Lands. 

This  abundance  of  the  mati'rial  of  coin,  wrought  and  develojied  by 
sober  American  industry,  is  to  the  human  race  the  supreniest  gift  of 
Divine  Beneficence. 

Has  not  the  American  cotton  culture  obliterated  liarsli  aristocratic  dis- 
tinctions in  dress,  and  thus  democratized  the  costume  of  society  over  the 
world?  What  cotton  has  done  for  ecjuality  in  dress,  the  .same  will  gold 
effect  fiu'  individual  ecjuality  in  property  and  physical  comforts. 

I^tudy  how  the  stiff,  icy  servitude  of  European  feudal  times  has  melted, 
since  the  conipiests  of  Cortez  and  I'izarro  opened  the  sources  from  whicii 
portable  personal  property  has  exalted  itself  above  fixed  and  immutable 
glebe  land ! 

Beyond  the  Sierra  IMadre,  upon  the  Great  Tal)le  Lands,  is  a  parallel  vein 
of  thin  mountains,  whose  masses  consist  of  rock-.salt.  As  streams  else- 
where Ijring  down  gravei  and  soil,  so  here  they  liijuefy  the  rocks  down 
which  they  descend,  and  reaching  the  small  inland  seas  and  lakes,  yield  it 
again  in  the  cry.xtalline  coverings  which  jiave  their  bowls. 

In  another  parallel  vein  is  a  coniinm  us  line  of  jdaster  mountains. 


A 


the  continents,  nil  the 


"•f<i'  fhniatc;, 
>f  lime  (j.liister).  and 
"lualitios  t'(.r  the  culti. 

mountains  oi'  iilastur. 
alleys  below  is  ilciiveJ. 
annually  jirun.d  duwn 
•i  now  yearly  waste  au 

pioneers  of  Texas,  and 
tational  importance  the 

xluetion  of  iirovisiuiis. 
mild  and  Iiealtliy  wines 
<  wliieh  generous  wines 
^idness  of  aleoljol. 
d  stones  is  lu.t  limited, 
'lit  of  that  ].riniary  and 
0  the  arctic  extremities 

of  J^outh  and  Xurth 


harsh  aristocratic  dis- 
me  of  .society  over  the 
:'ss,  tlie  same  will  gold 
•al  comforts, 
udal  times  has  melted, 
le  sources  from  which 

fixed  and  immutable 

unds,  is  a  parallel  vein 

lit.     As  streams  elsc- 

|uefy  the  rocks  down 

oas  and  lakes,  yield  it 

owls. 

aster  mountains. 


77/ a;   PAf'irir  n.MLWA  v. 


163 


In  another,  a  continuous  line  of  tin 


J 


nf  which  are  tlu?   first   ajipearani-e  aiMive 

having  flowed  hundreds  ol'  miles  under  plains  of  lav; 


II  riiiiii  and  mniirnini  sjiruigs.  snni< 


/ 


d  of  snliterranea 


n  rivers. 


tyccniiiiiii 


III 


h, 


rre 


It  size  abiiund.  having'  freestone,  niarb 


anil 


eiial  formations — iron.  lead,  and  the  metals  of  the  arts.     All  forms,  indeed, 
into  which  geology  classifies  matter,  hen;  follow  one  another  in  ajppro- 


jinate  jiositions  and  proportions,  wi 


th  tl 


U'  rciiularilv  o 


f  tl 


le  stripes  o 


rainbow:   the  wlnde  deriving  proininenee  and  distiuctuess  of  detail  from 
the  immensity  of  the  general  .scale. 

Thus,  instead  of  inl'criority  in  al)uiidauce  and  variety  of  things  used  }iy 
and  useful  to  man,  it  is  here  that  they  especially  abound  in  variety,  good 


(juality.  and  vastne.ss. 


A, 


dl  tl 


lese  must  pa 


an 


y  higl 


iwav  eonncctin^i 


the  two  oceans,  distributinu:  outward  the  infinite  natural  resources  of  this 


intra-montaue  woi 


Id. 


Xo  other  i)ortion  of  tlu'  W(n'ld  will  better  accommodate  a  d 


1 
lation  than  these  Table  liam 


eiise  pojiu- 


oii  wine 


faith 


er  south,  is  the  ch 


ief 


P"l 


lUla 


tion  of  Mexico.  In  the  dryness  and  salubrity  of  its  climat(>.  its  extraor- 
dinary pastoral  oxcellence,  and  its  mineral  wealth,  are  the  ei|uivalents  of 
the  richer  lands,  but   uncertain  seasons  and  health   of  countries  of  h'ss 


iltit 


uile. 


It,^ 


s  intermediate  iiositiou  will   secure  iieriietual  eominuiiicatioi 


perp( 


with  tlie  seaboards. 

An  admirable  economy  of  arrangement  given  by  nature  to  the  iiiilia<fii/ 
of  our  jieople.  points  with  great  jiower  to  this  central  route,  which  also  cor- 
responds to  the  jMisitions  and  courses  of  the  great  navigable  rivers. 

In  New  Kngland  and  at  tlie  extreme  north,  where  winter  dwarfs  agri- 
culture, there  are  no  planters,  but  sliijis  are  built,  owned,  and  navigated. 
Here  are  the  marine  of  America,  her  sailors. 

On  the  shores  of  the  ( Julf,  and  where  southern  warmth  invites  men  to 
agriculture,  no  sliips  are  built,  owned,  or  navigated — the  people  here  j-lant 
and  produce  cargoes  i'ov  the  ships  of  the  north — not  a  native  sailor  is 
found  in  these  countries. 

Between  these,  occupying  a  broad  central  belt,  are  the  farmers,  pro- 
ducers of  food.  Tlu'se  latter  eipial  in  number  the  other  two  combined. 
The  firmer  recoils  from  a  southern  sun.  where  beat  forbids  labor,  and 
where  the  culture  of  wheat  and  swine  languishes;  in  like  manner,  ho 
recoils  from  the  long  winter  of  tlie  north,  where  cattle  ami  Indian  corn 
cease  to  yield  abundantly. 

It  is  this  CI  iitriil  Jiirniii'ij  papiihili'iii  which  feed  the  commercial  jieople 
of  the  North  and  the  planting  people  of  the  South,  and  support  them- 
selves and  furnish  for  export.  They  jirecede  all  other  occii]  ants,  and 
liead    the  movement  into  the  wilderness,  where  the   first  reipiisites  are 


I  r 


■I 

mm  il 


:l»  ''f'l 


:i  t  ^'i 


'<% 


1(14 


A /•/•/■:  \f)/.\'. 


t'tiDil  tiiiil  tr;iiis|M)it;itinn.  Vet  it  is  iiinoiiu-  tlio  ('aniiin<;  j)o|)ul;iti(iii  that 
(luiiu'stic  cuniincivi!  liiids  it.s  jiivat  vijluiiic  of  ennpldyincnts— and  aiunnir 
tliciii  arc  re(|uire(i.  first  and  cliicfiy,  tlic  'j:\vi\t  ehamiels  of  trade  wliicii 
find  tlicir  termini  anmnt:-  tiie  titlier  two. 

It  is  tiiis  mass,  wiiieli.  sto]i])ed  liy  the  artilicial  net-work  ol'  in<iri/iiiic 
IKiliii).  is  now  riisliin^'  thron^h  and  tearing  its  meshes  from  their  I'aslen- 
ings.  Jn  resnminu'  their  ancient  vigor,  coneentrated  hy  hing  restraint, 
they  now  demand  a  National  llidlway  to  the  ocean  wiiicli  they  seek. 

What  I  have  here  stated,  .Mr.  (!iiairman  and  f'eliow-eiti/.cMis,  of  tji-n- 
ijrapliirdl  fiictsf.  ai'e  of  my  own  knowledge:  lor  with  the  works  of  Jiewis 
and  Clarke.  Frenionl,  JOmory,  and  lluiidjoldt,  I  have  during  si>:  toilsome 
years  of  war  and  exploration,  traversed  the  countries  they  descrihe,  and 
the  vast  intervals  between,  which  //c-y  have  never  visited. 

In  these  wanderings,  undertidven  of  my  own  will,  I  have  descended  the 
Amies  to  the  I'aeitie  and  returned;  crossed  and  recrossed  Ity  many  routes 
all  the  liasins  of  tlu!  Taui.K  ii.VNDS,  excejiting  oidy  that  of  the  city  of 
-Me.vico,  and  coasted  along  tlie  hase  of  the  Sierra  Madre  from  4.")^  to  'I'y' . 

This  ••  niotiier  range  '  1  have  crossed  and  recro.ssed  at  si.\  diH'erent  jiasses 
in  this  long  interval,  and  its  su]ireme  grandeur  is  stamjied  indelibly  in  my 
memory. 

What  I  have  said  ofyc/Z/cy  is  from  tlu!  mouths  of  those  eminent  states- 
men who  have  contrived  it,  and  those  eijually  eminent  who  have  unsuc- 
cessfully oppo.sed  it. 

T  iiave  exi)re.s.sed  my  convictions  very  positively,  hut  not  immodestly: 
for  in  the  terrible  vastness  of  tlu'se  solitudes,  Nature  speaks  her  iron  will 
from  summits  of  t'ternal  ice,  and  wlu-re  she  frowns  upon  our  advances, 
our  foolish  efforts  shrivel  into  ashes.  It  is,  then,  this  stern  and  certain 
language  of  Nature  that  I  have  sought  to  penetrate,  and  hero  struggle  to 
repeat. 

.Many  routes  for  a  National  Highway,  cunningly  contrived  and  speciou.sly 
reasone(l  out.  ar(>  before  the  jieople — all  these  will  vanish  beneath  exact 
<l(<iijr(iiiliic(d  scrutiny,  for  they  violate  nature  at  haj)-hazard,  with  whom 


hum; 


in  s 


kill  nnist  act  in  unison.     This  unison  is  happily  attainable,  and 


discussion  will  reveal  it. 

JiCt  us.  tlu'ii.  understand  Nature  riuhtlv — let  us  cease  fr 


fli 


'om  conn  let,  am 


feather  our  onward  inarch  in  uiiisini  with  her  beneficent  aid  and  guidaiict 


Tl 


us  "reat  W(nk  ntaxl  come,  aii< 


1  <(>i 


ne  iiDir 


to  t/i, 


us  ijiniriitlitti. 


iSo  ( 


liffi- 


culty  lies  in  the  enterprise  itself — but  such  as  will  instantly  vanish  before 
the  coiiceiitrated  will  and  energies  of  the  peoi)le. 


iiii;-  iHijiulaticiii  timt 
iiit'iits — and  iiiuuiiL' 
lU'ls  (if  tnnlc  Avliicli 

t-work  of  iiKtrlliiiii; 
IVuni  tlu'ir  fistcn- 

1   l>y  IdiiiT  ivstraiiit, 

licli  tlicy  Hc'i'k. 

(i\v-i-itiz(!ns,  (if  ifa- 

tlif  \V(jrks  (»f  Jicwi.s 

diirinji'  six  toilsDiiio 
s  tlk'y  (k!.serilju,  and 
itt'd. 

Iiavi'  dt'sc('n(k'd  the 
sscd  liy  many  mutes 
•  that  of  tho  city  (jf 
IV  from  45=  to  25". 
t  ,six  diflorcnt  jiassos 
qii'd  indclihly  in  my 

hoso  fniincnt  states- 
nt  wlio  iiavo  unsiu;- 

iiit  not  immoch'stly  : 
sjK'aks  lier  ircni  will 
upon  our  advances, 
lis  stiM'u  and  certain 
and  here  struugie  to 

rived  and  speciously 
misli  l)eneath  exact 
-hazard,  witli  whom 
ipily  attainable,  and 

w  from  conflict,  and 
It  aid  and  guidance. 
ncrnfiwi.  2no  diffi- 
tuntly  vanish  befoiv 


III. 
rilOCEKDINGS    OF    A    MASS    MKKTlNd 

OF  TIU;  CITI/.KNS  (IF  .lACKSON  ((IINTV,  AT  INDKI'IAHKNCK,  ON  Till:  .iTII  (iF  MlVF.M 
liKlf,  IM'.i,  To  liKSl'OMI  TOTIIK  ACTION  OF  Till:  (lliKAl' NAI'K  IN  AI,  ISAILUOAD  t'(.lN 
VKNTION,  IIKI.n  IN  ST,   I.OI  IS,  ON  TIIK  l.-.TII   HAY  oF  oCToliFli,  ls4:i. 

0.\  motion  of  .Mr.  J.  W.  .Modie.  Colonel  .Jamks  ('iiii.Ks  was  appointed 
Chairman,  and  on  motion  of  1{.  (J.  Smart.  Ivscj..  .1.  |{.  I'al.MKR  was  ap- 
po 


in 


intt'd  Secretary. 

Colonel  Wll,l,l.\.\i   (iii.pi.N  was  then  called  ii]miii  to  address  the  nieet- 
<i.  and  explain  its  oli 


jl'Ct. 


II. 


e  resiiolKle. 


I   to  th 


i-  call    in  a  speech  wliieli 


an 


terested  and  occuiiied  the  attention  of  tlie  mectinj;'  for  alioiit   one  hour 
d  a  half;   in  conclusion  lie  moved  the  a]i]i(iintmeiit  of  a.  coiiimittce  of 

to  the 


lonsive 


twelve  to  writ(,'  and  re]i(irt  to  the  inet'tinu  resolutions  res] 
action  of  the  ^reat  Convention  at  St.  Jiouis.  The  motion  having:'  lieeii 
adojited,  the  Cliairman  ajipointed  as  the  Committee:  Colonel  William  (iil- 
jiin,  A.  Hrookini;-.  (Jeiieral  S.  D.  Lucas.  Samuel  Kalstoii.  .Major  lioliert 
Itickman,  Colonel  .James  M.  Cogswell.  .James  I'attoii.  K.s(|..  Colonel  Oliver 
Caldwell.  11.  (I.  Smart,  Ks.p,  William  1{,  Singleton,  Alexander  Collins, 


an 


d  S.  II.  Woodson,  Es(|. 


The  ( 


omm 


ittee,  after  consultation,  reiiorted  the  followi 


eport 


in'i'  res( 


)lutions, 


which  were  unanimously  adojited  : — 

1.  licnolnif,  That  we  heartily  and  zealously  approve  of,  and  concur  in, 
the  procecdinj;'  of  the  '■  National  Eailroad  Convention."  held  at  St  Louis 
on  the  L")tli  ultimo. 

2.  lioiiilinl^  That  in  the  great  national  work,  that  shall  connect  the 
two  si'alioards  of  our  country,  and  the  interior  with  the  s(!aboards,  wo 
behold  an  enterprise  as  universal  to  tlu^  inhaliitants  of  our  Ciiion  as  their 
language,  their  politics,  and  their  commerce — a  lioiid  of  unanimous  action, 
and  not  a  lione  of  contention  and  strili'. 

;>.  Jirsttlnd,  That  to  tho  people  of  the  "Valley  of  the  Mississippi," 
intimate  and  direct  eiuineetion  witli  the  seaboards  and  people  of  tlio  Pacific, 


IS  as 


essential  and  as  interesti 


ii"'  as  \vi 


til  those  of  the  .\tlantic. 


4.   Rcsi'Iri'd,  That,  inasmuch 


tl 


IS  our  people  in  tlieir  natural  progressive 


growth  have  extended  their  habitations  across  thetMjntinent,  and  along  the 


l«o 


lil'i 


il:il 


i 


vi 


IGG 


A  ri'J:.\Di\. 


Wosterii  si'alioanl.  it  i?;  mir  diitv,  and  tlie  duty  (if  our  uiivi'riiiiK'iit,  to  pivo 
til  tliifs  new  .si-a hoard,  fleets,  iortitications,  and  arms  lor  dctt'iic-i' — liarlmrs. 
liulit-liouscs,  and  marine  iiolii'c,  for  tlie  iMicourajiemcnt  and  iirotoction  of 
coiiimfrci'  and  lii<;li\va}> — and  a  military  jioiiw  to  conKrm  and  make  siU' 
tlie  connection  with  the  interior. 

5.  llisiilrid.fnrtlirr,  That  a  NATIo.\At<  K.VILHOAI)  I'rom  tiie  Missis.siiijii 
to  the  I'acitic  is  the  most  direct,  economical,  and  constitutional  means  of 
ett'ectin^'  the  above  objects. 

0.  RiKiiInd,  Tiiat.  wliereas  tlie  Almiulity  has  placed  the  territories  of 
the  American  I'nioii  in  the  cknthk,  between  Asia  and  Europe,  and  the 
route  of  tlie  '•  Asiatic  and  Euroiiean  Railway'  through  the  lu'art  of  our 
national  domain,  it  is  our  duty  U)  the  human  family  to  jirosecute.  vigor- 
ously, through  its  iii'W  channel,  that  sujireme  commerce  between  the  Ori- 
ental nations  and  the  nations  of  the  Atlantic,  which  history  proves  to 
have  existed  in  all  ages,  and  to  be  neces.siry  to  keep  alive  comity,  science, 
and  civilization  among  mankind. 

7.  J?(S(Jrr(Jj  That,  whereas  the  people  of  China.  Japan.  Polynesia,  and 
Southern  America  now  receive  from  Hritish  India  (i<j rlcult n nil prwhuc 
(raw  and  manufactured  cotton,  indigo,  opium,  ric.',  wool,  etc.)  to  the 
amount  of  §15(1,(1(1(1,(1(1(1,  annually;  we  believe  these  same  people  will 
take  from  the  Americans,  //( jirrfrrinci',  more  than  twice  this  amount  of 
agricultural  jiroducc  (substituting  toliacco  for  opium,  and  flour  and  meats 
for  rice),  so  soon  a.s  the  barrier  of  the  J{ocky  Mountains  be  removed  by  a 
National  Kailway. 

H.  I?i's(ifi((/,  That,  apart  from  the  great  benefits  which  shall  accrno  to 
lis  and  the  other  nations  of  the  Atlantic  from  this  National  Kailwaj',  we 
regard  it  as  a  beneficent  dimnsfic  v;i>rk,  to  open  to  our  ])enjile  access  to  the 
immense  and  glorious  domain  of  the  Plains,  the  Sierra  Madre,  the  great 
Table  Lands,  and  the  Andes,  known  to  alxiund  in  metals,  mountains  and 
lakes  of  salt,  mountains  if  plaster  and  marble,  thermal  and  medicinal 
springs,  wild  cattle,  salubrious  climates,  sulphur,  coal,  lumber,  arable  and 
])astoral  lands  of  the  finest  (juality,  and  stajile  productions  uidimited  in 
variety  and  abundance. 

1*.  licxiihuii.  That,  whereas,  during  the  last  thirty  years,  the  generation 
of  our  fatlu'is  has  <;overed  the  eastei'u  half  of  our  continent  with  States, 
and,  commencing  witli  the;  Xi'w  York  Canal  in  ISIS,  lias  everywlu're  ren- 
dered the  connection  betwei'ii  the  '•  ^'alley  of  the  Mississijijii"  and  the 
Atlantic  seaboard  complete,  and  carried  the  comi'ierce  of  the  Atlantic  to 
the  grandest  develoi)ment — it  is  the  high  and  glorious  mission  and  duty 
of  ii.s  their  sons  and  heirs,  of  the  growing  generation,  //(  l!lc<'  iikiiiih  r,  to 
cover  the  western  half  of  the  continent  with  States,  to  render  complete 


Git  EAT  KATIOXAL   RAILROAD   CO.S'YEyTIOX. 


lt!7 


with  pvat  works  the  connection  of  the  "  Valley  of  tlie  Mississi]i|ii"  with 
the  I'aeilic  .seaboard,  and  expand  upon  the  Pacitie  Ocean  a  siinihirly  niai;- 
nitiicnt  commerce. 

10.  Jus(i/rr</.  That  we  earnestly  entreat  our  fellow-citizt'ns,  in  all  .■sec- 
tions of  our  Union,  to  unite  with  us  in  this  cnitntl  domeMiv  work  in  pref- 
erence to  di.ssipatinji  the  national  energies  upon  circuitous  routes,  runninj;' 
iRsu'the  ('(juator,  throufih  f'oreij;n  countries  beyond  nur  control,  and  certain 
to  involve  us  in  the  competitions,  the  jealousies,  and  the  hostile  interests 
of  foreigners  and  rivals. 

n.  /iV,st</(V'(/,  That  we  invite  our  fellow-citizens  throughout  the  State 
to  a.ssemble  in  their  counties  and  cities,  and  join  in  a  general  aiid  unani- 
mous resjionse  to  the  St.  Louis  Convention,  and  unite  with  us  in  respect- 
fully instructing  our  Reju'csentatives  and  Senators  in  Congress  to  vote  for 
suth  nii'asures  as  maybe  introduced  at  the  coming  session  of  our  National 
Legislaturi'  to  carry  out  the  views  embodied  in  the  foregoing  resulutions. 

lli.  Risiihrd,  That  the  Secretary  of  this  Ma.ss  Meeting  forward  to  each 
of  iiur  Representatives  and  Senators  in  Congress  a  copy  of  these  resolutions. 

Mr.  George  W.  Khoades  offered  the  tbllowing  resolutions: — 

1.  Rtso/vid,  That  Colonel  (lilpiu  be  recpu'sted  to  write  out  for  publica- 
tion the  s]ieech  made  by  him  to  this  meeting  on  to-day. 

2.  Nisofrcil,  That  the  '•  Missouri  Commonwealth,"  and  all  other  papers 
ill  this  State  friendly  to  a  jiroject  of  constructing  a  National  Railroad  to 
the  I'acitic  from  the  '•  Valley  of  the  3.lississipiii,"  be  recjuested  to  publish 
the  proceedings  of  this  meeting. 


!  1 


mm 


'!     i 


i  M 


I"V. 


PIKE'S   PEAK   AND   THE   SIERRA   SAN  JUAN. 

EXTRACTS  FltOM  AN  AlMIHK.vS  I)Y  COI.dXEL  WILLIAM  (JILI'IN,  1)KL1VF,I!I',I>  AT 
KANSAS  CUY,  NdVKMltKIl  15,  1858;  ON  TUK  fidLU  I'UODIXTIUN  OF  AJIKUIC'A 
AND  TllK  SIKltltA  SAN  .IIAN. 

I  sruMiT  to  your  inspection  three  iniqis.  Tlie  first  is  u  "  Ilydro- 
liTiiiiliie  Map  of  North  America, "  exhihitinj:-  in  dajiuerreotyjie  the  iihysical 
divisions  of  our  eontinent;  the  second  is  a  niaji  of  tlie  worhl,  exhihiting 
America  in  tlie  centre,  between  Asia  and  Europe,  and  luiving  delineated 
upon  it  the  Isothermal  Zodiac  of  Nations,  filling  the  north  temperate  zone 
of  tiie  lilolie  ;  the  third  is  a  maj)  of  the  '•  Rasin  of  the  3Iississi]i])i." 

Physical  geojiraphy  arranjics  the  suri'ace  of  the  eontiiu'iits  into  basins 
anil  the  mountain  crests  which  divide  them.  Thus  the  basin  of  the  Mis- 
sissij)pi  is  that  surface  which,  being  drained  by  all  the  confluent  branches 
of  this  river,  discharges  its  fresh  waters  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

This  surface  is  an  undulating,  calcareous  plain  of  1,2()(M)00  S((uarc 
miles  of  area :  it  is  eud)raced  entirely  within  the  temperate  zone  :  occu- 
pies the  heart  and  splendors  of  our  continent :  and  is  the  most  magnifi- 
cent dwelling-place  marked  out  by  God  for  man's  abode. 

Three  more  similar  r<i/<(iirciis  basins,  each  drained  by  a  single  system  of 
rivers  :  the  basin  of  the  St.  Lawrence  :  the  basin  of  the  Saskatchewan  of 
Hudson  Ray ;  and  the  arctic  basin  of  the  Athabasca,  resting  upon  one 
another  and  ujion  the  liasin  of  the  ]Missi.«sippi,  form  together  one  continu- 
ous exjianse,  geologically  uniform  and  identical. 

This  immen.se  expanse  defines  itself  as  the  Cnlcareovn  Plain  uf  North 
Awcri'cd.  Limestone,  horizontally  stratified,  underlies  this  whole  expanse, 
being  formed,  like  cheese  from  milk,  from  the  sediment  and  pressure  of 
the  ocean  which  once  rolled  over  it,  but  has  now  retired. 

This  adcuirniis  plain,  thus  forming  a  unit  in  jihysical  goograjjliy,  em- 
braces four-sevenths  of  the  area  of  our  continent.  It  is  encompassed  all 
round  by  a  circuit  of  primary  mountains,  within  which  it  forms  an  amjilii- 
theatre. 

1G8 


These  mou 

diUeras  of  tlu 

mouths  of  the 

oceans.     'I'hi- 

towards   the 

covers  t\vo-se\ 

External  t 

by   the  mean 

the  third  uni 

the  area  of  oi 

Behold,   tl 

simple,  comp 

Mountain  V< 

The  i/ruloi 

magnitude  o 

('itli'ii'iiii.i  1 

tally  dciiosit 

presenting  t 

elevated  vert 

ba.se  partly  i 

Everybod 

plished  by  ] 

moulds.     K; 

cools,  into  a 

earth  has  h 

tating  spher 

Geology  ( 

ranged  itsel 

successive  c 

Specijic  ; 

upon  the  t 

metallit'eroi 

precious  mi 

tained  in  tl 

holds  in  th 

tended  dist 

It  is  vol 

production 

Pikes  Pci 

Spicijic 

metids  ma 


SAN  JUAN. 


Plk'ES  PEAK  A.\l>    Tin:   Sir.l!l!.\    .SM.V  J  VAX. 


ir.9 


Those  mountains  are  the  AUejihaiiics,  towards  tlic  Atlantic  ;  the  Cor- 
Jillcnis  (if  tile  Sierra  Madre  and  tin-  Amh's,  tnwanls  t  I'acitic.  Tlie 
mouths  of  tile  jxreat  rivei>  form  tlie  iluurs  or  outlets  thrnujih  tliem  to  the 
oceans.  This  eireumferent  wall  of  niduntains  is  of  immense  breadth 
towards  the  Paeitie.  It  is  the  seeoiid  unit  in  iihysieal  ^eoj;' aphy,  and 
covers  two-sevenths  of  tiie  area  of  our  eontinent. 

External  to  the  Mountain  Formation  is  the  Muritiim:  Slu^ic,  washed 
by  the  oeeans,  and  jienetrated  Ity  the  tides.  This  external  division  is 
tlie  third  unit  in  physical  geograjdiy,  and  fornix  all  round  one-scveiith  of 
the  area  of  our  eontinent. 

Behold,  then,  the  pliysieal  arranjioment  of  our  continent  ;  at  onec 
siiii]ile.  coinijlete.  an  '  sublime: — the  Calcareous  IMain,  four-sevenths;  the 
Mountain  Formation,  two-sevenths;  the  Maritime  Slope,  one-sevntli. 

The  ijKilmjlail  .strueture  of  our  continent  has  the  same  order,  a  like 
iiiaunitude  of  dimensions  and  arraniremeiits,  a  jiarallel  simplicity.  The 
i'liliiiiiDHK  I'liiln  is  a  uniform  .ecoudary  formation  of  limestone,  horizon- 
tally deposited  and  stnititied.  The  Mitunlida  Fonimtion  is  of  granite, 
jireseiitiiig  the  primeval  crust  of  the  globe  rent  by  volcanic  forces  and 
elevated  vertically.  The  Mmifi'inc  S/',pr  presents  the  external  mountain 
ba.se  partly  revealed,  and  partly  covered  l>y  the  washings  of  tin;  sea. 

J]verybody  is  familiar  with  the  manufacture  of  shot.  This  Is  aceom- 
jilished  iiy  jiouring  liquid  lead,  at  a  high  elevation,  through  perforated 
moulds.  Each  pellet  of  lead,  descending  through  the  air,  is  formed,  as  it 
cools,  into  a  sphere,  by  the  invisible  I'orce  of  gravity.  The  globe  of  the 
earth  has  had  a  similar  origin — once  a  liijuid  mass,  now  a  solid,  gravi- 
tating .sjihere,  such  as  we  inliabit  it. 

Geology  explains  how  the  material  ma.ss  of  this  great  sphere  has  ar- 
ranged itself,  in  cooling,  into  layers  eiiveloiiing  one  another,  like  the 
succissive  coatings  of  an  onion. 

Sjiccijic  ff runt ff  awownts  for  the  relative  position  of  these  layers,  one 
ujioii  the  other,  and  explains  to  us  when  and  how  to  penetrate  to  their 
metalliferous  contents.  It  is  in  the  ^(c/y/** /v^n-ocks  exclusively  that  thj 
lirecious  metals  and  precious  stones  are  found.  The  ba.se  metals  arc  con- 
tained in  the  calcanons  or  secondary  rocks.  The  same  stupendous  scale 
holds  in  the  abundance  of  the  metals,  their  purity,  and  their  widely  ex- 
tended distribution. 

It  is  your  request  that  I  speak,  specially,  on  this  evening,  of  the  gold 
production  of  our  country,  and  specifically  of  the  reg'on  surrounding 
I'ike  s  Peak  and  the  Sii  r  a  San  Juan. 

Ayi'(//fc  ^)VH(Vy  guides  us  to  discover  the  rocks  in  which  the  precious 
metiils  may  be  found,  and  where  they  are  totally  absent.    If  into  a  hollow 


vM 


'    i 


m 


1       : 


'!) 


:i 


170 


APPESniS. 


\)\\\-M  111' u;iit>s  tluTi'  111'  jiourcd  ii  ([uart  nf  (juicksilvcr,  niio  of  wiitcr,  diic  df 
oil,  iiiiil  one  iit'iili'iiliiil,  tli('S(!  Iii|uiils  will  rest  mic  ii]i(iii  tlic  ntln  r.  in  tliis 
(inlcr :  if  w  jiifcc  dt"  jiold.  'if  inm,  uf  wuod.  ami  a  feather,  lie  tlii'dwn  in, 
they  will  .»iiik  :   the  jidld  t(i  the  Lottoiii,  the   irciii  t(i  the  (iuieksii\rr,  the 


w 


•  Kid  ti)  the  water,  the  feather  to  the  oil. 


ifll 


lis  mass  he  emitie; 


laled  to  iee,  this  iirrati"vment  will  remain  sniiil 


!II1>1 


jierijiaiieiit  :   the  ji'iild  must  lie  .sdiiuht  fur  stiHiiicnturij  to  the  <|uieksilver ; 
the  iiiiii  aliuve  it.  but  siilhin iiluri/  to  the  water;   the  wood  sedimentary  to 


the  oil.      Ill  the  ureal  oriler  of  nature, 


u  similar  arraii^iemen 


t  hul 


lis  in  till' 


nicks  whieli  eomiin.su  the  ^lnlie  of  the  earth,  and  in  their  cunteiits,  ihru 
all  liiiuiil.  lint  now  iiermaneiitly  sulid  in  the  order  uf  tlu'ir  relative  sjinijic 


mil, 


nd 


lur 


Miles 
lu, 


(/i(iri/iis.  It  is  the  piliiuvnl  mass,  then,  of  the  Mountain  Fnriiiat 
wliieh  alone  i.s  imrlfcrunx,  and  within  it  only  eau  the  jireeimis  metals, 
csjieeially  uold,  he  .souj;ht  for  with  Hueeess. 

The  Mountain  Formation,  whieli  oeenpies  the  western  iinrtiuii  uf  i 
continent  to  the  extent   of  two-sevenths  of  its  whole  area,  etnisi.'^ts  of  tin 
Cordillera  of  the  Sierra   Mailre  on  the  east,  the  ("urdillera  of  the  .\ 
on  the  west,  and  the  Plateau  of  the  Table  Jiands  embraced  between  tin 
It  ix  uiiijoniili/ priimvdl  niiil  mrj/ic/urr  (iiiri/'crnKs. 

The  JMateau  of  the  Table  Lands  eomnu'iiees  abovc^  Teluiantejiec.  where 
the  Corililleras  beiiin  to  mien  I'rom  one  another.  It  runs  tliiiiiiL;li  the 
continent  to  Behring's  Strait,  and  is  1000  mile.s  in  width,  in  mir  latitiulo 
Q]\)°). 

The  general  elevation  of  its  surface  is  OUOd  feet  above  the  .sea;  that  of 
the  Cordilleras  is  12,000  feet.  The  Plateau  is  traver.sed  aeni.ss  by  ureat 
mountain  chains,  which  subdiviile  it  into  basins.  Thife  of  the.si'  basins 
contain,  resjiectively,  the  jjreat  rivers  the  Columbia,  the  Culoradu,  and 
tlu!  Rio  del  Norte,  whieli  uor^v  the  Cordilleras  and  escape  to  the  seas. 


Th 


ither  basins  contain  the  stagnant  lakes,  the  (jreat  Salt  hake,  th 


Lajxuna,  and  the  Lake  of  the  City  of  Mexico;  these  have  no  outlets  or 


Ira  inane 


to  th 


e  seas. 


Of  tl 


lese  moun 


tain  chains  the  most  interestiiin  ti 


us 


is  the  Sierra  Mimbrcs.  This  divides  asunder  the  basins  of  the  Colo- 
rado and  the  Del  Norte,  which  rest  against  it  as  a  baekbone. 

It  leaves  the  wcufern  flank  of  the  Cordillera  of  the  Sierra  Madre  in 
latitude  o!*°,  and,  traversing'  the  Plateau  by  a  due  southern  course  for 
1400  miles,  joins  the  Cordillera  of  the  Andes  in  the  Mexican  State  of 


D 


uraiiirii.  Ill  latitude 


Tl 


us  mmintain  chain  is  volcanic,  coiitaiiuiii; 


craters  and  the  overflow  of  lava.     The  Cordillera  of  the  Andes  is  also 
volcanic. 


Th 


e.sc  mountain  chains  consis 


t  of  the  primeval  rocks,  broken  fi 


oni 


tl 


leir 


original  positions,  heaved  up  edgewise  by  the  exjiansive  power  of  the  in- 


■r,  one  of  water,  diic  (,f 

'il'oii   the  (.tiler,  ill  tlii., 

feather,  I.e   tliniwn  in. 

til  tlle   (|llieksilver,  thf 

lit  will  remain  snjiil  jnni 
'"•y  t<i  the  i|iiiek>ilver; 

the  wiMid  .sediiiieiitiirv  tn 

iaii;;-eiiieiit  lu.id.s  in  th,,. 

in  their  (•diiteiit.s.  una' 

if  their  relative  K/mijic 

3Iounfaiii    Funnatinn, 

the  jireeidiis  nielals,  ;iiul 

'■  we.stern  ]i(irti(iii  i,\'  (mr 
Kile  area,  (•(in.si.>ts  ,,\'  the 
('•irdillera  (if  the  Amies 
rniliraeed  lietween  them. 

ove  Toliiiantcpec.  wiiere 
.  It  runs  throii-h  the 
in  width,  in  onr  latitude 

t  above  the  sea  ;  tliat  of 
raver.sed  aern.><,s  hv  i;reat 
TliiTo  of  these  hasins 
iliia.  the  Colorado,  and 
<l  eseape  to  tin?  seas. 
he  Great  Salt  l.ake,  the 
ie.se  have  no  outlets  or 
the  most  inti'restint;  to 
the  basins  of  the  Colo- 
liaekbone. 

f  the  Sierra  IVfadre  in 

Hi  soutliern  eoiir.se  tor 

the  Mexieaii   State  of 

is  voleanie,  eontainiiiir 

of  the  Andes  is  al.so 

)ek.s,  broken  from  their 
insive  power  of  the  in- 


I'lKF/S   PEAK  A.\n    rilK   SI  Kit  It. \    .s'.l.V  ./f'.l.V. 


tcriial  tires  of  the  jihilie,  and  revealed  tu  siL:ht  and  search 


M. 


171 


ih 


CoWado  River,  in  e.scajiinj;  to  the  sea,  pirii'es  the  Cordillera  of  tlie  .\ndes 
diagonally,  liaving  rent  its  way  by  a  eliasin  boreil  throie/ii  tlie  very  bowels 
iif  the  Cordillera,  iithwart  from  base  to  base.  This  eliasm.  HH)  miles  in 
Ici'utli,  i-*  known  aw  tiie  Canon  of  tlii'  Colorado. 

This  eanoii  presents  the  uni(|Ue  and  novel  fact  to  inaiikind,  that  a  pii- 
iiiaiy  nioiiiitain  ehaiii  whose  summit  is  of  the  iiiiii/rrniis  /v/c/.s,  is  thus 
Mciij;ed  to  its  foundations,  many  thou.sand  feet  in  depth  !  It  is  here,  upon 
the  I'lateaii,  in  the  areaiia  of  the  mountain  formation,  ami  the  activity  of 
the  stupendous  forjxcs  of  nature,  that  the  precious  nietuls  may  be  sought 
in  mass  and  in  ]Misitioii. 

Moreover,  the  Sierra  Mimbres,  where  its  southern  lialf  bisects  the 
.Mexican  Slates  of  Duranjio  and  Chihuahua,  contains  twenty-one  mines 
iif.-ilver,  which,  wrought  for  three  centuries  by  the  Spaniards,  have  fur- 
iii-iiied  the  world  with  its  silver  coin  and  bullion.  Moreover,  where  the 
Sierra  Mimbres,  in  its  course  to  the  north,  approaches  to  its  junction  with 
tli'j  Sierra  3Iadre,  it  increases  to  a  prodigious  bulk. 

It  rises  to  tlie  altitude  of  [lerpetual  snow,  and  a,ssuines  for  2(MI  miles 
the  local  name  of  »SV''/vv<  <S''/*/  Jimn.  lle.e  it  is  that  the  dislocation  of 
nature  by  volcanic  forces,  and  the  coiise(pient  metalliferous  develo|inieiit, 
attain  their  hij^hest  culmination. 

What  is  about  to  follow  the  arrival  of  our  pioneer  people  within  this 
region,  may  be  exactly  illustrated  by  what  is  already  done  within  the 
rei;io:<  of  the  great  Colcdnons  Phtln. 

We  have  seen  that  the  ailcnni/iis  plain,  being  formed  beneath  a  great 
ocean,  condensed  from  its  filtration  and  by  its  pressure,  eontains  only  the 
base  metals,  copjier,  iron,  lead,  zinc.  A  metalliferous  band  of  these  metals 
is  traceil  diagonally  aero.ss  it,  traversing  from  Southwestern  Texas,  through 
that  State,  throiigli  Arkansas,  Missouri,  Wisconsin,  brushing  the  shores 
of  Lake  Superior  and  of  Hudson  Hay,  to  the  ocean  shore  opposite  Green- 
land. 

Points  of  culmination  of  these  various  metals  are  found  where  they 
reveal  themselves  above  the  general  surface  ///  iiikss  mid  in  jiositinn.  Thus, 
iron  ajipears  in  3Iiss  luri  in  native  jiurity,  iirotruding  in  mountain  masses 
over  many  hundred  sipiare  miles  of  surface  ;  the  .same  is  the  form  of 
copjier  adjacent  to  Jjake  Superior  ;  so  also  with  lead  in  Missouri  and  in 
Wisconsin, 

Now,  the  same  arrangement  characterizes  the  immen.se  jirimeval  forma- 
tion which  occupies  our  eontineiit  from  Cape  Horn  to  IJehring's  Strait,  and 
which  is  throughout  im])regnated  with  the  precious  metals  I  As  goKI  is  every- 
where else  found  within  it  in   the  form  of  "rains  or  .scales,  or  minute 


u 


' 


i 


172  API'ESDIS. 

Iiiiiilis :  HO  is  it  jHi.ssililc  for  it  to  culiiiinnfc  in  inas.--  mnl  In  iifisitinn.  wluic 
tlic  aiirilrniiis  nn-ks  iirc  uplu'tivcd  to  tiina  tiic  vcrticiil  iiiiiss<'s  ol'  tiie 
Sierra  S.ni  ilii.in  ami  tiic  Andes,  ami  arc  liifii  gorj;t!d  into  tluir  liiiwilsliy 
tlu'  eariiiii  of  tiie  ('iilnrado. 

'riic  search  fur  udld  lias  lieretofore  eoiitiiied  itself  to  tlie  cxtcnia!  tlmiio 
of  tlu!  jiriiiieval  immiilains,  wlicri'  tliey  fnnit  the  sea,  and  where  the  livcis 
descend  from  (heir  liack.s.  Why  it  has  Iiere  hcen  found  onlv  in  ;zniiiis, 
scales,  and  small  lnni|)s  may  he  thus  illustrated;  1  (<ti|)|i()sc  myself  at  iiiv 
cainji-lire  in  the  wilderness,  enua.iicil  in  huilin^  rice:  into  a  eam|i-kettli' df 
boiliui:  water  I  thmw  a  cu|i  of  rice.  This  rice,  after  a  time.  .M'ttlcs  l.y  its 
siivctjlc  i/ntn'fi/  into  a  .sedimentary  mass  heneath  tho  water — the  water 
above  ri'tains  a  milky  whiteness.  This  whiteness  is  due  to  the  ineseiici' 
of  miniile  jiarticles  of  rice;  remaininjj;  siisjiended  throu.:h  the  Kody  nf 
the  fluid.  Being  frozen  into  ice.  this  comlition  remains  ii.\ed  in  solid 
form. 

The  |>resencc  of  the  e-old  in  the  auriferous  rocks  has  had  a  similar  mi- 
gin,  and  iireseiits  identical  conditions.  It  is  the  attrition  of  the  elements 
ii]n)n  the  surface  rocks  and  veins  oidy  that  have  as  yet  attracted  at- 
tention. It  i.s  hciititth  tliatwe  must  search  for  tlie  .sedimentary  mass;  the 
possihility  to  do  wliich  now  Hrst  jir"sents  itself  as  \\v  advance  within  the 
lal)yiinth  of  the  volcanic  masses  and  caMons  (d'the  Plateau. 

My  own  ]iersonal  exjierience,  earned  during  three  military  cxiieilitioiis 
made  between  the  years  1844-49,  rendered  desperate  from  the  then  un- 
known complication  of  the  country  added  to  the  numerical  strength  and 
savage  character  of  the  Indians,  is  not  wit'   uit  value. 

The  facts  then  and  since  collected  liy  nn>  are  so  numerous  and  so  posi- 
tive, that  I  entertain  an.  ah.soliite  conviction,  derived  fl-om  them,  that 
yuJil  ill  iiKtKs  and  ill  posi/ion  and  infinite  in  ((uantity  will,  within  the  coming 
three  years,  reveal  itself  to  the  I'liergy  of  our  j)ioneers.  All  the  jirecions 
metals  and  precious  stones  will  also  reveal  themselves  in  equal  abiuulancc 
in  this  region  so  propitious  to  their  production. 

Such  a  develonment  has  nothing  in  it  speculative  or  theo-etieal.  Tt 
comes  of  necessity  in  tho  order  of  time,  ami  as  an  intnitabh'  se(|ucnce  to 
the  planting  of  empire  in  Texas,  in  California,  in  Oregon,  in  Kansas,  and 
in  Utah. 

As  these  other  develojunents  have  preced(Ml  it  in  the  order  of  time,  and 
encompa.ss  it  all  round,  this  now  comes  to  unite,  to  complete,  to  consinn- 
mat(!  the  rest,  and  to  give  form  and  jiower  and  sjilendor  to  the  whole. 

Tlie  inquiry  which  acqutiints  us  with  the  climate,  the  agricidtur(>,  and 
the  domestic  gefigrajiliy  (d' this  immense  region,  is  still  ei(ually  interesting 
and  imjiortant  as  its  metals.      It  was  uiion  the  summit  of  this  jilateau, 


/'/ 

^vliiiv  it  trave 
M(inti'/iima  ai 
every  otlier  p' 
The  distam- 
l,y  the  :.:reat  I 
.,11,1  aMendin;. 

iiiiiiiiiiiiin  ''■'" 
vise  fiiiin  belli 

Pikes  Pea 
is  the  alirupi 
|initniding  c; 
; tlier  the 

Wlure   thl 

,_,!■;, lid    Jncil/   I 

This  /"">/  p 

(;',!P>.  is  alio 

'fh.'diivel 

wesleni    ilali 

Peak,  kiiowi 

River  of  the 

dl'  their  juii 

fur  2IMI  mile 

waters  of  \')n 

Tlie  soiitl 

Niirte   IVoiii 

Platte    Hive 

Miiiimit,  i'roi 

depart. 

Upon  tin 
Cirande  of 
Uio  del  No 
and  Kagle 
canons. 

'flu!  pan 
riveis  whic 
(if  singulai 
one  anotbi 
of  the  rivi 
Behold, 
sunnounti. 
variety  of 


:l 


'  vcrticiil   iii;,,ss,..H  ,,r  the 
';:<'<1  iiitu  their  Im.wcIs  |,y 

"■»«'  Hi,.  ..xtniKil  fl„„ks 

"•'fl,   .-Mill  Whciv  til,.   |.j^.,,fj 

■III  Himid  ,.iik  ill  -niiiis, 

I    SIljtJioM'  lll_V>clf  ;it  iiiv 

' :   iiitoii  cjiiiiii-k.nl,.  „(■ 
't<'i'  ;i  time,  settles  |,v  its 
till!  water— th,.  «;ii,.,. 
■'N  is  due  to  tlu"  preseiKr 
I   tlirnll-li    tlie   ImmIv  ,,f 
1   rcinains   fixed   in  >„,|i,l 

•ks  liiis  had  !i  siiiiii.ir  eii- 
attrilidii  (,f  til,,  ,.1,.„„,|„^ 
ave  as  yet  attracted  af- 
10  sedimentary  mass  ;  the 
IS  we  advam-e  within  the 
II'  I'hiteau. 

Iirce  military  oxi.editidiis 
icrato  Jroin  the  then  im- 
'  muiierieal  streii-ih  and 
iiluo. 

•'•  nmnerouH  and  so  \h\A- 
I'rivi'd  fVoiii  tli.'iii,  that 
y  will,  within  the  eoniiiiir 
loors.  All  tlio  precious 
'Ives  in  oijiial  aliiindaiicc 

itivc  or  theo'-otieah  It 
I  inovitiiblo  soqiicnce  to 
Orc^'on,  in  Kansas,  and 

I  the  order  of  time,  and 
to  comidete.  to  consiiiii- 
^n(h)r  to  tho  whole, 
tc.  tho  aprictdture.  and 
still  e<(iially  interesting 
iinnnit  of  thi.s  plateau, 


I'iKK's  rt:.\K  AMI  nil:  s/i:i;i;.\  s.\.\  ,/r.i.v.  17;', 

wlnre  it  traverses  Mexico  aini  I'clll.  thai  the  sellli-civili/.cil  enijiires  of 
Mniitr/iima  ami  the  Ineas  were  found,  wlien  a  sterile  harliari^m  peiNadccI 
I'xcrv  oilier  portion  of  the  coniincnl    if  .\nierica. 

The  distance  hence  to  i'iki's  I'eak  is  le>.-.  than  ViMI  mile-..  It  is  readii'il 
liV  liii'  great  ro;id  of  ihc  .\ikansas  Itiver.  traversing  straight  to  llie  west. 
Mini  ;i>cclidillg  the  inipeiceptilile  grade  of  the  (Ircal  Plains  clear  to  the 
Miiiiiiii.'iiii  liasr.  liojil  is  here  ili»co\ei'ed  as  soon  as  the  primeval  rocks 
ri«c  from  heiicilli  the  calcareous  plain. 

J'ikcs  I'e.ik.  which  rises  to  the  ailitilde  of  I  {..'illll  feet  aliove  the  sea, 
i^  the  alniipl  lolossd  termination  of  tiie  nioiiniain  proinoiitorv.  which, 
jii'iiti'iiding  eastward  from  the  Cordillera  liHi  miles,  sunders  from  one 
;iii(illicr  the  sources  of  the  South  I'lalte  and  llie  .\rkaiisas  liiveis. 

Where  this  proinontoiy  connects  with  the  Cordillera  is  a  supremely 
i;i;iiid  I'liiiil  point  of  primaiy  inoiiiitain  chains,  j.riniary  rivers,  and  pares. 
Tiiis  /<'((//  point  is  in  the  same  latitude  as  San  l-'raiicisco  and  St.  Louis 
(li'.C  I.  is  ahoiit  llfiX)  miles  from  each,  and  in  the  centre  lietweeii  them. 

The  direction  of  the  Coi'ilillera  is  from  umtlitrisl  tit  sonl/nuxf.  l''rom  its 
in   flank   protrudes  a   pronioiit(U'V,  lialancing  and  similar  to    I'ike's 


Wcsle 

I'c'ik.  known  as  i']lk  .Mountain  :  it  sunders  from  one  another  the  (iraiid 
llivei'  of  the  Colorado  and  the  Kagle,  terminal  it ig  aliruplly  within  the  angle 
el' tliiir  jiiiictioii.  Jladiatiiig  due  south  is  the  Sii/fi  .)//'//////'.<,  known 
liir  lilill  miles  liy  the  snowy  pe;iks  ol"  Smi  Jnuii  ;  this  chain  sunders  tlu; 
waters  of  Kagle  River  from  the  iiio  del  Norte. 

The  southern  arm  of  the  Conlillera  sunders  the  waters  of  the  Hio  del 
Nolle  from  the  Arkansas  Itivcr:  the  iioilheiii  arm.  tl.i'  waters  of  tho 
I'latte  Itiver  from  the  Jlio  (Jraiide  of  the  Colorado.  Such  is  this  focal 
Miiiiinit,  from  wliiili  live  primary  mountains  and  live  rivers  simullaneously 
ileparl. 

Upon  tho  Platte  is  the  pare  known  as  the  I5ayou  Salado  :  upon  the  l!io 
(irando  of  tho  Colorado,  the  pare  known  as  the  Middle  J'arc  ;  upon  the 
Hio  del  \orte.  the  pare  called  the  l?ayou  of  San  Luis.  Tlie  Arkansas 
and  Kagle  Hivers  have  no  pares:  they  delile  outward  through  stupendous 
canons. 

The  pares,  scooped  out  of  the  main  doisil  mass  of  tho  Cc  dillera  hy  tho 
rivers  which  liisect  them.  are.  each  oiieof  them,  an  immense  iini/i/ii/lniitri' 
of  singular  heaiity.  fertility,  and  temperate  atmosphere;  they  approach 
one  another  where  they  rest  againsi  the  Cor<liilera  at  thi'  extreme  sources 
ui'  the  rivers. 

IJehold,  then,  the  panorama  which  s , lutes  the  vision  of  one  who  ha.s 
surmounted  this  supreme  i'ocal  suiiiiiiit  of  the  Cordillera!  Infinite  in 
variety  of  features;  each  feature  intiiise  in  the  magnitude  and  the  gran- 


H 

h 


f. 


f:  -1 


171 


Ar/'EXDrx. 


:i    ' 


lit} 


dour  of  its  mould;  in  front,  in  rear,  and  on  citlicr  hand.  Xatur(>  ascrndini' 
in  all  licr  ck'nicnts  to  tlic  .xtandiird  of  superlative  snliliniity ! 

]}eneatli,  tlie  family  of  Pares:  around,  the  radiating- harks  of  the  iiri- 
meval  mountains:  the  jirimary  rivers  startintr  to  the  seas:  aliuve.  tlio 
ethereal  eanopy  intcn.sely  hhio,  eflul<rent  witli  the  unelouded  sini  liv  dnv, 
and  stars  liy  niuht :  to  the  east,  the  undidatini;-  plains,  expandin;^  nui'  liim 
dred  leaLi'Ues.  to  di]i.  like  the  ocean,  heneath  the  eneirclinir  horizon  :  to  tin; 
west,  the  sulilime  I'lati'au,  eheekeri'd  hy  voleanie  peaks  and  nie.-as,  eli;iii- 
nclled  as  a  lahyrinth  hy  the  profound  jrorgcs  of  tlie  streams! 

It  is  manifest  with  what  ease  the  pioneers,  alri'ady  enpiL'ed  in  niiiiiii',' 
at  the  entraneeof  the  I?ayou  Salado.  wdl  in  another  si'ason  asi-end  throiiiih 
it  to  the  Cordillera,  surmount  its  crests,  and  descend  into  the  Hayou  San 
Luis.  They  will  dovi'lop  at  every  stop  gold  in  new  and  increasini; 
abundanec. 

Besides,  access  is  e((ually  facile  l>y  the  Huerfano,  an  affluent  of  tlio 
Arkansas  coming  down  from  the  Siianish  Peak,  KM)  miles  farther  to  tlu' 
south.  From  New  Mexico,  the  apjiroach  is  by  ascending  the  IJio  liravn 
del  Norte.  The  snowy  battlements  of  the  Sierra  San  Juan  form  tlie  west- 
ern wall  of  the  Bayou  San  Luis.  From  its  middle  flank  the  Sierra  San 
Juan  projects  to  the  southwest  a  chain  of  remarkable  volcanic  mountains, 
known  as  the  Sierra  La  I'lata  (silver  mountain).  This  chain  divides 
a.sunder  the  waters  of  the  (Ireat  Colorado  from  the  Rio  San  Juan,  ami, 
filling  the  angle  of  their  junction,  forms  the  perpendicular  wail  "f  tlio 
Groat  Canon. 

It  is  to  this  remarka})le  mountain  chain,  and  its  surrounding  region. 
that  I  have  desired  to  conduct  you,  and  here  stop,  in  the  mid-t  of  tlie 
veritable  arcana  of  the  ^lountain  Formation  anil  its  metalliferous  elements. 

The  Sierra  La  Plata  is  -idO  miles  in  length,  having  its  course  v  r;<t-,s(iutli- 
west.  Along  its  dorsal  crest  are  volcanic  masses  penetrating  to  perjietna! 
snow ;  its  flanks  descend  by  immense  terraces  of  carboniferous  and  sul- 
phurous limestone.  All  formations  of  the  globe  liere  come  together, 
mingle  with  one  another,  ac(|uiro  harmony,  and  arrange  themselves  >iiK' 
by  side  in  gigantic  proj)ortions. 

Lava,  porphyritic  granite,  sandstone,  limestone,  the  precious  and  h.iso 
metals,  precious  stones,  salt,  marble,  coal,  thermal  and  medicinal  streams, 
fantastic  mountains  called  cristonos,  or  abrupt  peaks,  level  mesas  of  great 
fertility,  canons,  delicious  valleys,  rivers,  and  great  forests;  all  these,  ami 
a  thousand  other  varieties,  find  room,  appear  in  succession,  in  perfect  order 
and  in  perfectly  graceful  proportions. 

Benioteness  i'rom  the  sea.  and  altitude,  secure  to  this  region  a  tonic 
iitniosphere,  warm,  cloudless,  brilliant,  and  serene.     The  aboriginal  people 


arc  numeroi 

Indians.     T 

of  horses,  c 

porary  housi 

lli're,  als( 

half  a  centu 

Mountain). 

to  an  altituc 

A  iiure  stra 

liver  Dolor 

its  lower  co 

million  stn 

iilternates. 

Such,  m 

selected  fo 

Peak  and  t 

engaged  tli 

more  than 

Ovcrsha 

ments,  wli 

pioneer  pt 

actor  whit 

Who,  a 

people  of  I 

nor  of  the 

the  Centi 

admonish 

which  as; 

Look 
zodiac  oi 
homos  ai 
c(intinen 
right  ha 
slopes  to 
Behol 
islands, 
seaboari 
Thes( 
the  wor 
occupy 
and  o-or 


PIK'E-S   Pi:.\K  A\n    THE   SlEllHA    SAX  JTAX. 


175 


'■'■  '"""I-  N'atiiro  ns.rn.ling 
•  '  Mililiniity ! 

f  f"  tl...  soiis:   iilinv,.,  tho 
tlic  nnddiidcd  Mill  l,v  ,l,.,v^ 

piiiiins,  ox,, ;i„,ii„„.  ,,„;,, ,1^;^' 

•■"••ircliii.:-  linn/,,ii  :  t„  tlif 

till'  .>;trciiiiis  ! 
[Ircjidy  ciiiriio;,.,!  j),  „uu\n- 

rlKTsoiisoiiascciidilirnii-li 
■M-cnil  iiit(,  til,.  M;,v,,i,  Siin 
1    ill    lu'W   iiiid    in,ivi,,si„^, 

'I'fiiiK..  an  iiffluciit  ,,(■  tlR. 
.  !<»(»  niilos  fhrtluT  t.Mhr 
•  iisiriidin-  till.  ]{,-,,  H,..,v„ 

i^ini  Juan  fiirin  di,.  ^cst- 
'1<1I<'  fl;mk  til,.  Sierra  S;iii 
kalile  Vdlcaiiic  iiK.iiiit.iiiis, 
i").  This  c-liain  divides 
>'  tli<-  Kio  San  Juan,  and, 
iMTiiondieuIar  wall    .f  the 

I  its  siirrrundiii-  iv-i„ii. 
•^t.i]).  in  flu-  ,„i,l,t  „<■  the 
its  nietallifcrous  .dcnicnfs, 
t'iiig  its  course  \(cst-soutli. 

Iioiietrating  t„  pfrpetiiMJ 
if  earbdnifl'ivuis  and  sul- 
'»'   hero  conio    togotli<.r, 

i'lrangc  theuisclvos  side 

N  the  iirooinns  and  hase 
I  and  medicinal  streams, 
'ks,  level  mesas  of  L'reat 
It  forests  ;  all  tliese.  and 
-cession,  in  jiorfeet  order 

to  this  region  a  tonic 
The  ahorigiiial  jirojiie 


arc  numerous,  robust,  and  intelligent.  They  are  *hv  Navajos  and  Vuta 
Indians.  They  have  skill  in  agricultui'e  and  weaving,  rear  great  herds 
of  horses,  cattle,  and  .sheei),  hut  construct  neitlu'r  jiermanent  nor  tem- 
porary houses,  so  dry  and  favorable  is  tho  atmosphere. 

Here,  also,  occurs  a  remarkable,  isolated  mountain,  known  to  riinior  for 
half  a  century,  but  only  now  locally  identified.  This  is  Cerro  di  Sal  (Salt 
Mountain).  This  rises  among  tho  western  spurs  of  the  Sierra  La  IMata, 
to  an  altitude  of  0(100  foot,  ajipoaring  as  an  irregular  cone  of  great  bulk. 
A  pure  stratified  mass  of  rock-salt,  its  flanks  arc  channelled  l»y  the  little 
river  Dolores,  whose  waters,  saturated  with  liijuid  salt,  yield  it  again  in 
its  lower  course,  in  granulated  beds  of  snowy  whiteness,  tinted  with  Ver- 
million streaks  from  tho  beds  of  solenite  with  which  tho  salt  formation 
alternates. 

Such,  my  fellow-citizens,  arc  the  facts  and  reflections  which  I  have 
selected  for  your  attention  in  speaking  upon  tho  .u'old  region  of  I'ike's 
Peak  and  the  Sierra  Sun  Juan.  Tho  superlative  character  of  this  region 
engaged  the  enthusiastic  pen  and  patriotic  instincts  of  President  Jefl'erson, 
more  than  lialf  a  century  ago. 

Overshadowed  during  this  long  interval  by  jiolitical  and  military  excite- 
ments, which  have  deflected  elsewhere  tho  jirogressivo  columns  of  our 
pioneer  people,  it  now  recurs  to  restore  the  jire-emineiit  ccnllni  nlnl  char- 
acter which  insjiirod  the  generation  who  founded  our  republican  Union. 

Who,  and  what,  are  these  people  that  I  now  address?  We  are  not  the 
peopli!  of  the  North  ;  we  are  not  tlie  peoi>le  of  the  South  ;  nor  of  the  Kast; 
nor  of  tho  West.  AVe  are  emphatically,  and  /«o-  r.rcillriirr,  the  peo])lo  of 
the  Centre  !  Inspirations,  oracular  by  their  source  and  their  antiiiuitj-, 
admonish  us  to  resume  our  distributive  position,  and  develop  the  energies 
which  assume  and  keep  tho  lead. 

Look  upcjii  this  map  of  the  world,  -pon  which  science  delineates  the 
zodiac  of  empires  and  the  isothermal  axis  of  progress!  We  have  our 
homes  around  the  crnfru  of  tliis  our  northern  continent,  the  rnitir  of  our 
continental  Union,  the  «'?(0'cof  the  Mississipjii  basin.  Behold,  upon  the 
right  hand,  tho  European  continent,  with  its  200,000,000  of  people ;  it 
slopes  towards  our  eastern  seaboard  and  faces  towards  the  west ! 

Behold,  upon  the  left  hand,  tho  continent  of  Or'u'ntiil  Add  and  its 
islands,  with  its  population  of  050,000,000  ;  it  slopes  towards  our  western 
seaboard  and  faces  to  the  cast! 

These  external  continents,  dividing  between  them  the  population  of 
the  world,  })oth  face  America  and  face  one  another  across  America.  Wo 
occupy  tho  middle  space  between  them,  and  at  once  separate  them  asunder 
and  connect  them  together.     From   Paris  to   Pekin,  travelling  by  our 


I 


!l 


h    !::■! 


176 


AI'PEXVIX. 


!    I'i: 


.'til 


threshold,  is  Imt  a  jounii'y  of  1(1,0(10  miles.     It  liisccts  tli(>  teiiiiicnite 
zone — it  is  the  line  of  himl  ami  way  travi'l  of  niaukiiid. 

But  a  faet  of  jirol'ouiid  siunifiiaiiee  to  us,  revealed  liy  jihysical  geng- 
rajiliy.  reuiaius  to  he  eoiisidered.  It  is  aloiiu'  the  axis  of  the  isotln niinl 
zoitc  of  the  Xortheni  Heuiis]ihere.  that  the  i>rinei[iles  of  reveal"d  civiliza- 
tiou  make  the  ciroiit  of  the  j:lohe.  This  Isntlnrnud  r.oiie  defleets  from  the 
jreofrraiihieal  /one  (which  is  a  fiat  section  of  the  silohe),  umhdatini;  to  the 
north  and  to  the  south,  to  preserve  a  constant  identity  of  tem|ieratiU('. 

Undt'r  the  influence  of  the  warm  iiKin'fiiiir  climates,  it  rises  IuliIi  mIidvo 
the  40th  dejiTce  of  latitude ;  under  the  influence  of  the  cnntinriitnl  i-UkkiUs, 
it  is  depressed  to  the  soutli  of  the  40th  dejiree.  With  what  lie  liistdrv 
of  six  thousand  years  iiracticall}'  demonstrates,  the  jiroofs  of  pliysica! 
geography  agree. 

Along  this  axis  have  arisen  successively  the  great  cities  of  China  and 
of  India,  of  Baliylon,  Jerusalem,  Athens,  I?ome,  Paris,  London,  in  tlio 
older  continents— upon  our  continent,  the  seahoard  cities.  New  York, 
Philadi'l]ihia,  and  Baltimore;  Pittsburg.  Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis.  The 
channel  ol'  the  Missoiiri  is  its  onward  track  to  us:  whence  it  passes  liy 
the  Kansas  basins,  the  Sweetwater,  Snake  Biver,  ami  the  Columliia,  to 
Vancouver's  Island,  upon  the  North  Pacific  shore. 

We,  then,  the  pcop/c  of  ihr  centre,  are  upon  the  lines  of  intense  and 
intelligent  energy,  where  civilization  lias  its  largest  field,  its  highest  devel- 
opments, its  inspired  form.  Along  tliis  line  have  come,  from  the  plateau 
of  Syria,  our  religion,  our  sciences,  our  civilization,  our  social  manners, 
our  arts  and  agriculture,  the  horse,  our  articles  of  food  and  raiment  ;  and 
here  is  the  eteriud  fire  from  which  is  rekindled,  when  it  has  exjiired,  the 
.spirit  of  the  ■•  unconcjuerable  mind,  and  freedom's  holy  flame.  " 

We  have  seen  depart  a  perverse  generation,  distinguidied  by  civic 
discord.  An  unscrupulous  senboanl  power  has  aspired  to  found  a  repub- 
lic of  tlie  No. lIi;  a  repuljlie  of  the  South;  a  republic  of  the  Pacific 
shores.  A  nefarious  federal  policy,  operating  for  forty  years,  has  occluded 
with  savages  and  deserts  the  delicious  central  ri'gion  of  the  ])rairies,  the 
great  plains,  the  plateau,  and  the  mountains. 

The  physical  geography  of  our  country  has  been  ofhcially  caricatured, 
concealed,  and  maligned.  The  solid  continental  republic,  founded  in  ITTd 
and  completed  in  1787,  has  Ijeen  nullified  by  interpolated  monarchies. 

The  Ijditil  si/strm  has  cru.'<hed  and  jilundercd  the  continental  jieoi>le 
with  the  brutalizing  pressun;  of  nieditwal  feudalism. 

The  IiiiJIiiH  Hi/ateni  has  walled  u]).  as  in  a  Bastile,  the  whole  central 
meridian  of  our  continent. 

Forced  out  artificially  upon  tlie  flanks,  we  liavc  seen  our  pioneer  energies 


ri 

driv<'ii  in  fragi 
into  .Nliuue.'^ot: 
States.  i.-^olatiM 
centre,  an  imn 
Foreign   \v:i 
liaiisti'd.  fcdcr 
till'   fctleral  ct 
niunarchical  s 
the  continent. 
yi,r  tlie  « 
every  form  (j 
suicidally  ton 
The  found; 
an  invisible  e 
ju'tually  m  'n: 
and,  lost  to  tl 
the  infuriatei 
Our  great 
regenerating 
It  is  to  th 
To  exalt  thei 
Plateau  to  tl 
heading  the 
With  us  a 
ized  by  the  ] 
vindicated  ai 
Let  us  coi 
mission  of  i 
complete. 


tlt^ 


I 


)>isccts  the   t.'ini„.r;,te 
ikiiid. 

iilcd  Iiy  jiliysic-il  -(.„g. 
axis  of  the  ixnthi rmnl 
Ics  of  n«vciil"(l  civiliza- 
/  ~.<>)ie  doflccts  fniiii  tlie 
'»(■),  uiidiiliitiiii:-  t(i  tho 

y  (if  tciii]icriitinv. 

ti's,  it  riso.s  liidi  iil.iivo 

ic  continnititl  tUnititrs 

With  wliiit     lie  Iiistdi-v 

111"   jirodfs   (pf  jjliysjivil 

cat  cities  uf  Cliina  and 
I'aris,  London,  in  tho 
11(1  cities,  N(;w  Yorlc, 
i,  and  St.  Lonis.  TIio 
:  wlu'iicc  it  jiasscs  by 
,  and  tho  Colunihia,  tu 

c  lines  of  intense  jmd 
field,  its  liijiliest  devel- 
cunio,  from  the  ]iiafeau 
in,  our  social  niaiuiers. 
tb(jd  and  raiment  ;  and 
licii  it  has  cxjiired,  tho 
holy  fianio."' 
Jistinguished  hy  eivic 
•ired  to  found  a  reimh- 
'piiblie  of  the  Pacific 
rty  years,  has  occhided 
un  of  the  prairies,  the 


riKE-S  PEAK   ASD    THE  SIEUHA    SAX  JUAX. 


r 


driven  in  frafiineiits  into  Florida,  into  Texas,  into  California,  into  Orejion. 
intii  Minnesota.  We  behold  on  the  one  hand  a  tier  of  artilici  d  seaboard 
States,  i.-iolatcd  upon  the  maritime  slope ;  on  the  other  hand,  tiie  eoi;tinental 


centre,  a 


II  immense  disc  of  howling:  wilder 


iiess. 


Foreii:!!   wars  have  been  waned,   federal   rev 


enues    and  patnmaire  ex- 


hausted, federal  law  and  power  stretched  out  to  every  di'vice  of  tyranny, 
th(t  federal  eonstitution  violated  in  every  .sacr(;d  prineijile,  to  erect  this 
monarchical  .^'aboard  power,  and  estiibli.sh  it  in  perpetual  dominance  over 
the  continent. 

For  llie  autre,  civil  wars,  civil  discords,  false  jreouraphy,  calunmies, 
every  form  of  meretricious  and  deceptive  politieal  iigitation,  have  been 
suicidally  fomented. 

Tile  foundations  of  the  Union,  lost  in  the  c^entre  and  scattered  around 
an  invisible  circumference  :  the  Union  it.self,  incessantly  a.ssailed  and  per- 
petually ni  'tiaced :  has  seemed  to  apjtroach  the  twiliuht  of  its  existence, 
and,  lost  to  the  u'uardian  care  of  the  people,  Inis  been  hi  suspense  between 
the  infuriated  pa.ssions  of  extreme  sectional  fanatics. 

Our  fireat  country  demands  a  period  of  stern  virtue,  of  holy  zeal,  of 
nweneratinu'  jiatriotism,  of  dv!Voted  citizens. 

Tf  is  to  the  people  of  tlie  i^reat  central  State  of  Missouri  that  I  spca':. 
To  exalt  their  intrepid  enthusiasm  is  my  aim.  Open  the  track  acro.ss  the 
Plateau  to  the  other  sea,  and  we  are  absolutely  the  leaders  of  the  world, 
heading'  the  colunni  to  the  Oriental  shores. 

With  us  are  the  continental  (Uigles  and  the  continental  cause,  immortal- 
ized by  the  jmrity  of  Washington,  illuminated  by  the  wisdom  of  Jefferson, 
vindicated  and  I'estored  by  the  illustrious  Jackson. 

Let  us  condense  around  these  caj:;les  and  advance.    It  is  the  predestined 

mission  of  mankind,  confided  to  America  to  fulfil,  to  our  generation  to 

complete. 

Night  wnnes,  the  vaitors  round  tho  mountn'-s  curled 
Burst  into  morn,  and  light  awakes  tho  world ! 


I  ofllicially  caricatured, 
ihlic,  founded  in  \'~{\ 
(dated  momirchies. 
ho  continental  people 
1, 

ilc,  the  whole  central 
sn  our  pioneer  energies 


12 


GEOGRAPHICAL   MEMORANDA  ON   THE   PACIFIC 

RAILROAD. 

CHAPTER   I. 


m 


Inas.mucu  as  tlio  fit'iioral  mind  yecins  willing;  to  entertain  with  favor 
and  jndj^e  candidly  what  maybe  truthfully  said  of  a  National  Rail- 
road TO  THE  Pacific,  and  everywhere  is  indicated  a  growing  taste  for 
whatever  may  solidly  enhance  the  j)rosj>erity  of  our  cotitlncntnl  system,  I 
liave  condensed  into  these  few  chapters  the  general  views  resulting  from 
a  long  experience. 

This  subject  touches  profoundly  all  the  existing  relations  of  the  human 
family,  connecting  tlnrr  continents,  and  unites  together,  by  a  short  line 
o^  ten  tlioumiid  vii/ex,  the  ffiousiiml  millions  of  j)eople  inhabiting  Ht  koi'k, 
Amkuica,  and  Asia.  This  sliort  line  traverses  the  middle  of  tin;  north 
temperate  zone,  perforating  nine-tenths  of  the  land,  the  jjopulation,  the 
production,  and  the  consumption  of  the  world. 

I  say,  it  is  neci'ssary  lor  one  who  will  write  with  dignity  upon  such  a 
subject,  so  searching  and  omnipotent,  to  gras})  boldly  its  immonse  scope 
of  matter;  to  rely  upon 'solid  statistics;  to  face  and  l)ravc  old  opinions; 
to  repudiate  the  rul)bisli  into  winch  thousands  of  years  of  staggering  ami 
abortive  efforts  have  submerged  it ;  and  to  condense  it  to  the  tangible 
form  of  propositions,  which  may  be  pracliaillij  handled  for  a  final  solu- 
tion. 

The  shortest  trail  whereby  the  Incal  works,  now  on  hand  and  proposed, 
may  be  understood,  the  public-  judgment  matured,  and  opinion  instriicteil 
and  concentrated  f(ir  (itfion,  is  to  condense  by  rigid  analysis,  and  draw 
into  one  view,  the  nudtitudinous  facts  of  geography,  commerce,  politics, 
and  j)rogre,ss  under  which  the  American  people  arc  so  rapidly  erecting  a 
i<yprt  iiir  (hmorrntlc  rrpii/i/irav  rmpirr,  and  fitting  it  to  the  surface  of  the 
northern  American  continent  and  islands. 

And  fraf,  must  be  emancipated  from  the  dogmatic  European  writers 
(who,  with  Procrustean  desjiotism,  r"    ,  up  all  other  portions  of  the  globe 
to  fit   their  own  pigmy  theories)  the  synnnetrical  and  sublime  gcorimph- 
tcal  iiliin  of  our  continent. 
178 


1    "1 
1     if 


JHEMOItASD.\    OX   rilE   IWCIFIC  /{AlfJlOAP. 


179 


THE  PACIFIC 


Tliis,  hcrotoforo  veiled  from  the  pul)lic  mind  l)y  every  furin  of'eontdr- 
tion,  is  rc'dueible  to  an  exnet  system,  e:isily  uiiderstdod  and  eternal.  The 
rftrw  jreiifrraiihical  form  in  wliieli  onr  enntinent  is  m()nld<'(l :  tiie  eontrast 
of  all  the  otliei-s  :  makes  a  new  and  orlijimil  jrrandeiir  of  society,  not  oidy 
possible,  but  compulsory  upon  us. 

To  disinfect  ourselves  of  inane  nepotism  to  Europe  in  other  tliiiiL's  as  we 
have  done  in  jiolities  :  to  ponder  boldly  on  ourselves  and  our  iiiimtimi.  and 
develop  an  indiL'eiious  dignity — to  appreciate  Ai'in/ic  science,  civilization, 
conunercc,  and  pojiulation — these  are  eHueii/inl  preparatory  steps  to  which 
we  must  tone  our  minds. 

This,  then,  is  the  simple  jilan  of  North  America: — The  Ani)?;s,  having' 
traversed  the  whole  lenj:th  of  S'ni/h  America.  i)assini:C  out  from  the  Istbnui.s 
of  Tehuantepee,  continue  to  follow,  luichaufrt'd  in  chai'acter,  the  ]'acific 
shore  of  North  America  clear  up  to  nehrin<r's  Strait.  Known  successively 
!is  the  Cordillera.s  of  Anabuac  in  .Mexico.  Sfcrra  Nevada  in  California, 
and  Ca.scade  Mountains  in  Oreiron,  it  is  all  aloni;  the  .same  mirlfi  nms  and 
volcanic  Andks.  It  lias  a  narrow  base  waslied  on  tlic  west  by  the  tide ; 
immense  altitude;  sunnnits  of  perpetual  snow;  and  is  formed  of  the 
columnar  vulcan  rock,  or  a  molten  mass  of  lava. 

Between  this  continuous  eseaqiment  of  rock  and  the  sea,  is  the  mm-i- 
time  rcjiion  of  the  Pacific,  which  contains  all  the  present  American  jiopu- 
lation  residin<r  in  California  and  Orejron.  ujion  the  smaller  rivers  run- 
niii2  directly  into  the  sea,  and  j)arallel  to  one;  another. 

It  resembles,  and  is  the  counterpart  of,  the  inan'tiinr  Atlantic  declivity; 
which  contains  the  of<l  thirtnn  Stiifcs,  ami  which  is  shut  off  from  tlie 
valleys  of  the  Mississii))ii  and  St.  Lawrence  by  the  AUcfrhanies. 

But,  at  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepee,  the  AxDKS  bifurcates,  throwing 
alon<4  the  coa.st  of  the  Mexican  (!ulf  the  great  C(ir<l!Vtr<i  of  t/ic  Sirrra 
.]fii(l)p,  which  opens  rapidly  from  the  Andes,  as  the  continent  widens. 
This  a.ssumes  in  our  territory  the  name  of  Jiocki/  Mmintinni^^  and  traverses 
north  to  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea.  It  is  some  1400  miles  a))art  from, 
and  to  the  faxt  of,  the  Andes,  and  forms  the  primary  ih'rli/c,  the  '•  i/iror- 
tta  nqvarvm'  of  Anu'rica. 

The  absolute  scpardte  existence  of  these  tirn  prodigious  CoRDILLERAS, 
must  remain  distinctly  in  the  mind,  if  anyl)ody  intends  to  understand 
Ameriatn  f)<'>>firitiiln/. 

The  interval  between  them,  from  end  to  end.  is  occupied  by  the  Pl.\- 
TE.vi:  OF  THE  Table  Lands,  on  which  are  alike  the  cities  of  Mexico, 
Chihuahua,  and  the  Mormon  city  of  the  Salt  Lake.  This  Pi-ATEAU  of  the 
Table  L.vnds  is  two-sevenths  of  tlie  surface  of  North  America  :  is  some 
(JIJOO  feet  elevat4'd  above  the  external  oceans  ;  and  gives  as  complete  a 


•i  i 


<\'.k 


180 


Ai'i'i:sinx. 


si'pa.ation  betweon  the  Cohdilleras  on  tlio  flanks,  as  iloes  tlic  Atlantic 
wIkisc  wators  mil  Lcitwccn  the  Alleuhanics  and  the  Aljis. 

Tims  that  side  of  the  Anieiiean  continent  whieh  may  he  defined  to 
front  Asia,  and  sheds  its  waters  in  that  direction,  has  these  i'onr  cli;n'ac- 
teristie  divisions: — th(<  Duirifinir  front;  the  A.NDKS  ;  the  I'l.ATEAU  op 
TI!I;Taiu,K  JiANDs;  and  the  SlKUltA  >Iai»RK,  all  extendinu'  the  wliolo 
lengtli  from  kdhI/i  to  narth.  jiarallel  to  one  another,  and  covering  in  the 
agiiregate  twa-fifllix  of  its  whole  area. 

These  two  continuous  ^)/-/H«r/_yinonnta in  chains  define  tliomselves  as  the 
^Vestkux  and  the  Eastern  CunHlli ms. 

The  remaining  t/irci-ji/'t/i.t  of  the  continent  sheds  its  waters  towards  the 
Atlantic.  Hen;  too  the  same  siddime  grandeur  and  simplicity  of  jilan 
are  discern  ihle.  From  the  Si(rr(i  Mtnlic,  the  whole  continent  descends  to 
the  seas  hy  immense  planes,  rest'mliling  the  glacis  of  a  fortress,  or  a  flat- 
tened octagonal  house-roof. 

This  plane,  once  the  lied  of  immense  oceans,  (d' which  the  8ierra  Madrc 
was  the  shore,  and  hevelled  liy  the  action  of  the  watery  niass,  now  forms 
the  gentle  slope  down  which  descend,  to  rejilenish  the  oceans,  the  stnplus 
waters  of  the  Sirmt  Mnlrc  and  the  plane  itself.  Guttered  everywhere 
by  these  descending  water-courses,  seanung  its  surface  as  innumerably  as 
the  veins  which  carry  liack  the  blood  to  the  human  lu'art,  these  aipieous 
channels  flow  down  tlu!  different  faces  of  the  great  plane,  proportiont'd  in 
length  and  size  to  the  distances  to  be  traversed. 

Thus,  down  the  snndler  face,  which  fronts  the  3Iexican  Gulf, — at 
jire.sent  comjireheiided  in  Texas. — run  the  lowi'V  Del  Norte,  the  Nueces, 
Cokirado,  Trinity,  and  Brazos. 

Down  the  (jrund  edsfcrn  front,  called  by  us  the  "  Great  Prairie  l^lains,' 
descend  the  l\ed  lUver  of  liouisiana,  the  Canadian,  Arkan.sas,  and  Kan.sas, 
tlu'  Platte  (with  its  three  forks),  and  the  siddime  ^Missouri  itself.  All  of 
these,  running  due  'Y(,s7,  parallel  to  one  another,  very  straight  and  without 
rapids,  are  received  into  the  great  cmtntl  troiujli,  the  IMissi.ssipi'i,  which 
runs  from  nortli  to  south  across  their  direction,  and  their  aecumidated 
waters  are  discharged  into  the  Gulf. 

From  the  Sixme  foad  point  with  the  3Iissouri,  radiate  two  fronts.  The 
one  is  drained  by  the  system  of  rivers  tributary  to  the  Saskatchewan, 
(jpening  to  the  imrt/icast,  and  widening  to  endjrace  the  immense  inland 
sea  of  Hudson  Bay.  The  other  is  upon  the  Athabasca  or  ^IcKenzic 
liiver,  sloping  due  north,  and  occupying  the  vast  hi/perlntrtan  rtgmi 
stretching  to  the  Arctic  Sea. 

From  an  elevated  swell  ni  the  plane  between  the  ^lissouri  and  Sas- 
katchewan, protruding  from  the  Si'-rra  Mudrc  eastwardly  along  the  4l)th 


MEMOIl.WPA    OX    THE   PACinc  HMI.KOM). 


181 


U'fiiio  thi'iusi'lvL's  iis  tlie 

its  w:it('rs  tiiwiirds  iho 

ami  siiiijilicity  nf  jilmi 

t-  eiiiitiiK'iit  (K'^cciidsto 

t'  a  lurtre.ss,  or  a  ilat- 

vliicli  the  Sierra  Madn- 
vatcrv  mass,  ikiw  loMuti 
till'  iKraiis,  till'  siir]ilii.s 
Giitti'i-('(1  overvwliuro 
I'fiice  as  iiiminicrahlv  as 
11  heart,  these  a(|iieiius 
I'laiie,  liroiiurtiiiiied  in 

ho   3Ie.\ieaii   Gulf, — at 
Del  Norte,  the  Nueees, 

Great  Prairie  Plains,' 
Arkansas,  and  Kansas, 
ilissouri  itself.  All  of 
y  straij^iit  and  without 
lie  ^Iississippi,  which 
iiid  their  aeeuniulated 

liate  two  fronts.  The 
to  tlie  Saskatchewan, 
■e  the  immense  inland 
thahasea  or  McKenzie 
st  Jii/pi.'rLortiiii   r<(jivH 

(he  ^Missouri  and  Sas- 
wardly  along  (lie  40th 


degree,  alioiit   "(K)   miles,  issue  the  waters  of  the  I'liftn-   Mi.fsii<^ijq,i  mnl 
,SV.  LiiinijiiT.    The  first  ji'oes  directly  south  to  scoiiroiit  ihv /imu/li  nf  tlie 


continent.      TMie  latter  flows  down  tlie  narmw  hasin  nf  tlie  l;ik( 


d  t' 


leir 


river  St.    liawreiiee,  to  where  the  glacis  reaches  the  sea    and  f'orins  the 


short 


(f  the  uulf  of  that  nam 


Tlius,  from  the  dividini;  wall  of  the  Si' rni  Mmlii .  the  continent  de- 
scends uninterruptedly  to  the  Gulf:  tlu'  North  Atlantic;  and  the  Arctic 
Seas.  The  jierfect  ji'entlene.ss  of  this  descent,  scarcely  distiiiiKiisliaMe 
from  a  level,  is  iierce]itilile  from  the  rivers,  which  are  entirely  free  from 
rajiids  and  everywlien^  naviuahle  when  water  is  sufficient  in  their  lied-. 

The  sublimest  exaiujile  is  the  watery  surface  of  the  .Missoi  ui.  whose 
li(|iiid  jilane,  di]niii:i;-  liy  iierhajis  tJiirfrcH  inches  to  the  mile,  has  an  nii- 
nifHt'd  uniformity  of  descent  tlironyfi  its  whole  course  of  oOOd  miles  to 
the  .sea. 

jilete  this   izcii.iii'aiihical  delineation,  there  rises  all 


But  to   rendei 


C(..ll 


along  the  Atlantic,  and  parallel  with  its  shore,  the  dividing  range  of 
the  Alleghany,  uiiintcrruiited  from  IJaton  Kouge  to  the  (jlulf  of  St. 
Lawrence. 

External  to  this  is  the  narrow  Kriilmiinl  ilaUrilij  whicli  first  received 
the  European  settlements,  and  still  holds  the  densest  jiojudation :    Imt 


!lh 


villi  III.  a 


reverse  ijhirtK  descends  to  the  Mississijtpi  and  St.  Lawrence, 
filled  with  States  to  the  central  trough  of  the  continent. 

Practieaily,  the  /lushis  of  these  great  rivers  are  narrowed  to  mere  jiasses 
at  their  mouths  by  the  points  of  tlie  mountain  diains  which  fence  them 
from  the  sea,  expanding  to  an  immense  breadth  in  the  interior,  and  fading 
into  one  another,  where  they  touch,  by  prairie  divides  of  imperceptible 
elevation.  They  form  together  one  vast  bowl,  whose  waters  flow  from  tlu; 
circtunference  near  the  seas,  inwards,  to  centres  which  are  near  and 
already  connected  by  art  as  at  Chicago.  This  bowl  or  jilain  is  everywhere 
cidcKi'coiix,  being  paved  beneath  the  soil  with  an  undulating  covering  of 
limestone,  as  is  a  frozen  lake  with  one  of  ice. 

To  recajiitulate  and  grave  it  upon  the  mind :  as  witli  the  style  where- 
with t]u>  artist  cuts  into  steel  the  deeply  shaded  lines  of  a  picture :  the 
whole  .l^Anf^'c  side  of  the  continent  la  mie  ('«/tv/*r'^(/,s' jilain  of  many  fronts. 
Each  front  has  a  mighty  system  of  arteries,  demonstrating  its  gradual 
slope,  and  carrying  its  surplus  waters  to  the  sea.  Yet  by  the  rising  of 
the  eastern  halves  of  the  basins  against  the  Atlantic  barriers  it  is  also  a 
sublime  bowl,  into  which  the  waters  have  first  a  concentrie  direction,  as 
they  accumulate  into  the  /miii/lin  that  conduct  them  to  the  sea. 

The  superlative  wonder  about  this  is,  that  here,  in  Xoiih  Aniiricn,  is 
rolled  out  in  one  uniform  exjianse  of  2,800,1)00  square  miles,  an  area  of 


|!  ;i 


W  ' 


:?? 


182 


APPEXDIX. 


I     ^  HI 


arable  land  equivalent  in  siufaco  to  the  aggroj^ate  of  the  valleys  of  the 
other  continents,  wliich  are  small,  sinjilc,  and  isolated. 

iYo/rorc/',  the  iiitorlafinjiof  the  rivers  forms  ovisry where  a  eomplcto  sys- 
tem of  navijiation  :  blended  into  one  by  |inblie  \V((rks  of  the  easiest  cdii- 
struetion  ;  and  forming;',  by  tliuir  double  banks,  n  ahon'-liiie  eijiial  in  (.ittnt 
to  theciHisfs  of  (til  the  ovrdiis. 

To  master  the  yi'oi/rdp/iiml  pnrtrnlt  of  our  eontinent  thus  in  its  unity 
of  system,  is  mrrssdn/  to  every  American  eitizen — as  necessary,  as  it  is  to 
understand  the  radical  princiiiles  of  the  Federal  Government  over  it,  and 
of  jiolitieal  society. 

Our  country  is  immcnavlij  grand,  and  to  understand  it  in  its  simple 
grandeur,  it  is  not  an  extravagance,  but  is  a  homcs|iun  matter-of-fact  duty. 
If  we  flinch  from  i\\\,  duty,  we  recede  from  the  divine  mi.ssion  chalked 
out  for  us  by  the  Creator's  luuul,  sink  below  the  dignity  of  our  ancestors, 
and  fall  into  the  decrepitude  of  the  voluntary,  illiterate,  and  emasculate 
siilnjects  of  Kurope. 

To  enforce  these  truths  with  yet  greater  stringency,  ami  to  tempt  or 
la.sh  the  jwpular  mind  out  of  its  cringing  and  criminal  torpidity,  .still 
another  illustratioi  remains  of  the  j)araniount  sigidficanee  to  us  of  (jia- 
yniji/u'cal  facts.  This  is  the  cmttrast  b  tweeu  our  own  and  the  other  i'our 
continents. 

Euttoi'E,  the  smallest  of  the  grand  divisions  of  the  land,  contains  in  its 
centre  the  icy  masses  of  the  Alps ;  from  round  their  declivities  rddlntc 
the  large  rivers  of  that  continent ;  the  Danube  directly  east  to  tiie 
Euxine ;  the  Po  and  Khone  south  to  the  Mediterranean  ;  the  llhine  to 
the  Nortliern  Ocean. 

Walled  off  by  the  Pyrenees  and  Carp-'lhians,  divergent  and  isolated, 
are  the  Tagus,  the  Elbe,  and  other  sing'  rivers,  affluents  of  the  Baltic, 
the  Atlantic,  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  Kuxine. 

Descending  y/'(<»i  common  radiant  points,  and  diverging  everyway  from 
one  another,  no  {utercommHitication  exists  between  the  rivers  of  Europe: 
navigation  is  petty  and  feeble:  nor  have  art  and  couunerce,  during  many 
centuries,  united  so  many  small  valleys,  remotely  isolated  by  impenetrable 
barriers. 

Hence  upon  each  river  dwells  a  distinct  people,  differing  from  all  the 
rest  in  race,  language,  habits,  and  interests.  Though  often  politically 
amalgamated  by  eoncjuest,  they  again  relapse  into  fragnujnts  from  iiniate 
(/!'( )(/!■< I jt/u'c(tl  incoherence.  The  history  of  these  nations  is  a  story  of  jier- 
l)etual  war ;  of  nmtual  extermination  ;  and  an  ai)])idling  dramatic  cata- 
logue of  a  few  splendid  tyrainiies,  crushing  multitudinous  millions  of 
submissive  and  unchronicled  serfs. 


.\fE.VO/{A\nA    ox   THE  PACIFIC  KAILROAD. 


183 


Exactly  similar  to  Europe.  thoUL'li  ;.'nuulor  in  size  and  pupulatinn.  is 
Asia.  Frmn  the  stuiKMulous  central  harrier  of  the  Himalayas  nm  the 
four  pvat  rivei-s  of  China,  due  »a,s7,  to  (lisehar;:e  themselves  hcueath  the 
risinir  sun:  towards  the .•";»///  run  the  rivers  of  Cochin  China,  the  dauires. 
and  the  Indus:  towards  the  »rr.N7.  the  rivers  of  the  Caspian:  and  iimtli 
tliroUL'h  Si/iiii'ti  to  the  Arctic  Seas,  many  rivers  of  the  first  maj:nitude. 

])ariiii;  tifty  centuries,  as  now.  the  Aljis  and  Himalaya  ^lountains  have 
proveil  insuperable  harriei-s  to  the  anialiramation  of  the  nations  amund 
their  bases  and  dwellintr  in  the  valleys  which  radiate  from  their  slojies. 
The  continent  of  Akuica,  as  far  as  we  know  the  details  of  its  surface,  is 
even  more  tluin  these  split  into  di.xjointed  frajrments.  Such  also,  in  a  less 
deuTce.  is  SiHTll  A.MEltlCA. 

Thus,  whilst  Xurthini  Ann rica  opens  towards  heaven  in  an  expanded 
bowl  to  receive  and  fu.se  harmoniously  whatever  enters  within  its  rim:  so 
each  of  the  other  continents,  jiresentinir  a  bowl  reversed,  scatters  every- 
thinir  from  a  central  apex  into  radiant  distraction.  Political  empires 
and  societies  have  in  all  ages  conformed  them.selves  to  these  emphatic 
gtiKjydphicitl  fads. 

The  American  Republic  is  then  pmlisfini'il  to  e.^pand  and  fit  itself  to 
the  continent.  Much  is  uncertain,  yet  throuuh  all  the  vici.ssitudes  of  the 
fiifinr,  this  much  of  eternal  truth  is  discernible :  In  geoirraphy  the  aii- 
titlii'gi's  of  the  Old  World,  in  .«ociety  it  is  and  will  be  the  rcvrrnr. 

Xorth  Ainiricii  will  rajiidly  attain  to  a  pojjulation  e((uallini^  that  of 
the  rest  of  the  world  combined:  forming  a  single  people,  identical  in 
manners,  language,  customs,  and  impulses:  preserving  the  same  civiliza- 
tion, the  same  religion :  imbued  with  the  same  opinions,  and  having  the 
same  political  liberties. 

Of  this  we  have  two  illustrations  now  under  our  eye :  the  one  passing 
away,  the  other  advancing.  The  aboriginal  Indian  race,  among  whom, 
from  Darien  to  the  Estjuimaux.  and  from  Florida  to  Vancouver's  Island, 
exists  a  great  identity  in  their  hair,  comj)Iexion,  features,  stature,  and 
language.  And  secmul.  in  the  instinctive  fusion  into  one  language,  and 
one  new  race,  of  immigrant  Oermans,  English,  French,  and  Spanish,  whose 
individuality  is  obliterated  in  a  single  generation  ! 

It  is  thus  that  tlie  holy  ipiestion  of  our  Union  lies  in  the  bosom  of 
nnf.iire :  its  perj)etuity  in  the  hearts  of  a  great  democratic  people,  iud)ued 
with  an  understanding  and  austere  reverence  for  her  eternal  pnmiptings 
and  ordinances.  It  lies  not  in  the  trivial  temporalities  of  political  taxation, 
Afru'iin  sldirri/.  loctd  power,  or  the  nostrums  of  oratore  however  eminent. 
It  is  the  truth,  established  by  sci'cnci'.  and  not  the  deductions  of  meta- 
physics, with  which  the  people  must  fortify  themselves. 


184 


APPEXDIX. 


As  |i()\vc'r  loidfs  in  the  indiilf  and  the  siiffragr  is  its  exercise,  with 
tlu'm  al.N)  must  reside  inteilijieiit  and  wise  eounsel.  To  lie  eertain  that 
the  great  iirin(i|iles  nn  wiiich  they  rely  tn  strengthen  and  jn  iiictuatt' 
linnian  rigiits,  are  the  trutlit'nl  deiluetions  nt'  cxnit  sci<  iiri\,  ntnl  !ii  Imninntij 
vif/i  iiiituir,  is  tlic  individual  duty  of  tlie  citizen.  To  reject  what  is 
otherwise,  is  the  only  safety  I'roni  usurjiafion  and  tyranny. 

To  assert  that  the  mass  ari!  deficient  in  intelligence  to  e(ini]irelien(l  and 
use  familiarly  t/ic  ti  iif/i  of  »<■!<  nee.  is  the  language  of  tyrants  and  iitifictly 
false.  Behold  an  eternal  exanijile  of  universal  dissemination  and  faniiliur 
use  of  acitiitijic  ti'itthtt. 

The  aljihahet  of  tuciifi/six  Irtttrn  and  the  numerals  of  tai  /!;/iiris  are 
the  uiost  jirofound,  conden.sed,  and  sublime  forms  of  abstract  truth  which 
science  lias  or  can  give  to  the  liuman  race.  How  uiany  ages  and  liuw 
great  a  lass  of  intellectual  analysis  and  research  consumed  it.self  to  reach 
this  alistract  (y((//(/t'j>w.'/(tt' of  truth,  has  not  come  to  us  with  the  inventions 
themselves. 

At  sight  of  a  volume  printed,  or  a  newspaper,  the  intelligent  sa\age  is 
crushed  with  a  sense  of  desjiair.  not  knowing  that  a  few  years  of  study 
will  render  intelligihle  to  him  this  ma.ss  of  clniotic  my.stery.  The  child  of 
civilized  society,  on  the  contrary,  commencing  with  the  aljilialjct  which 
science  has  discovered  and  be((ueathed,  ocaj'ts  it  tltromjli  faith,  cuni- 
bines  letters  into  syllables,  syllables  into  words,  words  into  sentences,  and 
has  opened  to  him,  by  an  easy  ascent,  the  knowledge  which  written  lan- 
guage has  accumulated  and  perpetuated  since  its  invention,  some  thousands 
of  years  ago. 

Believing  tlnit  abstract  truth,  wherever  reached  in  other  departments 
of  human  afl'airs — ax  fur  instaitcc  in  gcoyraphy — may,  in  like  maimer  as 
the  alphabet,  be  universally  received,  trusted,  and  used  by  the  iieo])le,  I 
have  written  these  remarks  and  constructed  the  map  which  accompanies 
them.  They  agree  with  the  speculations  of  the  ncientifc  writers  whom 
I  have  been  able  to  consult,  especially  Humboldt  and  Jefl'erson. 

If  this  abstract  of  simjile  <iri)gr<iplilc(d  elements  l)e  trutli,  then  should 
they  stand  the  basis  of  political  reason,  as  the  Ten  Comuiandmeiits  stand 
in  the  field  of  religion.  Admitted  to  be  true,  the  future  of  tlie  A.mkhi- 
CAN  Bepl'HLIC,  ex])anding  to  tit  the  continent,  as  the  human  foot  within 
a  slioe,  and  brightening  tlie  world  with  its  radiance,  is  familiarly  dis- 
cernible. 

The  general  continental gcngvaphi/,  filling  up  the  details  of  its  surface, 
as  the  flcsli  and  muscles  cover  the  human  skeleton,  will  readily  be  con- 
ceived ill  the  mind,  and  assume  order  and  symmetry. 

Variety  of  climates  and  of  altitude  :  the  consetjueut  distribution  of  indus- 


'  ) 


m/-:m()/i.\.\1'.\   i>\  Till:  i-m/i  ir  u.mi.udmk 


1S5 


.'/'  is  its  exorciso,  with 
I'l.  To  lie  rcrtiiiii  tlijit 
ij;llu'ii   1111(1    ]M  rpiitiiitu 

To    rcjtrl   \vli;ii   is 
>raiiiiy. 

ice  to  e(iiii]in]irii(l  iiiid 
r  tyraiils  iind  |i(if,.,.tly 
iiiiiiiiitidii  :iii(i  liiiiiilijir 

Ills  (if  t(  II  jiijitri)!.  iire 
'f  abstract  tnitii  wiiidi 
)W  many  ajivs  and  how 
onsuuicd  itself  to  reach 
us  with  the  iiiveiitiuiis 

le  inteilijiciit  stnage  is 
t  a  few  years  of  study 
mystery.  The  child  of 
:li  tlie  al]dial)et  wliich 
V  tUrouijh  faith,  cdin- 
rds  into  sentences,  and 
tlji,e  wliieh  written  hiii- 
ention,  some  tliousiinds 

1  in  other  deiiartnieiits 
iiiay,  ill  like  manner  as 
used  by  the  jieojile,  I 
a]»  which  aceompani(\s 
-wntijic  writers  wliimi 
iii  Jefl'erson. 
be  truth,  then  should 
Commandments  stand 
future  of  the  A.mkki- 
lio  liumaii  f(Hit.  within 
ice,  is  familiarly  dis- 

details  of  its  surfiicc, 
I,  will  readily  he  con- 


try  :  the  immense  commerce  which  will  adju.-t  the  interchanges  nt' so  vast 


irk- 


distributiou  of 


indus- 


tli< 


tl 


II V  ill 


!i  Mii'lacc,  so  Variously  iicciijmiiI  ;  the  uniiiii  oy  ]iulilic  »vci 
artcriis  deneeiidiii;;  o|iiMi.-ite  sluiic- :  the  connections  with  the  external 
coiiliiieiits  :  and  the  forms  of  States,  risiii"  consecutively  till  they  shall 
imnilier  (ink  iir.NDRKl):  All  these  successive  events  becoinc  the  ciiirciit 
crcatiipiis  nf  a  natural  order  :if  |iroi;rtss,  and  will  be  the  easy  (Icdiicliniis 
uf  exact  ealculatiou  of  tiuu^  from  statistical  data. 

To  com.  fnally  to  solve  the  (juestion  of  the  construction  uf  the  I'dci/ic 
Riiiliiitnl,  it  is  necessary  to  aiialy/e  the  jireseiit  condition  of  c<ininierce, 
both  of  iiur  own  and  external  countries:  liyw  far  it  is  friendly  or  hostile 
to  the  imniense  modificatimis  such  a  new  mute  will  engender:  to  probe 
the  temper  and  i'orce  of  political  power  and  jealousies:  to  reason  out  and 
balance  the  Irieiidly  and  hostile  elements  that  bear  upon  it :  and  finally, 
to  subject  to  the  most  searching  scrutiny  thi;  /Diifii/ni/iliicuf  character  of 
the  immense  space  of  our  continent  interrupted  by  the  ••  Plateau  of  tlie 
Table  liiinds,"  the  great  mountain  ranges  of  the  Sit^rra  Madre,  and  the 
Andes,  with  their  external  slopes.  To  such  a  com])Ieto  discussion,  this  is 
prelimiiiiiry. 


C II  APT  Eli    IT. 


I  HAVE  :nentioned  in  the  j)recediiig  chapter,  in  which  I  end(^avored  to 
delineate,  in  a  condensed  form,  the  ab.stract  tjaiyraphical  chiiniils  of  our 
continent,  that  I  had  coiniiiled,  with  great  labor,  a  map,  exhibiting  to  the 
eye,  as  it  were  in  daguerreotyiie,  what  is  so  difticult  to  make  comiu'ehensi- 
blc  in  writing  to  the  popular  mind. 

In  truth,  this  simple  classification  has  long  ago  suggested  itself  to  mc, 
resulting  from  observations  made  and  facts  collected  during  immense  jour- 
neys, which  I  liave  made  out  to  the  rim  of  the  continent,  on  all  its  coasts — 
sometimes  as  a  S(jlitary  pioneer,  and  at  others  in  the  military  service. 
These  wanderings  have  extended  over  thirty  years  of  time,  and  more  than 
one  hundred  thousand  miles  ! 

X'ncertiiin  as  to  the  accuracy  of  these  facts,  long  rendered  indistinct  and 
liazy  by  the  vastuess  of  the  details — findirg  myself  everywhere  repelled 
by  the  soi-dimutt  learned  in  science  and  politics;  and  being,  also,  without 
the  iiecuniary  means  to  reach  f/ie  jiroji/r.  it  is  only  now  that  I  venture 
to  apjicar  before  them.  Neither  do  I  rely  upon  my  own  reflections 
exclusively. 


183 


AITEMilX. 


The  wiiiM  1ms  Iiitcly  received  from  tlic  Icjinu'fl  Tliiiiilioldt  Ills  tW"  works, 
"  (ViMiiiw"  and  "Tile  Aspeets  of  Nature."  This  ]ire-eniiiieiit  vetenm  in 
Bcieiiee  eoimneiicud  isixty  years  aj;o  to  hive  and  condense  the  truths  tinit 
he  now  i:ives  u.s  in  these  small  volumes.  Nine  years  were  then  j:ivcii  hy 
him  to  c.\|iloration  and  .stmly  anions  the  J/k/ci  of  Smtl/i  Anuiini  mid 
Mi.iica,  and  sulisci|uently  ten  years  ainon^'  the  Himalayas  of  Central 
Asia.  It  is  only  now,  ai  the  ap'  of  ilijhli/  years,  that  ho  ventures  to  jrivu 
to  tin,'  world  the  condensed  ijiinitiMi'iia:  uf  ii  wliole  life  of  travel,  intense 
study,  riuid  analysis,  and  meditation. 

Thou;;h  not  clearly  known  to  liim  (for  he  has  not  visited  our  country. 
or  been  able  to  collect  the  material,  to  supply  this  deliciency,  from  others). 
he  luLs,  in  his  delineations  of  I'eru  and  Mexico,  exactly  sketched  our  own 
Andes  in  California  and  Oregon. 

His  descriptions  of  the  jiTcat  l>r,.\TK.\l  X  of  Central  Asia,  the  Caspian 
kSea,  and  Thibet,  with  their  snrroundin;;  mountain  chains,  applied  to  our 
continent,  solve  for  us  the  enijinia  of  our  own  jieo}.'raphy.  Indeed,  if  the 
continent  of  Asia  be  turned  at  rii.dit  anj,des,  .so  that  Siberia  should  fiice 
the  ri.sin,L'  sun,  it  would  almost  exactly  resemble  a  '  "xplain  all  North 
America  included  between  the  ti<iii<ih  of  the  Mississipjii  and  tin-  I'acifif. 
In  short,  in  these  small  volumes — ■•  Notes  on  A'iruinia"  and  "  Cosmos' 
— of  the  brave  apostles  of  truth,  Jefferson  and  Humboldt, — in  the.se  wc 
luive  conden.sed  facts  enouf;h  to  iruiile  us  to  the  most  distinct  and  perfect 
solution  of  the  whole  scluane  of  our  own  confiiitiifd/  i/iui/niii/i//. 

To  resume,  then,  the  discussion  o\' giiiffraphmil J'<iil».  and  approach  cau- 
tiously, stej)  by  step,  the  location  nuide  by  nature  for  the  Conti.nkntal 
Raim^oaii,  we  must  have  clearly  in  the  mind  the  j;reat  central  crest  of  the 
SiKititA  ]Ma1)RK,  and  the  two  sides  of  the  continent  .sloping  on  either 
hand  to  the  oceans.  Very  many  fjreat  rivers,  burstinjj;  from  the  e:istern 
mountain  flank,  descend,  without  rajiids,  by  the  ^lissi.ssipjii  to  the  (lulf; 
by  the  St.  Lawrence  to  tlie  North  Atlantic.  Kven  the  Alle<;hanies.  having 
but  2(I0((  feet  elevation,  pri'sent  but  a  secondary  ol)stacle. 

Abundant  routes  exist,  therefore,  whereby  a  railroad  may  pass  up  from 
the  cnsfcni  coa.st  line  of  the  continent  to  the  flanks  of  the  SiKHRA  Madkk. 
"Whatever  slijjht  elevations  may  exist  in  the  general  surface,  they  are  all 
perforated  successively  by  continuous  rivers,  whose  banks  offer  water- 
grades  uninterrupted  during  the  whole  ascent.  i\  o  difficult)/  here  presents 
itself. 

Bui  "  that  side  of  the  Anun'iean  continent  which  may  be  defined  to 
front  Asia,  and  sheds  its  waters  in  that  direction,  lias  these  four  charac- 
teristic divisions  :  the  mo r it i me  front,  the  Andks,  the  PLATEAU  of  THE 
Table  Lands,  and  the  Sierra  Madke;  all  extending  the  whole  length, 


MEMOItAShA    O.V    TI'E   IWriflf   llMl.lloMt. 


187 


"iilMiIdt  lii.s  twi.  \M,ik.M, 
'iv-eiiiiiiciit  vctcniti  in 
'i'l«''i-<«'  llic  iniths  that 
■<  Wfl-l-  tlicii  -ivrti  l,v 
Siiitlh  Aiiuriiii  I, lid 
iiiialiip.s  „f  C,.,,!,.;,! 
It  lio  venturer  to  uiv,. 
if'o  of  fravi'I,  iiitoiL^e 

't  vitiited  our  cdiiiitry, 
liii<'iicy,  (Vdin  oflunin), 
•tly  .skctclicd  (iiir  dwn 

trill  Asia,  the  (".opja,, 

cliains,  iii.]i|i,.,l  (,,  ,„„. 

'1'1'y-      Intlird,  if  tl„. 

K  Siberia  .should  I'kv 
'  "xplaiii  all   X,„(h 

^il'I'i  and  tlio  Pauitic. 

iiiia"  and  •' C.isuio.s" 
inilidldt, — in  (licsc  wu 
■*t  distinct  and  jicrlkt 
•(  >/t''ii/rii/i/i//. 
'■/*■.  and  a]i|ir(iii(Ii  cini- 
or  tlle  C(».\TI.\K.\TAL 

Jat  central  ercst  i  if  the 
'nt  nlojiinji-  (III  cither 
iii.u:  from  tli(>  c.istcni 
<si.s.si|i])i  to  the  (lidf; 

0  Alleghanies.  luiviii"' 
acle. 

ad  may  pass  nji  from 
tlu'SiKKUA  3Iai»ke. 
surfaee,  they  are  all 
banks  offer  water- 
'ifficulty  here  presents 

1  n)ay  be  defined  to 
f'  these  four  charae- 
e  PlATKAU  (IF  THE 
ig  tlie  whole  length, 


from  smith  to  north,  ]iiirallel  to  one  another,  and  eovering,  in  the  ajrirre- 
wate,  two-lifths  of  it.s  whole  area." 

Tile  iiiiin'tiiiir  front  is  narrow,  has  many  small  streams  in  which  ilu^ 
flowing  tide  reaches  the  lia.se  of  the  An'UKS.  and  |iresents  no  obstacles  of 
any  signiticaiice.  Through  the  /('•/*  Cordilleras,  the  .\m»ks.  ami  the 
J^IKIiUA  .M.MtHK,  which  H.jiik  and  elevate  themselves  above  the  level  of 
tlic  TAiti.F.  liA.NDS,  are  many  ]ias.ses  adniittiiig  of  the  pa.ssiige  of  rail- 
roads, but  merely  from  tin?  otitsidi!  on  to  the  Taiilc  liands  within. 

The  T.Mir.K  li.VMis  are.  liowevcr,  ribbed  by  latitudinal  ranges  of  moun- 
tains, of  imnu'n.se  bulk  and  iicight.  The  solutimi,  therefore,  condenses 
itself  to  the  discovery  of  a  siii</le  line,  whereby  the  Sierra  Madrc,  the  ribs 
of  the  Tahi.k  Lands,  the  lofty  crest  of  the  Andes,  and  its  aiirupt  western 
wall,  may  all  be  continuously  and  eon.secutively  overcome,  surmounted,  or 
evaded. 

1  ((uote  from  a  memoir  given  to  the  public  by  myself,  some  years  ago, 
this  description  of  the  Table  Lands ; — 

The  di.stanco  to  the  I'acific  from  the  top  of  the  Sierra  ^ladre  (Rocky 
Mountains),  where  you  leave  behind  the  waters  flowing  to  the  Atlantic, 
is  everywhere  some  lotIO  miles.  The  ti>p<Kjr<ii>li!ttil  characti'r  of  this 
ultramDntiine  region  is  very  grand  and  characteristic.  It  is  identical  with 
the  region  at  the  .sources  of  the  J^a  Plata,  Amazon,  and  Magdaleiia,  of  South 
America,  but  more  immense. 

Sketched  by  its  great  outlines  it  is  simply  this  :  The  chain  of  the  Andes, 
debouching  north  from  the  /si7; *,/*.,•■,  opens  like  the  letter  Y  into  two 
primary  chains  (Cordilleras).  On  tlic  right,  the  Sii'rra  Madre,  trending 
along  the  coast  of  the  Mexican  (iulf,  divides  the  Northern  Continent 
.ilmost  centrally,  forming  an  unbroken  water-shed  to  Behrini^s  Strait.  On 
the  left,  the  Andes  folhjws  tlie  coast  of  the  I'acific,  war|is  around  tlictJulf 
of  California,  and,  jiassing  along  the  coast  of  California  and  Oregon  (under 
the  name  of  Sitirra  Nevada),  txirminates  also  near  Behring's  Strait. 

The  immense  interval  between  tlie.se  chains  is  a  succession  of  mtra- 
montane  liasins,  srceii  in  number,  and  ranging  from  .south  to  north.  The 
whole  forms  the  great  Plateau  of  the  Table  Lands. 

First,  is  the  "  Basin  of  the  City  of  Jlexico,"  receiving  the  interior 
drainage  of  both  Cordilleras,  which  waters,,  having  no  outlet  to  either 
ocean,  are  dispersed  again  by  evaporation. 

Second,  the  "  Bolson  do  Majiimi,"  collecting  into  the  Laguna  the 
streams  draining  many  States,  from  San  Luis  Potosi  to  Coahuila,  also 
without  any  outflow  to  either  ocean. 

Third,  the  "  Basin  of  the  Del  Norte,"  who.se  va.st  a'-ea  feeds  the  llio 


188 


M>i'i:.\i)ix. 


"\ 


del  Norte,  the  Coiu'lios,  and  IV'fus.  Tlu'so,  conecntratod  iiitd  tlic  Rio 
Graiulf  di'l  Nnrto,  lieliiiid  the  Sierra  Maiire,  have,  hy  tlieir  >iiiited  vipIuiiic. 
bur.-it  tiinmgh  it.s  wall  and  round  ati  outlet  towards  the  Atlanlic  The 
yco/o^/ca^  charaeter  of  tliis  basin,  its  altitude,  its  eontijiuration  and  incaiity 
all  assign  it  this  position,  as  distinguishing  it  from  all  others  eontriliutiiiL' 
their  waters  to  the  Atlantie. 

Fourth,  the  '•  Basin  of  the  Great  Colorado  of  the  West."  This  im- 
mense basin  embraces  above  the  great  rivers  Rio  Verde  and  Rio  (Jraiidi', 
whose  confluent  waters,  penetrating  tlie  mighty  Cordillera  of  the  Amies 
athwart,  from  base  to  base,  dischavge  themselves  into  the  (lulf  of  Califdr- 
nia.  Into  this  sublime  gorge  {the  Oinon  of  th.c  Colorado)  the  liuniau 
eye  has  never  swept  for  an  interval  of  575  miles.  So  stern  a  character 
does  Nature  assume  wliere  such  stupendous  mountains  resist  the  passage 
of  sucli  mighty  rivers. 

Fifth,  the  ''  B;isiu  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,"  like  the  Ca.sjiian  of  Asia, 
containing  many  small  basins  within  one  great  rim,  and  losing  its  scattered 
waters  by  evaporation,  has  no  outflow  to  citlier  ocean. 

Sixth,  the  "Basin  of  the  Columbia,"  lying  across  the  northern  flanks 
of  the  two  last,  and  grand  above  them  all  in  position  and  configuration. 
Many  great  rivers,  besides  the  Snake  and  Upper  Columbia,  descend  from 
the  great  arc  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  where  it  circles  towards  the  northwest 
from  43°  to  52°,  flow  from  e<i)it  to  iccst  and  eoncentra'^j  above  the  Cas- 
cades into  a  single  trunk.  This  here  strikes  the  mighty  Cordillera  of  the 
Andes  (narrowed  to  one  ridge),  and  di.sgorges  itself  through  this  sublime 
pass  at  once  into  the  open  Pacific. 

It  is  licrc^  descending  by  the  grade  of  this  river  the  whole  distance  from 
tlie  rim  of  the  Valley  of  the  ^Mississippi,  and  through  the  Andes  to  the 
Pacific,  that  the  great  debouch  of  the  American  Continent  towards  the 
West  is  found;  and  here  will  be  the  pathway  of  fature  generations  of  the 
New  World,  as  tlie  people  of  the  Old  W^orld  pass  down  the  Mediterranean 
and  out  by  Gibraltar. 

Above,  the  "  Basin  of  Frazer  River"  forms  a  seventh  of  the  Taiu.k 
Lands.  This  has  burst  a  cafion  through  the  Andes,  and,  like  the  fourth 
and  sixth  basins,  sends  its  waters  to  the  Pa^-ific.  With  the  geography  of 
the  more  northern  region  we  are  imperfectly  acquainted,  knowing,  how- 
ever, that  from  I'uget  Sound  to  Belu'ing's  Strait  the  wall  of  the  Andes 
forms  the  beach  itself  of  the  Pacific,  whilst  the  Sierra  Madre  forms  the 
western  rim  of  tlie  basins  of  the  Saskatchewan  of  Hudson  Bay,  and  the 
Athabasca  of  the  Arctic  Seas. 

Thus,  then,  briefly  we  arrive  at  this  great  cardinal  department  of  the 
geography  of  the  continent,  viz.  ;  the  Tahi.k  Lands, — being  a  longitudi- 


Ml'JM01!A.\J).\    0.\    THE   I'ACIFK;  JiA  ff.HO.i /). 


189 


Iio  Wfst."  This  i,„. 
'•'nlc  and  Ki,i  (ii;,,i(i,., 
|>nlillcra  of  tln'  Andes 
|to  the  fi!iilt'(d'(';dii;,i- 

'•'/"i-aJo)  tlio  liiiiiian 
So  .steni  a  cliaractcr 
aiiis  resiist  the  passatre 

the  Cii.sjiiaii  of  Asia, 
iiid  losing  its  sc-attoivd 
in. 

■s  tlie  nortlu'i-n  flanks 
Ion  and  confiiiuration. 
ilundjja,  descond  from 
towards  tht;  northwest 
rurii'3  above  the  (hn- 
iglity  Cordillera  of  the 
'  tlirougli  this  siihliuie 

le  whole  distance  from 
igh  the  Anrles  to  the 
'ontinent  towards  the 
lire  generations  of  the 
iN'Ji  the  Mediterranean 

'■mtfh  of  tlie  Taiu.k 
i,  and.  like  the  fourth 
ith  the  geograjihy  of 
inted,  knowing,  liow- 
ic  wall  of  the  Andes 
ra  Madre  forms  the 
fudson  liny,  and  the 

1  department  of  the 
— Iieing  a  lonuitndi- 


iial  section  (^ahout  two-sevenths  of  its  whole  ai'ea ),  intermediate  between 
the  two  oeeans,  but  walled  oft'  fnmi  both,  and  having  but  finrc  outlets 
for  its  waters,  viz.  :  the  eanons  of  the  llio  (irande,  the  Colorado,  and  the 
Cdbimliia.  ("olunmar  biusalt  iornis  the  basement  of  this  whole  region, 
and  viilianie  action  is  everywhere  i)r(jminent. 

Its  general  level,  a.seertained  upon  the  lakes  of  the  difl'erent  basins,  is 


aiMii 

IVUILICS  ( 


It  (ilMIO  feet  above  the  sea.    llain  .seldom  fi 


an( 


1  liml 


ler  IS  rare. 


Tl 


ic 


if  mountiuns  which  separate  the  basins  are  often  rugged,  and  capped 
with  perpetual  snow,  whilst  i.solated  masses  of  great  height  elevate  them- 
selves from  the  plains.  This  whole  I'ormati'in  alxjunds  in  the  precious 
metals.     Such  is  the  region  of  the  Taiu.k  Ji.WDs. 

IJiyond  these  is  the  Pacific  .M.MilTlMK  region.  The  great  wall  of  the 
AXDKS,  receding  IVom  the  lieach  ipf  the  I'acilic.  leaves  lu'twei'n  it'clf  and 
the  st'a  a  half  valK'y,  as   it  were,  forming  the  seaboard   slope  from   San 


Dieiiii  to  thi!  Straits  of  Juan  de  1' 


uc; 


This  is  iL'dd  mill 


m  length,  am] 


2(in  bi'oad.      Across  it  descend  U>  the  sea  a  series  of  fine  rivers,  rai 
fror 


iL;in<j 


////  to  north,  like  the  little  streams  desccndinu'  from  the  Ailes^ha- 


nies  to  the  Atlantic.     These  are  the  San   (Jabriel,  the   linenaveiitura, 


th 


.load 


iim   aiut 


'acrainen 


to,  til 


ixmue, 


'Hametl 


I,  aiK 


1  I 


nniHii 


W 


ivers  : 


the  Widlamette  and   Columbia,  the  Cowlit/,    .'hekalis,  and   Xasijually,  of 
Puii'et  Sound. 


Tl 


us  resemtiles  am 


bl. 


id  balii 


mces  tlu'  iiiiirifiiiii 


Sl( 


if  the  Atlantic  side  of 


the  continent ;  but  it  is  vastly  larger  superficially  ;  of  the  highest  agricul- 


tural  I'.xcellence ;    ba.saltic  in   forniatio 


d  1 


iirand   tiev'int 


■y 


,d   th 


]  lowers  o 


f 


description.     The  snowy  jioints  and   voh'anocs  of  the  Andes  are  every- 
where visilde  from  the  sea;  whilst  its  climate  is  entirely  exempt  from  the 


frost 


s  of  winter. 


The  configuration  of  the  Gicrra  jMadre  (the  ^lother  ^Mountain  of  the 
lentlv  massive  and  sublime.     IJising  from  a  bas(>ment 


world)  IS  transcen( 


wlios(>  roots  spread  out  200(1  miles  and  more,  its  crest  splits  almost  cen- 
trally the  Xiiiihrrii  Cohlhinil.  and  diviiles  its  waters  to  the  two  oceans. 


Novel  te 


ms  liavt!   lieen  i 


ntroduced  to  define  its  characteristics.    Misa, 


e.Kprtsses  tin;  level  jilateau.x  of  its  sunnnits.  dtnun.  the  gorges' rent  in 
its  slopes  by  .he  descemling  rivers.  Jhitc,  the  conical  mountains  isolated 
and  trimmed  into  symmetrical  peaks  by  atmosiiheric  corrosion. 

Everylxidy  has  .seen  the  card-houses  built  by  children  in  the  nursery. 


^Ullll(lse  thre(^  o 


'I'l 


th 


)f  tl 


lese  in  a  row. 


liaviim  a  second  storv  over  the  centre 


this  toy  I'amiliarly  delineates  a  transver.so  section  of  the  Sierra  Madre. 
The  top  of  this  upper  story  rejiresents  the  centn.i  primary  mrsn  of  the 
Cordillera — its  summit  a  greiit  plain.  desciMiding  on  both  flanks  by  a  per- 
pendicular wall   of  (JOOO  feet   to  the  level  of  the  nfoitf/  iinsn.  or  steppe. 


II 


Iff 


lili 


190 


APPENDIX. 


i|:'l 


\ 


Towards  the  west  the  second  mesa  fills  the  whole  sjiaee  to  the  Andes, 
whoso  farther  side  descends  ahrujttly  to  the  tide-level  of  the  Pacific.  This 
is  again  wliat  has  been  before  described  at  lengtli  -is  the  GrtEAT  Table 
Lands. 

But  toward.s  the  cast  tlie  siroHd  mesa  forms  a  piedmont,  rent  into  jieaks 
b}'  the  fissures  of  innumerable  streams.  This  piedmont,  called  by  us  the 
Black  Hills,  masks  the  front  of  the  Sierra  Madre  from  end  to  end.  Sn 
completely  is  it  torn  and  rent  by  the  perplexity  of  w<(ter-couri<es,  that 
patches  alone  arc  left  to  define  the  original  plateau.  These  ai'c  the  east- 
ern envelope  of  the  basin  of  the  Yellowstone,  the  Laramie  Plain  (between 
the  Platte.s),  the  Ratone  and  the  Llano  Estacado  of  Texas.  Beneath  this 
the  third  ))n'm  (or  steppe)  is  that  superlative  region,  the  Great  Pkairik 
Plains,  whose  gentle  slope  forms  a  </Iticisto  the  Gulf  through  Texas,  ami 
in  front  to  the  trough  formed  by  the  ^lississippi  Biver  from  Itasca  Lake 
to  the  Balize. 

It  is  this  vastn&ss  of  geographical  configuration  wliich  leads  tlie  glance 
of  the  engineer  with  unerring  certainty  to  that  line  of  natural  grades 
from  ocean  to  ocean,  the  discovery  of  which  mankind  now  awaits  with 
the  keenest  interest,  and  along  wliieh  the  American  nation  is  resolved  to 
construct  the  consummate  work  of  art — the  Asiatic  and  P]rR()PEA.v 
Railway. 

Adva'"  hm  north  along  the  comh  of  the  Sierra  Madre  from  belnw 
Mexico,  you  find  at  the  sources  of  the  Platte  (Sweetwater)  a  wide  gaji. 
where,  the  high  mesa  suddenly  giving  out  for  the  space  of  forty  miles,  the 
second  mesa  passes  through  from  east  to  west,  the  continued  water-ridge 
being  scarcely  perceptible  among  its  gentle  undulations.  Tin's  I'tt  the 
"  South  Pass." 

It  is  so  named  as  being  the  most  southini  pa.«s  to  which  you  may  ascend 
by  an  affluent  of  the  Atlantic,  and  .^tep  immediately  over,  to  a  stnani  de- 
scending directly  to  the  Pacific.  This  name  is  as  ancient  as  the  pass 
itself  Into  it  concentrate  the  great  trails  of  the  bufi'alo,  geographers 
and  road-makers  by  wsti'ncf,  before  the  coming  of  man. 

The  Indian,  the  Mexican,  and  the  American,  successors  of  one  another, 
have  not  improved  or  deflected  from  the  instincts  of  the  bufi'alo.  nor  will 
they,  whilst  the  mountains  last  in  their  present  un.«hattered  bulk.  The 
South  Pass  has  a  towering  grandeur,  in  keei)ing  with  the  rivers  between 
which  it  is  the  avenue  (the  Mi.«souri.  the  Colorado,  and  the  Columbia),  all 
of  which.  i.s,suing  from  the  wall  of  the  Wind  River  Mountain,  come  out 
of  it  upon  the  second  mesa,  at  the  saiiic  hn/.  and  into  which  they  imme- 
diately coniD'cnce  burrowing  tlieir  caf.ons  of  descent  to  the  seas. 

Here,  then,  is  the  route,  the  sonthrrn  route,  of  the  Nation,:!  Railroad. 


ascending  b^ 

where  it  for 

of  the  high 

water-grade 

The  dista 

ascertained, 

the  Salt  B 

plane,  to  fit 

tation  exist 

where  the 

so  that  the 

there  any  i 

between  th 

The  Col 

tributes  th 

and  tunne 

whole  coui 

American 

feet,  200 

This  rivei 

admit  of; 

immenselj 

transporta 

The  gr( 

ing  into  tl 

affluents 

fathomed 

ridges,  an 

Here  ii 

great  hei 

explore  o 

1)1  a  dire 

Pacific,  t 

The  ri 

deep  int' 

sinific  pa: 

interlock 

South  F 

Thus 

exists  n( 

rivers,  t^ 


MEMOIiAXDA    OX    THE   PACIFIC  RAILROAD. 


191 


sjiaco  to  the  Aiidof;, 
|1  of  the  Pacific.    This 
'.-*  the  GijKAT  Table 

liiiont,  rent  into  peaks 
[iKint.  calk'd  hy  u.s  the 
Tom  enil  to  end.     ^n 
if  w«ter-cour,>Jes,  tluit 
These  are  the  east- 
ram  ie  Plain  (between 
Texas.    Beneath  tliis 
•  tiie  GrtKAT  i'HAIlilK 
If  throuuli  Texas,  and 
ver  from  Ita.>^ea  Lake 

liieh  Iead,s  tlie  rihuici: 
ne  of  natural  grades 
ind  now  awaits  with 
I  nation  is  resolved  to 

TIC    AXD    ElRdPKA.V 

a  Madro  from  belnw 
setwater)  a  wide  ^'aji, 
;ice  of  forty  miles,  the 
I'ontinued  water-ridue 
ilations.      Tim  k  the 

hieh  you  may  ascend 
over,  to  a  stream  de- 
aneient  as  tlie  iia,«.s 
buffalo,  a'eorrrajiliei's 
in. 

.s.sors  of  one  another. 
the  buffalo,  nor  will 
lattered  bulk.  The 
I  the  rivers  Iti^tween 
1  the  Columbia),  all 
^fountain.  ennie  out 
3  which  they  imme- 
<>  the  Seas. 
Xatioii,!  Piailroad. 


ascending  by  the  water-grade  of  the  Platte  to  the  top  of  the  second  nie.sa, 
where  it  fijrms  the  summit,  following  the  level  of  this  mesa  along  the  base 
of  the  high  mesa,  to  the  Columbia  (Snake  Eiver),  and  descending  its 
water-grade  clear  to  the  Pacific. 

The  distance  from  the  Platte  to  the  Columbia  has  not  been  accurately 
ascertained,  though  by  the  present  wagon-road,  which  crosses  a  corner  of 
the  Salt  Basin,  it  is  less  than  300  miles.  Here  is  that  double-inclined 
plane,  to  find  which  has  been  the  first  e.s.sential  in  every  line  of  transpor- 
tation existing  iu  the  world.  There  is  none  south  of  this,  because  every- 
where the  basins  of  the  Table  Lands  overlap  and  envelop  one  another, 
so  that  the  passes  lead  merely  from  one  of  these  into  another ;  nor  are 
there  any  natural  tunnels  through  the  precipitous  walls  of  the  Andes,  and 
between  the  basins. 

The  Columbia,  running  across  the  Table  Lands  from  ea.st  to  west,  dis- 
tributes the  descent  of  8500  feet  efjually  along  its  course  of  1200  miles, 
and  tunnels  the  great  ranges  of  Blue  ^Mountains  and  the  Andes.  This 
whole  course  of  the  river  is  a  continuity  of  rapids,  having  three  falls,  the 
American  Falls  of  thirty  feet  at  Portneuf,  the  Salmon  Falls  of  forty-five 
feet,  200  miles  below,  and  the  Chuttes  of  twelve  feet,  near  the  Dalles. 
This  river-grade  is  then  as  rapid  as  the  descent  to  be  accomplished  will 
admit  of;  for,  distributed  into  long  levels  and  steep  grades,  it  would 
immen.«ely  impair  the  utility  of  the  whole  work,  and  fatally  impede 
transportation. 

The  great  Colorado  runs  diagonally  across  the  Table  Lands,  cirhouch- 
■incj  into  the  Gulf  of  California ;  but  has  its  course  and  tho.se  of  its  great 
affluents  parallel  with  the  mountain  ranges,  which  are  scored  with  un- 
fathomed  caiions,  perplexing  the  traveller  with  an  infinity  of  impassable 
ridges,  among  which  the  water-courses  are  embowclled. 

Here  is  that  immense  and  complex  labyrinth  of  mountain  ribs,  whose 
great  height  and  arid  character  have  heretofore  defied  every  effort  to 
explore  or  penetrate.  Its  impenetrability  cannot  be  made  to  yield  to  art, 
in  a  direct  line,  owing  to  the  whole  space  from  the  Sierra  ]Madre  to  the 
Pacific,  bristling  with  parallel  ribs  of  snowy  mountains. 

The  rivers  penetrate  these  diagonally,  and  are  sunk  in  caiions,  burrowed 
deep  into  their  roots.  North  of  the  South  Pass,  however,  exist  many 
sinr/k  passes,  where  the  higher  branches  of  the  Missouri  and  Columbia 
interlock.  These  circuitous  routes  have  all  the  same  termini  as  that  of  the 
South  Pass,  for  they  also  descend  the  same  two  rivers  to  the  seas. 

Thus  between  the  South  Pass  and  the  Isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  there 
exists  no  straight  railroad  route,  owing  to  the  longitudinal  courses  of  the 
rivers,  the  complexity  of  the  basins,  and  the  double  barrier  of  primary 


■i       !     i<  i 


i. 


192 


A/'PK.XniX. 


mountiiin  diiiins.  To  the  iinrtli,  other  passes  exist,  wliich  future  uiiicra- 
tions  may  ilevelop,  and  ou  which  uavipition  may  he  used  for  I'our-til'tlis  ot 
the  whole  distance. 

True  it  is  tliat  potential  fashion  now  exalts  tlie  nairitinii  husiii  nf  Cali- 
fornia. 8an  Francisco  Bay.  into  tlie  haven  of  hope  and  fortune  of  the  new 
.«eahoard,  whilst  the  suhlinie  hasin  of  the  Columhia  and  its  ma^iiiticent 
rinr  /mr/xirs  iwo,  banished  from  j)uhlie  favor.  The  hasin  of  San  Fran- 
cisco is  small,  and  an  isolated  sjiot  to  reach  from  the  interior.  No  ureal 
river  gives  it  access  to  the  Mississippi  Valley,  from  which  it  is  cut  off  Ity 
the  basins  of  the  Salt  Lake,  the  Colorado,  and  the  Del  Xorte,  overlapping 
each  other. 

The  Columbia  is  larger  than  the  Danube,  and  equal  to  the  Ganges.  In 
size,  climate,  agricultural  excellence,  capacity  for  population,  and  its  won- 
derful circular  configuration,  the  ))asin  of  the  Columbia  surpasses  liotli  of 
these  others.  The  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  a  salient  point  upon  the  npcn 
eoast,  more  than  any  other  central  and  convenient  to  tlie  whole  Xnrth 
Pacific  and  Asia,  is,  in  size,  dej)th  of  water,  sifety,  and  facility  of  ingress 
or  cgre.^s,  ecpial  to  San  Francisco.  As  the  mouth  of  the  greatest  river 
descending  fmm  our  continent  into  the  Pacific,  it  is  perhajxs  more  valuable. 
It  is  eight  degrees  south  of  Liverpool,  having  the  climate  of  Bordeaux, 
Marseilles,  or  Savannah. 

Why  is  not  the  deep  sea  navigation  concentrated  at  XnrfulJi-,  on  Hamp- 
ton Beads,  the  finest  liarbor  of  the  wliole  Atlantic  ?  Why,  rather,  is  it 
found  at  New  York  and  New  Orleans,  accessible  only  through  every  dan- 
ger that  can  menace  shipping  ?  Why,  because  the  former  is  the  outlet 
of  the  basin  of  the  'St.  Lawrence,  the  latter  of  the  Mississippi.  Th<!  ship- 
ping of  commerce  goes  to  where  cargoes  can  be  found. 

TiCss  than  fifty  years  ajxo./iis/u'on  pronounced  the  little  ravines  of  James 
Biver  and  the  Connecticut  the  proud  spots  of  America,  and  held  the  great 
uninhabitable  wastes  of  the  ^Ii.<si.ssippi  and  its  uHnavlffatcd  streams  as 
worthy  only  to  balance  ci>if/ish .' 

This  same  splenetic  spirit  of /'rs/i/o)(  now  manufactures  a  similarly  ridic- 
ulous misdirection  for  the  energy  of  the  pioneers,  by  setting  up  what  the 
geologist  would  call  a  ''  pot-hole  of  the  Andes,"  against  the  grand  Colum- 
bia. Commerce,  provident  like  every  other  de]iartinent  of  industry,  makes 
herself  harbors  with  charts,  pilots,  buoys,  and  beacons.  The  shallowest 
channel  of  the  Columbia  ha,s  thirty-five  feet  of  water — the  deepest  of  New 
York  twenty-nine. 

Thus  doea  Xatuhk,  piously  appealed  to,  and  calmly  consulted,  exhaust, 
bring  to  a  close,  and  settle,  by  eternal  facts,  the  various  oj^'nious  which 


wliich  futuiv  pvncra- 
uscd  fur  iliiir-tirilis  of 

(irttltui  Icisiii  (it'Cali- 
(1  f'nrtiine  of  tlio  new 
ami  its  nia<.niiK(('iit 
Iiasin  of  ,<;m  Fi-mh- 
0  iiiti-rior.  No  o-roat 
wliich  it  is  lut  of}'  by 
t'l  Xorte,  ovorlajiiiiug 

al  to  tlu'  Gaiiiics.    In 

lulatioii.  and  its  won- 

bia  suvpasst's  botli  of 

IRiiiit  upon  tlic  ojH'n 

to  the  whob>  North 

lind  facility  of  ingvoss 

if  tlio  iircatost  river 

■rhajis  more  vahiabie. 

climate  of  Bordeaux, 

it  Xnrfi,!],-.  on  ITanip- 
'  Why,  rather,  is  it 
y  through  every  dan- 
fonner  is  the  outlet 
[ississippi.  Thi;  ship- 
d. 

ttlo  ravines  of  James 
?a,  and  held  the  great 
tavi'gntcd  streams  as 

ires  a  similarly  ridic- 
setting  up  what  the 
ist  the  grand  Colum- 
t  of  industry,  makes 
ms.  The  shallowest 
-the  deepest  of  New 


,'  consulted,  exhaust, 
ious  opinions  which 


MEMOIIAXDA    0\    THE  PACIFIC  UMLItOAh. 


VX 


perplex  the  public  mind  in  locating  the  continental  railroad.  The  national 
will  must  wisely  listen  to  an<l  oln'y  her  jiromptings.  Postponement,  defeat, 
and  failure  will  overwhelm  every  effort  to  depart  from  the  water-grade, 
or  to  penetrate,  perforate,  or  surmount  in  any  other  way  the  Titanic  rigidity 
of  the  table  lands. 

The  obstinate  advocacy  of  any  other  route  is  insidious  and  hostile  in 
the  bi'iip  to  the  worl  entirely.  The  irnfrr-i/riK/r  of  flu'  continent  is  simply 
this  : — The  road,  leaving  the  west  bank  of  the  Mi.ssouri.  pursues  the  IMatte 
Kiver  along  the  facile  a.scent  of  its  south  bank  to  the  South  Pass;  this 
is  some  Tod  miles:  thence  along  the  smooth  /m-/  of  the  South  Pass.  250 
miles  to  Snake  Kiver:  thence  down  tlu;  facili;  descent  of  Snake  River  to 
the  Columbia,  U(K)  mile.s.  This  route  is  the  xhitrti'nt  and  best  acro.ss 
America ;  it  is,  in  practical  fact,  a  /iir/  from  end  to  end ;  the  grading  is 
conipli'te  throughout ;  the  mountains  are  all  tunnelled ;  the  climate  dry 
and  projiitious. 

There  remain  to  be  described  the  peculiarities  of  climate,  and  the  bear- 
ing upon  our  subject  of  the  immense  interests  of  ocean  commerce  and 
political  power. 


CHAPTER    III. 


In  two  former  chapters  I  have  endeavored  to  grasp  the  geographical 
view  of  the  t(»NTlXKXTAL  RAILWAY — to  wiiuiow  its  immense  com- 
plexity— to  shake  loo.se  a  few  simple /J/cAs'  engorged  in  obscurity — aud  to 
stand  face  to  face  aud  in  council  with  Nature. 

We  have  seen  that  Xatiire,  thus  candidly  appealed  to,  leads  us  point 
blank  to  the  supreme  pass  of  the  continent,  the  SolTH  Pass,  and  then  i 
traces  with  her  unerring  finger  to  the  right,  and  to  the  left,  the  double 
water-grade  to  the  seas — by  the  Platte  to  the  Atlantic,  by  the  Snake 
Kiver  to  d  Pacific. 

But  public  opinion  is  perplexed  by  a  systematic  obscuration  oi' /nets, 
long  and  vehemently  repeated,  in  other  things  besides  geography.  This 
route  is  pronounced  northern;  the  climate  hostile;  accunuilated  snows 
are  insisted  upon  ;  the  Indians  impracticable  ;  the  work  itself  herculean  ; 
population,  provisions,  material  to  build,  and  work  for  the  road,  wanting ; 
the  length  of  the  road  is  pronounced  insuperable,  and  its  cost  enormous. 
These  objections  all  tall  absolutely  before  a  ^i:\\  facts  of  nature,  here  emi- 
nently clear  and  emphatic.     Let  us  appeal  to  them  and  decide  ! 

13 


n 


194 


A  PI'EXlJlX. 


Climate  controls  the  nii<:ratioiis  of  the  huniiin  race,  which  liave 
steadily  adlu'reil  to  an  '•  ixuthi rtn<il  r.ndinc"  or  hjlt  of  equal  warmth, 
around  the  world.  The  extremely  mild  temperature  of  our  visfcni  sea- 
hoard  is  the  consequence  of  the  same  great  laws  of  nature  which  o]ur;ito 
in  WcMcrn  Europe.  These  are  the  reuular  and  fixed  ordinances  nf  the 
code  of  nature,  to  which  the  mijrrations  of  man,  in  common  with  the 
animals,  yield  an  instinctive  ohedience. 

AVithin  the  fonid  zone  of  the  glohe,  from  the  etjuator  to  the  liStli 
di'gree  of  north  latitude,  hlow  the  tnu/e  iciiK/a  and  vnridUcs,  always  /'/v-//( 
the  east  and  northeast,  all  round  the  world.  IJut  in  the  sueceedinu'  licit 
from  28°  to  (10°,  the  winds  have  an  opposite  or  compensating  uirection, 
/riiiii  the  west  and  southwest,  all  round  the  glohe. 

These  latter  wind-currents  reach  the  insfcni  coasts  of  America  v.m\ 
Eurojje  after  traversinji'  the  expan.se  of  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic  Oceans. 
Warmed  to  the  temperature  of  these  oceans,  they  iiiijidif  again  this  same 
mild  atmosphere  to  the  maritime  fronts  of  the  continents  which  receive 
them.  These  same  winds,  passing  onward  over  great  extensions  of  con- 
tinent of  loAv  temjierature,  covered  with  snow  or  frozen  during  winter : 
often  warped  upwards  by  mountain  ranges,  becoming  exhausted  of  tlicir 
warmth,  have,  upon  the  cusfirn  expansions  of  the  continents,  an  exactly 
opjiosite  effect  upon  the  climate. 

Hence  the  variant  temperature  of  New  York,  and  Li.shon,  in  P(n-tugal, 
which  face  one  another,  on  opposite  sides  of  the  Atlantic — of  8an  Fran- 
cisco, aud  Pekin,  in  China,  similarly  opposite,  upon  the  Pacific. 

At  San  Francisco  and  at  Lisbon,  the  sea.sons  arc  but  modulations  of  one 
contiimous  summer.  At  New  York  and  at  IV-kin,  winter  annually  sus- 
jiends  vegetation  during  seven  months,  whilst  ice  and  snow  bind  up  the 
land  and  waters.  These  four  citie.s  arc  all  close  upon  the  same  parallel 
of  latitude,  thojhrtirth  degree  north. 

Thus  is  it  manifest  why  in  As'i  the  mass  of  population  is  congre- 
gated on  and  south  of  theyo/'//(//i  degree,  and  in  Europe  north  of  it.  In 
America  it  again  curves  to  the  south  on  the  eastern  face  of  our  continent, 
to  rise  northward  again  on  the  warm  Pacific  coast.  Within  this  undu- 
lating belt  of  the  north  fniiprrate  zone,  in  breadth  Jibout  thirty-three  de- 
grees, are  included  four-fifths  of  all  the  laud  and  nine-tenths  of  the  world's 
population. 

Hero  has  been  the  progressive  march  of  the  human  race  round  the 
world,  eomineiicing  in  the  farthest  (Jrfnit,i\nd  forming  a  zodiac  of  nations 
towards  the  setting  sun.  In  this  have  been  retained  similar  tastes,  simi- 
lar industrial  pursuits,  similar  food  and  clothing,  requiring  similarity  of 
climate,  and  recoiling  alike  fnnn  the  torrid  and  from  the  arctic  zones. 


MEMOllAXDA    OX    THE   PACIFIC  IlAILIiOAI). 


VX) 


If.  tlu'ii,  the  iniiid  irtains  the  sinijdc  facts,  that  all  our  pivscnt  terri- 
tory between  the  oeeans  lies  within  this  /.diic,  where  the  wimls  flow  always 
j'l-um  the  west,  we  arrive  at  the  solution,  as  well  of  the  different  nioditica- 
tions  of  climate  along  the  same  parallel  of  latitude,  as  of  the  variety  in  the 
veiretahle  cuverinu'  of  the  surface: — irhi/ the  tusfmi  pi/r/ioii  is  clothed 
with  dense  fevests,  the  cnttnil  jxirtinu  with  prairie  jrra.«ses  only,  and  why 
the  great  fertile  plains  of  the  liigh  mountains  and  of  the  Tn/iii  Lunds  arc 
yet  of  an  arid  hardnes.s  and  naked  of  all  inliorcicnifr. 

Tiie  amount  of  irrigating  rains  falling  u]ion  the  face  of  the  land  from 
the  clitiuh,  regulates  this.  The  oceans  are  the  reservoirs  which  supply  clouds 
to  the  atmosphere.  The  vapors,  rising  from  the  whole  surface  of  the 
ocean  into  the  higher  regions  of  tin;  atmosphere,  form  tliemselves.  at  a  cold 
elevation,  into  natural  halloons,  or  clouds. 

These,  carried  })y  currents  of  air  over  the  land,  and  rising  still  liigher. 
become  condensed  and  distil  themselves  upon  the  earth  in  the  form  cif 
rain.  Those  holding  vapor  in  the  form  least  concentrated,  spill  it  out  in 
the  regions  near  the  sea.  Others  attain  to  a  high  degree  of  concentra- 
tion, retaining  the  form  of  clouds  until  they  reach  the  central  regio.ns  of 
the  continents  and  a  great  elevation. 

But  we  have  seen  that  the  great  snoin/  Cordillera  of  the  Andes  lines 
the  whole  n-rsfrrn  seaboard  of  Xorth  America,  lu-ing  in  sight  f)f  vessels 
sailing  up  the  sea,  from  the  Gulf  of  California  to  l^ehring's  Strail.  The 
winds  coming  from  the  u-rxf  and  over  tlie  ocean,  blow  against  this  wall. 
On  this  elevated  summit  of  perpetual  congelation,  water  becomes  ice.  as 
solid  and  permanent  as  the  cold  lava-rock.  The  irrigating  influence  of 
the  Pnci'fic  Orran  is  liere  abruptly  sto]iped  and  entirely  ceases. 

The  great  rnsfirii  slo])e  ofaiir  continent,  however,  descending  by  gentle 
inclined  planes  to  all  the  seas,  receives,  without  any  geographical  inter- 
ruption, the  irrigating  winds  and  clouds  of  tlmse  seas.  Tlu^  barrier  of  the 
Alleghanies  (finiiiu'sJus.  but  does  not  sfap,  the  inflowing  of  vapors.  Hut  we 
have  seen  that  the  winds  blow  perpetually  //'o/u  the  icpsf.  The  inwai'd 
progress,  then,  of  the  atmospheric  vapors  is  by  this  continually  repelled. 

The  vvgctatum  of  the  continent  reveals  to  us  the  result  of  this  conflict 
between  winds  and  the  gradual  exhaustion  of  the  atmosplu-ric  vajiors. 
with  an  exactness  as  comi)lete  as  that  with  which  the  thermometer  indi- 
cates temperature. 

The  VKU-Ithne  ilrrlh-if//.  the  Alleghanies,  and  the  countries  between  thi' 
latter  and  the  troiii/hn  of  the  Mississip])i  and  St.  Tiawrence.  are  densely  clad 
with  timber.  So  are  the  States  of  Louisiana.  Arkansas,  and  Smitli  3Iissouri ; 
receiving  clouds  from  the  Gulf  partly,  and  partly  from  the  Atlantic.  ll'<>/- 
wanl  and  norttnciird  the  tindier  gradually  tapers  away;  still  following  in 


11»(5 


Ari'KMUX. 


\\ 


i    • 


narrow  lines  alonj;  tlio  rivcrw,  but  Iwiviu};  tho  uplands  and  riches  (o  the 
luxuriant  jirairic  fiiassi's.  Soon,  liowfVt'r,  the  (iiii/wr  abanddu.s  its  stiuf;- 
jilc  t(i  firow,  and  ceases  entirely. 

Oiiuiinf,  however,  from  tlie  last  fringe  of  tinilier,  for  some  liinidicd 
miles,  the  irrijiation  continue.s  to  preserve  the  mellowness  of  the  snil. 
and  a  sward  of  tall,  luxuriant  j;rasses  covers  the  wliole  smooth  expanse  ol' 
nature.  Tiiis,  in  turn,  gradually  dwarfs  under  the  decreasini:  iniuatioii, 
taperini;  into  the  ileliwite  curled  gra.ss  of  the  buffalo  plains,  which  is  scarce 
half  an  inch  in  height,  and  resembles  the  wool  of  a  lamb. 

Fiii(i//i/,  grass  itself  fails,  and  the  general  characteristic  of  the  siwface 
ol"  the  great  Sierra   Madre  and  the  plateau  of  t\w  Table    Lands  is  total 


nakedness  of  any  nutritious  vt'j 


[■tabl 


e  coverini. 


Tl 


le  soil  is  either  com 


I)actly  hard,  or  resembles  dry  ashes.  The  surface  is  lu-re  sparsely  clothed 
with  dwarl'ed  wormwood  and  the  prickly  pear, — funereal  plants,  whicli 
seem  as  careless  of  moistiu'e  ii.s  is  tiu'  salamander  of  tire. 

Such  an;  the  great  primary  laws  of  Nature  which  decide  the  climate 
and  vegetation  of  our  continent.  !nt<'rruptions  and  modifications  of  tlie.'<e 
laws  are  iniuimerable.  Xa/iirr  i<  vrtn/irlurf  in'xr.  ('om]pi'iisations  exist 
in  all  the.s(;  countries,  so  eccentrically  novel  to  us,  which  will  win  iiir  them 
the  densi'st  populations.      No  de.scjrts  of  silicious  .sand,  like  tho.se  of  Arabia 


and 


Al 


rica,  e.xist  in  America,  nor  are  sm-h  possil)le 


Th 


dyf 


w.  oidv  iormation 


)f  silicious  sand  is  the  Atlantic  declivity,  whose  .soil  .soon  wa.stes  under 


L-ult 


ure 


an 


d  the  ocetin  washes  f/n'n 


Th 


ii'cat  bowl  made  up  of  the  basins  of  the  interior  is  everywl 


lero 


cii/cdiriiiis.  The  soil  which  covers  the  two  great  Cordilleras,  the  I'.Mti.K 
liA.XDS  and  the  Pacific  declivity,  is  the  intrinsically  fertile  decay  of  ba.saltic 
and  lava  formations.  Tliirxt  (i/did-  causes  it«  nakedness  aiul  a]iparent 
aridity.  Win  re  this  thirst  is  quenched  with  a  frugal  supply  of  wat"i'.  it 
slmws  an  abumlant  and  inexhaustible  fi;rtility.  (ireat  rivers  are  every- 
wiiere  full  and  convenient. 


Tl 


HIS    »\V. 


dl    tl 


U'    SUCC( 


.ssive  varieties  of  climate.  ve<ietati( 


)n,  an( 


1  soil 


explained  by  the  gradual  atteiunition  of  the  rains,  as  we  recede  'rom  tlu' 
ocean.  Vicr  rriKii,  these  conditions  of  the  atmosphere  and  land  atte.-<t 
the  ab.sencc  of  vapor  in  the  ibrmer.      .\ll  secondary  jihenoniena,  such  as 


tin;  annual  fires  of  the  great  jirair..  if  long  gra.ss,  are  conse(|uences  of 
the  aridity  of  the  autumnal  and  winter  atmosjihere,  and  not  caiiurs  of  the 
absence  of  timber. 

A</in'ii,  the  elevation  of  the  plain  of  the  Smilli  /\iss  is  7S()(I  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  streams  which  c<illect  and  carry  off  its  waters — Swi-etwater 
to  the  east  and  Sandy  to  the  west— are  only  larg<'  rini/rfa.  though  their 
courses  are  long.     The  amount  of  rain   in  summtir  and  xnoic  in   iciiiler 


.i/a;.i/o/m.\7/.i  o.v  the  pacjfiv  nAiLiioin. 


id: 


irids  and  riches  (o  tlio 
'(■/•  iihamloiKs  its  stiuir. 

r.  for  Sdiiii-  liuiidnMl 
Inwiicss  oi'  tlif  soil. 
)1(;  siiiootli  i'X|iaiist'  df 
Iccri'asiiiji'  irriuatidii, 
(laiiis,  wliicli  is  scarue 
mill. 

tcri.stic  of  tli(!  surliico 
Tabic  Lands  is  total 
'lie  soil  is  either  ciini- 
<  here  s)iars(Iy  elolhcd 
iinereal  jilants.  which 
•  Kre. 

eh  decide  the  climate 

modifications  of  these 

('oni|iensations  exist 

lieli  will  win  flir  them 

d.  like  tlntse  of  Araliia 

1     Tin-  oidy  flmnation 

oil  soon  wastes  under 

nterior  is  every wliere 
'ordilleras,  the  T.MiKK 
ertile  decay  of  hasidtic 
kedness  and  apnarent 
al  sninily  of  water,  it 
reat  rivers  are  eveiy- 

.  V(i:;e(ation,  and  soil 
lis  wo  recede  <rom  tlie 
)here  and  land  attest 
'  |)li(!noinena.  sucli  as 
are  consefjuences  of 
and  not  nnisrs  of  the 

/.V.S-  is  7S(I(I  feet  ahove 

■<  waters — Sweetwater 

vinihia.  thoiiiih  their 

and   tiiKiu:  lit    tciii/er 


upon  tlu"  wafer-irrade  of  the  Platte  and  Snake  Hivers.  and  in  the  South 
I'ass  lietween  them,  is  so  in.-iirnificant  as  to  hear  no  com|(arison  in  amount 
with  those  between  Hi»t<in  and  Uufl'alo  ! 

Hut  the  .■ituiK-ndous  ma.vies  nf  the  Wind  lliver  .Mountains  rise  in  the 
northern  hori/oii  of  the  Soutli  I'ass  to  an  altitude  of  14.0(1(1  feet.     Their 


ureal  elevation   draws  down   the   va]iors   lett    in   tlie  atmos])liere.    which 
clothe  their  summit.'-  with  jierjx'tiial.  and  their  flanks  with  winter  snows. 
The.se  su|n>ly  wators  to  tlie  j:reat  rivers,  and  cover  the  flanks  and  iroii^cs 
of  the  ''reat   mountains  with   immen.se   forests.     The  same   is  the  case 


elsewhere  w 


ith  the  L'reat  /niiinin/  mountain  chains,  siicli  as  the  Ital 


I  or 


Wa.sitch  and   tht 


ilmon   liiver 


.Ml 


iintains 


lint    th 


,/, 


le  siriiiiiiiiri/  ninun- 


tainsand  |ia.s.ses  are  entirely  naked  of  timher,  havini;  uiion  them  neither 


rams  nor  snows  at  anv  season. 


Hut 


an   e.xtraordiuarv   /</ 


./   1 


lere    ( 


level. 


it.self.      If  W 


iim 


th 


]ioint 


kliere  the  junction  of  .-ievcral  small  streams  forms  the  Kansas  Kiver.  I2tl 


m 


iles  due  west  from  the  Mis.-iouri  River,  tis  a  rrnfrr,  a  cin 


lie  1 


)e  lU'scri 


l.e.1 


touching    the    boundary   line  of  41l^    as    a    tangent,   the    ojijiosite    side 
of    the  circle    will   ]>ass  tlirough    the   seaport    of    Matagorda    in    Texas, 


tl 


irouif 


ii   \ew  Orleans  and   .MohiU 


Th 


ml 


nt   is.  therefore,  th 


t'  II  iirri'. 


n( 


tith  and  south,  of  our  countrv.      If  from  the  sm 


end 


rr  a  larirer  circle 


he  described,  it  will  pass  through  San  Franci.sco.  and  through  ^'ancouver 
City,  on  the  Columbia,  exactly  grazing  the  whole  coast  between  them. 
The  .same  circle  will  jia.ss  through  (.fiiebec  and  Boston  on  the  Atlantic, 
through  /Iiiriiini  on  thetiu"'.  and  through  the  city  of  Mc.i'iro.  The  same 
point  is  then  tlie  r/-«/re  between  the  oceans. 

Thus,  at  the  forks  of  the  Kansas  Itiver  a  ])oint  exists,  in  latitude  ."JS" 


-t.j',  and  loiiiritude  DT 


Wl' 


■it  of  (ireenwich.  which  is  the  Hva 


KiK.Vl'IIKA!, 


Ck.vtkk — north  and  .south,  east  ami  west — at  once  of  our  whole  national 
territory,  of  the  ba-sin  of  the  Mississijipi,  and  of  the  continent  of  North 
America  ! 

'Hw /luf.t.  then,  which  concentrate  thenis(.'lves  to  locate  the  ('niifiiKii/nf 
Riiiliriii/  at  the  line  of  wator-grades  from  ocean  to  ocean,  sum  them.selves 
up  conclusively  in  its  f;ivor  and  against  all  others. 

From  Baltimore  and  New  York,  through  St.  Louis  to  Kansas,  this 
road  is  now  under  contract  and  construction.  For  this  distance  the  route 
traverses  a  country  guttered  with  rivers :  interruptcMl  by  the  narrow  and 
abrujit  ribs  of  the  Alleghany  chain  :  covered  with  timber:  having  a  fitful 
climate  vexed  with  immense  niins  and  snows:  the  surface  infinitelv  chan- 


nelled with  water-»iuii-s*'s  and 


itl 


]u'rplexe(l  witli  innumerahle  ravines,  alter 


blc 


iiltc 


nating  with  stwp  am'  narrow  hills. 

Yet  this  half  of  tho  wliole  road  progresses  over  all  the.sc  difficulties 


198 


Ari'EXDlX. 


with  sufh  ease  und  celerity,  tliat  armimeiit  of  it.s  iiii|iia(  tieal)ility  is  imt 
tolerated.  But  a^;aiiist  the  remaining  half  (if  the  mad,  from  KaiiNis  to 
Astoria,  these  armuiieiits  are  tolerated,  though  in  truth  thej  have  all  ceasfil, 
and  sueh  ohst ructions  and  inijiedinieiits  have  no  existence  in  inihiri . 

The  reniaining  hulf  from  Kansas  to  Astoria  crosses  no  river  of  any 
niaj.'nitude,  yet  |»ursue.s  tlie  hanks  of  great  rivers  continuously  the  wlinj,. 
distance.  The  hanks  of  these  rivijrs,  risinj;-  hut  a  few  feet  ahove  tin' 
water  surface,  are  of  iniini'Mse  width,  iierfeclly  hard  and  dry,  and  snmoili 
a.^  a  water  levi'l.  Such  is  the  general  characteristic  uf  the  I'latte  and 
(.'oluiuhia  from  end  to  end. 

The  jtlain  of  the  Smitlt  /'ass  is  almost  as  .smooth  and  hard  as  a  niiulilc 
pavement,  and  is  of  a  general  lireadth  e.\c(,'eding  thirty  niili'S.  Not  a 
single  eminence  cxi.sts  in  the  whole  distance  hut  is  tunnelled  hy  these 
rivers  tlown  to  the  general  grade.  On  the  track  everywhere  is  material 
in  every  variety  ol"  i'orm  and  in  tlii^  suhliniest  ahundaiici'. 

Jiumher  exists  in  ahundance  in  the  high  mountains  to  the  right  and 
left.  Iron  can  he  sujiplied  at  the  ends  and  ujion  the  navigalile  rivers, 
hrought  from  Eurojie  if  necessary,  as  it  now  comes  for  nearly  all  the  rail- 
roads in  America.  Mineral  coal  is  abundant  from  end  to  end.  ixock  in 
every  variety — granite,  basalt,  lava,  limestone,  and  gyjjsum.  The  I'latte 
jieiforates  a  great  range  of  mountains  of  (/i/psiiiii  ;  the  .Snake  River  a 
less  one  of  nivlc-ault. 

This  route  is  not  lunthi  rn.  liut  r.nictfi/  antnil.  The  sublime  order 
and  fitness  ol'  Nature  seems  here  jire-eminently  to  vindicate  and  e.\i'm|iliiy 
it.self.  Upon  the  Kan.sas  River  it  jilunibs  the  giutgraidiical  centre  of  the 
national  territory.  From  hence  it  curves  northward  to  Baltimore,  the 
most  Kiiiit/irni  Atlantic  city  of  great  commercial  activity.  It  curves 
gently  to  the  northward  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  This  is  in  lati- 
tude 4()°  I'.y,  being  three  degrees  .south  of  Havre  in  France,  and  eight 
degrees  south  of  Liverpool  and  Amsterdam. 

Vet  the  climate  of  Western  America  is  milder  than  that  of  Western 
HuroiPC.  It  is  al.so  upon  the  coasts  extending  fifteen  <legrees  north  of  the 
Columbia  that  the  murine  of  the  Pacific  will  be  constructed,  as  lu-re  are 
combined  the  conveniences  of  sea-harbors  and  forests.  It  is  in  the  Raltic 
and  British  I.sles  that  all  the  vinn'tir  of  Europe  is  built  and  owned.  It  is 
likewi.se  on  the  St.  Lawri'iice  and  in  New  England  that  the  murine  of 
America  is  constructed  and  owned. 

To  speak  of  the  obstruction  of  ImUanx  ujion  the  route  is  a  monstrous 
hnr/isijKc.  The  whole  aggregate  nundier  of  men,  women,  and  children, 
within  several  hundred  miles  along  the  flanks  of  this  rout-e,  does  mil 
amount  to  nine  tlioasand,  or  one-fifth  of  the  pojjulation  of  Washington 


ill 


liiipriK  ti(iil)ility  is  rmt 

loilll,  IVciIU    K;i|isi.s    t<i 

111  till'}  Iiiivcall  ((ii.s,.,!^ 
|it('iif(!  ill  iin/iin . 
lisM'M  III)  river  (,{'  miy 
|Mitiminiisly  tlic  wliiil,. 
li'W  i'cct  iilmvc  ill,, 
and  (Irv,  ;iiiil  .siiio<>t|| 
fie  ipf  tlif    I'liittc  iiiid 

and  hard  as  a  inailili. 

tliiity  miles.  \,,t  ., 
is  tunnelled  liy  these 
verywhero  is  material 
laiiee. 

ins  t(t  tile  ridit  ami 
the  naviualde  rivers, 
(ir  nearly  all  the  lail- 
nd  to  end.  JIuek  in 
yi>siim.      The  I'hitte 

the  Siiako  lliver  a 

The  suliliiiie  order 
iidieato  and  o.\em|ilily 
rajdiieal  centre  of  tin- 
rd  to  Iialtiiiiore,  the 
activity.  It  curves 
I)ia.  This  is  in  lati- 
iii   France,  and  eitiht 

hull  that  of  Western 
dcj!;rees  north  of  tlu; 

istiHicted,  as  liere  are 
It  is  in  tlie  Baltic 

ilt  and  owned.  It  is 
that  the  iiiiin'iie  of 

route  is  a  monstrous 
(imeii,  and  children. 
;his  rout«,  does  not 
atlon  of  Wasliinntdii 


MKMOliAMlA    OS'    rilE   I'Alll-'li'   llM/Jt()M>. 


109 


City!  The  most  moderate  pay  would  make  of  tliem  valuable  herders  of 
stock,  and  hunters.  The  ](asturet<  now  maintain  meat  u|ion  tlie  hoof,  or 
liiilfalo,  Ut  tile  amount  of  many  millions.  A  Inun/ni/  ini/lidiis  of  tame 
cattle  will  niaintaiii  tliemselvcH  in  the  i)utl°alo  country,  fat  in  conditioii 
round  the  year.  Jin/  is  the  approjiriute  food  of  these  dry  and  lii^Ii 
altitudes. 

The  riisfini  lialf  of  this  route,  from  Baltimore  to  Kan.sas,  traverses  very 
centrally  the  densest  ]io|iulation,  the  lar;;-est  |iroduction  and  consumption, 
and  consei|uently  tlie  line  of  <;reatcst  travel  and  coinmerci!.  The  same 
will  lie  the  case  with  the  irixtirii  Inilf  as  soon  as  the  Imr/csi/nr  of"'  Indian 
occupation"  is  hruslied  out  of  the  way.  The  immense  mass  of  pioneers 
in  all  the  elder  States  chafes  to  issue  out  and  cover  this  delij^'htful  cimu- 
try  with  rej)iil)lics. 

The  country  emhraciiiLr  tin-  sources  of  the  Sweetwater,  Colorado,  and 
Snake  Jlivers  is  a  j;oId  country,  eiiuallin^  California  or  Hrazil,  hut  iiiac- 
eessihle  to  ocean  navij:ation.  The  climate  does  not,  (M(iial!y  as  in  the.sc 
latter  countrii's,  pulverize  and  disiiitejirate  ihe  rock.  The  <£'M  is  in  a 
matri.x  of  (jiiartz.  The  hard  jporphyry  and  lava  will  descend  in  iniiiien.se 
(piantities,  anil  thus  economize  the  paviiij;  of  the  cities  of  the  Valley  of 
the  Mi.ssissippi. 

One  natural  production  of  Ihe  eastern  edj,'e  of  the  Taiii.e  Lands  will 
soon  re]>ay  the  cost  of  the  construction  of  this  road.     This  is  SAl/r. 

There  are  mountains  near  the  sources  of  Snake  Jliver,  composed  of 
stratified  nias.ses  of  rmh-stilt — just  as  other  river  bluffs  arc  of  limestone. 
This,  ipiarried  with  liirht  tools,  and  <rrouiid  to  jiowder,  as  grain  is  re- 
duced to  flour,  is  tlui  pure  alum  salt  of  commerce.  J')very  living  soul  of 
America  u.si's  salt  thrice  per  day.  Every  animal  r(.'(|uires  it  as  frei|ueiitly. 
Every  ounce  of  jtrovisions  is  preserved  with  it.  It  is  mixed  with  hay, 
and  preserves  timber.  It  is  u.sed  in  the  manufactures  and  tine  art«. 
IJrought  licnce  down  to  tlu;  focal  jioint  of  navigation  in  .Missouri,  this 
State  will  become  liie  distributing  point  of  this  most  valuable,  greatest, 
and  most  indispensable  article  of  commerce. 

By  the  last  national  census,  the  annual  jiroduction  of  our  country 
reaches  the  value  of  thnr  t/ioiisinn/  iin'/Zioiin  of  dollars.  Seventy-five  jier 
cent,  of  this  is/ooif,  which  finds  no  market  among  the  comparatively  lim- 
ited jiopulation  of  Europe,  1^(1'), (100,(1(10,  v.-ho  feed  themselves. 

Around  the  Pncljic,  in  front  of  Astoria,  are  745,000,000  of  hungry 
Ahiath's  and  Poli/insidiis,  who  have  groceries,  clothing,  spices,  and  por- 
celain, to  exchange  for  meat  and  grain. 

But  the  icfsfvrn  half  of  this  road  departs  from  the  bank  of  the  Mis- 
souri, to  which  :dl    America  has  ac os  at  this  hour  by  the  navigable 


I  ! 


u 


i'.i 


200 


Ari'h\\/)/x. 


rivers;  and  rmiii  Aj^toria  tlicsi-  inilliniis  of  coiiMiiiicrs  iiiay  Ix^  niiclu'J 
directly,  over  a  tniii((iiil  oifaii  ami  iiiidcr  a  /i  nijn  mti  aliiiiis|ilu'ri';  tlie 
e(|uatnrial  Iieat.s  are  diily  eiicounteretl  la^t  and  at  the  jilacc  ul'  tinai  de- 
livery. 

No  doubt,  in  the  ]io]iulous,  central,  f'ood-jirotlucinf;  States  of  lnwa,  Mis- 
siiiiri,  .Vrkan.sas,  and  Illinois,  /Imr  Innidinl  iiilllinns  of  dollars'  wurlli  ul' 
produce  of  industry  tidl  annually  to  find  a  market,  and  the  jirotit  tlicreon 
jierislies,  for  want  of  this  road  art  from  the  centre  to  the  /("////western 
coast  ! 

IJnl  it  is  inijiortant  that  the  jii'i/i/c  receive  with  candor,  and  allow  due 
wcijilit  to,  the  overwhelminjj,-  and  conclusive  jiroofs  in  fuvor  of  this  mute 
of  the  water-^radi'S,  which  Nature,  all  recorded  human  ex|ierience.  and  tla; 
solid  sfiiiicc  of  civil  enjiineerinj:',  cons|iire  to  sulmiit  to  their  judj:ineiit. 
i\'</////v  is  the  sujirenie  engineer ;  or/  is  prosperous  oidy  whilst  adhering 
to  her  teachinjis. 

We  have  seen  in  what  a  simple  and  suhlini"  harmony  the  InrisHih  I'nrco 
of  Nature  eli'Vates  vapors  from  the  sea.  forms  tlu'Ui  int  '  clou<l  halloons  in 
the  upi  cr  atmosphere,  an(W/////.>iy////7.s  them  on  currents  oi'  air  over  the 
continents;  how  these  become  condensed  and  distil  themselves  over  the 
face  of  the  land  in  the  form  of  irriuatinjj;  rains. 

This  water  havinji'  jierfornu'd  its  renovating  duty,  by  tilteiin.^'  throuiih 
the  surface  soil,  be<:'ins  a^ain  to  collect :  first  in  remote  hollows  and  un- 
dulations:  thewi  unite  into  rivulets  :  rivulets  into  larj!,er  streams:  streams 
into  rivers :  rivers  into  the  great  I're.sh-water  //v/z/yZ/.s,  which  return  this 
drainajie  from  the  land,  to  mix  with  the  salt  oi' the  ocean,  to  be  renovated 
and  perlitrm  a<rain  their  jjart  in  the  drriihitlnn  of  nature. 

Now,  the  use  of  jtithlic  irorhx  to  human  society  is  the  same  as  are  her 
works  to  Nature:  to  bring /'// and  distribute  clothing!;  and  groceries;  to 
collect  and  carry  nut  surplus  food  and  jtroductions  of  every  variety. 

In  the  transferring  to  and  fro  of  the  waters  of  the  univer.se,  Nature 
accom]>lishes  a.s  much  heavy  transportation  in  a  few  hours  as  will  suffice 
the  social  wants  of  Auuu-ica  for  a  century.  This,  then,  is  all  that  is  .sv////(/^ 
ill  evil  engineering,  and  comprehends  all  tlie  good  that  it  ////.s  and  caii 
do  for  human  society: — to  select  those  uyifi-r-qrftdcs  whew,  in  further 
imitation  of  Nature,  humar  energy  may  smooth  tlie  asperities  and  econom- 
ically adajit  to  use  tlie  curves  and  grades  witli  which  slie  lias  everywhere 
furnished  the  face  of  the  land. 

Thus,  then,  to  recapitulate  and  sum  up  the  array  of  facts  wliich  con- 
centrate themselves  to  decide  the  locnfian  of  the  Continkntal  IIail- 
WAY.  Xdtiiri'  and  all  sound  human  experience  unite  to  select  tlu;  imtcr- 
griide  of  the  Platte  and  Snake  Kivers,  and  against  any  departure  from  i*. 


MKM(>ll.\Sh.\    nS    Tin:    r.MIFlc    ItMI.UoMi. 


.'01 


■rs  may  I.,,  iv.iclu'il 
'''  iiliii(isj,li,.|v:  tlic 
II'   pliicc  of  liiiiil  il,^ 

states  ol"  l,,\va,  Mis- 
il'  ilnllais"  wmtli  lit' 
llic  jniifit  ill,. I- 

tllC   /*'/;7//\\,  .,1,.||| 

iiliir,  ami  alluw  ilim 

aviir  (iC  tliis  iiiiiti' 

<'.\|u'i'it'ni-c,  ami  tlic 

ti)  tlirii'  jiiiluiiicnt. 

Illy  wliilsl   adliciiiig 

_V  tllC    I'lirisilili     riirc(; 

t"  fldiid  lialldiitis  ill 
iifs  ol'  air  (ivcr  tlic 
lieuiselvt'S  over  tlio 

y  fiitcriiif''  tlir(iiif:h 
iifo  Jiolliiws  ami  1111- 
L'l"  .sti'oaiii.s  :  «( reams 
,  whiih  rcfiirii  this 
'an,  to  \tv  rciHivatcd 
ire. 
lie  samci  as  are  licr 

and  frrofcrii's ;  to 
very  variety, 
le  universe.  Xatiire 
iur.s  as  will  suffice 
is  all  that  is  >^niiii,l 
lat  it  Ikix  and  cun 

wliere,  in  i'lirtlier 
jrities  and  eediiom- 
\\c  lias  everywhere 

f  faets  wliieli  con- 

S'TI.NK.NTAI,    li.VIL- 

I)  seleet  tlus  im/cr- 
dejiarture  from  i*. 


Tl'tliis  route  defleets  at  all  I'l'om  aji  exact  n  nlni/i/i/.  it  is  to  the  suul/i.  and 
not  Inwards  the  north,  that  il  Iicai's.  Its  Iwo  halve,-,  d.'.ci'uim:  tVoni  the 
iinln.  ^ive  the  almitiM  lines  to  ihe  sea,  lhioiii:h  the  countiie>  and  |hi|iii- 
iations  when'  tiie  work  to  he  done  is  the  ;:i'eatest,  and  the  nece»iiy  lor 
it  iiio>l  iiniiiediate.  pressimr.  and  lasting;, 

(hiihalf  is  located  and  under  eiiiislruetioii.  Asa  lliruinili  road  it  is 
the  s/i'iifist  line  across  Nmlh  .\nierica.  must  conveniently  connectiiiu  .\sia 
and    I'll  lidl'K  //'/  '/"    jii  ijii  fiiii/  /iiii  iif  inii/  Irnri  I  n/'  nil  iimjifr.      'l"hoUi:h 


iiieandei'ini:  inii'nii/  imiiK^n.se  mountain  chains,  it  |iasset<  thei 
iiels  eiini|ilelely  iiiade  liy  nature. 


l.v  t 


un- 


Neil 


ler  snow  niu'  ram,  nor  ^reat   rivers,  enioarrass  either  ils  eiin>liue- 


tiun  or  i's  al'ter-u.<e :  the  climate  is  ]ii'e-eniinently  jirojiitious :   matciial  to 


construct  IS  coiiveiiien 


tly  at 


hand,  at   easv  intervals  on  the  rit^ht  and  lel't 


fuel  and  water  aliundaiit  forever.  The  inititfirnl  excellence  of  the  whoUi 
rciiioii,  comhined  with  a  dry  almos|ihere  and  liealth,  su|i|ilyiii,i:  meat-food 
and  ti'aiis|)ortation  indefinitely,  will  render  easy  the  imincdiale  iiiHiix  and 
residence  of  an  immense  ]io(iulation. 

The  vicinity  where  the  i;reat  Si<  rnt  Mailrr  is  ]ieneti'ated,  and  where 
J'wi  great  rivers  have  their  sources  together,  is  ]irodigiously  [irolilic  in  salt, 
hard  rock  lor  architecture  and  ]iavinu',  medicinal  hot  siiriiijis,  all  the 
jirccious  metals  and  jewels,  furs,  lumlier,  and  the  hides  of  animals. 

If  1  have  delineated  with  any  success,  and  exiilaiiu'd  correctly  the  fea- 
tures (if  Sittiirf.  in  gcojii'aiihy,  climate,  and  topoiiraiihy,  there  remains  to 
ex-miiu^  the  liearinj;'  uiion  this  Viork  of  the  comhined  hostili'  influence  of 


(///  commerce  allied  with  iiolidi 


Why  tl 


us  jireat  central  route,  suc- 


cessfully ojicned  in  the  time  of  ,Jetl('i'soii  and  hy  the  eiieruy  of  Aslor,  was 
attacked,  stoji]ied,  and  finally  xhiit  ii/>,  under  President  .Monroe,  Ami 
why  ils  reojieiiing  is  still  hamjiered  and  iiostjioned  by  the  sauu!  remorse- 
less and  unrelentinu;  eiiemie.s. 


J  t 


■VI. 


THE    HEMP-GROWING    REGIOX. 

Thkuk  i.s  a  rcn-ion  of  Mi.ssonn'  and  Kini.san  oi'  rapidly  rising  fame  and 
importance,  gaining  f(jr  it.seif  a  State  and  a  national  repntation,  wliieh  we 
will  define  as  the  ''  licgioii  of  the  Hemp  Cultured  Specially  favored  by 
nature  in  its  geographical  locality,  climate,  navigation,  and  superlative  fer- 
tility, this  region  has  become  the  seat  of  a  hemp  culture  which  has  a 
stiong,  organized,  and  national  foundation. 

The  hemp  culture  receives  special  attention  in  twenty  counties  of  West- 
ern Missouri,  bisected  by  the  Missouri  lliver,  and  all  adjacent  to  its  t^vo 
shores.  '^1  jy  form  a  belt  t)f  land  east  and  west,  enclosed  between  die 
38th  and  40f h  degrees  of  latitude. 

Here  is  the  production  of  these  counties  in  hemp,  in  order  as  they  lie 
along  the  river — census  of  1850  : 


JackboD, 

Cole, 

riatte, 

Howard, 

LKt'nyt'tte, 

Cass, 

Clay, 

liiioiie. 

Siiliuc, 

Johnson, 

Ray, 

Clinton, 

Cooper, 

Pettis, 

Carroll, 

Kandolph, 

Monitenu, 

Miller, 

Chariton, 

liui'hanan 

The  iiggregatc  of  annual  production  being  14,173  tons,  or  28,340,000 
pounds. 

Since  1850,  the  hemp  culture  has  increa.sed  in  vigor,  both  in  the  hmd 
assigned  to  its  culture  and  in  the  application  of  machineiT  to  i'.o  produc- 
tion and  manufacture.  The  production  of  that  year,  within  the  aliove 
region,  was  28,346,000  pounds,  estimtiting  the  ton  at  2('U0  pounds;  and 
that  of  the  whole  State  10,110  tons,  or  32,238,000  pounds. 

The  cour.«e  of  the  Missouri  Kiver  through  this  region  of  superlative 
fertility  may  be  compared  to  the  Nile  flowing  through  Lower  Egypt  to  the 
Mcditorraneiin.  It  is  in  the  ability  of  an  abundant  and  bountedus  pro- 
duction that  this  comparison  holds,  but  not  in  temperature,  climate,  or 
physical  features. 

In  Egypt,  the  arable  and  inhabitable  district  is  limited  to  the  ravine  of 
the  Nile,  which  is  overflowed  and  irrigated  by  its  waters  ;  beyond  this  the 
202 


primeval  de 

characterize 

fertilizing  \ 

ever-flowinj 

which  havt 

But,  on 

ravine  of  t 

gated  cola 

This  uiidu 

basins  of  t 

So  muc 

exquisite  i 

the  sea  nu 


Thecu 

to  south. 

The  M 

lliver  in 

Missouri 

length. 

lines  of 

South  31 

They 

the  Km 

which  tl 

of  Mex 

This 

thronge 

Americ 

Union. 

nhich 

progres 

habitat 

It  is 

that  111 


THE  lIEMr-GKOWISG  REGIOS. 


203 


1,  ill  order  as  they  lie 


i  tons,  or  28,340,000 


primeval  desert  reigns  everywhere  supreme.  With  us,  the  same  fertility 
characterizes  the  borders  of  the  stream,  whieh  has  the  same  abundauue  uf 
fertilizing  waters,  the  same  splendid  navigation,  the  same  solemnity  in  it^ 
ever-flowing  channel,  and  the  same  redundancy  of  benignant  attributes 
which  have  deified  the  Nile. 

But,  on  every  side,  from  the  gently  elevated  crest  that  bounds  the 
ravine  of  the  Mi.ssouri,  expands,  with  a  radius  of  1000  miles,  that  varie- 
gated culcurcotis  plain,  which  we  define  as  the  '^  Basin  of  the  MinsisKijypi." 
This  undulating  plain  has  an  area  erjual  in  capacity  to  all  the  other  river 
basins  of  tlie  world,  and  conibines  all  their  varieties. 

So  much  does  the  mind  revert  to  the  ocean  to  explain  by  comparison  its 
exquisite  romantic  beauty,  at  once  immense  and  regular,  that  this  hymu  to 
the  sea  may  with  propriety  describe  it : 

"  Thou  glorious  mirror,  where  the  Almighty's  form 
Glasses  itself  in  tempests;  in  all  time, 
Calm  or  convulsed — iu  breeze,  or  gale,  or  storm, 

Dark  heaving;-  -Ijounilless,  endless,  and  sublime — 
The  image  oi"  eternity — -the  throne 
Of  the  Invisible —     .     .     .     each  zone 
Obeys  thee;  thou  goest  forth,  dread,  fathomless,  alone  I" 

The  curreia  course  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi  Rivers  is  from  north 
to  south.     The  latter  is  so  tliroughout  its  whole  length. 

The  Missuuri,  after  a  southern  cour.se  of  3000  miles,  receives  the  Kansas 
River  in  latitude  39',  turns  abruptly  to  the  eauf,  penetrates  Uie  State  of 
Missouri,  and  bisects  it  from  west  to  cast,  with  a  channel  -it  0  miles  iu 
length.  Into  the  eastern  moutli  of  this  chainiel,  all  the  grei-t  natural 
lines  of  travel  coming  from  the  Atlantic  by  the  St.  Lawrence,  Ohio,  and 
South  Mississippi  Rivers,  concentrate  as  rays  to  a  focal  point. 

They  iire  altogether  carried  forward  to  the  central  west  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Kansas,  where  the  unbroken  prairie  formation  meets  the  river,  and  to 
which  the  radiant  land  routes  over  their  expanse,  coming  from  tlie  (iulf 
of  Mexico  and  tlie  Pacific  Ocean,  similarly  conccntrato. 

This  channel  is  now,  and  is  destined  prospectively  to  remain,  the  most 
thronged  and  wonderful  in  the  world.  It  is  central,  east  and  nest,  to  the 
Americi'u  Continent,  to  the  Basin  of  the  ML-^sissippi,  and  to  th<>  American 
Union.  It  lies  along  tlie  axis  of  that  isatliernial  tern)  rate  zane,  within 
which  is  the  zoJi(tc  of  nations,  and  is  also  the  a.els  of  the  poi)ulation, 
jirogress,  travel,  production,  consumption,  commerce,  transj}ortatii)n,  and 
liabitation  of  the  human  race. 

It  is  the  highway  from  Western  l-lurope  to  Oriental  .\si:!.  It  is  under 
that  line  of /(f^V(/f?(;  where  all  things  northern  and  southern  meet  and  blend 


204 


A  PPESDIX. 


I'^Wf 


fl 


togetluT — where  tlie  day  and  iiifilit.  the  seasons  of  tlie  year,  lahor.  the 
growth  of  nature,  and  all  the  elenicMts  of  human  society  and  of  the  \ cue- 
table  and  animal  worl'l,  liave  the  widest  range,  the  greatest  variety,  and 
the  highest  development. 

Having  a  double  shore,  this  '-hannel  has  800  miles  of  eoast.  Tt  lias 
tlie  familiar  accommodation  imu  safety  of  a  canal,  a  ra'iriad,  or  a  strcrl. 

Its  de]ith  of  water  and  ea>iaeity  for  toninieree  will  receivi-  and  cany 
forward  the  freiglitage  of  al!  the  oceans  and  all  the  continents.  Similar 
ciiannels  have  been  known  and  used  in  both  ancient  and  modern  times — 
such  are  the  Lower  Nile,  the  IJosjihorus.  and  J)ar<lanelles,  the  Strait  of 
Hercules,  the  English  Channel,  the  Baltic's  mouth,  the  Hudson  from  New 
York  to  Albany — onl}'  this  has  greater  length,  divides  more  fertile  shores, 
and  connects  more  numerous  hosts  of  nations. 

Such  is  the  Jfcmj)  Itryloii.  It  has  an  altitude  1000  feet  above  the  si'a. 
a  salubrity  e(|ual  to  the  Table  Lamls,  a  fertility  superior  to  the  Delta  of 
Louisiana,  an  unlimited  area,  a  navigation  better  than  the  .sea,  a  climate 
exactly  congeniid  to  tlic  white  man,  a  rural  beauty  forever  graceful,  fresh, 
and  fascinating 

It  is,  on  a  va.stly  magnified  scale,  the  counterpart  of  that  delicious  and 
cla.ssic  Italy,  traversed  by  the  Po,  dotted  with  cities,  Venice,  A'erona, 
Mantua,  Milan,  of  which  SllAKSl'EAKE  lias  written,  ami  where  ViittiiL 
ami  Tasso  sung. 

If  an  eiri{)se  be  described  extending  from  the  Osage  mouth  to  Fort 
Kiley,  ^  >me  500  miles,  an<l  in  breadth  !i<HI,  it  will  contain  that  distiict  of 
fat,  lustrous  soil,  exub(>rant  vegetation,  graceful  beauty,  an<l  abundant 
streams,  where  Nature  has  bomitifuUy  blended  all  her  choicest  gifts  to 
locate  the  nirol  qiu'iitessi'iice  of  America  and  of  the  wo.ld  ! 

Stimulated  by  the  inspiring  splendor  of  their  natural  position,  the 
vigorous  pojiulation  of  this  region  have  ])ursmMl  agriculture,  commerce, 
and  manufactures  with  an  ambition  and  success  which  indicate  a  growing 
empire  in  nothing  unworthy  of  their  prospective  de.stiny. 

Every  department  of  production  and  industry  has  been  tried,  and  all 
thrive.  Hemp,  tobacco,  flax,  the  grajie  and  wiiu;,  silk,  stigar,  the  cereals 
and  grasses ;  cattle  of  the  finest  breeds ;  agricultural  nnichinery,  flowers, 
steam,  and  niining.  Society  exalts  it,s  tone  by  a  taste  for  religious  edifices 
and  elo<|uenc(! ;  education  receives  great  and  universal  care;  mu>ic  and  re- 
finement are  zealously  oiltivated. 

Apart  from  these  fascinating  gifts  i."  Nature  and  the  promise  which 
germinates  lieneath  their  warmth,  a  jinsfii/r  entwines  it.self  with  and  illu- 
minates the  history  of  this  region.  This  runs  back  to  the  golden  time  of 
thti  jiii/n'iirc/iitl  I'oiuiders  of  our  cuiitiiuiifiif  empire;  it  stretches  over  the 


dark  chasn 

nous  Auroi 

of  our  null 

We   ha\ 

l{(i(iKUS    (. 

Lot  IS  X\ 

who  li'd  oi 

twilight  o 

they  have 

To  und 

select  out 

which  sta 

niarkable 

This  s\ 

very  anci( 

IllSTOl 

struggles. 

and  attaii 

defined  t( 

Histor 

their  risj 

depart  etl. 

the  nortl; 

ZODIAC  t 

The  a 

latitude, 

climates 

the  Pers 

the  /''/> 

in  the  i 

It  is  hei 

imist  ne 

This 

the  glol 

extendi 

edge  t( 

Europi 

It  is 

the  lui 

front  in 

intcrco 


Tin:  iiEMP-anowi.Mi  iiKdioy. 


205 


tJic  year,  lalmr.  the 
•ictj  and  of  fl,,,  vcn^. 
greatest  variety,  niid 

L's  of  coast.      Tt  li;,s 
a'Ir)ail,  or  a  strrcl. 

I'fccivi'  and  cnnv 
•""tiiicnts.     Similar 

nd  modern  times 

iH'lli's,  the  Strait  of 
Hudson  i'rom  Xew 
s  more  fertile  sliores, 

••  firt  above  tlie  sea. 
"or  to  tile  ]),.Ita  of 
•1  tlio  sea,  a  climate 
i-ovor  graceful,  fresh, 

f  that  delicious  and 
iof^,  Venice,  ^'erona, 
,  and  where  Vii{(iir, 

'age  mouth  to  Fort 
tain  that  district  of 
'»ty,  and  aliundant 
icr  clioicest  gifts  to 
p.ld  ! 

itural   position,  the 
ii-ulture,  commerce, 
indicate  a  growing 
'J- 

Ijocii  tried,  and  all 
,  «»gar,  the  cereals 
machinery,  flowers, 
iir  religions  edifices 
•are;  music  and  re- 

the  promise  which 
f.«<'H'with  and  illu- 
lu'  golden  time  of 
stretches  over  the 


dark  chasm  of  sealxiard  monarchy,  and  lias  its  fountain  in  the  lumi- 
nous Aurora  and  among  the  immortal  patriots  who  limned  out  the  jirotile 
of  our  finitiiKiital  vn\\n\\',  and  inaugurated  the  march  of  our  destinies. 

We  liave  here  among  us  the  graves  of  D.VNIKL  15(M)NK.  (iKhrue 
]{(MiKi{s  Ci.AUKK,  li.vrLKDK,  and  the  names  of  .loiiN  .lAtoH  AsTttll, 
]i(»lis  XVI.  of  France,  ].i.\SAI,I,K.  and  Dk  Soto,  great  and  intrepid  men 
who  li'd  or  befriended  tlii'  iiioiieers.  those  stars  which  shone  in  the  first 
twilight  of  em]iire.  To  Jkkkkusox  and  Jackson  wc  were  known,  and 
they  have  been  known  to  us  as  \mY frlinilx. 

To  unth-rstand  this  pnsfiijf  and  its  strength,  it  is  necessary  briefly  to 
select  out  and  .set  apart  to  themselves  a  few  facts  in  the  history  of  progre.s.s, 
which  stand  along  its  path,  and,  like  pyramids  in  the  solitude,  fix  its  re- 
markable epochs. 

This  sy.stem  of  civili/ed  .society,  of  which  we  Americans  form  a  part,  is 
very  ancient,  and  is  in/n  rifid. 

IIlsToilV  is  the  journal  of  its  geographical  pri>gress.  its  vici.ssitudes,  its 
struggles,  and  its  energies.  Where  society  has  a.ssuiiuMl  its  largest  form 
and  attained  tlie  higliest  level  of  civilization  and  longest  endurance,  it  is 
defined  to  be  an  ciii^iirr. 

Hi.story  chiefly  occupies  itself  with  the  biography  of  tlie.se  empires, 
their  rise,  culmination,  and  decadence.  They  have  appeared,  lived,  and 
departed,  like  generations  of  men.  They  lie  along  a  .serpentine  zone  of 
the  north  hemisphere  of  the  globe,  within  mt  lnothfrmdl  halt,  and  form  a 
ZODIAC  thirty-five  degrees  in  width. 

The  axis  of  this  zodiac  alternates  abovi'  and  below  the  4()lh  degree  of 
latitude,  as  the  neighborhood  or  remoteness  of  the  oceans  modifies  the 
climates  of  the  continents.  These  empires  are  the  (.'hiiu'.se.  the  Indian, 
the  Persian,  tlie  (irecian,  the  Ifoman,  the  S|iani.<h,  the  Briti.sh,  and,  last, 
the  /'ifiiifih'iiiii  Kiiij>iii'  of  North  America.  These  are  the  essential  tines 
in  the  regular  ordi'r  of  time  and  uiion  the  hereditary  line  of  progre.ss. 
It  is  here  that  the  mass  of  land  is  the  greatest,  and  where  the  continents 
i"ost  nearl}'  ajiproach  one  another. 

This  ZODIAC  of  nations  contains  iiinc-ldit/is  of  the  white  jiopulatiou  of 
the  globe,  and  all  its  civilization.  The  territory  of  the  American  iieo]ile, 
extending  across  this  continent,  exactly  fills  this  i.sothermal  zone  from 
edge  to  edge,  occupying  the  whole  connecting  space  between  Western 
Europe  and  (Jn'rufaf  Asia. 

It  is  on  tlie.^e  two  fronts  of  the  old  continents  that  the  two  halves  of 
the  humau  race  are  .separately  congregated,  both  fronting  America  and 
fronting  one  anotlier.  face  to  face,  across  America.  The  straight  line  of 
intcreourse  between  them,  only  1((,()00  miles  in  length,  pursues  the  axis 


'Ij^- 


206 


APPEXTJrX. 


of  the  isotliorniiil  zone,  out  of  wliieh  it  never  deflects  either  into  the  torrid 
heats  or  tht;  frozen  north. 

Jlrrr.  thi'ii.  is  the  tenacious,  the  divine  instinct  of  jiroirross  and  liherty, 
whicli  fired  the  .«oul  of  ConMHLS,  of  WAsmxfiTox.  of  Jkkfeuson.  and 
of  Jackson.  In  this  faith  they  lived;  this  faith  they  vindicated  and 
never  betrayed  ;  and  in  this  faith  they  died,  to  inherit  among  posterity  a 
supreme,  untainted  immortality. 

T/iix  fin'fli  forms  the  inspiration  of  the  Declaration  of  177(».  animated 
the  patriarchal  generation,  and  was  renewed  and  codified  in  the  Constitu- 
tion of '87.  It  .selected  Jefferson  in  1798,  and  Jackson*  in  1828.  Its 
eagles  are  now  erected  among  the  pioneers  out  in  the  wilderness,  in  Kan- 
sas, in  Utah,  in  California,  and  in  Oregon.  Upon  them  are  i'ml)o>si'd  the 
ancient  rights  of  man,  the  continental  union,  the  continental  railroad,  the 
continental  cause ! 

During  the  administration  of  Jeffersox,  central  ertmsion,  pursuing 
the  isothermal  axis  through  the  continent,  was  prosecuted  with  great  vigor 
as  the  favorite  policy  of  the  government.  Lewis  and  Clarke  recon- 
noitred and  made  known  the  character  of  the  rivers,  the  mountains,  and 
the  connections  of  the  Basins  of  the  jMissi.-isippi  and  Cohnnbia  by  direct 
passes.  John  Jacor  Astor  planted  trading  colonies  and  paths  through 
the  wilderness,  and  upon  the  bank  of  the  othei'  sea  opposite  to  China. 

The  rapid  creation  of  the  States  of  Ohio,  Kentucky,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
and  ^Ii.s,souri,  carried  forward  the  Union  in  a  salient  colunui,  embracing 
the  water-line  of  the  great  rivers  and  reaching  here  to  the  r/ror/raphiral 
centre  in  1820  !  Up  to  that  date  the  Jlanlcs  had  remained  stationary  in 
New  York  and  Georgia. 

The  design  then  was  to  go  through  with  the  parallelogram  of  central 
States  from  sea  to  sea,  and  from  this  base  to  advance  outward,  planting 
States  simultaneously  towards  the  south  and  towards  the  north.  This 
policy  was  criitpled  during  the  time  of  Mr.  Madison  by  the  vicissitudes 
t)f  foreign  war.  It  was  abandoned  and  reversed  by  Messrs.  ^Ionroe  and 
Adams. 

Ill  their  time  grew  up  the  political  divisions  of  North  and  South,  and 
a  maritime  policy  inaugurated  itself  Since  that  date,  central  progress  has 
abruptly  stopped,  and  great  activity  upon  the  flanks  has  brought  them  up 
to  an  even  front  in  Totca,  and  a  greatly  advanced  position  in  Texas. 

The  central  force  has,  howexcY,  j'umjwd  the  continent  straight  to  the 
front,  occupied  the  sea-coasts  of  Oregon  and  California,  and  founded  the 
new  maritime  power  upon  the  Pacific  and  opposite  to  Asia. 

Since  the  selection  of  the  site  of  the  city  of  Independence,  in  1824,  to 
1854,  a  chasm  in  time  of  thirty  years,  central  extension  had  rested  as 


stagnant  as 
and  perpetu 
tribes  and  f 
tending  froi 
prairie  foun 
Hence  is 
formed  of  a 
and  surroui 
Such  are 
legislates  t 
Mis.souri  ai 
The  anti 
out  its  hig 
on  the  one 
power  to  h 
greatness  t 
In  the  J 
had  a  woi 
and  has  pi 
spots.     T 
San  Frani 
tions  by  st 
The  fn 
of  the  M 
unrivallet 
Region. 

This  3 

^lissouri 

beetles  o 

tar  at  th^ 

It  cov 

the  Stati 

cago  anc 

ing  the 

to  New 

The 

little  fr( 

passing 

cisco,  I 

to  all  t 

Her 


■Jj^ 


I  cither  into  the  torrid 

']»ro.uross  fiiRl  lil.crty, 
\.  of  JkKFEUSOX.  iiiid 
they  vindicated  nnd 
p'it  among  posterity  a 

jii  of  1770,  animated 
[ified  in  the  Constitu- 
^OKso.v  in  \^2A.  It.^ 
k  wildenie.ss,  in  Kan- 
K'm  are  end)o,ssed  the 
fi'iKiKal  raih-nad,  the 

'  ''■rf'im'oii,  pursuing 
uted  with  great  vigor 
1111(1  Cl.ARKK  recon- 
',  the  mountains,  and 
Columbia  by  direct 
!S  and  paths  tlirough 
ppo.site  to  China.  " 
k.y,  Indiana,  Illinois, 
t  column,  embracing 
to  the  r/roffnip/iicil 
iiiained  stationary  in 

Hologram  of  central 
e  outward,  ])lantin," 
s  the  north.  This 
f  by  the  vieis.-itudes 
lessrs.  3roxH(iE  and 

rth  and  South,  and 

y/ifriif  progress  has 

s  brought  them  up 

on  in   'jy.cas. 

'lit  straight  to  the 

1-  ■•Hid  founded  the 

Vsia. 

donee,  in  1824,  to 

I'oit  had  rested  as 


r//i'  HEMP-nnowixG  reoiox. 


207 


stagnant  as  though  our  great  river  had  been  frozen  at  tliis  point  into  solid 
and  perpetual  ice.  It  had  been  stopjied  by  an  artificial  cimhni  of  Indian 
tribes  and  federal  law  as  effectually  as  by  a  continuous  wall  of  brass  ex- 
tending from  Loui  iana  to  tho41Hh  degree,  and  rising  in  altitude  from  the 
prairie  foundation  to  the  clouds. 

Hence  is  .seen  the  uni((ue  and  novel  sight  of  a  great  continvutid rmplvr^ 
formed  of  a  circular  shell  of  States  traced  round  the  circuniferent  seaboard, 
and  surrounding  a  hollow  and  vacant  disk  of  desert  coniwwnt. 

Such  are  at  present  the  //<eore/ic«/ principles  upon  which  maritime  "^oWcy 
legislates  for  the  great  region  of  our  country  connecting  the  StaiL's  of 
Mis,souri  and  California  straight  across. 

The  antagonistic  struggle  is  between  the  instinct  of  progress  plowing 
out  its  highway  through  the  continent,  along  the  isothermal  axis  by  land, 
on  the  one  hand,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  the  external  shell  of  maritime 
power  to  hold  the  continent  in  a  maritime  Jioop,  and  subject  its  industrial 
greatness  to  an  arrogant  sea-pulieij. 

In  the  great  city  of  New  York  the  active  instinct  of  progress  has  always 
had  a  working  Vnality.  Like  Home,  she  has  pursued  an  elastic  policy, 
and  has  planted  her  commercial  colonies  at  the  right  time,  and  in  the  right 
spots.  These  colonies,  of  the  first  cla.ss,  are  New  Orleans,  Chicago,  and 
San  Francisco.  With  all  of  these  she  maintains  or  needs  direct  connec- 
tions by  steamers,  railroads,  and  telegraphs,  as  also  with  Europe  in  the  rear. 

The  ti'ue  is  rife  for  another  selection,  Avhith  offers  itself  in  the  centre 
of  the  Mississippi  IJasiti !  A  key-point  of  centraiity  and  radiance,  and  of 
unrivalled  excellence.  This  is  Kansas  City,  the  metropolis  of  the  Hemp 
Region. 

This  young  and  vigorous  city,  crowning  the  southern  bank  of  the 
Missouri  River  at  the  point  of  the  angle  where  it  deflects  to  the  east, 
beetles  over  the  avenues  to  the  prairies  of  the  south  and  west,  like  Gibral- 
tar at  the  Strait  of  Hercules. 

It  covers  the  rear  of  St.  Louis,  and  confines  her  to  the  narrow  field  of  * 
the  State  of  Arkansas.     By  the  thrmigh  railroad,  coming  by  way  of  Chi- 
cago and  Keokuk,  crossing  the  Missouri  River  at  Biunswick,  and  ascend- 
ing the  south  bank,  an  air-line  road  exists  of  only  fifty  hours'  time  hence 
to  New  York  City. 

The  river  line  of  the  Missouri,  Illinois,  and  St.  Lawrence  deflects  but 
little  from  an  equal  straightness  and  a  similar  distance  in  miles.  Railroads 
passing  onwards  to  Galveston  into  Texas  and  New  >Iexico,  to  San  Fran- 
cisco, Utah,  and  Astoria,  will  be  the  shortest  lines  from  New  York  City 
to  all  these  extremities  and  various  regions  of  our  continent. 

Here  will  be  found  the  shortest  diagonal  line  wherewith  to  bisect  the 


'w\ 


208 


APPENDIX. 


y% 


protluctivo  territory  and  pdpulittion  of  the  rnioii  t(i\*iir(ls  the  xniifjiirr^i^ 
thr(iuji;li  tile  firuin,  hemp,  and  j)a.storal  rej^ioiis,  to  tlie  suj-ar  of  'JV'Xjis  nnj 
tlie  f;iild  and  silver  of  Mexieo. 

It  is  shitrter  to  (ralvestoii  than  any  roiit(!  traversinj:'  the  nKiri/iim  At- 
lantic States  and  heiidinjr  with  the  sea-eoast.  It  traverses  a  line  of  the 
greatest  variety  of  production  and  largest  distrilmtion  of  groceries,  dry 
goods,  and  manufactured  metals. 

This  /iriii/)  rri/iiiii  is  not  more  celehrated  for  hemp  than  it  is  lor  tuli.Kco, 
grain,  hlooded  cattle,  and  wool ;  only  this  former  production  is  not  shared 
with  surrounding  regions,  where  the  latter  engross  exclusive  attcnticm. 
The  popidation  of  the  liiDip  iryion,  in  1850,  was  202,413;  the  assosej 
property  Sl05.44;t.(jr)5. 

Here,  then,  i.s  an  immense  and  solid  foundation  wherefrom  to  grasp 
•and  control  the  exjianding  developments  //(  front,  con.si'ipient  ui)on  the 
ohliteratioM  oi"  the  Indian  harrier,  and  the  bursting  forth  of  the  pent-up 
flood  of  a  iitrnl  pni'/nss.  oiif  over  the  prairies  which  undulate  to  Texas, 
^lexico.  and  tiii!  Moinifdins.  The  front  wave  of  this  flood-tide  is  already 
in  motion  ;  its  s]iray  s]M'iiikles  the  I'fdi'iin  almost  to  the  mountain  foot. 

The  achievements  of  the  coming  dvciidf  of  yeare  will  differ  from  its 
predecessor.  It  will  exhibit  a  greater  mass  of  energy,  concentrated  i". 
one  direction,  occupied  by  a  single  object,  and  moving  with  immen,se 
means  over  a  very  short  line,  which  is  perfectly  straight  and  open. 

Heretofore  the  active  force  of  ,  rrign-ss  has  been  operating  round  the 
rim  of  our  territory,  on  Lake  Superior,  in  California,  in  Texas,  in  Florida: 
in  detached  sfjuadrons  separated  from  the  base  of  (dd  society,  by  the  diam- 
eter of  the  continent,  or  keeping  up  its  communication  round  the  cir- 
cumference by  sen.  The  opening  (katde  btholds  a  concentric  ad\ancc, 
flooding  into  the  cenfrc  and  reducing  all  movements  to  the  shortest  radii ! 
Its  career  opens  with  a  general  force  of  50,000,000  of  population,  having 
gold  i\i  hand,  railroads,  steamers,  and  rivers  with  prairies  on  their  banks. 
The  difficulties  of  the  icUderness  are  overcome,  the  temptations  every  way 
increased,  the  means  of  motion  enormou.sly  accumulated. 

Such  is  the  prosperous  future  which  shines  over  the  central  nri^t,  and 
fills  the  atmosphere  to  the  remotest  horizon.  This  prospective  view  is 
not  too  sanguine,  it  is  not  exaggerated,  it  is  only  in  moderate  and  ap})ro- 
priate  proportion  to  the  materi'id  long  accumulating  and  now  b-^ginning 
to  stir  with  activity  through  its  whole  reanimated  bulk. 

Sound  health,  complete  preparation,  fresh  and  mature  vigor,  judgment, 
and  a  defined  and  finite  object,  all  blend  themselves  with  the  immense  and 
successful  movement  which  closes  in  to  occupy  the  centre  of  our  country, 
to  reunite  its  flanks,  and  to  adjust  its  true  slw^  geographical  balances  forever. 


•uanls  (lie  si,iif/,,rrsf 
V  suiiar  ui'  T.'Xm.s  ,„J 

iij:-  the  hKin'h'iiii  \\. 
•aviTw.s  a  Iiii(>  .i|'  tl„. 
ion  of  ;^T<)c('rics,  dpy 

laii  it  is  for  fdli.icw,^ 

uctidii  is  nut  .sliiuvd 

exclusive  atti'iitidii. 

'^,4i;i;   tlio  assessed 

wherefriiiii  to  i;ra,sp 
'>nse(jiu'iit  u|ioii   the 
t'urtli  of  the  iieiit-uj) 
1  undulate  to  Texas, 
<  flood-tide  is  already 
^10  niduntain  flxit. 
1  will  differ  from  its 
i-jry,  concentrated  i-. 
ovinj;  with  iuunense 
ght  and  open, 
operatino;  round  the 
in  Texas,  in  Fk.rida: 
society,  by  the  diani- 
iitiou  round  the  cir- 
conccntric  ad\anco. 
o  the  shortest  radii ! 
f  popuhttion,  liaving 
iries  on  their  banks. 
inptation.s  every  way 
ted. 

he  central  utk/,  and 
prospective  view  is 
iioderate  and  appro- 
and  now  b':'":inninff 
L 

re  vigor,  judirnicnt, 
;h  the  ininien.se  and 
ttre  of  our  country, 
:i(l  balances  forever. 


■VII. 
AN    ORATION. 

SPOKEN  BY  noX.  WII.T.I.VM  OTI.IMX,  To  Til K  OrK.<TS  OF  THK  FEXI.W  BUOTnER- 
HOOD,  AT  DKXVER,  COL0U.\DO,  JUl-Y  4,  M)S. 

Ladies  and  Gentle.men,  Fellow-citizens,  each  one  and  all  : — 
The  return  of  Independence  Day  brings  annually  together,  both  at  home 
and  in  foreign  lands,  the  unanimous  American  people. 

They  unite  to  express  and  to  renew  the  fire  of  devotion ;  to  burnish 
afresh  the  Iioly  flame  wliich  illuminated  our  natal  hour ;  that  hour  when 
our  sacred  country  was  born  to  a  mission  of  unparalleled  liberty,  virtue, 
happiness,  and  glory. 

We  everywhere  invoke  Heaven,  as  we  surround  the  innumerable  altars 
of  patriotism,  co  fortify  evtiy  heart  and  every  will  of  our  now  multitudi- 
nous people ;  to  tone  and  forever  in.spire  them  to  perpetuate  the  founda- 
tions, the  standard,  and  the  work  erected  by  the  patriarchal  fathers ;  to 
emulate  their  energetic  works  and  virtues,  plain  in  form,  intense  in  forti- 
tude, radiant  with  political  charity  and  exalted  wisdom. 

The  solemnity  of  this  day  instructs  us  to  look  abroad,  with  hearts  soft- 
ened by  a  great  love,  yet  stern  with  resolution,  over  our  vast  country 
now  encircled  by  the  seas. 

The  august  Congress  of  1776  is  seen,  filled  with  heroic  men,  the  choice 
of  an  heroic  people.  Wisdom,  resolution,  calmness,  unanimity,  sway  and 
moderate  their  deliberations  and  tlieir  acts. 

With  unfaltering  faith  and  self-reliance  in  the  rectitude  of  their  inten- 
tions and  their  cause,  they  pronounce  the  will  of  the  American  people  re- 
solved for  Liberty  and  for  Independence. 

In  condensed  sentences,  perfect  for  logic,  .simplicity,  truth,  and  eloquence, 
they  face  and  expel  from  the  American  continent  tyrants  and  oppression  ; 
they  summon  and  appeal  to  the  virtue  and  sympathy  of  mankind. 

Their  resolutions  and  their  acts,  free  from  doubt,  are  ecjually  daring, 
final,  and  complste. 

In  the  rancoroua  and  prolonged  v-'onflicts  of  war,  essential  to  meet  and 

14  20C 


210 


APPESinX. 


quell  the  implHccble  riige  and  avarice  of  power,  war^  seen  the  same  reso- 
lute will  a  like  impregnable  ondui  jiice,  an  equal  faith,  the  same  unfal- 
tering fi<l"lity. 

From  tliis  orJeal.  sublime  in  all  its  aets  and  features,  eamc  forth  a  rctreu- 
orated  pen,  .le.  Regenerated  !  Because  unanimously  born  to  liberty,  the 
menaces  and  blows  of  covetous  power  struck  to  dwarf  its  dimeiisioiis,  to 
blunt  its  freshness,  to  wring  subjugation  from  inflicted  tortures,  had  been 
understood,  resisted,  and  annihilated. 

To  LiBKUTY  WAS  APnET)  Tnpjivendence.  To  liberty  had  accrued  the 
supreme  power  of  self-discipline,  self-protection,  self-rule,  self-perpetuation  ! 

But  the  Congress  of  177(i,  having  its  origin  and  its  authority  from  the 
unanimous  will  and  power  of  the  people,  declared  itself  to  be  the  "  Con- 
tinental Congres,  of  the  American  people."  In  their  name  were  erected 
and  maintained  a  continental  army ;  a  continental  marine ;  a  continental 
currency  ;  a  continental  cau-^e. 

Animated  by  the  loftiest  sentiments,  unsullied  by  the  meretricious  taste 
for  power,  the  profoundly  wise  and  courageous  charity  which  declared  and 
established  the  independent  liberty  of  the  individual  man,  decreed  also 
that  the  geographical  area  of  the  continent  should  be  dedicated  and  sanc- 
tified to  the  exercise  of  his  freedom. 

Hence,  from  these  preliminary  triumphs,  in  harmony  with  them  and 
spontaneou.sly,  sprang  with  ease  the  Union  op  the  United  States  of 
Amehica. 

Liberty,  Independence,  Union — these  were  the  benignant  fruits  gath- 
ered and  perpetuated  by  the  American  Bevolution  for  the  American 
people,  and  for  the  example  of  the  human  race  forever. 

From  July  4,  1776,  to  the  second  election  of  Washin-ton,  fifteen  years 
in  time.,  that  stupendous  and  benignant  work  had  matured  itself  during 
the  maturity  of  a  single  generation. 

A  continent  cut  loose  and  secured  to  a  new  society !  A  new  soci  ty 
erected  on  fresh  ground,  novel  in  all  its  element",  even  in  tlie  seed  from 
which  the  plant  firsD  gei.:iinates  !  The  oracvilar  centre  of  political  faith 
and  power  rescued  from  the  huq;e  city  of  Lom'on  and  transported  beyond 
the  ocean  to  the  rural  shores  of  the  Potomac  1 

A  complete  and  radical  adjustment  in  the  geographical  foundations  of 
human  institutions  wa.s  consummated. 

Thought  and  speech  were  unchained,  and  the  elasticity  of  mind  disen- 
t^mgled  ;  the  daring  spirit  of  inquiry  set  free  from  restraint  ;  the  rights 
of  man,  in  practice,  proclaimed  and  perpetuated;  monijrchy  abolished; 
universal  citizttuship  and  self-government  made  perpetual ;  the  artificial 
barriers  erectei!  by  bigotry  to  restrict  reason  and  progress,  disappeared,  and 


ORA  TfOX. 


211 


hical  foundations  of 


the  horizun  ull  umund  was  iloareJ  to  their  uiiobstructod  expansion  and  free 
vision. 

From  a  whole  po<iple.  tluis  Qisenthnilled  and  impelled  b)-  the  lijrlit  and 
fire  of  univors;d  ir<felliirenee,  sprang  the  Constitution  uf  the  United  States 
of  Anieriei. 

This  constitution,  in  itself  a  sublime  mental  structure  and  edifice,  marks 
a  point  of  culmination  in  the  struggles  and  the  conflicts  of  all  preceding 
time. 

It  registers  a  conclusive  victory  of  the  instinct  of  order,  achieved  and 
recognized.  It  marks  a  point  of  departure  into  the  future,  new  and  fresh 
as  the  continent  which  gives  it  birth.  Condensed  in  size  and  form,  it  is 
comprehensively  complete  in  its  details  and  e.xact  in  its  dchnitious. 

Consolidated  wisdou;  .>ihines  from  it,  as  light  and  lire  from  the  sun  in 
nature.  It  provides  for  minute  municipal  goveriimcnts,  and  comniaiids 
self-denial,  euervn%  c-oncession.  uniformitv,  und  concord. 

As  in  our  holy  ledgion  we  possess  the  Lords  Prayev,  the  divine  to.xt 
from  which  flow  all  other  fonns  of  supplication,  and  back  into  it,  they  are 
agiiin  condensed  ;  so  from  thr-  profound  principles  fixed  in  the  Constitu- 
tion, !;overnments  sound  in  form  ma}'  erect  themselves,  expand  to  diuicn- 
sions  ample  jis  the  Iiuman  family.  They  may  be  dwarfed  or  may  decay, 
but  never  can  finally  perish  or  be  lost. 

Such  is  the  splendid  vision  which  arrests  our  attention  and  fills  full  our 
hearts  with  overpowering  gratitude,  when  we  devote  this  day  to  review 
the  immortal  acts  and  ev.iitod  wisdom  of  the  people,  of  the  statesmen,  and 
of  the  soldiers  of  our  patriarchal  generation. 

Let  us  remember  that  the  fourth  day  of  July,  1 77(3,  was  a  day  of  in- 
tense daring,  of  unparalleled  sternness  and  resolution  in  its  declarations 
and  its  acts. 

By  its  antagonists  it  wa.«  maligned  as  intended  to  unbridle  the  furies 
and  precipitate  the  world  nto  infinite  and  devouring  discord.  Yet  we 
cj'.nnot  doubt,  we  who  inherit  and  enjoy  its  benignant  results  and  look 
out  over  a  world  regencniicd  by  its  oracles,  that  Divine  Providence  suffered 
their  heiirts  to  palpitate  wi:h  His  essence  and  tempered  their  judgments 
with  His  grace. 

The  life  of  a  continental  people,  charged  with  an  imperial  mission,  is 
long.  Unlike  human  life,  a  pigmy  in  force  and  swiftly  rushing  to  the 
grave,  avast  people  ^.rows  even  on,  aggregating  and  re-inv'goratcd  by  each 
generation  of  men  as  it  apwars,  matures,  and  then  departs.  The  life  of  a 
nation  has  al  o  its  extreme  vicissitudes,  its  alternating  periods  of  obscurity 
and  cf  bright  .ss. 

The  second  <»eneration  of  American  statesmen,  >vhcthcr  dazzled  by  the 


212 


M'I'ESInX. 


brilliancy  <if  tlu'ir  fathers,  or  stajrireri'tl  to  coin[ir(']u'iiiI  coiiiitk'tfly  the 
liroComid  ehaiijii's,  the  rapidity,  and  the  imnien.se  volume  and  novelty  of 
their  works;  whether  a  certain  aweof  tiiu  jiast  and  reeoil,  dictated  a  time 
of  lassitude  and  rest :  yet  this  period  is  dimmed  liy  the  departure  of  the 
government  out  of  harmony  with  tlio  Constitution  and  the  exalted  deeluru- 
tions  of  "7<i. 

The  divinity  of  pro<;ivss  seemed  to  sleep :  African  slavery  was  expanded : 
territory  was  dwarfed  l»y  the  loss  of  Orep)n  and  Texas :  all  things  were 
repressi'd  under  thi'  monopoly  of  the  Atlantic  Sea. 

The  grand  pioneer  energies  were  itrliitrarily  curbed  and  emasculated;  a 
meridian  wall  of  Indians  extended  as  a  Hastile  from  the  Hritish  northern 
to  the  Spanish  southern  frontier;  the  land-system  crushed  agricultural 
labor;  immigration  from  Kurope  was  discnuraged  ;  a  bank  dwarfed  and 
destroyed  money ;  immense  deserts,  stony  mountains,  an  iron-bound  sea, 
and  death,  were  declan^d  to  Itjrni  a  fourfold  and  impregnable  barrier  to 
j)rogress  to  the  West. 

A  necessity  to  resume  again  tlu'  chains  of  semi-servitude  and  monarchy 
was  i)roclaimed.  Our  immemorial  continental  mission,  coeijual  wit'  the 
grand  geographical  area  and  structure  between  the  oceans,  was  lost  to 
speech. 

Adhesion  to  rancorous  jiolitical  parties  of  the  North  and  of  the  South 
wa.s  alone  jiermitted.     Tyranny  had  re-entered  among  us. 

What  dismal  years  of  vivil  war ;  what  innumerable  and  heroic  battles ; 
what  slaughter  and  unfatlumiable  griefs;  what  saugtiinary  passions,  were 
seen!  How  nearly  was  the  jirecipice  approached,  whence  tiie  wliole  pyra- 
mid of  our  glories — Unioii,  rndependence,  I/iberty — should  be  precipitated 
and  shattered  in  irreparable  ruin  ! 

It  is  heri',  and  upon  this  day,  that  we  are  admoni.^hed  by  pious  patriotism 
to  reflect  upon  the  consuming  acrimony,  rapine,  and  desolation  of  civil 
war;  what  positive  jiolicy  or  what  lamentable  neglect  has  subjected  our 
country  to  its  dc-^tructive  torch,  and  engendered  anywhere  among  our 
peo])le  a  chronic  and  inplaeable  bitterness. 

From  hence,  to  ponder  boMly.  and  to  .see  if  to  avoid  it  might  have 
been  possible,  and  if  its  r<;currence  may  be  forever  averted. 

As  I  am  now  here  pennitted  upon  this  anniversary  to  .speak  to  tlie 
pioneers,  s'  rounded  by  their  comjuests  freshly  won  from  the  v.ilderness, 
and  advancing  witli  magic  celerity ;  so  twice  before  it  has  been  my  for- 
tune to  be  with  them  on  significant  oc'casions. 

On  the  Fourth  of  July,  ISilJ,  I  was /('(y  ;  on  this  present  site  of  Deu- 
ver :  one  of  a  small,  but  resolute  and  intrepid  camp.  Here  were  Carson, 
Fremont,  Fitzpatrick,  Talbot.     The  American  flag  floatc>d  over  us. 


OIIA  TIllX. 


213 


|ivi'ry  was  cxiiand,,! ; 
<:as  :  all  tliiiij;>s  wito 


Wo  hat!  ivaclu'd  the  wi'stcni  limit  of  tlic  Anu'ricaii  torritory,  which 
tlu'ii  ulosi'd  hori'  in  a  imckot.  fiinued  by  the  suuiiiiit  of  tliu  .Sierra  and  tlio 
current  of  tins  Arkansas  Kiver. 

In  front,  beyond  the  settinj^  jsun,  were  unknown  mountains,  strange 
rivers,  mysterious  lakes,  eonth-uined  hy  the  uniiistrueted  opinion  of  the 
world  and  prosi-rihed  hy  its  laws, — an  oliseiirc  and  a  fi.reiirn  land. 

Heyond  there  was  an  immense,  silent,  and  unfrei|uented  ocean:  on  its 
outward  shore  were  hundreds  of  millions  of  Asiatic  jkoji'c,  secluded  and 
mysterious  euipirus,  barred  from  the  world,  and  only  known  to  ex'st. 

This  summer  season,  a  wagon-road  was  ojiencd,  and  blazed  throujih  and 
tlirough  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Sea.  Our  flair  was  !)a]ptizc(l  in 
the  s]iray  of  the  I'acifie  Ocean.  The  line  of  way  travel  round  the  world 
was  revealed  and  ])roclaimcd. 

The  truth  of  jicoirraiihy  triumphed  over  the  craft  of  jpolitics;  the  mind 
of  the  laboring;  and  industrial  world  awoke,  iialpitatcd  witli  conf|uerinj^ 
fire,  and  struck  for  the  emancijiation  of  labor,  for  its  exaltation  and  its 
power. 

The  cry  <or  Oivjron  and  Texas  arose  from  the  people.  Durinjr  the 
years  of  war  with  Mexico,  what  enthusiasm  animated  the  piom-er  annit's, 
what  unparalleled  marches,  victories,  and  cxplomtions  illustrated  the  anient 
energies  of  our  youiiir  soldiers  !  How  complete  the  preparations  made  by 
tliem  for  the  advanciufr  power  and  forces  of  the  people! 

Our  continental  area  was  doubled ;  the  American  desert  rolled  aside ; 
the  vast  .system  of  the  lonfritudinal  mountains  revealed  in  sjjlendor  and 
benignity  ;  the  prodigious  arena  of  tin;  Pacific  thrown  open,  approjiriated 
to  America,  and  occupied  in  force  and  permanence!  (hM  fur  the  people 
Willi  (h'srot'ci'f'l  (iiiif  siciirctl ! 

To  secure  results  so  pregnant  with  empire,  voluntary  forces  of  occupa- 
tion gathered  to  the  3Ii.<souri  River.  Assembletl,  to  the  number  of  fiv(( 
thousand  on  the  beautiful  jmiirie  where  now  stands  the  city  of  Lawrence, 
on  the  Fourth  of  July,  184!),  T  was  invited  to  address  them. 

Suffer  me  to  repeat  here  now  some  sentiments  then  ^:poken :  '•  The 
region  of  gold  an<l  precious  metals  and  stones  is  net  limited,  but  is  alt- 
solutely  infinite.  It  is  over  the  whole  extent  of  that  primary  and  volcanic 
formation  extentling  from  the  Antarctic  to  the  Arctic  extremities  of 
America,  including  in  its  expanse  the  Andes  of  South  and  of  North 
America,  the  Sierra  Madre  and  the  IMateau. 

"  This  abundance  of  the  material  of  coin,  wrought  and  du'elopcd  by 
sober  American  industry,  is  about  to  be  to  the  liuinan  race  the  supremest 
gifl  of  divine  beneficence. 

"  Has  not  tlie  American  cutton-culture  obliterated  harsh  aristocratic  dia- 


214 


Ari'ESDIX. 


tiuctioiKS  in  dross,  ami  thus  ilcinooriitizeJ  the  costuiue  of  society  over  the 
worltl '.''  Wiiat  I'otloii  lias  iluiu'  I'nr  iMiuality  in  (iivss,  the  same  will  j^ulJ 
effect  for  imlivitlual  eijuality  in  property  and  jiliysieal  mniforts ! 

'•  .Stmly  liow  the  iey  servitmh'  of  KurojHian  I'emlal  times  has  melted  sime 
the  eoiii|Uests  oCCiirtez  and  I'i/.arrn  ojieried  the  snurces  IVdm  which  ]"irt- 
alile  jierscinal  jprtipeity  has  exalted  itself  ahove  lixed  and  immutahle  ylehu 
lands  !"     And  a^ain  : 

"  I'mjuiet  for  thi .  sacred  Union  is  this  present  time,  when  jxilitical 
jMiwer.  alioiit  to  cross  the  Alle^hanies,  si'c-saws  on  their  crests,  conntiiij^ 
the  days  that  j)recede  her  eternal  transit  over  tiiiin  !  It  is  hy  the  rapid 
propagation  of  now  States,  the  immediate  oeeu|iation  of  the  broad  plat- 
form of  the  continent,  the  ajrj^rej^ation  of  the  Pacific  (^cean  and  Asiatic 
connueree,  that  imiuietudt'  will  he  swallowed  uj),  and  the  murmurs  of 
discontent  lost  in  the  onward  sound  of  advancement. 

•'  Discontent,  distanced,  will  die  out.  The  iinmen.se  wants  of  the  Pacific 
will  draw  off,  over  Western  outlets,  the  overteemiu}^  crops  of  tlie  ^lissis- 
sippi  N'alley.  The  estahli.shed  domestic  manufactures  of  clothinjr  and 
metals  will  find,  in  our  great  domestic  extension,  tliat  protection  which 
they  in  vain  seek  to  create  by  uni'qual  legislation,  nocuous  and  impracti- 
cable in  our  present  incomplete  and  unbalanced  geograidiical  form. 

'•  Thus  cahnly  weiglied  and  liberally  appreciated,  does  tliis  Continental 
Railway  minister  to  the  interests,  and  invite  the  advocacy  and  co-opera- 
tion, of  every  section  of  our  territory,  and  every  citizen  c'  our  common 
country !" 

Looking  out  at  that  day  from  this  spot,  the  eye  ranged  round  for  a 
thousand  miles  over  a  silent  wilderness,  unpeopled  and  unsought  fur; 
beyond  were  sluggish  people  and  inert  societies.  To-day,  behold  around 
us  the  magic  creations  of  the  pioneer  energies !  Seventeen  new  States 
and  eight  millions  of  new  people  surround  us ;  planted  over  the  area  of 
that  wilderness. 

What  an  immense  geography  has  been  revealed !  what  infinite  hives 
of  population  and  laboratories  of  industry  been  electrified  and  set  in  mo- 
tion I  The  great  sea  has  rolled  away  its  sombre  veil.  Asia  is  found  and 
has  become  our  neighbor.  Her  swarming  multitudes,  two-thirds  of  the 
population  of  the  world,  and  absorbing  four-fifths  of  the  wealth  and  indus- 
try of  mankind,  assume  motion  and  advance  to  meet  us. 

The  world  has  faced  about,  and  has  found  its  true  front. 

North  America  is  known  to  our  own  peoj)le.  Its  concave  form  and 
homogeneous  structure  are  revealed.  Our  continental  mission  is  set  to  its 
pereiniial  frame,  and  the  perpetuity  of  the  American  Union  planted  sym- 
metrically upon  its  impregnable  foundation. 


*i 


OliA  TIOX. 


215 


(if  society  over  tlii' 
^,  till'  siiim-  will  o(,|j 
I'liiiiliutH ! 
jiifs  hiin  incited  .>.iiice 
I'l's  IVoiii  whicli  |i(ii't. 
Mid  iMiimitalilc  j-lcliu 

[time,  when  jioliticiil 
icir  crests,  cduntiii-' 
Tt  is  liy  the  nipid 
III  of  tile  hroiul  pliit- 
!■  Ocean  and  Asiatic 
lid  tlie  niunnurs  of 

wants  of  tlio  Pacific 
irojKS  of  the  Missis- 
res   of  elotliing  and 
it  protection  which 
•tuous  and  inipracti- 
•aiiliical  form, 
hies  this  Continental 
voeacy  and  co-operu- 
izon  c    our  comniou 

ranp;od  round  for  a 
and  uiisoujilit  for- 
-day,  hehold  around 
venteen  now  States 
ill  over  the  area  of 

what  infinite  hives 
ficd  and  set  in  nio- 
Asia  is  found  and 
i,  two-thirds  of  the 
3  wealtli  and  iiidus- 
i. 

•ont. 

concave  form  and 
uission  is  set  to  its 
'11  ion  planted  sym- 


Loaviu};  beliind  the  dual  political  parties  on  the  selvajro  of  the  Atlantic 
Sea,  we  expand  to  the  universal  powers  and  fraternal  sentiments  of  a  con- 
tinental people. 

^'a^t  j;c();iraphical  and  social  diftcrcnces,  ,strenj:tlienc(l  lij-  rivalry  and 
variety,  are  hh.'nded,  balanced,  and  united  liy  permanent  accord  with  the 
older  of  nature. 

Slavery  is  radically  alioli.shed  and  e.viled  forever  from  the  confinejits  of 
America,  Asia,  and  Kurope.  Universal  citizenship,  education,  and  intelli- 
gence create,  expand,  and  perpetuate  themselves. 

The  emancipated  mind  of  the  world,  reinforced  liy  numbers  and  new 
powers  of  self-;^()vernment,  marches  with  majesty  and  moderation  from 
victory  to  victory. 

Foreign  con(juesfs  on  American  soil  are  at  an  end.  America  beholds 
a  double  human  .sacrifice :  Maximilian  for  the  decadence  of  the  Old  World ; 
Lincoln  for  the  renascence  of  the  New. 

In  the  littleness  of  mortality  we  may  yet  recognize  the  divine  miracle, 
whicli  clo.ses  the  cycle  of  conquest  and  slavery  in  the  world,  that  human- 
ity may  enter  upon  a  new  departure,  illuminated  by  universal  freedom. 

A  new  and  grand  order  in  human  aftairs  erects  it.self  upon  these  immen.«e 
concurrent  disclosures  and  events.  New  powers  ajijiear,  whilst  old  ones 
are  fondoiised  and  made  active. 

Our  stupendous  .system  of  longitudinal  mountains  and  gold-licaring 
sierras  is  a  majestic  power.  Our  broad  plains,  innnense  valleys,  and  grand 
rivers,  all  parallel,  longitudinal,  arranged  in  compact  concord,  and  filling 
full  the  temperate  zone  of  warmth,  are  a  power. 

Our  i.'<land  form  and  intermediate  position  between  the  great  oceans, 
and  between  Western  Europe  am'  Oriental  Asia,  are  sujireme  powers.  Our 
sister  States  and  cities  on  the  Pacific  Ocean  are  a  godlike  power. 

The  American  people,  having  their  common  home  in  the  grand  amphi- 
theatre surrounded  by  the  mountains  and  the  external  seas,  will  reach  the 
highest  moral  standard  to  which  unity  of  language  and  manner,  combined 
with  the  genius  of  lilerty,  intelligence,  and  propitious  climate,  can  elevate 
empires. 

The  moment  is  at  hand  when  the  traffic  and  travel  of  mankind — twelve 
liundred  millions  in  tbe  aggregate — will  condense  itself  to  ferries  on  the 
Northern  seas  and  to  transit  roads. 

These  will  be  hugely  multiplied  in  volume,  and  concentrated  and  devel- 
oped here ;  because  they  have  heretofore  been  dwarfed  to  nothing  by  the 
equatorial  heats  and  the  immense  solitudes  of  the  ocean  circuit  of  the  ghjbe. 

To  acc(jmplish  this  within  a  time  reasonably  rapid,  the  hoarded  wealth 
of  friendly  Asia  will  be  lavLshly  and  generously  bestowed. 


21G 


APPEXDIX. 


We  see  united  with  us  here  to-iiay,  wliiit  Eun.pe  hiis  most  worthy  to  be 
hdiiofLil  iiiid  renienibered  :  the  sons  and  daugliters  ol"  tlie  Emerald  Isle ; 
Teutonic  men  and  women ;  tlie  representatives  of  lier  other  hundred 
States  and  peoples :  they  who  liave  had  the  great  faith  and  energy  to 
leave  lier  ,nd  come  liCre,  to  unite  themselves  to  us,  to  our  country  and  our 
mission. 

Free  Europe  flows  to  us  and  abides  with  uh  as  fresh  waters  gather 
to  the  sea,  whilst  ujonarchy  has  returned  to  her  wrapt  in  the  mournful 
shroud  of  Maximilian. 

It  is  thus  that  the  great  powere  and  forces  of  the  external  world  gravitate 
to  the  3Iissi.ssippi  Basin  and  the  mountains,  with  irresistible  pressure  and 
celerity. 

It  is  proper  that  I  speak  liere  to-day  and  to  this  audience  with  unre- 
served sincerity  and  candor. 

An  exact  and  careful  scrutiny  will  authorize  the  assertion,  without  fear 
to  fail,  that  tvhen  the  approaching  centennial  day  of  187G  shall  come,  the 
American  and  3Iexican  people  will  be  mutually  harmonized  and  fused  iuto 
one  poople. 

Governments,  withdrawn  from  the  political  foci  of  Washington  and 
^lexieo,  will  be  condensed  to  tlie  convenient  and  efjuit;;ble  geographical 
centre  in  the  midst  of  the  rural,  the  continental  people,  among  the 
grand  prairies  and  on  the  rivers  of  Kansas,  remote  from  and  intermediate 
between  the  oceans. 

These  events  art-'  'c.  V/e  are  in  the  midst  of  them.  They  surround  us 
as  we  march.  They  are  the  present  secretions  of  the  aggregate  activities 
and  energies  of  the  people. 

You,  the  pioneei's  of  Colorado,  have  arched  with  this  glorious  State  the 
summit  ridge  and  banner  between  two  hemisplieres.  You  bring  to  a  close 
tlic  unnumbered  ages  ^f  their  isolation  and  their  hostility.  You  liave 
opened  .uid  poss&ss  the  highway  which  alone  connects,  fuses,  ami  harmo- 
nizes them  together.    Of  this  State  you  are  the  first  owners  and  occupants. 

You  have  di.sjjlayed  to  the  vision  and  illustrated  to  mankind  the  sjilen- 
did  ciinciivr  structure  of  our  continent,  and  the  infinite  jjcwers  of  its 
august  dimensions,  its  fertility,  its  salubrious  atmosphere  and  ever-re.splen- 
dent  beauty. 

You  have  discovered  the  profound  want  and  necessity  of  human  society, 
and  your  labor  jirovides  for  its  relief:  (lold — I  mean;  "the  indefinite 
supply  of  sound  money  for  the  jnople,  by  their  own  individual  and  volun- 
tary labor." 

You  occupy  the  front  of  tlu'  pioneer  army  of  the  people;  absolutely 
tlie  leadei's  of  mankind,  heading  the  column  to  the  Orieutal  shores! 


01{A  TIO\. 


217 


idienc'o  witli  unrc- 


The  mysterious  crisis  between  tlie  clashing  continents  and  civilizations 
of  tlie  world,  lu'ld  and  decided,  three  thousand  years  ago,  by  the  three 
hundred  Sjiartans  at  Thernioiiylitf,  now  rests  with  the  geographical  States 
and  peojile  of  Colorado  and  I'tah. 

Geogra}ihical  integrity  is  the  oracle  of  salvation  and  safety.  You  are 
in  danger  of  being  partitioned  by  the  Punic  ambition  of  avaricious  mo- 
nopolies, and  the  covetous  cities  of  the  Atlantic  Sea. 

No  fragment  of  the  peojile  of  the  North  Anii-rican  Continent  can  thus 
suffer  their  geographical  harmonies  to  be  lo.'st  and  perverted. 

The  mining  pioneers  of  the  liocky  Mountains,  in  vice  untaught,  yet 
skilled  wiiere  glory  leads  to  arduous  ent<'rprisi',  are  fit  to  confront  this 
crisis. 

Often  distinguished  by  your  favor,  a  witnes.s  of  your  constant  fidelity 
and  courage,  it  is  my  duty  to  sound  to  you  this  alarm,  to  invoke  and 
summon  you  to  confront  this  danger  with  Spartan,  with  American  will, 
unanimity,  and  victory. 

Our  great  country  has  emerged  from  trials  intt'iisely  exhausting  and 
jieriious.  The  energy  and  devotion  of  the  jieople  liave  nut  faltevi'd  either 
in  defeat  or  victory.  A  cry  of  j<iy  and  admiration  soumls  over  all  the  seas 
and  all  the  continents  and  islands.  The  piust  is  impregnabiy  jireserved — 
future  progress  safe,  brilliant,  and  assured : 


"  Nigllt  waiii'S,  the  va|i(iis  mmul  the  iiic)Ulitiiiii!<  ourliil 
liiiriit  into  iiiurn,  ami  lijrlit  awakes  llii'  wurn!." 

Yielding  our  hearts  to  the  vivid  jialpitations  inspired  by  this  day,  and 
by  the  gathering  glories  of  our  country,  .so  young  and  yet  .so  great,  let  u.« 
])ronounce  to  lier  this  ])arting  salutation  : 

Hail  to  America,  land  of  our  birth  !  Hail  to  her  magnificent,  her  con- 
tinental domain  I  Hail  t(j  her  generous  ]ieoplc!  Hail  to  her  victorious 
soldiers!  Hail  to  her  matrons  and  her  maidens  I  Hail  to  the  sacred  luiion 
of  her  States !  All  hail  to  her,  </.<  kIh'  in!  Hail  to  the  sublime  mission 
which  bears  her  on.  through  peace  and  war,  to  maki;  the  continent  her 
own,  and  to  endure  forever! 


TIIK   END. 


